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Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Sorry, another dumb question RE: draw bar

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  • Chris Baugher
    ... It does come with a drawbar (of sorts) and I m pretty sure it s 7/16-20. I say of sorts because it s kinda cheesy. It has a nut at the top end instead
    Message 1 of 8 , Jun 2, 2005
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      On Sat, 28 May 2005, William Meincer wrote:

      > http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?
      > PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=948312&PMAKA=231-4606
      >
      > It doesn't say but other Enco R8 collets use a 7/16-20 drawbar. Does
      > a draw bar come with the Harbor Freight mill and if so what size is it
      > (I can't seem to find this info anywhere)?

      It does come with a drawbar (of sorts) and I'm pretty sure it's 7/16-20.
      I say "of sorts" because it's kinda cheesy. It has a nut at the top end
      instead of a bolt head. It works fine, it's just kinda lame.
      Littlemachineshop.com makes a better one:

      http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1638


      C|
    • Grady
      If that mill takes R8 collets, then yes it has that thread. My Homier was that way, and the first thing I made on lathe was a new drawbar for the mini mill.
      Message 2 of 8 , Jun 2, 2005
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        If that mill takes R8 collets, then yes it has that thread. My Homier was that way, and the first thing I made on lathe was a new drawbar for the mini mill. One piece is definitely better and easier than a stud, nut and washer.
        ----- Original Message -----
        Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 10:31 AM
        Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Sorry, another dumb question RE: draw bar

        On Sat, 28 May 2005, William Meincer wrote:

        > http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?
        > PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=948312&PMAKA=231-4606
        >
        > It doesn't say but other Enco R8 collets use a 7/16-20 drawbar.  Does
        > a draw bar come with the Harbor Freight mill and if so what size is it
        > (I can't seem to find this info anywhere)?

        It does come with a drawbar (of sorts) and I'm pretty sure it's 7/16-20.
        I say "of sorts" because it's kinda cheesy.  It has a nut at the top end
        instead of a bolt head.  It works fine, it's just kinda lame.
        Littlemachineshop.com makes a better one:

        http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1638


        C|
      • lecodtl
        I just put a second nut above the first nut on the stud and tightened the two together until the flats matched. Poof! A one-piece drawbar. Dean ... Homier
        Message 3 of 8 , Jun 2, 2005
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          I just put a second nut above the first nut on the stud and tightened
          the two together until the flats matched. Poof! A one-piece drawbar.

          Dean

          --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Grady" <grady3@c...> wrote:
          > If that mill takes R8 collets, then yes it has that thread. My
          Homier
          was that way, and the first thing I made on lathe was a new drawbar
          for
          the mini mill. One piece is definitely better and easier than a stud,
          nut and washer.
          .
        • zmfgf@netscape.net
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          Message 4 of 8 , Jun 3, 2005
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            "Grady" <grady3@...> wrote:

            >If that mill takes R8 collets, then yes it has that thread. My Homier was that way, and the first thing I made on lathe was a new drawbar for the mini mill. One piece is definitely better and easier than a stud, nut and washer.
            > ----- Original Message -----
            > From: Chris Baugher
            > To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
            > Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 10:31 AM
            > Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Sorry, another dumb question RE: draw bar
            >
            >
            > On Sat, 28 May 2005, William Meincer wrote:
            >
            > > http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?
            > > PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=948312&PMAKA=231-4606
            > >
            > > It doesn't say but other Enco R8 collets use a 7/16-20 drawbar. Does
            > > a draw bar come with the Harbor Freight mill and if so what size is it
            > > (I can't seem to find this info anywhere)?
            >
            > It does come with a drawbar (of sorts) and I'm pretty sure it's 7/16-20.
            > I say "of sorts" because it's kinda cheesy. It has a nut at the top end
            > instead of a bolt head. It works fine, it's just kinda lame.
            > Littlemachineshop.com makes a better one:
            >
            > http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1638
            >
            >
            > C|
            >
            >
            >------------------------------------------------------------------------------
            > Yahoo! Groups Links
            >
            > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
            > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GrizHFMinimill/
            >
            > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
            > GrizHFMinimill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
            >
            > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
            >
            >Hi, Littlemachineshop.com part number is 1638. My Mini Mill came with the single piece drawbar. Purchased approx nine months ago from Harbor Freight. I just ran an ammerican made die over it and it says it's a 7/16 -20 thread.

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          • bobjoshua
            Hullo Guys, The drawbar threads depend on what item of equipment you are using.For example my dividing head has a 2MT spindle and my lathe has a 3MT in the
            Message 5 of 8 , Jun 4, 2005
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              Hullo Guys,
              The drawbar threads depend on what item of equipment you
              are using.For example my dividing head has a 2MT spindle and my
              lathe has a 3MT in the spindle. To cut a gear I use a 10mm spindle
              holding the blank in a 10mm 2MT collet. To true the blank in the
              lathe the 2MT collet is mounted in a 3MT by 2MT sleeve. A metric
              threaded drawbar is used to pull the 2MT collet into the sleeve and
              then into the lathe spindle.
              Once the blank is trued the system can be released and the
              2MT transferred to the dividing head(vertex) and tightened up with
              the same metric drawbar.
              The drilling chuck in the minimill has an imperial thread
              on its attached 3MT so a different drawbar is used.
              I find that I need different length drawbars and different
              threads for different tools. Using threaded rod in the appropriate
              thread from the hardware store I make up requirements as needed.
              A quick check showed me eight different drawbars around
              the shop. I tighten the drawbars with a big washer and a suitable
              nut. When I get time I will run off suitable centreing guides for
              the drawbars but these are not absolutely necessary.
              Best of luck,
              bob.





              --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Chris Baugher
              <cbaugher_yahoo@b...> wrote:
              > On Sat, 28 May 2005, William Meincer wrote:
              >
              > > http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?
              > > PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=948312&PMAKA=231-4606
              > >
              > > It doesn't say but other Enco R8 collets use a 7/16-20 drawbar.
              Does
              > > a draw bar come with the Harbor Freight mill and if so what size
              is it
              > > (I can't seem to find this info anywhere)?
              >
              > It does come with a drawbar (of sorts) and I'm pretty sure it's
              7/16-20.
              > I say "of sorts" because it's kinda cheesy. It has a nut at the
              top end
              > instead of a bolt head. It works fine, it's just kinda lame.
              > Littlemachineshop.com makes a better one:
              >
              > http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?
              ProductID=1638
              >
              >
              > C|
            • Dave Jarzyna
              I just went to LOWES & purchased a long bolt with the right thread & length for about a buck---- Dave ... Homier was that way, and the first thing I made on
              Message 6 of 8 , Jun 4, 2005
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                I just went to LOWES & purchased a long bolt with the right thread &
                length for about a buck----
                Dave

                -- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Grady" <grady3@c...> wrote:
                > If that mill takes R8 collets, then yes it has that thread. My
                Homier was that way, and the first thing I made on lathe was a new
                drawbar for the mini mill. One piece is definitely better and easier
                than a stud, nut and washer.
                > ----- Original Message -----
                > From: Chris Baugher
                > To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
                > Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 10:31 AM
                > Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Sorry, another dumb question RE:
                draw bar
                >
                >
                > On Sat, 28 May 2005, William Meincer wrote:
                >
                > > http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?
                > > PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=948312&PMAKA=231-4606
                > >
                > > It doesn't say but other Enco R8 collets use a 7/16-20
                drawbar. Does
                > > a draw bar come with the Harbor Freight mill and if so what
                size is it
                > > (I can't seem to find this info anywhere)?
                >
                > It does come with a drawbar (of sorts) and I'm pretty sure it's
                7/16-20.
                > I say "of sorts" because it's kinda cheesy. It has a nut at the
                top end
                > instead of a bolt head. It works fine, it's just kinda lame.
                > Littlemachineshop.com makes a better one:
                >
                > http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?
                ProductID=1638
                >
                >
                > C|
                >
                >
                > --------------------------------------------------------------------
                ----------
                > Yahoo! Groups Links
                >
                > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
                > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GrizHFMinimill/
                >
                > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                > GrizHFMinimill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                >
                > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
                Service.
              • Dave J
                ... That sounds like a good solution, but really the lame- looking stock nut/drawbar doesn t bug me; it works. What bugs me is the locking pin and the cheezy
                Message 7 of 8 , Jun 19, 2005
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                  --- "Dave Jarzyna" <mmjarz@y...> wrote:
                  > I just went to LOWES & purchased a long bolt with the
                  > right thread & length for about a buck----
                  > Dave


                  That sounds like a good solution, but really the lame-
                  looking stock nut/drawbar doesn't bug me; it works. What
                  bugs me is the locking pin and the cheezy power switch.
                  I thought I'd add a kill switch next to the locking pin
                  hole but somehow that seems a little clunky -- another
                  wire and bracket. Now I'm wondering if it might make
                  sense to try to move the power switch box up a few inches,
                  and drill a new hole for the locking pin on the opposite
                  side. A cutout switch could then be mounted in the box
                  and the locking pin would be inserted through the box (add
                  a plastic guide tube inside). Make the fit snug and the pin
                  could always remain in the hole. The goofy power switch would
                  be replaced with a toggle switch.

                  The higher box location would help keep it out of the way
                  of anything like a rotary table, and for a right-handed
                  person I don't think it would be in the way for the drawbar.

                  Of course I ponder these things forever before I actually
                  do them...

                  Dave
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