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Locking z axis changes tram and no more rust!

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  • Rob
    I trammed the mini mill using an indicol type holder on the spindle and an indicator on the top surface of the table. I did not lock the x axis, but did the y
    Message 1 of 4 , Jul 28, 2005
      I trammed the mini mill using an indicol type holder on the spindle
      and an indicator on the top surface of the table. I did not lock
      the x axis, but did the y axis. I did not lock the z axis. It was
      dead on from the right and left sides, and about .004 higher in the
      front. I've read everything I could find about shimming, filing,
      and bracing, and haven't yet decided which ones to do.

      I did not lock the z axis like I probably should have, but since
      that will be the case when milling, I locked it and checked the
      table again. I watched the indicator go out by about .011". The
      left side was now higher by that much. The front to back was still
      about .004".

      I tightened the z axis gib until it was snug and locked down the
      nuts and then the locking lever. It was now only about .008" from
      left to right and still about .004" higher in the front.

      I can straighten the column to zero readings right and left with the
      z axis locked, but won't that mean that when the z axis isn't locked
      that I will be tilted the same amount when I try to drill? That
      seems like a long ways out of whack. Is there something major I am
      forgetting?

      I am still waiting for my squares so I can do the suggestions I
      found in other posts to check the column/spindle box trueness.

      Also, what does everyone use to keep their machines and vises from
      rusting? I live in Houston now and the humidity is always about 70%.
    • jrollett
      Hello Rob: I use CorrosionX ( http://www.corrosionx.com/index.html )on all my machined surfaces and steel tools in my basement workshop. I also run a small
      Message 2 of 4 , Jul 29, 2005
        Hello Rob:

        I use CorrosionX ( http://www.corrosionx.com/index.html )on all my
        machined surfaces and steel tools in my basement workshop. I also run
        a small dehumidifer year round.

        Jerry

        >
        > Also, what does everyone use to keep their machines and vises from
        > rusting? I live in Houston now and the humidity is always about
        70%.
      • Dave J
        I ve also heard people say to use paste wax on everything.
        Message 3 of 4 , Jul 30, 2005
          I've also heard people say to use paste wax on everything.

          --- "jrollett" <jrollett@h...> wrote:
          > Hello Rob:
          >
          > I use CorrosionX ( http://www.corrosionx.com/index.html )on all my
          > machined surfaces and steel tools in my basement workshop. I also run
          > a small dehumidifer year round.
          >
          > Jerry
          >
          > >
          > > Also, what does everyone use to keep their machines and vises from
          > > rusting? I live in Houston now and the humidity is always about
          > 70%.
        • J. A. Freeman
          I have been using military surplus CLP on all my firearms and tools for over 15 years to Clean Lubricate Protect If you stop and think about it the black oxide
          Message 4 of 4 , Jul 30, 2005
            I have been using military surplus CLP on all my firearms and tools for over
            15 years to
            Clean
            Lubricate
            Protect
            If you stop and think about it the black oxide finish of tools and bluing
            of firearms is the same finish it is just that the steel of the firearms is
            polished more before the finish is applied. The bolts on a lot of my rifles
            are in the white(unfinished) steel just like the bed and tool post of my
            lathe. Break Free CLP is the same as the military version.

            http://www.break-free.com/

            http://www.madogre.com/Interviews/breakfree.htm

            http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
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