RE: [HOn3] Homasote
- An old adage says never to glue anything on a layout, there always maybe the
need to move, redo, adjust, or otherwise remove it.
Another sage is to never cover a screw head for the same reasons. That's why
we use cleats on risers and have the screws accessible from below.
In the past I used 1" screws to attach Homasote to 1/2" plywood. Now I am
more apt to use drywall screws. This can be accomplished from the top making
sure you do not bury the screw under the track.
When attaching homasote roadbed to plywood sub roadbed what is the best
method of attachment? Glue, (type) screws, nails or a combination? Thanks,
In my long lifetime I've only removed the Homasote by using a sabre saw
and took the plywood with it. Obviously the plywood would be in the wrong
place and need to be moved also. If you don't glue anything on your
layout, how do you deal with scenicking?
Wouldn't ballasting the roadbed conceal the screws? Assuming that you
do ballast the trackage. I sure do.
My layout is built in bolted together sections that could be taken apart
and relocated if necessary.
- I may be old school, but I use yellow wood glue and drywall screws to
secure homasote to plywood. After the glue is dry, I will remove the screws
if there is going to be track near that area (they are only needed to act
as a clamp for a short time while the glue dries - but if left they may
transfer sound). For areas that will not have track, it is the builders
choice to leave the screws or remove them. If there is a slight indent left
from the screw you can use spackle or plaster to flatten it. But where the
track is, there usually is no need to cover up the hole because the ballast
will fill that area. One important thing to do before laying track, is to
lightly sand the homasote, especially where the screws were to make sure
that it is even. This can be done by hand or with a hand/palm sander (I use
a random orbit sander with a vacuum attached to it - that really minimized
the dust, just be sure to check the vacuum container about every 10-15
minutes for the level of dust).
To secure plywood to spline roadbed, I use yellow wood glue and clamps to
hold it in place until the glue dries, then remove the clamps. Sanding is
still required to ensure that everything is even.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
For myself I have used white Elmers glue with no screws with no apparent problems, My modules are not used as drink holders and are not exposed to condensing humidity for extended periods of time. they are only about 4 years old so they may not have the proven track record others have.
I apply a thin coat or 2 to the homasote or ceiling tile and let it get tacky to get it primed to the point where it is just not soaking in quickly,
I let the glue get tacky before applying a second coat, this does a few things it provides enough glue so it gets absorbed deeper into the homasote which strengthens it's structure and the glue bond and it allow some glue to stay in the final glue joint instead of being sucked into the homasote.
I put a light to med coat over the homasote and the plywood and place on the plywood and press it and then put distributed weight like bags of birdseed, cat food, or cat litter.
I do basically the same thing for cork roadbed but prime both with glue because the cork is even more absorbent.
The homasote website has some recommendations. which include screws, here are the glues.
Glues and Adhesives
Liquid Nails® Sub-Floor Adhesive
Liquid Nails® All Purpose Adhesive
Elmers® Carpenters Glue
--- In HOn3@yahoogroups.com, "Rob" <ngmrr@...> wrote:
> When attaching homasote roadbed to plywood sub roadbed what is the best method of attachment? Glue, (type) screws, nails or a combination? Thanks, Rob><>