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Re: [HOn3] MDC 2-8-0 COUNTERWEIGHTS

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  • duncan harvey
    Alan, I can t help you with the counter weight question. I think I d be tempted to use a reamer and ream the hole, gradually, until the counterweight fit.
    Message 1 of 3 , May 6, 2003
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      Alan,

      I can't help you with the counter weight question. I think I'd be
      tempted to use a reamer and ream the hole, gradually, until the
      counterweight fit. Hope that helps. And, yes, this is a very helpful
      group. Glad you joined.

      Duncan
    • John Stutz
      ... The following may work: You will need a vise with smooth jaws that stay parallel under pressure. The blocky rectangular sort know as a drill press vise
      Message 2 of 3 , May 6, 2003
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        > From: "shay432003" <shay432003@...>

        > The problem I'm having is that the larger (metal) counterweights
        > do not slip on the axles easily like the smaller c-class (plastic)do.

        The following may work:

        You will need a vise with smooth jaws that stay parallel under
        pressure. The blocky rectangular sort know as a drill press vise will
        do quite well, but a good quality bench vise is equally usable.

        Make certain that there is a very slight taper on both the axle ends
        and the axle holes in the the back sides of counterweights. This
        taper should not be more than about 0.010"(.25mm) long and 0.004"
        (.1mm) deep. You just want to remove any burrs or sharp edges, and
        assure that the axle can start into the hole with the "D" sections
        properly aligned. The steel axle will require filing, while the zinc
        counterweights can be tapered with a #11 Xacto or scalpel blade.

        Make a cradle that will sit on top of the vise jaws and support the
        wheelset level and square to the jaw faces. The axle should be about
        one diameter below the top of the jaws, so that the counterweights can
        be laid over at 45 degrees without catching the crankpins while
        setting the second counterweight. Make sure your cradle is not too
        long to prevent pressing the counterweights home, and that it will not
        interfere with the counterweights. I would make it from Evergreen
        styrene.

        Then start a counterweight onto the axle by hand, assuring that the
        "D" sections are properly aligned. Drop it into the cradle and press
        the counterweight home. Repeat for the other end, making sure that
        you do not catch the crankpin boss on either counterweight.

        It may help to use some Locktight stud locking compound, both as a
        lubricant while mounting the counterweights and to assure that they
        will never come loose.

        As I recall, the flats of the axle "D"s are parallel, and the
        counterweights have their "D"s with two orientations. Make certain
        that one orientation goes on the insulated driver side, and the other
        goes on the non-insulated driver side.

        John Stutz
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