Help with arbor removal in Grizzly.
- My new mill is in and I am having quite some difficulty removing the
drill chuck and arbor. I am following the instructions to a tee and
no dice. Any suggestions?
- Is this an MT3 or R8 arbor? MT3 is quite a bit harder to remove than R8. To
avoid damage to the threads on the draw bar you may want to substitute a
brass rod of the largest size that will pass through the spindle hole.
On my new mill the R8 arbor that came with it is very tight even after
several insertion/removal cycles. *MUCH* tighter than the decent quality end
mill holders bought at the same time. A recent mill review in Model
Engineer's Workshop magazine (English publication that everyone should
get...) mentioned the same tightness problem. I'm tempted to "adjust" the
chuck arbor with a little fine W/D emery paper.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: drabunich [mailto:drabunich@...]
> Sent: September 22, 2004 12:29
> To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Help with arbor removal in Grizzly.
> My new mill is in and I am having quite some difficulty removing the
> drill chuck and arbor. I am following the instructions to a tee and
> no dice. Any suggestions?
> Yahoo! Groups Links
- Hi Alex,
I had the same problem with my Grizzly. The factory must tighten the
My method of removing the male taper is similar to the other responses
that you have received, but with a slight difference.
To make it convenient, I took a piece of 1.500" diameter aluminum about
2" long. I bored out the end to just slip over the drawbar end to about
a 1/2' depth.
To loosen the taper, unscrew the drawbar just until you can revolve it
freely with your hand. (this keeps most of the thread in contact between
the bar and the tapered part, so the shock is taken up by more material)
Place the aluminum part on top of the bar and give it a sharp rap with a
ball peen hammer.
Leo (pearland, tx)