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Re: Awkwardly shaped parts

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  • drmico60
    When cutting bevels on long pieces I find it better to use a slitting tool rather than a milling tool. The forces on the workpiece are much less and tangential
    Message 1 of 5 , Jun 7, 2011
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      When cutting bevels on long pieces I find it better to use a slitting tool rather than a milling tool. The forces on the workpiece are much less and tangential to the saw so any deflection is much reduced.
      Mike

      --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "mattdbartlett" <mattdbartlett@...> wrote:
      >
      > I am trying to make a 60 degree bevel on one of the long edges of an 11x1.5x0.75" steel bar. I was playing around with ways to secure this part to the bed when ran my hand into the end mill mounted in the spindle (side note, remove cutting tools while doing setup). That cut the night short as I tended to my wounds.
      >
      > Before that I wasn't having a lot of luck. I have an SX2, so 11" is about at the limits of what I can do, and there is not a lot of table width. I am wondering if anybody has any great ideas on how to do this. I would hopefully like to do it in without re-clamping in-between.
      >
      > -Matt
      >
    • Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
      Clamping to a length of hexagonal bar is an easy way to obtain the correct presentation. Malcolm I don t suffer from insanity I enjoy it! ... From: drmico60
      Message 2 of 5 , Jun 7, 2011
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        Clamping to a length of hexagonal bar is an easy way to obtain the correct presentation.

        Malcolm

        I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!

        --- On Tue, 6/7/11, drmico60 <mikey.cox@...> wrote:

        From: drmico60 <mikey.cox@...>
        Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Awkwardly shaped parts
        To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Tuesday, June 7, 2011, 9:02 PM

         

        When cutting bevels on long pieces I find it better to use a slitting tool rather than a milling tool. The forces on the workpiece are much less and tangential to the saw so any deflection is much reduced.
        Mike

        --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "mattdbartlett" <mattdbartlett@...> wrote:
        >
        > I am trying to make a 60 degree bevel on one of the long edges of an 11x1.5x0.75" steel bar. I was playing around with ways to secure this part to the bed when ran my hand into the end mill mounted in the spindle (side note, remove cutting tools while doing setup). That cut the night short as I tended to my wounds.
        >
        > Before that I wasn't having a lot of luck. I have an SX2, so 11" is about at the limits of what I can do, and there is not a lot of table width. I am wondering if anybody has any great ideas on how to do this. I would hopefully like to do it in without re-clamping in-between.
        >
        > -Matt
        >

      • mattdbartlett
        Hmm, that is an interesting idea. I don t have any hex stock, but I have some coupling nuts. The only problem I have is how to attach the hex the part. Perhaps
        Message 3 of 5 , Jun 7, 2011
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          Hmm, that is an interesting idea. I don't have any hex stock, but I have some coupling nuts. The only problem I have is how to attach the hex the part. Perhaps I need more clamps...

          Ultimately I think I am going to end up following a variation of Bill's suggestion by cutting some small angle blocks and bolting them to the piece. If I'm going to go that far I should probably break down and replace the steel blank I have with a piece of cast iron (I'm attempting to make an angle block for scraping in dovetails).

          -Matt

          --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Malcolm Parker-Lisberg <mparkerlisberg@...> wrote:
          >
          > Clamping to a length of hexagonal bar is an easy way to obtain the correct presentation.
          >
          > Malcolm
          >
          > I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
          >
          > --- On Tue, 6/7/11, drmico60 <mikey.cox@...> wrote:
          >
          > From: drmico60 <mikey.cox@...>
          > Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Awkwardly shaped parts
          > To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
          > Date: Tuesday, June 7, 2011, 9:02 PM
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          >  
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          > When cutting bevels on long pieces I find it better to use a slitting tool rather than a milling tool. The forces on the workpiece are much less and tangential to the saw so any deflection is much reduced.
          >
          > Mike
          >
          >
          >
          > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "mattdbartlett" <mattdbartlett@> wrote:
          >
          > >
          >
          > > I am trying to make a 60 degree bevel on one of the long edges of an 11x1.5x0.75" steel bar. I was playing around with ways to secure this part to the bed when ran my hand into the end mill mounted in the spindle (side note, remove cutting tools while doing setup). That cut the night short as I tended to my wounds.
          >
          > >
          >
          > > Before that I wasn't having a lot of luck. I have an SX2, so 11" is about at the limits of what I can do, and there is not a lot of table width. I am wondering if anybody has any great ideas on how to do this. I would hopefully like to do it in without re-clamping in-between.
          >
          > >
          >
          > > -Matt
          >
          > >
          >
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