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RE: [GrizHFMinimill] Was: Milling a wedge Now: Straightening a milling vise!

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  • gerry waclawiak
    One thing that nobody appears to have mentioned is that vice jaws are often hardened which complicates correcting them easily for most people Gerry W Leeds UK
    Message 1 of 33 , Nov 6, 2012
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      One thing that nobody appears to have mentioned is that vice jaws are often hardened which complicates correcting them easily for most people


      Gerry W
      Leeds UK



      To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
      From: BWMSBLDR@...
      Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 22:48:55 -0700
      Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Was: Milling a wedge Now: Straightening a milling vise!

       
      CLevinski wrote:

      SNIP

      > So... what would you suggest I do about the top of the jaws not being
      > parallel to the base? (BTW, the ways *were *parallel to the base.)
      >
      > Many thanks,
      > Charlie

      Charlie, this is certainly a doable project but you need to be pretty
      sure of what you are doing! Confidence in your ability to perform
      precise operations is foremost! Feeling Brave? Then proceed!

      (1) First dial in your mill F/R and L/R. Your results are unlikely to be
      better that the results of this procedure so you should view it as an
      entrance exam!

      (2) Consider that the surface hardest to fix is the one you should use
      as the reference! That is the ways of the vise body upon which the
      moving jaw slides. Check it for flatness with a small straight edge
      (light under the edge) and set it on a very flat surface with the screw
      and moving jaw off on 1-2-3 blocks to check for rock or cupping. If you
      cannot pass this test then ask Chris nicely for a new vise!

      (3) Clamp the vise body bottom up on 1-2-3 blocks on the mill table and
      take a light cut off of the bottom to give you a parallel reference
      surface! Turn it over and reclamp to allow access to the ways. Square
      the recess for the fixed jaw to the table travel and take a very light
      cut on the recess, removing the minimum material possible1 this should
      leave you with a jaw recess that is square to the table and square to
      the vise ways.

      (4) Reassemble the vise screw and moving jaw without shifting your setup
      and put a square precision spacer on the ways so that you can clamp the
      moving jaw square and parallel to the fixed jaw. Take a light cut on the
      moving jaw recess leaving it at the same depth as the fixed jaw. You
      should now have a matching pair of jaw recesses of equal dept (allowing
      jaw inserts to be accurately interchanged. Finally reinstall the inserts
      such that they bottom in the recesses for height reference. Now clamp a
      square precision spacer between the jaw inserts and run a dial indicator
      across the clamping faces looking for any runout. there should be none.
      Check the tops of the inserts in the same way. Again there should be
      none! If necessary you can take a light cut across the top of the inserts!

      (5) BONUS! To radius the ends of connecting rods and the like put a
      close fitting pin in the opening. Clamp the rod in various positions
      while taking a cut on the rod at a fixed height. You should generate a
      series of flats on the rod end that can be refined with more cuts to the
      point that a swipe with a fine file turns it into a radius of constant
      thickness above the pin!

      Bill in Boulder

    • paul_in_pittsfield
      My shop floor is covered with rubber horse stall mats from Tractor Supply Company (#2219003). No holes to fill with swarf. They also give enough that chips
      Message 33 of 33 , Nov 8, 2012
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        My shop floor is covered with rubber horse stall mats from Tractor Supply Company (#2219003). No holes to fill with swarf. They also "give" enough that chips don't imbed in my shoe soles. Relatively cheap at $42.99 for a 4x6 foot mat.

        Paul in Pittsfield
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