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Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Replacement Chuck for the Mini Mill -- Advice Anyone?

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  • Mike Gehring
    Greg, on that drill chuck..An idea from The Machinist Bedside reader #3. Put the drill chuck in a lathe chuck. Put another drill chuck in the tailstock with
    Message 1 of 12 , Dec 2, 2006
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      Greg, on that drill chuck..An idea  from The Machinist Bedside reader #3. Put the drill  chuck in a lathe chuck. Put another drill chuck in the tailstock with a cylinderical stone bit. Run the tailstock into the opened chuck several times between stopping slightly closing the chuck starting reaming the  bad chuck etc. etc.
           This could be done, but not as precisely with a vise in the mill table and the bad chuck in the mill collet holder if mt 3. This would be one time you'd want a collet instead of an end mill holder, as collets are more precision.  Worth a try?    Good Luck, Mike G.   

      ----- Original Message ----
      From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
      To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Saturday, December 2, 2006 4:46:04 PM
      Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Replacement Chuck for the Mini Mill -- Advice Anyone?

      On Sat, 02 Dec 2006 23:15:54 -0000, you wrote:

      >Hello,
      >
      >I've owned the HF mini mill for some time now, and I've always known
      >the chuck that came with mine is garbage -- runout is so huge it's
      >visible to the eye. Cleaning and re-installing did nothing to
      >correct this problem, so I'm pretty certain it must be the chuck
      >itself. I've been so busy with other unrelated projects I've never
      >taken time out to upgrade my chuck... but that time has come as I
      >finally have some time for a shop project.

      Noticed that. I got an upgrade from LMS, don't remember the number,
      but it was German made, not Chinese (and mine is an MT3)

      >
      >My problem is that I don't know what kind of chuck to get for my
      >Mill... can anyone offer any ideas on type of taper, size, etc. and
      >any technical details I need?

      HF uses the R8 taper. You can go several ways. One is to buy a chuck
      and taper, I'd suggest Enco amongst others (www.use-enco. com). Or you
      can buy an R8 to (chuck taper) adaptor and buy the chuck separately.

      >Maybe even a link to a known quality
      >replacement? I know that LMS offers a replacment, but I talked to
      >them and was told that it was basically an identical copy of what I
      >already have.. and I can't see any sense in spending $$ on the same
      >low quality. I'm not seeking ultra-precision (can't afford it) but
      >something middle-of-the- road with some decent runout numbers would
      >be nice. I know that's pretty vague and I apologize -- you can see
      >I'm not very knowledgable in this area... I'm learning as I go,
      >every step of the way! Any advice would be appreciated. ... Thanks
      >Folks!

      Best I can do for the moment. Exact replacement can be a crap shoot.
      Have you tried taking off the chuck and putting it back on? That
      might change things if it's badly seated....

      Harvey

      >
      >Greg
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >




      Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know. Ask your question on Yahoo! Answers.
    • Rick Kruger
      I had a similar experience with the chuck that came with the minimill having really bad runout. In my case it was beyond repair. The overall quality of the
      Message 2 of 12 , Dec 2, 2006
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        I had a similar experience with the chuck that came with the minimill
        having really bad runout. In my case it was beyond repair. The
        overall quality of the stock chucks just don't merit trying to
        salvage them, in my opinion. I recommend getting a Jacobs
        chuck. Not cheap, but also not top end. Likely, you'll have to get
        new arbor to match the new chuck as I found the taper on the stock
        arbor to not match the taper of the Jacobs chuck.

        Rick

        At 08:04 PM 12/2/2006, you wrote:
        >Greg, on that drill chuck..An idea from The Machinist Bedside
        >reader #3. Put the drill chuck in a lathe chuck. Put another drill
        >chuck in the tailstock with a cylinderical stone bit. Run the
        >tailstock into the opened chuck several times between stopping
        >slightly closing the chuck starting reaming the bad chuck etc. etc.
        > This could be done, but not as precisely with a vise in the
        > mill table and the bad chuck in the mill collet holder if mt 3.
        > This would be one time you'd want a collet instead of an end mill
        > holder, as collets are more precision. Worth a try? Good Luck, Mike G.
        >
        >----- Original Message ----
        >From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
        >To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
        >Sent: Saturday, December 2, 2006 4:46:04 PM
        >Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Replacement Chuck for the Mini Mill --
        >Advice Anyone?
        >
        >On Sat, 02 Dec 2006 23:15:54 -0000, you wrote:
        >
        > >Hello,
        > >
        > >I've owned the HF mini mill for some time now, and I've always known
        > >the chuck that came with mine is garbage -- runout is so huge it's
        > >visible to the eye. Cleaning and re-installing did nothing to
        > >correct this problem, so I'm pretty certain it must be the chuck
        > >itself. I've been so busy with other unrelated projects I've never
        > >taken time out to upgrade my chuck... but that time has come as I
        > >finally have some time for a shop project.
        >
        >Noticed that. I got an upgrade from LMS, don't remember the number,
        >but it was German made, not Chinese (and mine is an MT3)
        >
        > >
        > >My problem is that I don't know what kind of chuck to get for my
        > >Mill... can anyone offer any ideas on type of taper, size, etc. and
        > >any technical details I need?
        >
        >HF uses the R8 taper. You can go several ways. One is to buy a chuck
        >and taper, I'd suggest Enco amongst others (www.use-enco. com). Or you
        >can buy an R8 to (chuck taper) adaptor and buy the chuck separately.
        >
        > >Maybe even a link to a known quality
        > >replacement? I know that LMS offers a replacment, but I talked to
        > >them and was told that it was basically an identical copy of what I
        > >already have.. and I can't see any sense in spending $$ on the same
        > >low quality. I'm not seeking ultra-precision (can't afford it) but
        > >something middle-of-the- road with some decent runout numbers would
        > >be nice. I know that's pretty vague and I apologize -- you can see
        > >I'm not very knowledgable in this area... I'm learning as I go,
        > >every step of the way! Any advice would be appreciated. ... Thanks
        > >Folks!
        >
        >Best I can do for the moment. Exact replacement can be a crap shoot.
        >Have you tried taking off the chuck and putting it back on? That
        >might change things if it's badly seated....
        >
        >Harvey
        >
        > >
        > >Greg
      • Harvey White
        ... I replaced mine for much the same reason. Fortunately, LMS had one, but I was dealing with MT3 and not R8. Harvey
        Message 3 of 12 , Dec 2, 2006
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          On Sun, 03 Dec 2006 01:53:43 -0000, you wrote:

          >Thanks Harvey! That's the kind of info I was looking for. I'm
          >going to consult my enco catalog and see what they have... thanks
          >much! (Also, to answer your question.... no, taking off the chuck
          >and putting it back on did not solve this issue.. it's pretty much
          >why I think my chuck must be a lemon, even by imported standards.)

          I replaced mine for much the same reason. Fortunately, LMS had one,
          but I was dealing with MT3 and not R8.

          Harvey

          >
          >Thanks again, and have a great weekend!
          >
          >Greg
          >
          >--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Harvey White <madyn@...>
          >wrote:
          >>
          >> On Sat, 02 Dec 2006 23:15:54 -0000, you wrote:
          >>
          >> >Hello,
          >> >
          >> >I've owned the HF mini mill for some time now, and I've always
          >known
          >> >the chuck that came with mine is garbage -- runout is so huge
          >it's
          >> >visible to the eye. Cleaning and re-installing did nothing to
          >> >correct this problem, so I'm pretty certain it must be the chuck
          >> >itself. I've been so busy with other unrelated projects I've
          >never
          >> >taken time out to upgrade my chuck... but that time has come as I
          >> >finally have some time for a shop project.
          >>
          >> Noticed that. I got an upgrade from LMS, don't remember the
          >number,
          >> but it was German made, not Chinese (and mine is an MT3)
          >>
          >> >
          >> >My problem is that I don't know what kind of chuck to get for my
          >> >Mill... can anyone offer any ideas on type of taper, size, etc.
          >and
          >> >any technical details I need?
          >>
          >> HF uses the R8 taper. You can go several ways. One is to buy a
          >chuck
          >> and taper, I'd suggest Enco amongst others (www.use-enco.com). Or
          >you
          >> can buy an R8 to (chuck taper) adaptor and buy the chuck
          >separately.
          >>
          >> >Maybe even a link to a known quality
          >> >replacement? I know that LMS offers a replacment, but I talked
          >to
          >> >them and was told that it was basically an identical copy of what
          >I
          >> >already have.. and I can't see any sense in spending $$ on the
          >same
          >> >low quality. I'm not seeking ultra-precision (can't afford it)
          >but
          >> >something middle-of-the-road with some decent runout numbers
          >would
          >> >be nice. I know that's pretty vague and I apologize -- you can
          >see
          >> >I'm not very knowledgable in this area... I'm learning as I go,
          >> >every step of the way! Any advice would be appreciated....
          >Thanks
          >> >Folks!
          >>
          >> Best I can do for the moment. Exact replacement can be a crap
          >shoot.
          >> Have you tried taking off the chuck and putting it back on? That
          >> might change things if it's badly seated....
          >>
          >> Harvey
          >>
          >>
          >> >
          >> >Greg
          >> >
          >> >
          >> >
          >> >
          >> >
          >> >
          >> >Yahoo! Groups Links
          >> >
          >> >
          >> >
          >>
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
        • radish1us
          ... Go for the Jacobs chuck, as Rick has just said, look for one that is middle of the road in price. El-cheapo is what you already have and you definately DO
          Message 4 of 12 , Dec 2, 2006
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            --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Rick Kruger <krugerr@...> wrote:
            >
            > I had a similar experience with the chuck that came with the minimill
            > having really bad runout. In my case it was beyond repair. The
            > overall quality of the stock chucks just don't merit trying to
            > salvage them, in my opinion. I recommend getting a Jacobs
            > chuck. Not cheap, but also not top end. Likely, you'll have to get
            > new arbor to match the new chuck as I found the taper on the stock
            > arbor to not match the taper of the Jacobs chuck.
            >
            > Rick
            >
            Go for the Jacobs chuck, as Rick has just said, look for one that is
            middle of the road in price. El-cheapo is what you already have and
            you definately DO NOT need the ultimate precision series chucks, as
            that's just overkill. The choice of a keyed or key-less chuck is yours
            to make, get the arbour to suit your machine as well and you'll never
            worry about the chuck again.

            regards radish
          • Robert E. Hawley
            I have found that the Rohm chuck that comes on sale regularly at Enco, Penn Tool, Wholesale Tool and the rest is a pretty good chuck for the price. On sale
            Message 5 of 12 , Dec 2, 2006
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              I have found that the Rohm chuck that comes on  sale regularly at Enco, Penn Tool, Wholesale Tool and the rest
              is a pretty good chuck for the price.  On sale it ranges from 19.00 up to 50.00$.  I have two of them
              and use them regularly on my lathe and mill.  Not deadon accuracy by any means but a good middle of the
              road chuck. Bob Hawley
              ----- Original Message -----
              Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 8:35 PM
              Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Replacement Chuck for the Mini Mill -- Advice Anyone?

              On Sun, 03 Dec 2006 01:53:43 -0000, you wrote:

              >Thanks Harvey! That's the kind of info I was looking for. I'm
              >going to consult my enco catalog and see what they have... thanks
              >much! (Also, to answer your question.... no, taking off the chuck
              >and putting it back on did not solve this issue.. it's pretty much
              >why I think my chuck must be a lemon, even by imported standards.)

              I replaced mine for much the same reason. Fortunately, LMS had one,
              but I was dealing with MT3 and not R8.

              Harvey

              >
              >Thanks again, and have a great weekend!
              >
              >Greg
              >
              >--- In GrizHFMinimill@ yahoogroups. com, Harvey White <madyn@...>
              >wrote:
              >>
              >> On Sat, 02 Dec 2006 23:15:54 -0000, you wrote:
              >>
              >> >Hello,
              >> >
              >> >I've owned the HF mini mill for some time now, and I've always
              >known
              >> >the chuck that came with mine is garbage -- runout is so huge
              >it's
              >> >visible to the eye. Cleaning and re-installing did nothing to
              >> >correct this problem, so I'm pretty certain it must be the chuck
              >> >itself. I've been so busy with other unrelated projects I've
              >never
              >> >taken time out to upgrade my chuck... but that time has come as I
              >> >finally have some time for a shop project.
              >>
              >> Noticed that. I got an upgrade from LMS, don't remember the
              >number,
              >> but it was German made, not Chinese (and mine is an MT3)
              >>
              >> >
              >> >My problem is that I don't know what kind of chuck to get for my
              >> >Mill... can anyone offer any ideas on type of taper, size, etc.
              >and
              >> >any technical details I need?
              >>
              >> HF uses the R8 taper. You can go several ways. One is to buy a
              >chuck
              >> and taper, I'd suggest Enco amongst others (www.use-enco. com). Or
              >you
              >> can buy an R8 to (chuck taper) adaptor and buy the chuck
              >separately.
              >>
              >> >Maybe even a link to a known quality
              >> >replacement? I know that LMS offers a replacment, but I talked
              >to
              >> >them and was told that it was basically an identical copy of what
              >I
              >> >already have.. and I can't see any sense in spending $$ on the
              >same
              >> >low quality. I'm not seeking ultra-precision (can't afford it)
              >but
              >> >something middle-of-the- road with some decent runout numbers
              >would
              >> >be nice. I know that's pretty vague and I apologize -- you can
              >see
              >> >I'm not very knowledgable in this area... I'm learning as I go,
              >> >every step of the way! Any advice would be appreciated. ...
              >Thanks
              >> >Folks!
              >>
              >> Best I can do for the moment. Exact replacement can be a crap
              >shoot.
              >> Have you tried taking off the chuck and putting it back on? That
              >> might change things if it's badly seated....
              >>
              >> Harvey
              >>
              >>
              >> >
              >> >Greg
              >> >
              >> >
              >> >
              >> >
              >> >
              >> >
              >> >Yahoo! Groups Links
              >> >
              >> >
              >> >
              >>
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >Yahoo! Groups Links
              >
              >
              >

            • pureskeptic
              Thanks very much for all the replies Mike, Harvey and everyone else... I really appreciate the advice! I think I found what I was looking for right on Ebay,
              Message 6 of 12 , Dec 4, 2006
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                Thanks very much for all the replies Mike, Harvey and everyone
                else... I really appreciate the advice! I think I found what I was
                looking for right on Ebay, and at a price low enough to take a
                gamble... it looks pretty solid... see what you think... (hopefully
                this link will work once I send this...)

                http://cgi.ebay.com/1-2-KEYLESS-DRILL-CHUCK-STRAIGHT-MT-R8-SHANK-
                ATLAS_W0QQitemZ330056535336QQihZ014QQcategoryZ25292QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewIt
                em

                It says " .004" runout guaranteed" and that sounds respectable
                enough and anyway it is LIGHT YEARS ahead of what I'm dealing with
                now... so I may place my order today. Can hardly wait to get
                something acceptable for my Mini Mill!

                -- Thanks to all for the great tips!

                --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Mike Gehring <hohum112@...>
                wrote:
                >
                > Greg, on that drill chuck..An idea from The Machinist Bedside
                reader #3. Put the drill chuck in a lathe chuck. Put another drill
                chuck in the tailstock with a cylinderical stone bit. Run the
                tailstock into the opened chuck several times between stopping
                slightly closing the chuck starting reaming the bad chuck etc. etc.
                > This could be done, but not as precisely with a vise in the
                mill table and the bad chuck in the mill collet holder if mt 3. This
                would be one time you'd want a collet instead of an end mill holder,
                as collets are more precision. Worth a try? Good Luck, Mike
                G.
                >
              • pureskeptic
                Sorry Folks, the link I posted obviously doesn t work... not sure why. If you want to see it, looks like you ll have to paste it into your browser. -- Thanks
                Message 7 of 12 , Dec 4, 2006
                • 0 Attachment
                  Sorry Folks, the link I posted obviously doesn't work... not sure
                  why. If you want to see it, looks like you'll have to paste it into
                  your browser.

                  -- Thanks Again, Greg

                  --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "pureskeptic" <gregnold@...>
                  wrote:
                  >
                  > Thanks very much for all the replies Mike, Harvey and everyone
                  > else... I really appreciate the advice! I think I found what I
                  was
                  > looking for right on Ebay, and at a price low enough to take a
                  > gamble... it looks pretty solid... see what you think...
                  (hopefully
                  > this link will work once I send this...)
                  >
                  > http://cgi.ebay.com/1-2-KEYLESS-DRILL-CHUCK-STRAIGHT-MT-R8-SHANK-
                  >
                  ATLAS_W0QQitemZ330056535336QQihZ014QQcategoryZ25292QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewIt
                  > em
                  >
                  > It says " .004" runout guaranteed" and that sounds respectable
                  > enough and anyway it is LIGHT YEARS ahead of what I'm dealing with
                  > now... so I may place my order today. Can hardly wait to get
                  > something acceptable for my Mini Mill!
                  >
                  > -- Thanks to all for the great tips!
                  >
                  > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Mike Gehring <hohum112@>
                  > wrote:
                  > >
                  > > Greg, on that drill chuck..An idea from The Machinist Bedside
                  > reader #3. Put the drill chuck in a lathe chuck. Put another
                  drill
                  > chuck in the tailstock with a cylinderical stone bit. Run the
                  > tailstock into the opened chuck several times between stopping
                  > slightly closing the chuck starting reaming the bad chuck etc.
                  etc.
                  > > This could be done, but not as precisely with a vise in the
                  > mill table and the bad chuck in the mill collet holder if mt 3.
                  This
                  > would be one time you'd want a collet instead of an end mill
                  holder,
                  > as collets are more precision. Worth a try? Good Luck, Mike
                  > G.
                  > >
                  >
                • Robert E. Hawley
                  The only thing I see that may cause a problem is the length of the chuck. But that would only cause a problem when drilling larger items. Bob ... From:
                  Message 8 of 12 , Dec 4, 2006
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                    The only thing I see that may cause a problem is the length of the chuck.  But that would only cause
                    a problem when drilling larger items. Bob
                    ----- Original Message -----
                    Sent: Monday, December 04, 2006 4:44 AM
                    Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Replacement Chuck for the Mini Mill -- Advice Anyone?

                    Sorry Folks, the link I posted obviously doesn't work... not sure
                    why. If you want to see it, looks like you'll have to paste it into
                    your browser.

                    -- Thanks Again, Greg

                    --- In GrizHFMinimill@ yahoogroups. com, "pureskeptic" <gregnold@.. .>
                    wrote:
                    >
                    > Thanks very much for all the replies Mike, Harvey and everyone
                    > else... I really appreciate the advice! I think I found what I
                    was
                    > looking for right on Ebay, and at a price low enough to take a
                    > gamble... it looks pretty solid... see what you think...
                    (hopefully
                    > this link will work once I send this...)
                    >
                    > http://cgi.ebay. com/1-2-KEYLESS- DRILL-CHUCK- STRAIGHT- MT-R8-SHANK-
                    >
                    ATLAS_W0QQitemZ3300 56535336QQihZ014 QQcategoryZ25292 QQrdZ1QQcmdZView It
                    > em
                    >
                    > It says " .004" runout guaranteed" and that sounds respectable
                    > enough and anyway it is LIGHT YEARS ahead of what I'm dealing with
                    > now... so I may place my order today. Can hardly wait to get
                    > something acceptable for my Mini Mill!
                    >
                    > -- Thanks to all for the great tips!
                    >
                    > --- In GrizHFMinimill@ yahoogroups. com, Mike Gehring <hohum112@>
                    > wrote:
                    > >
                    > > Greg, on that drill chuck..An idea from The Machinist Bedside
                    > reader #3. Put the drill chuck in a lathe chuck. Put another
                    drill
                    > chuck in the tailstock with a cylinderical stone bit. Run the
                    > tailstock into the opened chuck several times between stopping
                    > slightly closing the chuck starting reaming the bad chuck etc.
                    etc.
                    > > This could be done, but not as precisely with a vise in the
                    > mill table and the bad chuck in the mill collet holder if mt 3.
                    This
                    > would be one time you'd want a collet instead of an end mill
                    holder,
                    > as collets are more precision. Worth a try? Good Luck, Mike
                    > G.
                    > >
                    >

                  • Don Crawford
                    I have purchased three Albrecht German made chucks on ebay for bargan prices. One I replaced the jaws and ball bearings, the other two were good as is. These
                    Message 9 of 12 , Dec 10, 2006
                    • 0 Attachment
                      I have purchased three Albrecht German made chucks on ebay for bargan
                      prices. One I replaced the jaws and ball bearings, the other two were
                      good as is.
                      These chucks are about as good as they get, but you have to keep your
                      eye out for them.
                      Don


                      --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "pureskeptic" <gregnold@...>
                      wrote:
                      >
                      > Sorry Folks, the link I posted obviously doesn't work... not sure
                      > why. If you want to see it, looks like you'll have to paste it
                      into
                      > your browser.
                      >
                      > -- Thanks Again, Greg
                      >
                      > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "pureskeptic" <gregnold@>
                      > wrote:
                      > >
                      > > Thanks very much for all the replies Mike, Harvey and everyone
                      > > else... I really appreciate the advice! I think I found what I
                      > was
                      > > looking for right on Ebay, and at a price low enough to take a
                      > > gamble... it looks pretty solid... see what you think...
                      > (hopefully
                      > > this link will work once I send this...)
                      > >
                      > > http://cgi.ebay.com/1-2-KEYLESS-DRILL-CHUCK-STRAIGHT-MT-R8-SHANK-
                      > >
                      >
                      ATLAS_W0QQitemZ330056535336QQihZ014QQcategoryZ25292QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewIt
                      > > em
                      > >
                      > > It says " .004" runout guaranteed" and that sounds respectable
                      > > enough and anyway it is LIGHT YEARS ahead of what I'm dealing
                      with
                      > > now... so I may place my order today. Can hardly wait to get
                      > > something acceptable for my Mini Mill!
                      > >
                      > > -- Thanks to all for the great tips!
                      > >
                      > > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Mike Gehring <hohum112@>
                      > > wrote:
                      > > >
                      > > > Greg, on that drill chuck..An idea from The Machinist Bedside
                      > > reader #3. Put the drill chuck in a lathe chuck. Put another
                      > drill
                      > > chuck in the tailstock with a cylinderical stone bit. Run the
                      > > tailstock into the opened chuck several times between stopping
                      > > slightly closing the chuck starting reaming the bad chuck etc.
                      > etc.
                      > > > This could be done, but not as precisely with a vise in
                      the
                      > > mill table and the bad chuck in the mill collet holder if mt 3.
                      > This
                      > > would be one time you'd want a collet instead of an end mill
                      > holder,
                      > > as collets are more precision. Worth a try? Good Luck, Mike
                      > > G.
                      > > >
                      > >
                      >
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