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Re: [HOn3] Re: Caboose & Loco video

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  • Laurie McLean
    G Day Jason, I get my motors from Paul Richardson MMR who owns Mudhen Models. Get the decoder also from him plus lots of other items. See -
    Message 1 of 12 , Mar 3, 2011
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      G'Day Jason,

      I get my motors from Paul Richardson MMR who owns Mudhen Models. Get the decoder
      also from him plus lots of other items.

      See -
      http://www.mudhenmodels.com/misc1.shtml

      These are a good motor and draw around 20mA (same as 1 x LED) so they work with
      motor and FL (function lighting) decoders.

      I have been using the TCS FL-4 decoders which have a 200 mA on each function and
      I program the decoder to tell it that the motor is a LED and adjust the light
      output.

      Here's how I do this -

      I use Decoder Pro ( i don't enter CV's as this is too time consuming)

      I set F1 as the motor and also set it to "dimable" in the table on the right of
      the screen.
      On the left of the screen is where a value can be changed and in the "dim value"
      I usually put about 3 or 4 as the value.

      We are telling the program that the LED (motor in this case) is to be dimmed so
      the current it is sending is lower to make the LED dim but in fact we are
      slowing the motor RPM.

      These small gear reduction motors do make a noise due to the metal gearing
      however they are cheap at $15 each from Paul and I mount them on double stick
      foam tape to reduce the motor/gear growl transferring into the body of which it
      is placed to do the animation.

      I have also tried silicone with some success to hold the motor but after 20
      animation creations now it is getting the motor to run slow and controlling it
      by programming the decoder.


      These little motors are just 1 inch long making them ideal for onboard animation
      - I have 4 Blackstone caboose's with brakemen waving working lanterns and they
      are a heap of fun and work with doing operations.


      Regarding the output shaft and the RPM's -

      1. The shaft can have either a wheel or a cam being 3.0mm diameter.
      2. You can double the animation movement by making a "twin cam" which is easily
      made and you can see this in the 2010 HOn3 Annual article.
      A twin cam gives 2 x up and 2 x down movements with a spring loaded rod riding
      the cam.
      3. I make plastic wheels from 10.0mm (3/8" Diameter) rod (use coat hangers too
      and cut them). Drill a 3.0mm hole and push onto the output shaft.
      I drill a 1.0mm hole in the face of the wheel and screw in a 1.4mm round head
      screw. This is the same as a loco driver main rod and pin and from this the
      movement of push and pull can be made.

      The materials I use are -

      1.0mm and 1.5mm brass tube
      0.024" nickle silver wire and 0.017" nickle silver wire
      0.008",0.012",0.025" brass.
      3/8" brass rod and 3/8" plastic rod (cams and wheels)
      I use NWSL wimpy springs for the rod follower on cams.
      NWSL screws

      It is cheap and affordable and fun.

      Sorry this is a bit long but you now should have a good idea of things.

      Thank you for the kind words - hey, I too was green to all this model
      railroading and many taught me along the way so I feel it good to give and
      share.

      Learn by doing and discover the real enjoyment and seeing the rewards of
      scratchbuilding etc.

      Regards,

      Laurie McLean
      Australia



      ________________________________
      From: holry7778 <jasonlreis@...>
      To: HOn3@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Thu, 3 March, 2011 1:47:07 AM
      Subject: [HOn3] Re: Caboose & Loco video

      Laurie,

      Where are you getting your motors & gear downs that handle your animations?

      BTW outstanding work.  It makes me feel so unsophisticated when I'm still
      learning simply how to airbrush and detail.  You're work gives a new level to
      try and achieve someday.  Thanks for sharing.

      Jason R.


      ------------------------------------

      HOn3 list web pages are:
      http://www.railwayeng.com/hon3/
      http://groups.yahoo.com/archive/Hon3/
      http://groups.yahoo.com/files/HOn3/
      Yahoo! Groups Links






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    • holry7778
      Laurie, Try lubing the gears with toothpaste or lapping compound. These are carriers for fine grit abrasives. As the motor & gears run this works off any
      Message 2 of 12 , Mar 4, 2011
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        Laurie,

        Try lubing the gears with toothpaste or lapping compound. These are carriers for fine grit abrasives. As the motor & gears run this works off any machining marks, knicks, etc. and also help wear the gears to mesh better. I usually let my motor/gears run with this stuff for 4-8 hours, checking on it regularly and adding more paste as necessary. Generally this will greatly reduce any noise issue.

        When done just rinse thoroughly with water spin the gearing to ensure all traces of grit have been evacuated. Then add a sparingly small amount of your gear lube of choice and you should be set.

        Jason R.

        --- In HOn3@yahoogroups.com, Laurie McLean <narrowgaugetrain@...> wrote:
        > These small gear reduction motors do make a noise due to the metal gearing
        > however they are cheap at $15 each from Paul and I mount them on double stick
        > foam tape to reduce the motor/gear growl transferring into the body of which it
        > is placed to do the animation.

        > Laurie McLean
        > Australia
      • rstrebendt
        ... I once got an Athearn switcher for $5 because it ran very roughly and noisily. I lubricated it with polishing compound (like rubbing compound but with
        Message 3 of 12 , Mar 7, 2011
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          --- In HOn3@yahoogroups.com, "holry7778" <jasonlreis@...> wrote:
          >
          > Laurie,
          >
          > Try lubing the gears with toothpaste or lapping compound.

          I once got an Athearn switcher for $5 because it ran very roughly and noisily. I "lubricated" it with polishing compound (like rubbing compound but with VERY fine grit) and ran it in for half an hour. Then I cleaned it three times and lubed it with some light grease. It ran smoothly and silently -- one guy accused me of replacing the chassis with a Kato chassis!!

          Rich Strebendt
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