Re: [HOn3] MDC 2-8-0 COUNTERWEIGHTS
I can't help you with the counter weight question. I think I'd be
tempted to use a reamer and ream the hole, gradually, until the
counterweight fit. Hope that helps. And, yes, this is a very helpful
group. Glad you joined.
> From: "shay432003" <shay432003@...>The following may work:
> The problem I'm having is that the larger (metal) counterweights
> do not slip on the axles easily like the smaller c-class (plastic)do.
You will need a vise with smooth jaws that stay parallel under
pressure. The blocky rectangular sort know as a drill press vise will
do quite well, but a good quality bench vise is equally usable.
Make certain that there is a very slight taper on both the axle ends
and the axle holes in the the back sides of counterweights. This
taper should not be more than about 0.010"(.25mm) long and 0.004"
(.1mm) deep. You just want to remove any burrs or sharp edges, and
assure that the axle can start into the hole with the "D" sections
properly aligned. The steel axle will require filing, while the zinc
counterweights can be tapered with a #11 Xacto or scalpel blade.
Make a cradle that will sit on top of the vise jaws and support the
wheelset level and square to the jaw faces. The axle should be about
one diameter below the top of the jaws, so that the counterweights can
be laid over at 45 degrees without catching the crankpins while
setting the second counterweight. Make sure your cradle is not too
long to prevent pressing the counterweights home, and that it will not
interfere with the counterweights. I would make it from Evergreen
Then start a counterweight onto the axle by hand, assuring that the
"D" sections are properly aligned. Drop it into the cradle and press
the counterweight home. Repeat for the other end, making sure that
you do not catch the crankpin boss on either counterweight.
It may help to use some Locktight stud locking compound, both as a
lubricant while mounting the counterweights and to assure that they
will never come loose.
As I recall, the flats of the axle "D"s are parallel, and the
counterweights have their "D"s with two orientations. Make certain
that one orientation goes on the insulated driver side, and the other
goes on the non-insulated driver side.