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Fw: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.

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  • mike kolacz
    Nevermind. I just re-read the description and it clearly says Its output will go directly to the battery contacts in each display. Mike. ... From: mike
    Message 1 of 30 , Jul 10 10:14 PM
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      Nevermind.
      I just re-read the description and it clearly says "Its output will go directly to the battery contacts in each display."
      Mike.

      ----- Forwarded Message -----
      From: mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...>
      To: "GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com" <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 10:25 PM
      Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.

       
      Hi Gary,

      Thanks for the clarification. Did you make an individual assembly for each readout or are all three on the same circuit? I think they are probably all together but I didn't see a pic' of the wires in the box. By the way, I have enjoyed your website very much. Well done sir.

      Mike.



      From: g_liming <g_liming@...>
      To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 8:47 PM
      Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.

       
      Hi Mike,

      I'm "the guy" who did the website you are looking at.

      The DROs need 3 volts. There is a handy LD33 regulator that takes in at least 4.5 volts and puts out that voltage, so with 12v that leaves lots of headroom for the dropout voltage, which is good around machines with large motors being switched on and off.

      I had a 12 v supply for the lights, so I used that, although in the website description I mentioned that wall warts are very iffy about their output, most have poor filters on them because filters need physical space to create the capacitance, so you can either get an honest 12v regulated supply, or look around for a better wall wart like I did.

      If you've got a decent 12 V, you shouldn't need a separate one for the DRO's. Use a larger filter cap (something like a 1000 uf 18v or better) across the 12v to keep it from going too low. The LD33 is a pretty sophisticated supply chip inits own right.

      The power consumed by both the LD33 and the DRO is very small, so just about any wall wart should be enough, the problem is consistancy of the power.

      Gary

      --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...> wrote:
      >

      > My ability definitely doesn't point there yet, but I enjoy learning new things and am not in a hurry. That said, there has been a lot of great response to my OP.
      > I think I'm going to go with two power sources, one at 12V for the light rings, and one at just over 3V for the DRO's. I'll continue reading about circuitry for future projects.
      > Mike.
      >





    • nericarmi
      BTW, no intention to hijack the thread (just to add to it) here is my take for the 3.3v regulated power for the iGaging display based on Snailworks RFMill
      Message 2 of 30 , Sep 30, 2013
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        BTW, no intention to hijack the thread (just to add to it) 
        here is my take for the 3.3v regulated power for the iGaging display based on Snailworks RFMill

        http://www.flickr.com/photos/ 73243110@N04/sets/ 72157636045455504/ 



        ---In grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com, <g_liming@...> wrote:

        All three DRO's are powered by the same LD33.

        The website is www.liming.org/rfmill

        Thanks for the nice words, I hope it is a help to you.

        Gary
      • tcyclist
        My $.02: A wall wart with enough output power (amps/milliamps out) to power the LED lighting should be enough for everything, but a separate supply for the
        Message 3 of 30 , Oct 4, 2013
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          My $.02: A wall wart with enough output power (amps/milliamps out) to power the LED lighting should be enough for everything, but a separate supply for the power to the DROs might be a better way to go.

          If you already have a computer (or other) power supply that you know how to adapt, that would be cheapest way to go.

          Here's my solution though: There are DC voltage regulator circuit boards listed on ebay that meet all of the DROs needs: filtered DC output voltage adjustable from 1.25vdc to 30vdc that operate on input from 5vdc to 40vdc. I saw a listing for one for 99 cents and another for 5 boards for $7 or so. (Do an ebay search for DC voltage regulator.

          In my opinion, unless you are doing a learning exercise, cheapest and simplest is best if it gets the job done. That said, some Chinese electronics can be hit or miss.

          I am mostly a lurker and am continually frustrated and amazed that so many posters with vast knowledge and experience don't reply in a way that almost anyone can understand. And they often refer to info on the internet without including the link.

          Thanks for letting me vent.

          Tom C.
        • mike kolacz
          Thanks for venting. So what I ve done so far is made a wiring harness that has a switch for the light and a switch for the DRO s. at this time only the light
          Message 4 of 30 , Oct 4, 2013
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            Thanks for venting. So what I've done so far is made a wiring harness that has a switch for the light and a switch for the DRO's. at this time only the light is connected to the harness and power supply. The DRO's are operating on batteries. I am indeed doing a lot of learning exercises and enjoying the heck out of them. I'm in the middle of a reverse tumbler mod on my lathe after making a four bolt tool holder clamp. Please keep offering $.02 or more.
            Mike Kolacz



            From: tcyclist <tcyclist@...>
            To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Friday, October 4, 2013 1:21 PM
            Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.

             


            My $.02: A wall wart with enough output power (amps/milliamps out) to power the LED lighting should be enough for everything, but a separate supply for the power to the DROs might be a better way to go.

            If you already have a computer (or other) power supply that you know how to adapt, that would be cheapest way to go.

            Here's my solution though: There are DC voltage regulator circuit boards listed on ebay that meet all of the DROs needs: filtered DC output voltage adjustable from 1.25vdc to 30vdc that operate on input from 5vdc to 40vdc. I saw a listing for one for 99 cents and another for 5 boards for $7 or so. (Do an ebay search for DC voltage regulator.

            In my opinion, unless you are doing a learning exercise, cheapest and simplest is best if it gets the job done. That said, some Chinese electronics can be hit or miss.

            I am mostly a lurker and am continually frustrated and amazed that so many posters with vast knowledge and experience don't reply in a way that almost anyone can understand. And they often refer to info on the internet without including the link.

            Thanks for letting me vent.

            Tom C.



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