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Grizzly Rotary Table gear lash

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  • coffelt2
    Novice miller here, today finished milling circular cut out of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate. Had chatter problems while turning the table, either climb or
    Message 1 of 11 , Oct 19, 2013
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      Novice  miller here, today finished milling circular cut out of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate. Had chatter problems while turning the table, either climb or conventional style.

      The table has a degree or so of play or slack in rotation unless the friction is locked down tight. (can't advance then, of course)

       

      My table is a Grizzly H5685, their least expensive. Got mine second hand, but doesn't look like it was ever been out of the very nice box

       

      Catalog description tells of a lash adjustment screw. I don't see any obvious screw. The lash I have appears to be in the worm drive itself. The worm shaft does not shift, I've snugged up the calibrated shaft dial (a sleeve on the worm shaft) until it begins to bind a little, but the table still has that little bit of very annoying play.

       

      Is this just normal operation for the least expensive of anything? Do they all have this problem to some degree?.

    • John Lindo
      There may be underneath the table a bearing tension retaining ring that s adjustable,if it s similar to mine. Regards John Spain On Sunday, October 20, 2013
      Message 2 of 11 , Oct 19, 2013
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        There may be underneath the table a bearing tension retaining ring that's adjustable,if it's similar to mine.

        Regards
        John
        Spain


        On Sunday, October 20, 2013 6:37 AM, "coffelt2@..." <coffelt2@...> wrote:
         
        Novice  miller here, today finished milling circular cut out of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate. Had chatter problems while turning the table, either climb or conventional style.
        The table has a degree or so of play or slack in rotation unless the friction is locked down tight. (can't advance then, of course)
         
        My table is a Grizzly H5685, their least expensive. Got mine second hand, but doesn't look like it was ever been out of the very nice box
         
        Catalog description tells of a lash adjustment screw. I don't see any obvious screw. The lash I have appears to be in the worm drive itself. The worm shaft does not shift, I've snugged up the calibrated shaft dial (a sleeve on the worm shaft) until it begins to bind a little, but the table still has that little bit of very annoying play.
         
        Is this just normal operation for the least expensive of anything? Do they all have this problem to some degree?.


      • cds4byu
        Here s a link that shows how the lash adjust works. In this case, the clearance holes on the plate that holds the shaft were too small to allow the
        Message 3 of 11 , Oct 20, 2013
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           Here's a link that shows how the lash adjust works.  In this case, the clearance holes on the plate that holds the shaft were too small to allow the adjustment, so he went to just 3.  You could certainly increase the hole diameter if needed.


          The lash adjustment procedure is to loosen the four shaft-holding screws, then tighten up the set screw (moving the worm in closer to the worm gear) and then tighten the shaft holding screws.  You can see the lash-adjustment set screw on the pictures on the Grizzly web site.


          Hope this helps,


          Carl




          ---In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, <grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

          Novice  miller here, today finished milling circular cut out of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate. Had chatter problems while turning the table, either climb or conventional style.

          The table has a degree or so of play or slack in rotation unless the friction is locked down tight. (can't advance then, of course)

           

          My table is a Grizzly H5685, their least expensive. Got mine second hand, but doesn't look like it was ever been out of the very nice box

           

          Catalog description tells of a lash adjustment screw. I don't see any obvious screw. The lash I have appears to be in the worm drive itself. The worm shaft does not shift, I've snugged up the calibrated shaft dial (a sleeve on the worm shaft) until it begins to bind a little, but the table still has that little bit of very annoying play.

           

          Is this just normal operation for the least expensive of anything? Do they all have this problem to some degree?.

        • coffelt2
          Thanks John and Carl. I don t see any adjustment possibilities from the bottom bearing retaining set up on mine but that would certainly be helpful if it did.
          Message 4 of 11 , Oct 20, 2013
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            Thanks John and Carl.

                 I don't see any adjustment possibilities from the bottom bearing retaining set up on mine but that would certainly be helpful if it did. Thanks, John.

             

            Carl, the link you mentioned does not appear in your very helpful reply. I get where the solution may lie. Is there anyway you could email me the link? It sounds like just what I was hoping for: coffelt2@...

            Meanwhile, I'll bumble around on YouTube and maybe find a lead. Thanks, Carl 



            ---In grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com, <carl_sorensen@...> wrote:

             Here's a link that shows how the lash adjust works.  In this case, the clearance holes on the plate that holds the shaft were too small to allow the adjustment, so he went to just 3.  You could certainly increase the hole diameter if needed.


            The lash adjustment procedure is to loosen the four shaft-holding screws, then tighten up the set screw (moving the worm in closer to the worm gear) and then tighten the shaft holding screws.  You can see the lash-adjustment set screw on the pictures on the Grizzly web site.


            Hope this helps,


            Carl




            ---In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, <grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

            Novice  miller here, today finished milling circular cut out of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate. Had chatter problems while turning the table, either climb or conventional style.

            The table has a degree or so of play or slack in rotation unless the friction is locked down tight. (can't advance then, of course)

             

            My table is a Grizzly H5685, their least expensive. Got mine second hand, but doesn't look like it was ever been out of the very nice box

             

            Catalog description tells of a lash adjustment screw. I don't see any obvious screw. The lash I have appears to be in the worm drive itself. The worm shaft does not shift, I've snugged up the calibrated shaft dial (a sleeve on the worm shaft) until it begins to bind a little, but the table still has that little bit of very annoying play.

             

            Is this just normal operation for the least expensive of anything? Do they all have this problem to some degree?.

          • Floyd Burkett
            Howdy Carl,   I would be interested in the link on adjusting the rotary table also. My table has a bit of backlash also.   Floyd  
            Message 5 of 11 , Oct 20, 2013
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              Howdy Carl,
               
              I would be interested in the link on adjusting the rotary table also. My table has a bit of backlash also.
               
              Floyd
               
              From: "coffelt2@..." <coffelt2@...>
              To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 10:12 AM
              Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] RE: Grizzly Rotary Table gear lash
               
              Thanks John and Carl.
                   I don't see any adjustment possibilities from the bottom bearing retaining set up on mine but that would certainly be helpful if it did. Thanks, John.
               
              Carl, the link you mentioned does not appear in your very helpful reply. I get where the solution may lie. Is there anyway you could email me the link? It sounds like just what I was hoping for: coffelt2@...
              Meanwhile, I'll bumble around on YouTube and maybe find a lead. Thanks, Carl 
              ---In grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com, <carl_sorensen@...> wrote:
               Here's a link that shows how the lash adjust works.  In this case, the clearance holes on the plate that holds the shaft were too small to allow the adjustment, so he went to just 3.  You could certainly increase the hole diameter if needed.

              The lash adjustment procedure is to loosen the four shaft-holding screws, then tighten up the set screw (moving the worm in closer to the worm gear) and then tighten the shaft holding screws.  You can see the lash-adjustment set screw on the pictures on the Grizzly web site.

              Hope this helps,

              Carl

              ---In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, <grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
              Novice  miller here, today finished milling circular cut out of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate. Had chatter problems while turning the table, either climb or conventional style.
              The table has a degree or so of play or slack in rotation unless the friction is locked down tight. (can't advance then, of course)
               
              My table is a Grizzly H5685, their least expensive. Got mine second hand, but doesn't look like it was ever been out of the very nice box
               
              Catalog description tells of a lash adjustment screw. I don't see any obvious screw. The lash I have appears to be in the worm drive itself. The worm shaft does not shift, I've snugged up the calibrated shaft dial (a sleeve on the worm shaft) until it begins to bind a little, but the table still has that little bit of very annoying play.
               
              Is this just normal operation for the least expensive of anything? Do they all have this problem to some degree?.
            • cds4byu
              Let s try again. The link is: http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=5372.0 Carl ... Thanks John and Carl. I don t see any adjustment possibilities from the
              Message 6 of 11 , Oct 21, 2013
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                Let's try again.  The link is:


                http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=5372.0



                Carl

                 



                ---In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, <grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                Thanks John and Carl.

                     I don't see any adjustment possibilities from the bottom bearing retaining set up on mine but that would certainly be helpful if it did. Thanks, John.

                 

                Carl, the link you mentioned does not appear in your very helpful reply. I get where the solution may lie. Is there anyway you could email me the link? It sounds like just what I was hoping for: coffelt2@...

                Meanwhile, I'll bumble around on YouTube and maybe find a lead. Thanks, Carl 



                ---In grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com, <carl_sorensen@...> wrote:

                 Here's a link that shows how the lash adjust works.  In this case, the clearance holes on the plate that holds the shaft were too small to allow the adjustment, so he went to just 3.  You could certainly increase the hole diameter if needed.


                The lash adjustment procedure is to loosen the four shaft-holding screws, then tighten up the set screw (moving the worm in closer to the worm gear) and then tighten the shaft holding screws.  You can see the lash-adjustment set screw on the pictures on the Grizzly web site.


                Hope this helps,


                Carl




                ---In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, <grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                Novice  miller here, today finished milling circular cut out of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate. Had chatter problems while turning the table, either climb or conventional style.

                The table has a degree or so of play or slack in rotation unless the friction is locked down tight. (can't advance then, of course)

                 

                My table is a Grizzly H5685, their least expensive. Got mine second hand, but doesn't look like it was ever been out of the very nice box

                 

                Catalog description tells of a lash adjustment screw. I don't see any obvious screw. The lash I have appears to be in the worm drive itself. The worm shaft does not shift, I've snugged up the calibrated shaft dial (a sleeve on the worm shaft) until it begins to bind a little, but the table still has that little bit of very annoying play.

                 

                Is this just normal operation for the least expensive of anything? Do they all have this problem to some degree?.

              • cannontandem
                I looked at Grizzly s web site for this item http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5685 http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5685 and they say there is a
                Message 7 of 11 , Oct 21, 2013
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                  I looked at Grizzly's web site for this item     http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5685     and they say there is a adjustment screw for lash. It may be the one on the side close to the table indicator mark shown in their photo.

                  Little machine shops instructions are for a different kind of table but may apply to your situation. See pages 3 and 4 at     http://littlemachineshop.com/instructions/RotaryTable.pdf 



                  ---In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, <grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                  Novice  miller here, today finished milling circular cut out of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate. Had chatter problems while turning the table, either climb or conventional style.

                  The table has a degree or so of play or slack in rotation unless the friction is locked down tight. (can't advance then, of course)

                   

                  My table is a Grizzly H5685, their least expensive. Got mine second hand, but doesn't look like it was ever been out of the very nice box

                   

                  Catalog description tells of a lash adjustment screw. I don't see any obvious screw. The lash I have appears to be in the worm drive itself. The worm shaft does not shift, I've snugged up the calibrated shaft dial (a sleeve on the worm shaft) until it begins to bind a little, but the table still has that little bit of very annoying play.

                   

                  Is this just normal operation for the least expensive of anything? Do they all have this problem to some degree?.

                • coffelt2
                  Thanks, Carl.. The link works and the methods and pictures involving the 4 RT were great. I just finished going through the procedure and mine had enough play
                  Message 8 of 11 , Oct 21, 2013
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                         Thanks, Carl.. The link works and the methods and pictures involving the 4" RT were great. I just finished going through the procedure and mine had enough play in the four bearing attach screws to allow all the gear lash to be removed (and then some) without enlarging any holes or leaving one screw out.

                         After removing the visable and "feelable" gear lash, there were some rough spots in the table travel. After disassembling there were a couple of damaged teeth on the table's brass gear. They had obviously been inflicted by the steel worm gear itself. Maybe the table had been dropped somewhere along it's travels or maybe someone had really "torqued" on the knob/handle when the table was locked, don't know. anyway, using a knife and small "V" shaped file, cleaned up the damaged teeth as well as possible, lubed and reassembled. Looking good. Have not used table yet, but thanks, thanks, it's a whole lot better now.

                         In the "MadModdler" forum, from the link you provided there was more! One suggested a little brass slug "gib" under the set screw for the dial indexed bushing.........  I find mine already had a brass gib down there.

                         Some YouTube video's introduced ideas for some sort of hold-down or center post in the center of the table, where the "T" slots cross in the middle. I haven't tried to see how accurate it is, yet, but I ran a 21/64th drill down the existing central smooth bore hole and tapped it with a 3/8 x 28 tap. I'm hoping it proves pretty close to center for a Hold-down point.

                         Many thanks again, Carl (I applied for MadModdler membership)

                     

                    Old Chief Lynn   



                    ---In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, <grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                    Let's try again.  The link is:


                    http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=5372.0



                    Carl

                     



                    ---In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, <grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                    Thanks John and Carl.

                         I don't see any adjustment possibilities from the bottom bearing retaining set up on mine but that would certainly be helpful if it did. Thanks, John.

                     

                    Carl, the link you mentioned does not appear in your very helpful reply. I get where the solution may lie. Is there anyway you could email me the link? It sounds like just what I was hoping for: coffelt2@...

                    Meanwhile, I'll bumble around on YouTube and maybe find a lead. Thanks, Carl 



                    ---In grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com, <carl_sorensen@...> wrote:

                     Here's a link that shows how the lash adjust works.  In this case, the clearance holes on the plate that holds the shaft were too small to allow the adjustment, so he went to just 3.  You could certainly increase the hole diameter if needed.


                    The lash adjustment procedure is to loosen the four shaft-holding screws, then tighten up the set screw (moving the worm in closer to the worm gear) and then tighten the shaft holding screws.  You can see the lash-adjustment set screw on the pictures on the Grizzly web site.


                    Hope this helps,


                    Carl




                    ---In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, <grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                    Novice  miller here, today finished milling circular cut out of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate. Had chatter problems while turning the table, either climb or conventional style.

                    The table has a degree or so of play or slack in rotation unless the friction is locked down tight. (can't advance then, of course)

                     

                    My table is a Grizzly H5685, their least expensive. Got mine second hand, but doesn't look like it was ever been out of the very nice box

                     

                    Catalog description tells of a lash adjustment screw. I don't see any obvious screw. The lash I have appears to be in the worm drive itself. The worm shaft does not shift, I've snugged up the calibrated shaft dial (a sleeve on the worm shaft) until it begins to bind a little, but the table still has that little bit of very annoying play.

                     

                    Is this just normal operation for the least expensive of anything? Do they all have this problem to some degree?.

                  • Alan Reinhart
                    I ve just competed adding a Sinpo DRO to my LMS 3960. Normally this set of scales is used on larger machines, but got a set of small Sinpo scales and it
                    Message 9 of 11 , Oct 22, 2013
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                      I've just competed adding a Sinpo DRO to my LMS 3960.  Normally this set of scales is used on larger machines, but got a set of small Sinpo scales and it worked out very well.

                      Details may be seen here:   http://www.avrdev.net/big-dro-small-mill/
                      ...with extra pix in the 'Projects' section.

                      =Alan R.
                    • kaje7777
                      Thanks for sharing - that is really a nice setup. I have the simpler DROs on my mill (came with it - bought used). If I was going to add DRO to a mill I would
                      Message 10 of 11 , Oct 23, 2013
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                        Thanks for sharing - that is really a nice setup.


                        I have the simpler DROs on my mill (came with it - bought used). If I was going to add DRO to a mill I would certainly be tempted to follow your example - looks like a nice big display with some nice built in functions.


                        On the other hand: For anyone trying to make a decision on this, I can say this for the cheaper DROs: They do the job well, the accuracy is good, and while they don't do things like bolt circle it's easy enough to do those on a home computer and then use the results manually. 


                        On the other other hand: That really is a nice looking DRO setup!



                        ---In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, <grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                        I've just competed adding a Sinpo DRO to my LMS 3960.  Normally this set of scales is used on larger machines, but got a set of small Sinpo scales and it worked out very well.

                        Details may be seen here:   http://www.avrdev.net/big-dro-small-mill/
                        ...with extra pix in the 'Projects' section.

                        =Alan R.
                      • Alan Reinhart
                        Kevin - thanks for taking a peek at my new baby ! Yes - it is DEF a luxury setup. But then again - the total price was $500 and if you put 1/2 of that for
                        Message 11 of 11 , Oct 23, 2013
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                          Kevin - thanks for taking a peek at my new 'baby'!

                          Yes - it is DEF a luxury setup.  But then again - the total price was $500 and if you put 1/2 of that for the scales - $250 for three 5-micron glass scales isn't that far from the iGauging style.  As I wrote - Yuriy's Android/Arduino based DRO system looked very good - but in the end was so close in price I went ahead for a commercial version.  It was enough work to just install the darn thing!

                          Just did my first work with the DRO and the 'big vise':   Clamped a .7" length of AL in the vise, only roughly centered it on the table.  Then used the DRO's "1/2" function to locate center:  touched one edge - zeroed x - the went over to the other side of x and hit the "X -> 1/2"  button and X was centered.  Did the same for Y - and was ready to go.  Was setting up to drill a hole on a piece of round-stock - worked like down town!   :-)

                          As I say - a very luxurious but def handy addition.

                          =Alan R.


                          On 10/23/2013 2:08 PM, kevin.quiggle@... wrote:
                           

                          Thanks for sharing - that is really a nice setup.


                          I have the simpler DROs on my mill (came with it - bought used). If I was going to add DRO to a mill I would certainly be tempted to follow your example - looks like a nice big display with some nice built in functions.


                          On the other hand: For anyone trying to make a decision on this, I can say this for the cheaper DROs: They do the job well, the accuracy is good, and while they don't do things like bolt circle it's easy enough to do those on a home computer and then use the results manually. 


                          On the other other hand: That really is a nice looking DRO setup!



                          ---In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, <grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                          I've just competed adding a Sinpo DRO to my LMS 3960.  Normally this set of scales is used on larger machines, but got a set of small Sinpo scales and it worked out very well.

                          Details may be seen here:   http://www.avrdev.net/big-dro-small-mill/
                          ...with extra pix in the 'Projects' section.

                          =Alan R.

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