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## Re: [GrizHFMinimill] DRO and light wiring.

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• ... This is the book I found most useful: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Art-Electronics-Paul-Horowitz/dp/0521370957 It probably goes into much more detail than you
Message 1 of 30 , Jul 7, 2013
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3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?
I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me.

This is the book I found most useful:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Art-Electronics-Paul-Horowitz/dp/0521370957
It probably goes into much more detail than you need, but:
- it has an engineering approach - rule of thumb and basic understanding rather than lots of maths;
- it has lots of discussion about what can go wrong - the most important bit!

I've always found it highly useful  although I'm only a mechanical engineer so haven't used much of the information. My friends doing electrical/electronic engineering found it indispensable.

Best regards

Martin
• Hi, Mike, Harvey gave you some good advice. I ll just add a few comments here. I would also have estimated 20 mA per LED, though it might be somewhat lower.
Message 2 of 30 , Jul 7, 2013
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Hi, Mike,

Harvey gave you some good advice.  I'll just add a few comments here.

I would also have estimated 20 mA per LED, though it might be somewhat lower.  Always better safe than sorry.

When you get direct current from a battery, it is a constant voltage that very gradually decreases with time as the battery discharges.  When you covert AC to DC, you can get several different results.  If there is no filtering, the output is usually a 120 Hz series of sinusoidal DC pulses.  The LEDs don't care about the wave shape of the DC voltage, and this would be fine for them.

The DRO, however, will likely be affected by this wave shape.  Therefore, it's necessary to filter the voltage to minimize this "pulsing".  It is somewhat difficult to remove it all.  The remainder is referred to as "ripple", and there is some maximum amount that circuits (like the DRO) can withstand.  The DRO may have its own filter internally, which would be very helpful, or you may need a filter in your power supply.  I would check the DRO schematic, if you have access to it, or ask here.

See here  for a more detailed explanation of ripple.

The net result of all this is that I would personally keep the power supplies for the DROs and the lights separate.  By doing so, you can easily filter the DROs by using a large capacitor, and you can use a much smaller power supply for the DRO.

Just my two cents...

Charlie

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz wrote:
>
> I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks ( http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
> 1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?
> 2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm                39LED headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
> 3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?
> I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me.
> Thanks for any help.
> Mike.
>
• ... That was a worst case (nominal). ... With the effect that the LEDS will turn on and off at a 120 Hz rate, so you ll have a strobe effect. Most of the wall
Message 3 of 30 , Jul 7, 2013
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On Sun, 07 Jul 2013 10:59:12 -0000, you wrote:

>Hi, Mike,
>
>Harvey gave you some good advice. I'll just add a few comments here.
>
>I would also have estimated 20 mA per LED, though it might be somewhat
>lower. Always better safe than sorry.

That was a worst case (nominal).
>
>When you get direct current from a battery, it is a constant voltage
>that very gradually decreases with time as the battery discharges. When
>you covert AC to DC, you can get several different results. If there is
>no filtering, the output is usually a 120 Hz series of sinusoidal DC
>pulses. The LEDs don't care about the wave shape of the DC voltage, and
>this would be fine for them.
>

With the effect that the LEDS will turn on and off at a 120 Hz rate,
so you'll have a strobe effect.

Most of the wall warts have a filter capacitor built in, so you won't
see much of this. It has to be a DC supply, though.

>The DRO, however, will likely be affected by this wave shape.
>Therefore, it's necessary to filter the voltage to minimize this
>"pulsing". It is somewhat difficult to remove it all. The remainder is
>referred to as "ripple", and there is some maximum amount that circuits
>(like the DRO) can withstand. The DRO may have its own filter
>internally, which would be very helpful, or you may need a filter in
>your power supply. I would check the DRO schematic, if you have access
>to it, or ask here.

Since the DRO runs off DC (assuming a modified Chinese DRO/scale), the
only capacitor used would be to reduce the impedance of the battery.
What that means in this application is that the capacitor is likely
too small to do the job of filtering pulsating DC to smooth DC. I'd
get a small switching regulator wall wart (they're lighter than the
ones with transformers) and use it. The switchers may have a "nicer"
output. Also bear in mind that the scales are probably going to want
1.5 volts, and the circuit used to drop the 5 to 12 volts from the
wall wart will be doing its own filtering as well.

I doubt that you'd need more than a 100 ma output.

>
>See here <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ripple_%28electrical%29> for a
>more detailed explanation of ripple.
>
>The net result of all this is that I would personally keep the power
>supplies for the DROs and the lights separate. By doing so, you can
>easily filter the DROs by using a large capacitor, and you can use a
>much smaller power supply for the DRO.

Yep, good idea.

You could just as easily use (probably) a single AA cell, and that
would power it for several years. The ones I have run off an
expensive battery, which corrodes (the cheap Chinese ones....), and is
annoying to replace. You'd have to be able to get into the device or
make yourself a fake battery (isolated + and -) and then put that in,
run the wires out through the snap lid, and then connect the 1.35
volts.

Easiest way, though, is to follow the instructions, since some of this
can get a trifle complicated if you're not familiar with the parts.

>
>Just my two cents...

To which I have added one or two more....

Harvey

>
>Charlie
>
>
>
>
>--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz wrote:
>>
>> I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my
>lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks (
>http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage
>reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
>> 1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?
>> 2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light
>rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm 39LED headlight
>rings mounted around the spindle)
>> 3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits
>and where to get components?
>> I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of
>knowledge concerns me.
>> Thanks for any help.
>> Mike.
>>
• I like the idea of the ring lights, and may build one some day. In the meanwhile, I m using a couple of LED lamps and they are working pretty well, though they
Message 4 of 30 , Jul 7, 2013
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I like the idea of the ring lights, and may build one some day. In the meanwhile, I'm using a couple of LED lamps and they are working pretty well, though they can get in the way at times:

Some more links on mill lighting here:

Sounds like a good project in any case; please let us know how it works out.

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
>
> On Sat, 6 Jul 2013 13:33:45 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:
>
> >I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks ( http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:

<snip>
• Hi, Try just keeping the DRO power separate from the LED b/c u will have some noise getting that supply voltage controlled and filter may prove cumbersome and
Message 5 of 30 , Jul 7, 2013
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Hi,
Try just keeping the DRO power separate from the LED b/c u will have some noise getting that supply voltage controlled and filter may prove cumbersome and complicated since your ability doesn't point to DIY SMD boards at best case scenario u can do through-hole. My suggestion will be leave the DRO battery and rout from the fan power supply in the back box a line for the LED ...worked for me. Fortunately for me I have 2 good friends who are electrical engineers (it is nice to have so much hi-tech around here in Seattle) that after personal examination came the same conclusion that this will be the most practical way of going about it

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 6, 2013, at 3:13 PM, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...> wrote:

I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks ( http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?
2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm                39LED headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?
I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me.
Thanks for any help.
Mike.

• A very good series of books by the US Navy, would be a great starting point the first of which is Basic Electronics, from Amazon, but there are other sources.:
Message 6 of 30 , Jul 7, 2013
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 A very good series of books by the US Navy, would be a great starting point the first of which is Basic Electronics, from Amazon, but there are other sources.:I used them before I started my out as an Electronics Engineer.Malcolm I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it! Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin The writing is on the wall. --- On Sun, 7/7/13, Martin Brown wrote:From: Martin Brown Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] DRO and light wiring.To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.comDate: Sunday, July 7, 2013, 11:48 AM   3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me. This is the book I found most useful: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Art-Electronics-Paul-Horowitz/dp/0521370957 It probably goes into much more detail than you need, but:  - it has an engineering approach - rule of thumb and basic understanding rather than lots of maths;  - it has lots of discussion about what can go wrong - the most important bit! I've always found it highly useful  although I'm only a mechanical engineer so haven't used much of the information. My friends doing electrical/electronic engineering found it indispensable. Best regards Martin
• My ability definitely doesn t point there yet, but I enjoy learning new things and am not in a hurry. That said, there has been a lot of great response to my
Message 7 of 30 , Jul 7, 2013
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My ability definitely doesn't point there yet, but I enjoy learning new things and am not in a hurry. That said, there has been a lot of great response to my OP.
I think I'm going to go with two power sources, one at 12V for the light rings, and one at just over 3V for the DRO's. I'll continue reading about circuitry for future projects.
Mike.

From: Neri Carmi <nericarmi@...>
To: "GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com" <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2013 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] DRO and light wiring.

Hi,
Try just keeping the DRO power separate from the LED b/c u will have some noise getting that supply voltage controlled and filter may prove cumbersome and complicated since your ability doesn't point to DIY SMD boards at best case scenario u can do through-hole. My suggestion will be leave the DRO battery and rout from the fan power supply in the back box a line for the LED ...worked for me. Fortunately for me I have 2 good friends who are electrical engineers (it is nice to have so much hi-tech around here in Seattle) that after personal examination came the same conclusion that this will be the most practical way of going about it

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 6, 2013, at 3:13 PM, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...> wrote:

I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks ( http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?
2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm                39LED headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?
I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me.
Thanks for any help.
Mike.

• Okay, I thought I had it figured out. I have a 12Vdc wall wort that will be ample for the light rings, and I found a 3.2V wall wort in my junk drawer. On
Message 8 of 30 , Jul 7, 2013
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Okay, I thought I had it figured out. I have a 12Vdc wall wort that will be ample for the light rings, and I found a 3.2V wall wort in my junk drawer. On closer inspection I find the 3.2V is an AC to AC adapter. Will the DRO's tolerate AC if it is the proper voltage?
Mike.

From: mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...>
To: "GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com" <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2013 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] DRO and light wiring.

My ability definitely doesn't point there yet, but I enjoy learning new things and am not in a hurry. That said, there has been a lot of great response to my OP.
I think I'm going to go with two power sources, one at 12V for the light rings, and one at just over 3V for the DRO's. I'll continue reading about circuitry for future projects.
Mike.

From: Neri Carmi <nericarmi@...>
To: "GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com" <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2013 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] DRO and light wiring.

Hi,
Try just keeping the DRO power separate from the LED b/c u will have some noise getting that supply voltage controlled and filter may prove cumbersome and complicated since your ability doesn't point to DIY SMD boards at best case scenario u can do through-hole. My suggestion will be leave the DRO battery and rout from the fan power supply in the back box a line for the LED ...worked for me. Fortunately for me I have 2 good friends who are electrical engineers (it is nice to have so much hi-tech around here in Seattle) that after personal examination came the same conclusion that this will be the most practical way of going about it

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 6, 2013, at 3:13 PM, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...> wrote:

I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks ( http://www.liming.org/frmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?
2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm                39LED headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?
I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me.
Thanks for any help.
Mike.

• ... NO. use DC only. Harvey
Message 9 of 30 , Jul 7, 2013
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On Sun, 7 Jul 2013 16:01:31 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>Okay, I thought I had it figured out. I have a 12Vdc wall wort that will be ample for the light rings, and I found a 3.2V wall wort in my junk drawer. On closer inspection I find the 3.2V is an AC to AC adapter. Will the DRO's tolerate AC if it is the proper voltage?

NO.

use DC only.

Harvey

>Mike.
>
>
>
>
>________________________________
> From: mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...>
>To: "GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com" <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2013 3:55 PM
>Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] DRO and light wiring.
>
>
>

>My ability definitely doesn't point there yet, but I enjoy learning new things and am not in a hurry. That said, there has been a lot of great response to my OP.
>I think I'm going to go with two power sources, one at 12V for the light rings, and one at just over 3V for the DRO's. I'll continue reading about circuitry for future projects.
>Mike.
>
>
>
>
>________________________________
> From: Neri Carmi <nericarmi@...>
>To: "GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com" <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Sunday, July 7, 2013 10:42 AM
>Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] DRO and light wiring.
>
>
>

>Hi,
>Try just keeping the DRO power separate from the LED b/c u will have some noise getting that supply voltage controlled and filter may prove cumbersome and complicated since your ability doesn't point to DIY SMD boards at best case scenario u can do through-hole. My suggestion will be leave the DRO battery and rout from the fan power supply in the back box a line for the LED ...worked for me. Fortunately for me I have 2 good friends who are electrical engineers (it is nice to have so much hi-tech around here in Seattle) that after personal examination came the same conclusion that this will be the most practical way of going about it
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On Jul 6, 2013, at 3:13 PM, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...> wrote:
>
>

>>I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks ( http://www.liming.org/frmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
>>1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?
>>2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm                39LED headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
>>3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?
>>I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me.
>>Thanks for any help.
>>Mike.
>>
>>
>
>
>
• Here is what I believe is the same book as a free download: http://www.scribd.com/doc/33152860/Basic-Electronics-Vol-1-US-Navy Related free online information
Message 10 of 30 , Jul 8, 2013
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Here is what I believe is the same book as a free download:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/33152860/Basic-Electronics-Vol-1-US-Navy

Related free online information here:

http://jacquesricher.com/NEETS/

U.S taxpayers already paid for this information; no need to pay for it again.

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg <mparkerlisberg@...> wrote:
>
> A very good series of books by the US Navy, would be a great starting point the first of which is Basic Electronics, from Amazon, but there are other sources.:
> <http://www.amazon.com/Basic-Electronics-Dover-Books-Engineering/dp/0486210766>
> I used them before I started my out as an Electronics Engineer.
>
> Malcolm
>
• Thanks for the trip down memory lane. Still as good as it was when I was 12 yrs old and it was on the newly purchased books,  just published, shelf in the
Message 11 of 30 , Jul 8, 2013
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 Thanks for the trip down memory lane.Still as good as it was when I was 12 yrs old and it was on the newly purchased books,  just published, shelf in the library. MalcolmI don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it! Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin The writing is on the wall. Ha-ktovet al ha-kir --- On Mon, 7/8/13, kaje7777 wrote:From: kaje7777 Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.comDate: Monday, July 8, 2013, 5:46 PM  Here is what I believe is the same book as a free download: http://www.scribd.com/doc/33152860/Basic-Electronics-Vol-1-US-Navy Related free online information here: http://jacquesricher.com/NEETS/ U.S taxpayers already paid for this information; no need to pay for it again. --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg wrote: > > A very good series of books by the US Navy, would be a great starting point the first of which is Basic Electronics, from Amazon, but there are other sources.: > > I used them before I started my out as an Electronics Engineer. > > Malcolm >
• I converted a computer power supply to run my DRO and LED lighting - Supply voltages are regulated +3 +5 and +12 DC volts with a common ground. Plenty of power
Message 12 of 30 , Jul 8, 2013
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I converted a computer power supply to run my DRO and LED lighting - Supply voltages are regulated +3 +5 and +12 DC volts with a common ground. Plenty of power (400+watts), filtered (very low ripple), built in overload protection and cooling in one convenient enclosure. Works great and there are instructions on the net for converting and wiring -This is a very simple and safe conversion. Old computers are not too hard to come by and my power supply was free.

AJ

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...> wrote:
>
> I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks ( http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
> 1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?
> 2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm                39LED headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
> 3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?
> I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me.
> Thanks for any help.
> Mike.
>
• There s no need to design and build a power supply from scratch - either repurpose a PC power supply or buy a new one with the exact inputs and output voltages
Message 13 of 30 , Jul 8, 2013
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There's no need to design and build a power supply from scratch - either repurpose a PC power supply or buy a new one with the exact inputs and output voltages you need. This one from Jameco is only \$25 and has +5V(4A) and +12V(2A) outputs.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_323460_-1

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "snrg41" <ajxnagy@...> wrote:
>
> I converted a computer power supply to run my DRO and LED lighting - Supply voltages are regulated +3 +5 and +12 DC volts with a common ground. Plenty of power (400+watts), filtered (very low ripple), built in overload protection and cooling in one convenient enclosure. Works great and there are instructions on the net for converting and wiring -This is a very simple and safe conversion. Old computers are not too hard to come by and my power supply was free.
>
> AJ
>
> --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@> wrote:
> >
> > I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks ( http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
> > 1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?ï¿½
> > 2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½39LED headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
> > 3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?
> > I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me.
> > Thanks for any help.
> > Mike.ï¿½
> >
>
• I would be grateful for any links or instructions. Did you take pic s while doing the conversion? Thanks, Mike. ________________________________ From: snrg41
Message 14 of 30 , Jul 8, 2013
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I would be grateful for any links or instructions. Did you take pic's while doing the conversion?
Thanks,
Mike.

From: snrg41 <ajxnagy@...>
To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 4:03 PM
Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.

I converted a computer power supply to run my DRO and LED lighting - Supply voltages are regulated +3 +5 and +12 DC volts with a common ground. Plenty of power (400+watts), filtered (very low ripple), built in overload protection and cooling in one convenient enclosure. Works great and there are instructions on the net for converting and wiring -This is a very simple and safe conversion. Old computers are not too hard to come by and my power supply was free.

AJ

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...> wrote:
>
> I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks ( http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
> 1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?
> 2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm                39LED headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
> 3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?
> I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me.
> Thanks for any help.
> Mike.
>

• ... Wall warts at thrift stores are pretty cheap, and a voltmeter brought along with a bit of testing could save you serious money. You need 12 volts at
Message 15 of 30 , Jul 8, 2013
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On Mon, 08 Jul 2013 22:40:37 -0000, you wrote:

>There's no need to design and build a power supply from scratch - either repurpose a PC power supply or buy a new one with the exact inputs and output voltages you need. This one from Jameco is only \$25 and has +5V(4A) and +12V(2A) outputs.
>http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_323460_-1
>

Wall warts at thrift stores are pretty cheap, and a voltmeter brought
along with a bit of testing could save you serious money.

You need 12 volts at probably 1.6 to 2 amps (if both are powered from
one supply). The 5 volts needs to be very little to power these,
remember the size battery they were built to use....

Harvey

>
>--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "snrg41" <ajxnagy@...> wrote:
>>
>> I converted a computer power supply to run my DRO and LED lighting - Supply voltages are regulated +3 +5 and +12 DC volts with a common ground. Plenty of power (400+watts), filtered (very low ripple), built in overload protection and cooling in one convenient enclosure. Works great and there are instructions on the net for converting and wiring -This is a very simple and safe conversion. Old computers are not too hard to come by and my power supply was free.
>>
>> AJ
>>
>> --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@> wrote:
>> >
>> > I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks ( http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
>> > 1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?ï¿½
>> > 2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½39LED headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
>> > 3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?
>> > I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me.
>> > Thanks for any help.
>> > Mike.ï¿½
>> >
>>
>
• The main thing to be careful of with computer power supplies is that they often have a minimum load requirement. That is, you must draw a minimum current from
Message 16 of 30 , Jul 9, 2013
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The main thing to be careful of with computer power supplies is that they often have a minimum load requirement. That is, you must draw a minimum current from at least one and maybe all outputs, otherwise the behaviour is unpredictable.

Cheers

Martin

On 09/07/2013 03:48, mike kolacz wrote:
I would be grateful for any links or instructions. Did you take pic's while doing the conversion?
Thanks,
Mike.

From: snrg41 <ajxnagy@...>
To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 4:03 PM
Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.

I converted a computer power supply to run my DRO and LED lighting - Supply voltages are regulated +3 +5 and +12 DC volts with a common ground. Plenty of power (400+watts), filtered (very low ripple), built in overload protection and cooling in one convenient enclosure. Works great and there are instructions on the net for converting and wiring -This is a very simple and safe conversion. Old computers are not too hard to come by and my power supply was free.

AJ

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...> wrote:
>
> I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks ( http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
> 1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?
> 2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm                39LED headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
> 3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?
> I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me.
> Thanks for any help.
> Mike.
>

• all those suggestions and none is about how to connect the line power to the DRO without any noticeable ripple, bulk and simplicity ya-know....elegant
Message 17 of 30 , Jul 9, 2013
• 0 Attachment
all those suggestions and none is about how to connect the line power to the DRO without any noticeable ripple, bulk and simplicity ya-know....elegant solution...I would love to see that happening...pictures please, please.

On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 9:08 PM, Harvey White wrote:

On Mon, 08 Jul 2013 22:40:37 -0000, you wrote:

>There's no need to design and build a power supply from scratch - either repurpose a PC power supply or buy a new one with the exact inputs and output voltages you need. This one from Jameco is only \$25 and has +5V(4A) and +12V(2A) outputs.
>http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_323460_-1
>

Wall warts at thrift stores are pretty cheap, and a voltmeter brought
along with a bit of testing could save you serious money.

You need 12 volts at probably 1.6 to 2 amps (if both are powered from
one supply). The 5 volts needs to be very little to power these,
remember the size battery they were built to use....

Harvey

>
>--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "snrg41" <ajxnagy@...> wrote:
>>
>> I converted a computer power supply to run my DRO and LED lighting - Supply voltages are regulated +3 +5 and +12 DC volts with a common ground. Plenty of power (400+watts), filtered (very low ripple), built in overload protection and cooling in one convenient enclosure. Works great and there are instructions on the net for converting and wiring -This is a very simple and safe conversion. Old computers are not too hard to come by and my power supply was free.
>>
>> AJ
>>
>> --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@> wrote:
>> >
>> > I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks ( http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
>> > 1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?ï¿½
>> > 2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½39LED headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
>> > 3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits and where to get components?
>> > I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of knowledge concerns me.
>> > Thanks for any help.
>> > Mike.ï¿½
>> >
>>
>

• ... I don t have any. First point: I thought that you already had the construction details of how to hook up the DRO with an external power supply, and the
Message 18 of 30 , Jul 9, 2013
• 0 Attachment
On Tue, 9 Jul 2013 05:51:04 -0700, you wrote:

>all those suggestions and none is about how to connect the line power to
>the DRO without any noticeable ripple, bulk and simplicity
>ya-know....elegant solution...I would love to see that happening...pictures

I don't have any.

First point: I thought that you already had the construction details
of how to hook up the DRO with an external power supply, and the
question was how to find a proper power supply.

Second point: The most elegant solution would be a 12 volt supply, a
wall wart is cheapest and most available when gotten used. A battery
(1 1/2 volts) is most likely suitable for the DRO itself, and a small
shottkey diode wired in series would take the voltage down to 1.3
volts.

If I were to do it, I'd just check the supply polarities on the DRO's,
see where the ground is (+ or -) and then run the data up to some
comparators, then to a microprocessor which will drive a display.

That would be my elegant solution for the whole thing.

I'd just use some batteries for the DRO's, bearing in mind the design
I suspect you already have (link please), and find an old wall wart
after first measuring the power requirements of the ring lights.

Harvey

>
>
>On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 9:08 PM, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
>
>> **
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 08 Jul 2013 22:40:37 -0000, you wrote:
>>
>> >There's no need to design and build a power supply from scratch - either
>> repurpose a PC power supply or buy a new one with the exact inputs and
>> output voltages you need. This one from Jameco is only \$25 and has +5V(4A)
>> and +12V(2A) outputs.
>> >
>> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_323460_-1
>> >
>>
>> Wall warts at thrift stores are pretty cheap, and a voltmeter brought
>> along with a bit of testing could save you serious money.
>>
>> You need 12 volts at probably 1.6 to 2 amps (if both are powered from
>> one supply). The 5 volts needs to be very little to power these,
>> remember the size battery they were built to use....
>>
>> Harvey
>>
>>
>> >
>> >--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "snrg41" <ajxnagy@...> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I converted a computer power supply to run my DRO and LED lighting -
>> Supply voltages are regulated +3 +5 and +12 DC volts with a common ground.
>> Plenty of power (400+watts), filtered (very low ripple), built in overload
>> protection and cooling in one convenient enclosure. Works great and there
>> are instructions on the net for converting and wiring -This is a very
>> simple and safe conversion. Old computers are not too hard to come by and
>> my power supply was free.
>> >>
>> >> AJ
>> >>
>> >> --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@>
>> wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my
>> lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks (
>> http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage
>> reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
>> >> > 1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?ï¿½
>> >> > 2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light
>> rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½39LED
>> headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
>> >> > 3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits
>> and where to get components?
>> >> > I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of
>> knowledge concerns me.
>> >> > Thanks for any help.
>> >> > Mike.ï¿½
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >
>>
>>
>>
• Mistaken identity? I am the original poster of this thread and I do indeed have the construction details, however the many posts in response have shown me how
Message 19 of 30 , Jul 9, 2013
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Mistaken identity? I am the original poster of this thread and I do indeed have the construction details, however the many posts in response have shown me how limited my knowledge is at this point. I am archiving all responses on this thread in order to sift through the many bits of wisdom and knowledge as I settle on a course of action. For now i'm going to hook up the lights to a wall wart and use batteries for the DRO's until I understand electronics better. I'm studying now thanks to great links provided on this thread. I truly appreciate the many different responses, thanks.
Mike

From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2013 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.

On Tue, 9 Jul 2013 05:51:04 -0700, you wrote:

>all those suggestions and none is about how to connect the line power to
>the DRO without any noticeable ripple, bulk and simplicity
>ya-know....elegant solution...I would love to see that happening...pictures

I don't have any.

First point: I thought that you already had the construction details
of how to hook up the DRO with an external power supply, and the
question was how to find a proper power supply.

Second point: The most elegant solution would be a 12 volt supply, a
wall wart is cheapest and most available when gotten used. A battery
(1 1/2 volts) is most likely suitable for the DRO itself, and a small
shottkey diode wired in series would take the voltage down to 1.3
volts.

If I were to do it, I'd just check the supply polarities on the DRO's,
see where the ground is (+ or -) and then run the data up to some
comparators, then to a microprocessor which will drive a display.

That would be my elegant solution for the whole thing.

I'd just use some batteries for the DRO's, bearing in mind the design
I suspect you already have (link please), and find an old wall wart
after first measuring the power requirements of the ring lights.

Harvey

>
>
>On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 9:08 PM, Harvey White <madyn@...> wrote:
>
>> **
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 08 Jul 2013 22:40:37 -0000, you wrote:
>>
>> >There's no need to design and build a power supply from scratch - either
>> repurpose a PC power supply or buy a new one with the exact inputs and
>> output voltages you need. This one from Jameco is only \$25 and has +5V(4A)
>> and +12V(2A) outputs.
>> >
>> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_323460_-1
>> >
>>
>> Wall warts at thrift stores are pretty cheap, and a voltmeter brought
>> along with a bit of testing could save you serious money.
>>
>> You need 12 volts at probably 1.6 to 2 amps (if both are powered from
>> one supply). The 5 volts needs to be very little to power these,
>> remember the size battery they were built to use....
>>
>> Harvey
>>
>>
>> >
>> >--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "snrg41" <ajxnagy@...> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I converted a computer power supply to run my DRO and LED lighting -
>> Supply voltages are regulated +3 +5 and +12 DC volts with a common ground.
>> Plenty of power (400+watts), filtered (very low ripple), built in overload
>> protection and cooling in one convenient enclosure. Works great and there
>> are instructions on the net for converting and wiring -This is a very
>> simple and safe conversion. Old computers are not too hard to come by and
>> my power supply was free.
>> >>
>> >> AJ
>> >>
>> >> --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@>
>> wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my
>> lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks (
>> http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a voltage
>> reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
>> >> > 1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?ï¿½
>> >> > 2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light
>> rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½ ï¿½39LED
>> headlight rings mounted around the spindle)
>> >> > 3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits
>> and where to get components?
>> >> > I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of
>> knowledge concerns me.
>> >> > Thanks for any help.
>> >> > Mike.ï¿½
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >
>>
>>
>>

• my point exactly...TOO COMPLICATED... TOO CUMBERSOME...and the result not warrant the aggravation and work. the LED though is a worthy addition with minimal
Message 20 of 30 , Jul 9, 2013
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my point exactly...TOO COMPLICATED... TOO CUMBERSOME...and the result not warrant the aggravation and work. the LED though is a worthy addition with minimal effort and vast improvment.

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Martin Brown <martin_w_brown@...> wrote:
>
> The main thing to be careful of with computer power supplies is that
> they often have a minimum load requirement. That is, you must draw a
> minimum current from at least one and maybe all outputs, otherwise the
> behaviour is unpredictable.
>
> Cheers
>
> Martin
>
>
> On 09/07/2013 03:48, mike kolacz wrote:
> > I would be grateful for any links or instructions. Did you take pic's
> > while doing the conversion?
> > Thanks,
> > Mike.
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > *From:* snrg41 <ajxnagy@...>
> > *To:* GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
> > *Sent:* Monday, July 8, 2013 4:03 PM
> > *Subject:* [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.
> >
> > I converted a computer power supply to run my DRO and LED lighting -
> > Supply voltages are regulated +3 +5 and +12 DC volts with a common
> > ground. Plenty of power (400+watts), filtered (very low ripple), built
> > in overload protection and cooling in one convenient enclosure. Works
> > great and there are instructions on the net for converting and wiring
> > -This is a very simple and safe conversion. Old computers are not too
> > hard to come by and my power supply was free.
> >
> > AJ
> >
> > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:GrizHFMinimill%40yahoogroups.com>, mike kolacz
> > <mkolacz2000@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I am trying to add lighting and DRO's to my mill, and DRO's to my
> > lathe. I am using ideas from a site called Snailworks (
> > http://www.liming.org/rfmill/index.html ) where the guy builds a
> > voltage reducing circuit for his DRO's. My questions for these groups are:
> > > 1.Do the milliamps on a 12v wall transformer matter?
> > > 2.If so, will one at 600ma be enough to run five DRO's and two light
> > rings? ( the light rings are 12v 120mm 39LED headlight rings mounted
> > around the spindle)
> > > 3.Where is a good place to learn how to build these kind of circuits
> > and where to get components?
> > > I'm having fun learning what I can do, but sometimes my lack of
> > knowledge concerns me.
> > > Thanks for any help.
> > > Mike.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
• Hi Mike, I m the guy who did the website you are looking at. The DROs need 3 volts. There is a handy LD33 regulator that takes in at least 4.5 volts and
Message 21 of 30 , Jul 10, 2013
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Hi Mike,

I'm "the guy" who did the website you are looking at.

The DROs need 3 volts. There is a handy LD33 regulator that takes in at least 4.5 volts and puts out that voltage, so with 12v that leaves lots of headroom for the dropout voltage, which is good around machines with large motors being switched on and off.

I had a 12 v supply for the lights, so I used that, although in the website description I mentioned that wall warts are very iffy about their output, most have poor filters on them because filters need physical space to create the capacitance, so you can either get an honest 12v regulated supply, or look around for a better wall wart like I did.

If you've got a decent 12 V, you shouldn't need a separate one for the DRO's. Use a larger filter cap (something like a 1000 uf 18v or better) across the 12v to keep it from going too low. The LD33 is a pretty sophisticated supply chip inits own right.

The power consumed by both the LD33 and the DRO is very small, so just about any wall wart should be enough, the problem is consistancy of the power.

Gary

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...> wrote:
>
> My ability definitely doesn't point there yet, but I enjoy learning new things and am not in a hurry. That said, there has been a lot of great response to my OP.
> I think I'm going to go with two power sources, one at 12V for the light rings, and one at just over 3V for the DRO's. I'll continue reading about circuitry for future projects.
> Mike.
>
• Hi Gary, Thanks for the clarification. Did you make an individual assembly for each readout or are all three on the same circuit? I think they are probably all
Message 22 of 30 , Jul 10, 2013
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Hi Gary,

Thanks for the clarification. Did you make an individual assembly for each readout or are all three on the same circuit? I think they are probably all together but I didn't see a pic' of the wires in the box. By the way, I have enjoyed your website very much. Well done sir.

Mike.

From: g_liming <g_liming@...>
To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 8:47 PM
Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.

Hi Mike,

I'm "the guy" who did the website you are looking at.

The DROs need 3 volts. There is a handy LD33 regulator that takes in at least 4.5 volts and puts out that voltage, so with 12v that leaves lots of headroom for the dropout voltage, which is good around machines with large motors being switched on and off.

I had a 12 v supply for the lights, so I used that, although in the website description I mentioned that wall warts are very iffy about their output, most have poor filters on them because filters need physical space to create the capacitance, so you can either get an honest 12v regulated supply, or look around for a better wall wart like I did.

If you've got a decent 12 V, you shouldn't need a separate one for the DRO's. Use a larger filter cap (something like a 1000 uf 18v or better) across the 12v to keep it from going too low. The LD33 is a pretty sophisticated supply chip inits own right.

The power consumed by both the LD33 and the DRO is very small, so just about any wall wart should be enough, the problem is consistancy of the power.

Gary

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...> wrote:
>

> My ability definitely doesn't point there yet, but I enjoy learning new things and am not in a hurry. That said, there has been a lot of great response to my OP.
> I think I'm going to go with two power sources, one at 12V for the light rings, and one at just over 3V for the DRO's. I'll continue reading about circuitry for future projects.
> Mike.
>

• Gary, What is your website? I would like to see your ideas. Bernie From: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Message 23 of 30 , Jul 10, 2013
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Gary,

What is your website? I would like to see your ideas.

Bernie

From: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of g_liming
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 10:48 PM
To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.

Hi Mike,

I'm "the guy" who did the website you are looking at.

The DROs need 3 volts. There is a handy LD33 regulator that takes in at least 4.5 volts and puts out that voltage, so with 12v that leaves lots of headroom for the dropout voltage, which is good around machines with large motors being switched on and off.

I had a 12 v supply for the lights, so I used that, although in the website description I mentioned that wall warts are very iffy about their output, most have poor filters on them because filters need physical space to create the capacitance, so you can either get an honest 12v regulated supply, or look around for a better wall wart like I did.

If you've got a decent 12 V, you shouldn't need a separate one for the DRO's. Use a larger filter cap (something like a 1000 uf 18v or better) across the 12v to keep it from going too low. The LD33 is a pretty sophisticated supply chip inits own right.

The power consumed by both the LD33 and the DRO is very small, so just about any wall wart should be enough, the problem is consistancy of the power.

Gary

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...> wrote:
>
> My ability definitely doesn't point there yet, but I enjoy learning new things and am not in a hurry. That said, there has been a lot of great response to my OP.
> I think I'm going to go with two power sources, one at 12V for the light rings, and one at just over 3V for the DRO's. I'll continue reading about circuitry for future projects.
> Mike.
>

• Nevermind. I just re-read the description and it clearly says Its output will go directly to the battery contacts in each display. Mike. ... From: mike
Message 24 of 30 , Jul 10, 2013
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Nevermind.
I just re-read the description and it clearly says "Its output will go directly to the battery contacts in each display."
Mike.

----- Forwarded Message -----
From: mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...>
To: "GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com" <GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.

Hi Gary,

Thanks for the clarification. Did you make an individual assembly for each readout or are all three on the same circuit? I think they are probably all together but I didn't see a pic' of the wires in the box. By the way, I have enjoyed your website very much. Well done sir.

Mike.

From: g_liming <g_liming@...>
To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 8:47 PM
Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.

Hi Mike,

I'm "the guy" who did the website you are looking at.

The DROs need 3 volts. There is a handy LD33 regulator that takes in at least 4.5 volts and puts out that voltage, so with 12v that leaves lots of headroom for the dropout voltage, which is good around machines with large motors being switched on and off.

I had a 12 v supply for the lights, so I used that, although in the website description I mentioned that wall warts are very iffy about their output, most have poor filters on them because filters need physical space to create the capacitance, so you can either get an honest 12v regulated supply, or look around for a better wall wart like I did.

If you've got a decent 12 V, you shouldn't need a separate one for the DRO's. Use a larger filter cap (something like a 1000 uf 18v or better) across the 12v to keep it from going too low. The LD33 is a pretty sophisticated supply chip inits own right.

The power consumed by both the LD33 and the DRO is very small, so just about any wall wart should be enough, the problem is consistancy of the power.

Gary

--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, mike kolacz <mkolacz2000@...> wrote:
>

> My ability definitely doesn't point there yet, but I enjoy learning new things and am not in a hurry. That said, there has been a lot of great response to my OP.
> I think I'm going to go with two power sources, one at 12V for the light rings, and one at just over 3V for the DRO's. I'll continue reading about circuitry for future projects.
> Mike.
>

• All three DRO s are powered by the same LD33. The website is www.liming.org/rfmill Thanks for the nice words, I hope it is a help to you. Gary
Message 25 of 30 , Jul 11, 2013
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All three DRO's are powered by the same LD33.

The website is www.liming.org/rfmill

Thanks for the nice words, I hope it is a help to you.

Gary
• BTW, no intention to hijack the thread (just to add to it) here is my take for the 3.3v regulated power for the iGaging display based on Snailworks RFMill
Message 26 of 30 , Sep 30, 2013
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BTW, no intention to hijack the thread (just to add to it)
here is my take for the 3.3v regulated power for the iGaging display based on Snailworks RFMill

---In grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com, <g_liming@...> wrote:

All three DRO's are powered by the same LD33.

The website is www.liming.org/rfmill

Thanks for the nice words, I hope it is a help to you.

Gary
• My \$.02: A wall wart with enough output power (amps/milliamps out) to power the LED lighting should be enough for everything, but a separate supply for the
Message 27 of 30 , Oct 4, 2013
• 0 Attachment
My \$.02: A wall wart with enough output power (amps/milliamps out) to power the LED lighting should be enough for everything, but a separate supply for the power to the DROs might be a better way to go.

If you already have a computer (or other) power supply that you know how to adapt, that would be cheapest way to go.

Here's my solution though: There are DC voltage regulator circuit boards listed on ebay that meet all of the DROs needs: filtered DC output voltage adjustable from 1.25vdc to 30vdc that operate on input from 5vdc to 40vdc. I saw a listing for one for 99 cents and another for 5 boards for \$7 or so. (Do an ebay search for DC voltage regulator.

In my opinion, unless you are doing a learning exercise, cheapest and simplest is best if it gets the job done. That said, some Chinese electronics can be hit or miss.

I am mostly a lurker and am continually frustrated and amazed that so many posters with vast knowledge and experience don't reply in a way that almost anyone can understand. And they often refer to info on the internet without including the link.

Thanks for letting me vent.

Tom C.
• Thanks for venting. So what I ve done so far is made a wiring harness that has a switch for the light and a switch for the DRO s. at this time only the light
Message 28 of 30 , Oct 4, 2013
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Thanks for venting. So what I've done so far is made a wiring harness that has a switch for the light and a switch for the DRO's. at this time only the light is connected to the harness and power supply. The DRO's are operating on batteries. I am indeed doing a lot of learning exercises and enjoying the heck out of them. I'm in the middle of a reverse tumbler mod on my lathe after making a four bolt tool holder clamp. Please keep offering \$.02 or more.
Mike Kolacz

From: tcyclist <tcyclist@...>
To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 4, 2013 1:21 PM
Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: DRO and light wiring.

My \$.02: A wall wart with enough output power (amps/milliamps out) to power the LED lighting should be enough for everything, but a separate supply for the power to the DROs might be a better way to go.

If you already have a computer (or other) power supply that you know how to adapt, that would be cheapest way to go.

Here's my solution though: There are DC voltage regulator circuit boards listed on ebay that meet all of the DROs needs: filtered DC output voltage adjustable from 1.25vdc to 30vdc that operate on input from 5vdc to 40vdc. I saw a listing for one for 99 cents and another for 5 boards for \$7 or so. (Do an ebay search for DC voltage regulator.

In my opinion, unless you are doing a learning exercise, cheapest and simplest is best if it gets the job done. That said, some Chinese electronics can be hit or miss.

I am mostly a lurker and am continually frustrated and amazed that so many posters with vast knowledge and experience don't reply in a way that almost anyone can understand. And they often refer to info on the internet without including the link.

Thanks for letting me vent.

Tom C.

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