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Re: [ON TOPIC] trucks for Rail Line hon3 flatcar

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  • EandPng@xxx.xxx
    Jerry, I cut off these pins on all of Rail Line s cars. I then drill a hole and use the self taping screw that comes with the Grandt Line trucks that I like to
    Message 1 of 11 , Dec 2, 1999
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      Jerry,

      I cut off these pins on all of Rail Line's cars. I then drill a hole and use
      the self taping screw that comes with the Grandt Line trucks that I like to
      use. Jim Vale described this in an old issue of NG&SLG in an article on
      building the Rail Line boxcar.

      Regards,
      Greg Maxwell
    • Chris C Short
      Grandt Line 3 -7 D&RGW Archbars? On Thu, 02 Dec 1999 21:02:06 CST Jonathan Allen ... ___________________________________________________________________ Why
      Message 2 of 11 , Dec 2, 1999
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        Grandt Line 3'-7" D&RGW Archbars?



        On Thu, 02 Dec 1999 21:02:06 CST "Jonathan Allen"
        <narrowgaugejp@...> writes:
        >From: "Jonathan Allen" <narrowgaugejp@...>
        >
        >Did the kit come with two little ring things?The boxcar does,as well
        >as the
        >projections.The instructions call them ''pegs''(the projections) and
        >say to
        >install trucks and slip the rings over.They didn't say what kind of
        >trucks
        >to use,though.What do the rest of y'all say?
        >
        >
        >>From: Jerry Kemp - HOn3 email <hon3@...>
        >>Reply-To: HOn3@onelist.com
        >>To: hon3@onelist.com
        >>Subject: [HOn3] [ON TOPIC] trucks for Rail Line hon3 flatcar
        >>Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 20:44:11 -0600 (CST)
        >>
        >>From: Jerry Kemp - HOn3 email <hon3@...>
        >>
        >>Hello,
        >>
        >>I picked up a Rail Line HOn3 Idler flat car the other day
        >>and I am looking for a suggestion for trucks for this model.
        >>
        >>For those of you who have not seen the model I will describe
        >>the situation. Where trucks should/will be mounted, there is
        >>a (for lack of a better term) a pin projecting down about
        >>3/16" approx. as I am guestimating it. These "pins" as I have
        >>named them do not appear to be flash.
        >>
        >>After reading over the instruction page a couple of times the
        >>only mention of trucks I see are under assembly instruction 4 which
        >>reads 3'7" wheelbase trucks were used on the prototype. There is
        >>no other mention of trucks on the instruction sheet. I am sure
        >>that if I have missed someone can correct me. :)
        >>
        >>Is there actually a truck that will fit over these pins that I
        >>can purchase??? Should I cut them off and drill/tap a hole for
        >>some regular trucks??? Help!!
        >>
        >>
        >>Thank you,
        >>
        >>Jerry Kemp
        >>
        >>>HOn3 web page is:
        >>http://www.railway-eng.com/hon3/
        >>http://onelist.com/files/HOn3/
        >
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      • John Stutz
        ... I believe that the pins and retaining rings were ment to substitute for the #2 screws that were still standard on HOn3 trucks when the Rail Line dies were
        Message 3 of 11 , Dec 2, 1999
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          > Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 20:44:11 -0600 (CST)
          > From: Jerry Kemp - HOn3 email <hon3@...>
          > Hello,
          >
          > I picked up a Rail Line HOn3 Idler flat car the other day
          > and I am looking for a suggestion for trucks for this model.

          I believe that the pins and retaining rings were ment to substitute
          for the #2 screws that were still standard on HOn3 trucks when the
          Rail Line dies were cut. Kemtron, WestSide and Tomalco all had such
          trucks, with brass strap bolsters punched for a #2 screw. Now most
          manufactures provide a cast truck bolster that takes a #0 or 1.4mm
          screw, and may still need the screw head filed narrower. So you will
          probably need to cut and drill. Most everybody who ever sold an HOn3
          truck started with the correct D&RGW 3'7" archbar prototype, so you
          have lots of choices.

          John Stutz
        • Benders, Frans (GEP)
          Don t you guys mean 3 7 wheel based trucks? Frank
          Message 4 of 11 , Dec 3, 1999
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            Don't you guys mean 3' 7" wheel based trucks?
            Frank

            > ----------
            > From: John Stutz[SMTP:stutz@...]
            > Sent: Thursday, December 02, 1999 10:57 PM
            > To: HOn3@onelist.com
            > Subject: Re: [HOn3] [ON TOPIC] trucks for Rail Line hon3 flatcar
            >
            > From: John Stutz <stutz@...>
            >
            > > Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 20:44:11 -0600 (CST)
            > > From: Jerry Kemp - HOn3 email <hon3@...>
            > > Hello,
            > >
            > > I picked up a Rail Line HOn3 Idler flat car the other day
            > > and I am looking for a suggestion for trucks for this model.
            >
            > I believe that the pins and retaining rings were ment to substitute
            > for the #2 screws that were still standard on HOn3 trucks when the
            > Rail Line dies were cut. Kemtron, WestSide and Tomalco all had such
            > trucks, with brass strap bolsters punched for a #2 screw. Now most
            > manufactures provide a cast truck bolster that takes a #0 or 1.4mm
            > screw, and may still need the screw head filed narrower. So you will
            > probably need to cut and drill. Most everybody who ever sold an HOn3
            > truck started with the correct D&RGW 3'7" archbar prototype, so you
            > have lots of choices.
            >
            > John Stutz
            >
            > > HOn3 web page is:
            > http://www.railway-eng.com/hon3/
            > http://onelist.com/files/HOn3/
            >
          • Jerry Kemp - HOn3 email
            Hello, I just wanted to say thanks for everyone s comments on my kit. I had pretty much come to the conclusion that I needed to cut the pins off and drill
            Message 5 of 11 , Dec 3, 1999
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              Hello,

              I just wanted to say thanks for everyone's comments on my kit.
              I had pretty much come to the conclusion that I needed to cut
              the pins off and drill holes, but I just needed to hear someone
              else say it before I cut them off.

              Thanks again,

              Jerry Kemp
            • AKACOOT@xxx.xxx
              In a message dated 12/2/1999 8:44:38 PM Central Standard Time, hon3@mail.twlight.net writes:
              Message 6 of 11 , Dec 5, 1999
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                In a message dated 12/2/1999 8:44:38 PM Central Standard Time,
                hon3@... writes:

                << There is
                no other mention of trucks on the instruction sheet. >>

                Jerry - The correct trucks for this car are Grandt #5110 (brown) or #5111
                (black if you can't get the brown). The correct D&RGW 3''7" trucks are also
                made by Precision Scale and Rio Grande Models. The easiest way to mount
                these is with a screw like everyone says. Problem with the #0 self-tapping
                screw is that it starts tearing the hole apart when you take it back out -
                like when you're going to paint the car, adjust the trucks for operation or
                replace a coupler after a mishap. I like to cut off the car's pin, drill
                thru #55, tap #0-80 and mount the truck with a round head 0-80 screw. I put
                a little white glue on the screw to hold it in position when I'm done.

                Jim Vail
              • Lugg William H Civ SMC Det 11 /CZGI
                Just out of curiosity, since this is a flat car we re talking about, do you drill through and cover the hole up with a load or drill short of the floor surface
                Message 7 of 11 , Dec 8, 1999
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                  Just out of curiosity, since this is a flat car we're talking about, do you
                  drill through and cover the hole up with a load or drill short of the floor
                  surface and use a bottoming tap?

                  Thanks.
                  --------------------------------------
                  Bill Lugg
                  Systems Engineer,
                  GPS Control Segment
                  Systems Engineering, Integration & Test IPT
                  SMC Det 11/CZGI, Peterson AFB, CO

                  William.Lugg@... <mailto:william.lugg@...>
                  Jone's Law: The man who can smile when things go wrong ... has thought of
                  someone he can blame it on.


                  -----Original Message-----
                  From: AKACOOT@... [SMTP:AKACOOT@...]
                  Sent: Sunday, 05 December, 1999 12:16 PM
                  To: HOn3@onelist.com
                  Subject: Re: [HOn3] [ON TOPIC] trucks for Rail Line
                  hon3 flatcar

                  From: AKACOOT@...

                  In a message dated 12/2/1999 8:44:38 PM Central Standard
                  Time,
                  hon3@... writes:

                  << There is
                  no other mention of trucks on the instruction sheet. >>

                  Jerry - The correct trucks for this car are Grandt #5110
                  (brown) or #5111
                  (black if you can't get the brown). The correct D&RGW 3''7"
                  trucks are also
                  made by Precision Scale and Rio Grande Models. The easiest
                  way to mount
                  these is with a screw like everyone says. Problem with the
                  #0 self-tapping
                  screw is that it starts tearing the hole apart when you take
                  it back out -
                  like when you're going to paint the car, adjust the trucks
                  for operation or
                  replace a coupler after a mishap. I like to cut off the
                  car's pin, drill
                  thru #55, tap #0-80 and mount the truck with a round head
                  0-80 screw. I put
                  a little white glue on the screw to hold it in position when
                  I'm done.

                  Jim Vail
                • AKACOOT@xxx.xxx
                  In a message dated 12/8/1999 2:09:02 PM Central Standard Time, William.Lugg@CISF.AF.MIL writes:
                  Message 8 of 11 , Dec 8, 1999
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                    In a message dated 12/8/1999 2:09:02 PM Central Standard Time,
                    William.Lugg@... writes:

                    << do you
                    drill through and cover the hole up with a load or drill short of the floor
                    surface and use a bottoming tap? >>

                    These Railine flats are "idler flats" converted from 3000 series boxcars.
                    Since they are idler flats as used in the 1950's - 1960's era pipe trains
                    they generally had no loads. I have drilled thru the floor on mine, snipped
                    off the screw and filed it flat to the car deck, and then painted it (you
                    have to paint and weather the whole deck anyway).

                    Jim Vail
                  • AKACOOT@xxx.xxx
                    In a message dated 12/8/1999 9:44:42 PM Central Standard Time, AKACOOT writes:
                    Message 9 of 11 , Dec 8, 1999
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                      In a message dated 12/8/1999 9:44:42 PM Central Standard Time, AKACOOT writes:

                      << These Railine flats are "idler flats" converted from 3000 series boxcars.
                      >>

                      I blew it.

                      The Railine flats model those idler flats that the D&RGW made from 30' stock
                      cars. Trout Creek Engineering has the kits to model the idler flats made
                      from 30' box cars (previously the Tomalco kits). And the new Durango Press
                      has the x-Micro Engineering, x-Clear Creek kits to model the idler flats
                      made from hi-side gons. I personally like these DP cars because they have
                      good weight with their lead sheet enclosed between the 2-piece floor. And
                      you can drill and tap thru the floor bottom and the weight before adding the
                      top deck.

                      Pictures of many of these cars show in my Nov/Dec 91 GAZETTE article.

                      Jim Vail
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