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Re: New LMS mill arrived today!

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  • wattcody@rocketmail.com
    Thanks for the info John, I started laying out the parts for my motor brackets with my calipers. Its working good for now. once I get the motors on and things
    Message 1 of 12 , Sep 29, 2012
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      Thanks for the info John, I started laying out the parts for my motor brackets with my calipers. Its working good for now. once I get the motors on and things tuned up I can tell the stubburn thing G0 X1.275 ! HA! take that you odd ball dial, o wait your not on the mill anymore lol.

      ~Dam it, I'm smarter than a piece of metal~

      --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, SirJohnOfYork <steelchipper@...> wrote:
      >
      > I have the old style X2 (HF 44991) mini-mill with the 16 tpi, 62.5
      > thou per turn hand wheels as well.
      >
      > Here is what you do - Plan all your own projects so everything is
      > measurable down to 1/16" of an inch. Then everything is just how many
      > full turns you need to go from one spot to the next. :-)
      >
      > 1 inch = 16 full turns. If you need to go by 1/32"'s then you go by
      > half turns. Very simple. Until you need to go by thousandths. Then you
      > will become very proficient at repeatedly re-zeroing the dials as
      > needed. Watch your old style measurement strip on the front of the table
      > for the x axis, but the y axis requires you to never lose track of where
      > you are. See how simple that is? :-)
      >
      > If you can generally do your own projects to whatever sizes you wish,
      > then having everything pan out by 1/16"'s is actually pretty easy. I
      > know I have complained about those weird 1/16" per turn dials for the
      > 16tpi feedscrews too. You can get used to anything after awhile though.
      > Some of us don't have DRO's and do just fine as well without them
      > either, although I certainly wouldn't mind having them.
      >
      > Its all in the mindset - if you often work by 1/16"'s then it is very
      > easy to count hand wheel turns. Otherwise, keep extra careful track and
      > re-zero the dials as needed. Yes, it is more room for error but then
      > again you can get used to it. Keep a notebook by the machine to mark
      > turns and such so you don't lose track of where you are so easily. Old
      > timers worked this way forever til the computer age came along.
      >
      > Wait til you get a rotary table & dividing plates. Woo hoo! :-)
      >
      > Go here and read up on lapping the gibs:
      > http://www.mini-lathe.com/Lapping/Lapping.htm
      > and look closely for rough machining marks on the dovetails and other
      > sliding surfaces. That should smooth things up pretty well.
      >
      > Cheers,
      > John Z.
      >
      > On 9/28/2012 1:47 AM, wattcody@... wrote:
      > >
      > > Well my new LMS mill arrived today, I drove to portland to pick it up.
      > >
      > > Got it home and it is so quiet with the belt drive! you can hear the
      > > cutter over the motor for sure.
      > >
      > > So after setting it up and doing a little tramming i decided that I
      > > need to make a better holder for my test indicator =) The little mill
      > > is pretty impressive. It is a little rough to turn the handles
      > > definetly has some resistance with the gibs adjusted so they have no
      > > play. One thing that really erks me though is the crazy dials on the
      > > stinkin thing OMG what were they thinking? it's like .0625 per full
      > > turn? and it has a 1/2 turn marked right before zero. Man talk about
      > > confusing I can't wait to get the parts cut and mount my stepper
      > > motors on it, those dials should go in the garbage! lol
      > >
      > > It seems to have about 3-5 thou of backlash (depending how far into
      > > one direction you went?) a little strange. I am going to have to make
      > > some new fixtures to hold my dial indicator and test indicator before
      > > I can fully know what is up with it. Over all though the 5.1" or so of
      > > Y travel and 11.8" of X travel is really nice but turning the handle
      > > 11.8" will give you a workout!
      > >
      > > I just downloaded the cheat sheet for the odball leadscrew
      > > configuration so maybe that will get me setup untill i finish the CNC
      > > conversion.
      > >
      > > So is it supposed to be so tough to turn the handwheels? I plan to
      > > tare it down and get all the shipping oil stuff off it as there is a
      > > little bit of grit and grime on it and I don't want the abrasives in
      > > the ways. Any tips or hints are greatly appreciated. I would like to
      > > get a little less resistance If i can so the steppers dont have to
      > > work so hard although they may be just fine.
      > >
      > >
      >
    • arved_grass
      I still contend that once you convert to DRO - even the iGaging scales with their own readout, the threading of the leadscrew becomes immaterial. Even though I
      Message 2 of 12 , Oct 4, 2012
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        I still contend that once you convert to DRO - even the iGaging scales with their own readout, the threading of the leadscrew becomes immaterial.

        Even though I have a Micromark Mini-Mill (with the 20 TPI leadscrews), once I added the Shumatech DRO-550 with iGaging scales, I don't pay any attention to handwheel turns.

        Warmest regards,

        Arved Grass
        Fleming Island, Florida

        --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR@...> wrote:
        >
        > A 16 TPI lead screw is really old school! Chalk marks on the crank hub
        > and everything! My AA 109 lathe has the same threads and is equally
        > inconvenient! That might interchange with a 1.5 MM pitch screw which
        > isn't much better! 20 tpi would give you .050"/rev which is a lot
        > better! All of which is moot as .0625"/rev is what you have got!
        > Bill in Boulder
        >
      • wattcody@rocketmail.com
        Good idea on the lock nuts ill think on that one. I tore the mill down and polished the ways, adjusted the nuts and gibs. She is smoothe as silk mow. My Y axis
        Message 3 of 12 , Oct 5, 2012
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          Good idea on the lock nuts ill think on that one. I tore the mill down and polished the ways, adjusted the nuts and gibs. She is smoothe as silk mow. My Y axis locked up so i had to take it apart and i found a bur on the lead screw where it goes through the hole just before the hand crank. Got it polished out and shes good again.

          Thanks for all the comments guys. Very helpful.

          Cody

          --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Stephen Castello <zootzoot@...> wrote:
          >
          > On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 05:47:00 -0000, "wattcody@..."
          > <wattcody@...> had a flock of green cheek conures squawk
          > out:
          >
          > >> So is it supposed to be so tough to turn the handwheels? I plan to tare it down and get all the shipping oil stuff off it as there is a little bit of grit and grime on it and I don't want the abrasives in the ways. Any tips or hints are greatly appreciated. I would like to get a little less resistance If i can so the steppers dont have to work so hard although they may be just fine.
          >
          > Replace the double nuts on the hand wheels with a self locking nut, I
          > used the type with a nylon insert. Any hardware store should have
          > them.
          >
          > For example:
          > http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=jib3vn
          >
          > --
          >
          > Stephen
          >
          > A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking.
          >
        • a3sigma
          Cody and all, See my pdf in the files D.C. Clark stuff X2 Y axis thrust washers and locknut.pdf
          Message 4 of 12 , Oct 5, 2012
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            Cody and all,

            See my pdf in the files > D.C. Clark stuff > X2 Y axis thrust washers and locknut.pdf

            http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GrizHFMinimill/files/D.C.%20Clark%20stuff/

            I still have some extra washers, and my long standing offer is still on: send me a SASE, and I'll give you a set. Email off-line for my address.

            David Clark in Southern Maryland, USA

            --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "wattcody@..." <wattcody@...> wrote:
            >
            > Good idea on the lock nuts ill think on that one. I tore the mill down and polished the ways, adjusted the nuts and gibs. She is smoothe as silk mow. My Y axis locked up so i had to take it apart and i found a bur on the lead screw where it goes through the hole just before the hand crank. Got it polished out and shes good again.
            >
            > Thanks for all the comments guys. Very helpful.
            >
            > Cody
            >
            > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Stephen Castello <zootzoot@> wrote:
            > >
            > > On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 05:47:00 -0000, "wattcody@"
            > > <wattcody@> had a flock of green cheek conures squawk
            > > out:
            > >
            > > >> So is it supposed to be so tough to turn the handwheels? I plan to tare it down and get all the shipping oil stuff off it as there is a little bit of grit and grime on it and I don't want the abrasives in the ways. Any tips or hints are greatly appreciated. I would like to get a little less resistance If i can so the steppers dont have to work so hard although they may be just fine.
            > >
            > > Replace the double nuts on the hand wheels with a self locking nut, I
            > > used the type with a nylon insert. Any hardware store should have
            > > them.
            > >
            > > For example:
            > > http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=jib3vn
            > >
            > > --
            > >
            > > Stephen
            > >
            > > A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking.
            > >
            >
          • Robert Furmanak
            Cody, I ended up putting a real thrust bearing in my Y axis after is seized up. See:
            Message 5 of 12 , Oct 5, 2012
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              Cody,

               

                              I ended up putting a real thrust bearing in my Y axis after is seized up.  See: http://robertchristine.blogspot.com/2011/03/mini-mill-upgrade-adding-larger-table.html

               

              Regards,

               

              Robert

               

              From: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wattcody@...
              Sent: Friday, October 05, 2012 1:12 PM
              To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: New LMS mill arrived today!

               

               

              Good idea on the lock nuts ill think on that one. I tore the mill down and polished the ways, adjusted the nuts and gibs. She is smoothe as silk mow. My Y axis locked up so i had to take it apart and i found a bur on the lead screw where it goes through the hole just before the hand crank. Got it polished out and shes good again.

              Thanks for all the comments guys. Very helpful.

              Cody

              --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Stephen Castello <zootzoot@...> wrote:
              >
              > On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 05:47:00 -0000, "wattcody@..."
              > <wattcody@...> had a flock of green cheek conures squawk
              > out:
              >
              > >> So is it supposed to be so tough to turn the handwheels? I plan to tare it down and get all the shipping oil stuff off it as there is a little bit of grit and grime on it and I don't want the abrasives in the ways. Any tips or hints are greatly appreciated. I would like to get a little less resistance If i can so the steppers dont have to work so hard although they may be just fine.
              >
              > Replace the double nuts on the hand wheels with a self locking nut, I
              > used the type with a nylon insert. Any hardware store should have
              > them.
              >
              > For example:
              > http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=jib3vn
              >
              > --
              >
              > Stephen
              >
              > A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking.
              >

            • wattcody@rocketmail.com
              Wow very nice work Robert! And thats my table! Lol I have some 1/2 sealed bearings floating around somewher, i think i will add them to my spacer for my cnc
              Message 6 of 12 , Oct 5, 2012
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                Wow very nice work Robert!

                And thats my table! Lol

                I have some 1/2" sealed bearings floating around somewher, i think i will add them to my spacer for my cnc conversion.

                Thanks for the great idea.

                Cody

                --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Furmanak" <rfurmanak@...> wrote:
                >
                > Cody,
                >
                >
                >
                > I ended up putting a real thrust bearing in my Y axis after
                > is seized up. See:
                > http://robertchristine.blogspot.com/2011/03/mini-mill-upgrade-adding-larger-
                > table.html
                >
                >
                >
                > Regards,
                >
                >
                >
                > Robert
                >
                >
                >
                > From: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com]
                > On Behalf Of wattcody@...
                > Sent: Friday, October 05, 2012 1:12 PM
                > To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
                > Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: New LMS mill arrived today!
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > Good idea on the lock nuts ill think on that one. I tore the mill down and
                > polished the ways, adjusted the nuts and gibs. She is smoothe as silk mow.
                > My Y axis locked up so i had to take it apart and i found a bur on the lead
                > screw where it goes through the hole just before the hand crank. Got it
                > polished out and shes good again.
                >
                > Thanks for all the comments guys. Very helpful.
                >
                > Cody
                >
                > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
                > <mailto:GrizHFMinimill%40yahoogroups.com> , Stephen Castello <zootzoot@>
                > wrote:
                > >
                > > On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 05:47:00 -0000, "wattcody@"
                > > <wattcody@> had a flock of green cheek conures squawk
                > > out:
                > >
                > > >> So is it supposed to be so tough to turn the handwheels? I plan to tare
                > it down and get all the shipping oil stuff off it as there is a little bit
                > of grit and grime on it and I don't want the abrasives in the ways. Any tips
                > or hints are greatly appreciated. I would like to get a little less
                > resistance If i can so the steppers dont have to work so hard although they
                > may be just fine.
                > >
                > > Replace the double nuts on the hand wheels with a self locking nut, I
                > > used the type with a nylon insert. Any hardware store should have
                > > them.
                > >
                > > For example:
                > > http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=jib3vn
                > >
                > > --
                > >
                > > Stephen
                > >
                > > A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking.
                > >
                >
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