Locking z axis changes tram and no more rust!
- I trammed the mini mill using an indicol type holder on the spindle
and an indicator on the top surface of the table. I did not lock
the x axis, but did the y axis. I did not lock the z axis. It was
dead on from the right and left sides, and about .004 higher in the
front. I've read everything I could find about shimming, filing,
and bracing, and haven't yet decided which ones to do.
I did not lock the z axis like I probably should have, but since
that will be the case when milling, I locked it and checked the
table again. I watched the indicator go out by about .011". The
left side was now higher by that much. The front to back was still
I tightened the z axis gib until it was snug and locked down the
nuts and then the locking lever. It was now only about .008" from
left to right and still about .004" higher in the front.
I can straighten the column to zero readings right and left with the
z axis locked, but won't that mean that when the z axis isn't locked
that I will be tilted the same amount when I try to drill? That
seems like a long ways out of whack. Is there something major I am
I am still waiting for my squares so I can do the suggestions I
found in other posts to check the column/spindle box trueness.
Also, what does everyone use to keep their machines and vises from
rusting? I live in Houston now and the humidity is always about 70%.
- Hello Rob:
I use CorrosionX ( http://www.corrosionx.com/index.html )on all my
machined surfaces and steel tools in my basement workshop. I also run
a small dehumidifer year round.
> Also, what does everyone use to keep their machines and vises from
> rusting? I live in Houston now and the humidity is always about
- I've also heard people say to use paste wax on everything.
--- "jrollett" <jrollett@h...> wrote:
> Hello Rob:
> I use CorrosionX ( http://www.corrosionx.com/index.html )on all my
> machined surfaces and steel tools in my basement workshop. I also run
> a small dehumidifer year round.
> > Also, what does everyone use to keep their machines and vises from
> > rusting? I live in Houston now and the humidity is always about
- I have been using military surplus CLP on all my firearms and tools for over
15 years to
If you stop and think about it the black oxide finish of tools and bluing
of firearms is the same finish it is just that the steel of the firearms is
polished more before the finish is applied. The bolts on a lot of my rifles
are in the white(unfinished) steel just like the bed and tool post of my
lathe. Break Free CLP is the same as the military version.