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Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Steel Lead Screw Nut

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  • Bill Williams
    ... You are correct in your material assessment. I would opt for brass myself. I would also try to find the correct tap or make one if necessary! I have
    Message 1 of 12 , Sep 7, 2010
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      blah wrote:
      > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on
      > both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic
      > machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be
      > softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut.
      > Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result
      > in a cut.

      You are correct in your material assessment. I would opt for brass
      myself. I would also try to find the correct tap or make one if
      necessary! I have recouped worn brass lead nuts by lining them with
      solder and if there is enough room it might work for you. It involves
      removing nut and screw and cleaning both thoroughly. The screw is then
      coated with soot from a candle flame while the nut is fluxed. Then the
      nut is installed on the screw in a vertical position and the lower gap
      is stopped using any means possible. The nut is heated and solder is run
      into the gap lining the nut. Oil, persuasion, and patience is then used
      to work the screw loose in the nut! My Atlas crossfeed nut was given
      this treatment and has lasted for 20 years! Bill in Boulder
    • gerry waclawiak
      Blah, you may find that the nuts are in fact cast iron. I have seen mills and lathes over the years with both brass/gunmetal and cast nuts. Cast iron is a
      Message 2 of 12 , Sep 8, 2010
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        Blah,
         
        you may find that the nuts are in fact cast iron. I have seen mills and lathes over the years with both brass/gunmetal and cast nuts.
         
        Cast iron is a fairly good material for this application as it is softer than steel and has a degree of self lubrication through the carbon content.
         
        Gerry
        Leeds UK
         

        To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
        From: BWMSBLDR@...
        Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 22:54:24 -0600
        Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Steel Lead Screw Nut

         
        blah wrote:
        > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on
        > both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic
        > machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be
        > softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut.
        > Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result
        > in a cut.

        You are correct in your material assessment. I would opt for brass
        myself. I would also try to find the correct tap or make one if
        necessary! I have recouped worn brass lead nuts by lining them with
        solder and if there is enough room it might work for you. It involves
        removing nut and screw and cleaning both thoroughly. The screw is then
        coated with soot from a candle flame while the nut is fluxed. Then the
        nut is installed on the screw in a vertical position and the lower gap
        is stopped using any means possible. The nut is heated and solder is run
        into the gap lining the nut. Oil, persuasion, and patience is then used
        to work the screw loose in the nut! My Atlas crossfeed nut was given
        this treatment and has lasted for 20 years! Bill in Boulder

      • Bob and Terrie
        Just ask Chris at LMS what it is! Bob ... From: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of gerry waclawiak Sent:
        Message 3 of 12 , Sep 8, 2010
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          Just ask Chris at LMS what it is!
           
          Bob
           
          -----Original Message-----
          From: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of gerry waclawiak
          Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 1:12 AM
          To: grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: RE: [GrizHFMinimill] Steel Lead Screw Nut

           

          Blah,
           
          you may find that the nuts are in fact cast iron. I have seen mills and lathes over the years with both brass/gunmetal and cast nuts.
           
          Cast iron is a fairly good material for this application as it is softer than steel and has a degree of self lubrication through the carbon content.
           
          Gerry
          Leeds UK
           


          To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
          From: BWMSBLDR@...
          Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 22:54:24 -0600
          Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Steel Lead Screw Nut

           
          blah wrote:
          > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on
          > both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic
          > machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be
          > softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut.
          > Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result
          > in a cut.

          You are correct in your material assessment. I would opt for brass
          myself. I would also try to find the correct tap or make one if
          necessary! I have recouped worn brass lead nuts by lining them with
          solder and if there is enough room it might work for you. It involves
          removing nut and screw and cleaning both thoroughly. The screw is then
          coated with soot from a candle flame while the nut is fluxed. Then the
          nut is installed on the screw in a vertical position and the lower gap
          is stopped using any means possible. The nut is heated and solder is run
          into the gap lining the nut. Oil, persuasion, and patience is then used
          to work the screw loose in the nut! My Atlas crossfeed nut was given
          this treatment and has lasted for 20 years! Bill in Boulder

        • pres68y
          The benefit of either cast iron or bronze (not brass) nuts is the porosity will help hold lubricant in the nut. Either that or use a material (Delrin?) that
          Message 4 of 12 , Sep 8, 2010
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            The benefit of either cast iron or bronze (not brass) nuts is the porosity will help hold lubricant in the nut.

            Either that or use a material (Delrin?) that has a low cof (i.e. slippery)

            Pres
            ----
            --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, gerry waclawiak <gerrywac@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > Blah,
            >
            >
            >
            > you may find that the nuts are in fact cast iron. I have seen mills and lathes over the years with both brass/gunmetal and cast nuts.
            >
            >
            >
            > Cast iron is a fairly good material for this application as it is softer than steel and has a degree of self lubrication through the carbon content.
            >
            >
            >
            > Gerry
            >
            > Leeds UK
            >
            >
            >
            > To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
            > From: BWMSBLDR@...
            > Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 22:54:24 -0600
            > Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Steel Lead Screw Nut
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > blah wrote:
            > > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on
            > > both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic
            > > machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be
            > > softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut.
            > > Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result
            > > in a cut.
            >
            > You are correct in your material assessment. I would opt for brass
            > myself. I would also try to find the correct tap or make one if
            > necessary! I have recouped worn brass lead nuts by lining them with
            > solder and if there is enough room it might work for you. It involves
            > removing nut and screw and cleaning both thoroughly. The screw is then
            > coated with soot from a candle flame while the nut is fluxed. Then the
            > nut is installed on the screw in a vertical position and the lower gap
            > is stopped using any means possible. The nut is heated and solder is run
            > into the gap lining the nut. Oil, persuasion, and patience is then used
            > to work the screw loose in the nut! My Atlas crossfeed nut was given
            > this treatment and has lasted for 20 years! Bill in Boulder
            >
          • David
            buy a tap
            Message 5 of 12 , Sep 8, 2010
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              buy a tap

              --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "blah" <moodyj2000@...> wrote:
              >
              > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut. Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result in a cut.
              >
              > I would like to replace the nut with brass or delrin. I see the 1/20 kits at LMS are out of stock. Does anyone have any information about cutting the internal threads of a new nut to match the stock lead screws?
              >
            • Bill Williams
              ... Well then cast iron lead nuts should be pretty self explanatory! For openers it will be hard to get the solder to stick! Bill in Boulder
              Message 6 of 12 , Sep 8, 2010
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                gerry waclawiak wrote:
                >
                >
                > Blah,
                >
                > you may find that the nuts are in fact cast iron. I have seen mills
                > and lathes over the years with both brass/gunmetal and cast nuts.
                >
                > Cast iron is a fairly good material for this application as it is
                > softer than steel and has a degree of self lubrication through the
                > carbon content.
                >
                > Gerry Leeds UK

                Well then cast iron lead nuts should be pretty self explanatory! For
                openers it will be hard to get the solder to stick! Bill in Boulder
              • kylejoiner
                If you either can t find a tap or they turn out to be expensive (some acme thread taps are quite expensive) buy another lead screw from LMS and make it into a
                Message 7 of 12 , Sep 9, 2010
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                  If you either can't find a tap or they turn out to be expensive (some acme thread taps are quite expensive) buy another lead screw from LMS and make it into a tap by notching out the teeth. This would work pretty well on a material like delrin and probably as well on brass. You could also case harden the screw with some Kasenit if it needs to be harder.

                  Kyle

                  --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "blah" <moodyj2000@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut. Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result in a cut.
                  >
                  > I would like to replace the nut with brass or delrin. I see the 1/20 kits at LMS are out of stock. Does anyone have any information about cutting the internal threads of a new nut to match the stock lead screws?
                  >
                • gerry waclawiak
                  The feed screw on the majority of the mini-mills are nothing special like Acme just ordinary left hand metric threads and taps should be readily available at
                  Message 8 of 12 , Sep 9, 2010
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                    The feed screw on the majority of the mini-mills are nothing special like Acme just ordinary left hand metric threads and taps should be readily available at reasonable cost from a metric stockist although they are probably harder to find in the US compared to here in the UK.
                     
                    Your nut is likely cast iton rather than steel and any roughness should disappear. as the softer nut beds in to the steel feed screw.
                     
                    Trying to harden the screw would run the risk of distortion and I dont see what the benefit would be worth the time and effort involved.
                     
                    The stock partsd are readily available and relatively cheap
                     
                    Gerry
                    Leeds UK
                     

                     

                    To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
                    From: kylejoiner@...
                    Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:13:09 +0000
                    Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Steel Lead Screw Nut

                     
                    If you either can't find a tap or they turn out to be expensive (some acme thread taps are quite expensive) buy another lead screw from LMS and make it into a tap by notching out the teeth. This would work pretty well on a material like delrin and probably as well on brass. You could also case harden the screw with some Kasenit if it needs to be harder.

                    Kyle

                    --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "blah" <moodyj2000@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut. Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result in a cut.
                    >
                    > I would like to replace the nut with brass or delrin. I see the 1/20 kits at LMS are out of stock. Does anyone have any information about cutting the internal threads of a new nut to match the stock lead screws?
                    >


                  • Bill Williams
                    ... Kyle, I have remade a cross feed screw nut for a small shaper by the method of cutting flutes in an unworn section of the old screw and hardening it with
                    Message 9 of 12 , Sep 9, 2010
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                      kylejoiner wrote:
                      > If you either can't find a tap or they turn out to be expensive (some
                      > acme thread taps are quite expensive) buy another lead screw from LMS
                      > and make it into a tap by notching out the teeth. This would work
                      > pretty well on a material like delrin and probably as well on brass.
                      > You could also case harden the screw with some Kasenit if it needs to
                      > be harder.
                      >
                      > Kyle

                      Kyle, I have remade a cross feed screw nut for a small shaper
                      by the method of cutting flutes in an unworn section of the old screw
                      and hardening it with Casenite. Worked well. Bill in Boulder
                    • David
                      Victor Supply out of Brooklyn N.Y. probably stocks every metric tap that is available in the UK
                      Message 10 of 12 , Sep 9, 2010
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                        Victor Supply out of Brooklyn N.Y. probably stocks every metric tap that is available in the UK

                        --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, gerry waclawiak <gerrywac@...> wrote:
                        >
                        >
                        > The feed screw on the majority of the mini-mills are nothing special like Acme just ordinary left hand metric threads and taps should be readily available at reasonable cost from a metric stockist although they are probably harder to find in the US compared to here in the UK.
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > Your nut is likely cast iton rather than steel and any roughness should disappear. as the softer nut beds in to the steel feed screw.
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > Trying to harden the screw would run the risk of distortion and I dont see what the benefit would be worth the time and effort involved.
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > The stock partsd are readily available and relatively cheap
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > Gerry
                        >
                        > Leeds UK
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
                        > From: kylejoiner@...
                        > Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:13:09 +0000
                        > Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Steel Lead Screw Nut
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > If you either can't find a tap or they turn out to be expensive (some acme thread taps are quite expensive) buy another lead screw from LMS and make it into a tap by notching out the teeth. This would work pretty well on a material like delrin and probably as well on brass. You could also case harden the screw with some Kasenit if it needs to be harder.
                        >
                        > Kyle
                        >
                        > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "blah" <moodyj2000@> wrote:
                        > >
                        > > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut. Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result in a cut.
                        > >
                        > > I would like to replace the nut with brass or delrin. I see the 1/20 kits at LMS are out of stock. Does anyone have any information about cutting the internal threads of a new nut to match the stock lead screws?
                        > >
                        >
                      • blah
                        Thanks everyone for the feedback. For now I am going to live with them until I either CNC this mill or simply buy a second set from LMS. As much as I like
                        Message 11 of 12 , Sep 9, 2010
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                          Thanks everyone for the feedback. For now I am going to live with them until I either CNC this mill or simply buy a second set from LMS. As much as I like the Delrin and new feedscrew option I cannot justify this cost at this time. So cast iron it is for now.

                          Jason

                          --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "David" <superdave257@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > Victor Supply out of Brooklyn N.Y. probably stocks every metric tap that is available in the UK
                          >
                          > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, gerry waclawiak <gerrywac@> wrote:
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > The feed screw on the majority of the mini-mills are nothing special like Acme just ordinary left hand metric threads and taps should be readily available at reasonable cost from a metric stockist although they are probably harder to find in the US compared to here in the UK.
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > Your nut is likely cast iton rather than steel and any roughness should disappear. as the softer nut beds in to the steel feed screw.
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > Trying to harden the screw would run the risk of distortion and I dont see what the benefit would be worth the time and effort involved.
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > The stock partsd are readily available and relatively cheap
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > Gerry
                          > >
                          > > Leeds UK
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
                          > > From: kylejoiner@
                          > > Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:13:09 +0000
                          > > Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Steel Lead Screw Nut
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > If you either can't find a tap or they turn out to be expensive (some acme thread taps are quite expensive) buy another lead screw from LMS and make it into a tap by notching out the teeth. This would work pretty well on a material like delrin and probably as well on brass. You could also case harden the screw with some Kasenit if it needs to be harder.
                          > >
                          > > Kyle
                          > >
                          > > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "blah" <moodyj2000@> wrote:
                          > > >
                          > > > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut. Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result in a cut.
                          > > >
                          > > > I would like to replace the nut with brass or delrin. I see the 1/20 kits at LMS are out of stock. Does anyone have any information about cutting the internal threads of a new nut to match the stock lead screws?
                          > > >
                          > >
                          >
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