Re: [HOn3] Modeling shingle roofs
>Ah, yes.. quite a diffference, I suspect! If you are looking at
>Living in Germany it's easy to find out about German building practices -
>but American? But I agree that looking at books written for architects
>helps a lot in building prototypical structures.
traditional "American"buildings of the common type, practices here
are vastly different than in Europe. The availability of wood lead
to its use as the standard for framing of the light, inexpensive
structures (mining towns, logging camps, newly developing businesses
in small towns)which were the norm. The robust, long lasting
structures of masonry or stone were not seen until an area became
> For the wood one either uses a pair of boards nailed into a V shapeHowdy all,
> of appropriate angle and applied to the ridge over the top of a
> flashing piece (usually copper or zinc). >
I have photos of corrugated metal roofs from the early 1900's using
this same technique.
- On Wed, 7 Aug 2002 10:44:54 -0600 you wrote (Joe Lemmo <jlemmo@...>):
> I tried to replicate this using the 'Builders in Scale' real woodJoe,
> shingles and it looked weird. I think the problem is that the shingles were
> way too thick. A quick check had one sample at 2.5 scale inches thick. If
> I remember correctly my former shake roof was about .5 inches at the
while I've never seen the Builders in Scale shingles, I had the same
situation with the material I'm using. I found that sanding the roof after
the shingles are glued in place helps a lot towards a more prototypical
Thanks for the tip to use boards, that's what I plan to do.
- On Wed, 7 Aug 2002 07:58:45 -1000 you wrote (Boone Morrison <boone@...>):
> >A THIN PIECE OF BROWN PAPER BAG FOLDED IN HALF USUALLY MAKES A NEAT RIDGEBoone,
> >SEAM. I REAL LIFE ROOFERS USE INDIVIDUAL SHINGLE FOLDED IN HALF AND
> >OVERLAPPED TO ACCOMPLISH THIS.
> >DICK SCHWEIGER
> Dick: "Folded in half" only applies to composition shingles,
> definately not wood ones!
> For the wood one either uses a pair of boards nailed into a V shape
> of appropriate angle and applied to the ridge over the top of a
> flashing piece (usually copper or zinc). Another approach is to
> "weave" the singles together along the ridge, beginning at the center
> and working out to the ends, to create this "cap", also laid up over
> a metal flashing which is often unseen.
seems I should have specified that I plan to model wood shingles, so your
tip helps a lot.
would the flashing be wider than the boards or will the boards cover them completely?
Thanks for the tip.
>Martin: As I said in the quote you repeated, "the metal is often
>seems I should have specified that I plan to model wood shingles, so your
>tip helps a lot.
>would the flashing be wider than the boards or will the boards cover
>Thanks for the tip.
hidden"...and that's exactly what I meant...the shingles, or pair of
boards, often covers the metal - extending down the roof below it
enough that it is not seen. For roofs on sheds and such, the nicety
of the metal was dispensed with and just the boards or shingles
used...not near as waterproof!!
If you really want to know how buildings go together (not a bad idea
if you are modeling them!)
hit your library and get hold of Archtectural Graphic Standards - the
older the edition the better.
This was for years the standard refference on "how buildings are
built" and is still in wide use.
Check it out, you will learn a heck of a lot!!
- On Thu, 8 Aug 2002 08:55:31 -1000 you wrote (Boone Morrison <boone@...>):
> If you really want to know how buildings go together (not a bad ideaLiving in Germany it's easy to find out about German building practices -
> if you are modeling them!)
> hit your library and get hold of Archtectural Graphic Standards - the
> older the edition the better.
> This was for years the standard refference on "how buildings are
> built" and is still in wide use.
> Check it out, you will learn a heck of a lot!!
but American? But I agree that looking at books written for architects
helps a lot in building prototypical structures.
> From: Martin Fischer <martin.fischer@...>From previous discussion, you are modeling the wooden version, but it is not
> currently I have a small structure with a shingle roof on the workbench.
> While all shingles are in place now, I have no idea what to put onto the
> ridge. So maybe somebody on this list can tell me how the ridge was done on
> the prototype? Would they use special shingles, metal flashing, boards
> nailed on?
clear if you mean sawn shingles or split shakes. Shingles are typically sawn
to uniform width and thickness, typically about 1/4" x 6" x 12-16", and laid
about 4" exposed to the weather. Current commercial wooden shakes are taper
split giving exposed edges of 1/2-1" thickness, and sometimes more if the
split goes on a curve. Shake widths are random in the range of 4 - 12", and
lengths run 20-24", giving 8" to the weather. In the old growth redwood and
ceder country, loggers sometimes made shakes up to 5' length, but these may
have been for local consumption and not commercial products. Such long shakes
require logs of very fine and even grain.
In 'permanent' construction, both shingles and shakes are lapped with asphalt
impregnated roofing paper of width about equal to the shingle/shake length.
The paper goes up far enough that a double layer of shingles/shakes laps each
layer, to protect the paper from the sun exposure. Use of such paper may be a
modern innovation, to ensure against leakage. Both shingles and shakes
are laid with open joints and nailed only on the centerline, to allow for
expansion as water content changes from fully saturated to completely dry.
With a shingle roof, the ridge line needs some sort of wood or metal cover as
described by others. With a shake roof, standard practice is to lay aside as
stock of average width shakes as the roofing approaches the ridge line. The
last few rolls of roofing paper will lap the ridge line. As the last two rows
of shakes are laid on each side, the tails are cut off even with the ridge,
leaving a final layer of about 12" long shakes. The ridge shakes are then
laid in from the ends, parallel to the ridge, one on each side, at about 6-8"
exposed to weather. The first shake in a pair is placed to slightly lap the
ridge, then the ridge side edge is split off to give a tapered bearing surface
aligned with the opposite slope. The second shake then overlaps this taper,
and is split off to match the slope of the first. The ridge shakes alternate,
the first shake on one side and then the other, to cover the joint in the
previous pair. Near the roof center, the shake tails from one end will cover
those from the other end, building up to a nearly level surface.
At least that is how we did it, on the several roofs my family laid 35 years
ago, and are ony just beginning to replace.