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Re:Wiring a Realistic Diamond Scale Durango Turntable [Virus checked] ['securiQ.Watchdog': checked]

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  • mick_moignard@unipart.co.uk
    Mike I have exactly the setup that you describe, and it s actually quite easy and simple. You don t need split pit rails or a wire to a bridge, First, when
    Message 1 of 2 , Jan 1, 2006
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      Mike
      I have exactly the setup that you describe, and it's actually quite easy
      and simple. You don't need split pit rails or a wire to a bridge,

      First, when you order the PTCIII, include the auto-reverse option or
      whatever they call it now (I had mine about 4 years ago). This provides
      an internal relay in the PTCIII that switches the track power when the
      table is at 90degrees to the lead track. You specify which track is the
      lead track. Then you wire track power to the back of the PTCIII and the
      turntable feeds to another two terminals.

      Secondly, use a continuous pit rail; don't bother with trying to split it.
      It will be much easier to get a good circle if it is one piece. You only
      use this for one track rail. Wire the pivot to one of the turntable feed
      outputs on the PTCIII.

      Then, add a wiper at each end of the bridge on to the pit rail. Wire those
      wipers to one of the turntable rails. Wire the other rail to the pivot
      itself. What I did here was to run the wire down the pivot tube as they
      describe in the instructions, and at the bottom, soldered it to the inside
      of the tube. Now run a wire from the other output track feed from the
      PTCIII to the ttrntable motor or the bracket. It then conducts to the
      table via the gearbox bearings - NYRS told me that was fine to do. For
      added pickup, I also have a phosphor bronze wire attached to one of the
      motor screws which rubs on the exposed motor shaft just below the shaft
      coupling. Obvously if the thing shorts as you run on to the turntable,
      switch one set of wires round on the back of the PTCIII. Oh, and be
      aware that the PTCIII must be powered to run locos on to the turntable, to
      ensure that it has switched the turntable track power correctly.

      I can't praise the PTCII highly enough. It is superb. You will enjoy this
      setup. It's so accurate, and so easy to reprogram if you add or move
      turntable tracks. Superb. I think it was my second best single purchase
      for the railway - after my Digitrax DCC system.

      Good luck

      Mick Moignard



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    • Mike Lehman
      Thanks to everyone for their tips on this. Mick, What you describe sounds like the way to go. Basically, you used the motor bracket to feed power through the
      Message 2 of 2 , Jan 1, 2006
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        Thanks to everyone for their tips on this.

        Mick,
        What you describe sounds like the way to go. Basically, you used the
        motor bracket to feed power through the pivot (a 5/16" steel rod), and
        then use a wiper to take that power to one rail of the TT bridge. The
        other rail feeds from the ring rail. I like retaining two wipers on the
        ring rail and not splitting the ring. This should make for both improved
        conductivity and mechanical integrity. In addition to what is supplied
        by DS, I have some Tomar track wipers that I've heard is a good
        modification.

        I'm hoping that my PTCIII unit is already set-up for auto reversing. The
        instructions I have are less than clear on this, calling it an option,
        as you described. It shows the back of the controller as having the 4
        screws to take in track power and then have power out to the TT. The
        wording in the manual makes it seem as if these connections will be
        present even on a unit that does not have the auto reverse option
        installed. My unit does have the four connections.

        However, the NYRS website refers to auto reversing as now being
        standard. I know that I purchased my unit after yours but it has been a
        couple of years, so I'm not sure if I already have the auto-reverse
        option. It's marked as version 7.7, so maybe I'm lucky and already have
        the auto reverse option. If not, I may have to ship it back to NYRS to
        install it, as it requries opening the case, which has one of those
        "warranty void if broken" seals on it.

        In any case, a call to NYRS should clarify things for me. Thanks for the
        help.
        Mike Lehman
        Urbana, IL

        mick_moignard@... wrote:

        > Mike
        > I have exactly the setup that you describe, and it's actually quite easy
        > and simple. You don't need split pit rails or a wire to a bridge,
        >
        > First, when you order the PTCIII, include the auto-reverse option or
        > whatever they call it now (I had mine about 4 years ago). This provides
        > an internal relay in the PTCIII that switches the track power when the
        > table is at 90degrees to the lead track. You specify which track is the
        > lead track. Then you wire track power to the back of the PTCIII and the
        > turntable feeds to another two terminals.
        >
        > Secondly, use a continuous pit rail; don't bother with trying to split it.
        > It will be much easier to get a good circle if it is one piece. You only
        > use this for one track rail. Wire the pivot to one of the turntable feed
        > outputs on the PTCIII.
        >
        > Then, add a wiper at each end of the bridge on to the pit rail. Wire those
        > wipers to one of the turntable rails. Wire the other rail to the pivot
        > itself. What I did here was to run the wire down the pivot tube as they
        > describe in the instructions, and at the bottom, soldered it to the inside
        > of the tube. Now run a wire from the other output track feed from the
        > PTCIII to the ttrntable motor or the bracket. It then conducts to the
        > table via the gearbox bearings - NYRS told me that was fine to do. For
        > added pickup, I also have a phosphor bronze wire attached to one of the
        > motor screws which rubs on the exposed motor shaft just below the shaft
        > coupling.
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