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Steel Lead Screw Nut

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  • blah
    My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on both the x and y axis. First, I don t like it because basic machinery rules dictates that
    Message 1 of 12 , Sep 7, 2010
      My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut. Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result in a cut.

      I would like to replace the nut with brass or delrin. I see the 1/20 kits at LMS are out of stock. Does anyone have any information about cutting the internal threads of a new nut to match the stock lead screws?
    • Bill Williams
      ... You are correct in your material assessment. I would opt for brass myself. I would also try to find the correct tap or make one if necessary! I have
      Message 2 of 12 , Sep 7, 2010
        blah wrote:
        > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on
        > both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic
        > machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be
        > softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut.
        > Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result
        > in a cut.

        You are correct in your material assessment. I would opt for brass
        myself. I would also try to find the correct tap or make one if
        necessary! I have recouped worn brass lead nuts by lining them with
        solder and if there is enough room it might work for you. It involves
        removing nut and screw and cleaning both thoroughly. The screw is then
        coated with soot from a candle flame while the nut is fluxed. Then the
        nut is installed on the screw in a vertical position and the lower gap
        is stopped using any means possible. The nut is heated and solder is run
        into the gap lining the nut. Oil, persuasion, and patience is then used
        to work the screw loose in the nut! My Atlas crossfeed nut was given
        this treatment and has lasted for 20 years! Bill in Boulder
      • gerry waclawiak
        Blah, you may find that the nuts are in fact cast iron. I have seen mills and lathes over the years with both brass/gunmetal and cast nuts. Cast iron is a
        Message 3 of 12 , Sep 8, 2010
          Blah,
           
          you may find that the nuts are in fact cast iron. I have seen mills and lathes over the years with both brass/gunmetal and cast nuts.
           
          Cast iron is a fairly good material for this application as it is softer than steel and has a degree of self lubrication through the carbon content.
           
          Gerry
          Leeds UK
           

          To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
          From: BWMSBLDR@...
          Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 22:54:24 -0600
          Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Steel Lead Screw Nut

           
          blah wrote:
          > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on
          > both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic
          > machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be
          > softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut.
          > Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result
          > in a cut.

          You are correct in your material assessment. I would opt for brass
          myself. I would also try to find the correct tap or make one if
          necessary! I have recouped worn brass lead nuts by lining them with
          solder and if there is enough room it might work for you. It involves
          removing nut and screw and cleaning both thoroughly. The screw is then
          coated with soot from a candle flame while the nut is fluxed. Then the
          nut is installed on the screw in a vertical position and the lower gap
          is stopped using any means possible. The nut is heated and solder is run
          into the gap lining the nut. Oil, persuasion, and patience is then used
          to work the screw loose in the nut! My Atlas crossfeed nut was given
          this treatment and has lasted for 20 years! Bill in Boulder

        • Bob and Terrie
          Just ask Chris at LMS what it is! Bob ... From: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of gerry waclawiak Sent:
          Message 4 of 12 , Sep 8, 2010
            Just ask Chris at LMS what it is!
             
            Bob
             
            -----Original Message-----
            From: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of gerry waclawiak
            Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 1:12 AM
            To: grizhfminimill@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: RE: [GrizHFMinimill] Steel Lead Screw Nut

             

            Blah,
             
            you may find that the nuts are in fact cast iron. I have seen mills and lathes over the years with both brass/gunmetal and cast nuts.
             
            Cast iron is a fairly good material for this application as it is softer than steel and has a degree of self lubrication through the carbon content.
             
            Gerry
            Leeds UK
             


            To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
            From: BWMSBLDR@...
            Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 22:54:24 -0600
            Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Steel Lead Screw Nut

             
            blah wrote:
            > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on
            > both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic
            > machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be
            > softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut.
            > Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result
            > in a cut.

            You are correct in your material assessment. I would opt for brass
            myself. I would also try to find the correct tap or make one if
            necessary! I have recouped worn brass lead nuts by lining them with
            solder and if there is enough room it might work for you. It involves
            removing nut and screw and cleaning both thoroughly. The screw is then
            coated with soot from a candle flame while the nut is fluxed. Then the
            nut is installed on the screw in a vertical position and the lower gap
            is stopped using any means possible. The nut is heated and solder is run
            into the gap lining the nut. Oil, persuasion, and patience is then used
            to work the screw loose in the nut! My Atlas crossfeed nut was given
            this treatment and has lasted for 20 years! Bill in Boulder

          • pres68y
            The benefit of either cast iron or bronze (not brass) nuts is the porosity will help hold lubricant in the nut. Either that or use a material (Delrin?) that
            Message 5 of 12 , Sep 8, 2010
              The benefit of either cast iron or bronze (not brass) nuts is the porosity will help hold lubricant in the nut.

              Either that or use a material (Delrin?) that has a low cof (i.e. slippery)

              Pres
              ----
              --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, gerry waclawiak <gerrywac@...> wrote:
              >
              >
              > Blah,
              >
              >
              >
              > you may find that the nuts are in fact cast iron. I have seen mills and lathes over the years with both brass/gunmetal and cast nuts.
              >
              >
              >
              > Cast iron is a fairly good material for this application as it is softer than steel and has a degree of self lubrication through the carbon content.
              >
              >
              >
              > Gerry
              >
              > Leeds UK
              >
              >
              >
              > To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
              > From: BWMSBLDR@...
              > Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 22:54:24 -0600
              > Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Steel Lead Screw Nut
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > blah wrote:
              > > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on
              > > both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic
              > > machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be
              > > softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut.
              > > Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result
              > > in a cut.
              >
              > You are correct in your material assessment. I would opt for brass
              > myself. I would also try to find the correct tap or make one if
              > necessary! I have recouped worn brass lead nuts by lining them with
              > solder and if there is enough room it might work for you. It involves
              > removing nut and screw and cleaning both thoroughly. The screw is then
              > coated with soot from a candle flame while the nut is fluxed. Then the
              > nut is installed on the screw in a vertical position and the lower gap
              > is stopped using any means possible. The nut is heated and solder is run
              > into the gap lining the nut. Oil, persuasion, and patience is then used
              > to work the screw loose in the nut! My Atlas crossfeed nut was given
              > this treatment and has lasted for 20 years! Bill in Boulder
              >
            • David
              buy a tap
              Message 6 of 12 , Sep 8, 2010
                buy a tap

                --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "blah" <moodyj2000@...> wrote:
                >
                > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut. Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result in a cut.
                >
                > I would like to replace the nut with brass or delrin. I see the 1/20 kits at LMS are out of stock. Does anyone have any information about cutting the internal threads of a new nut to match the stock lead screws?
                >
              • Bill Williams
                ... Well then cast iron lead nuts should be pretty self explanatory! For openers it will be hard to get the solder to stick! Bill in Boulder
                Message 7 of 12 , Sep 8, 2010
                  gerry waclawiak wrote:
                  >
                  >
                  > Blah,
                  >
                  > you may find that the nuts are in fact cast iron. I have seen mills
                  > and lathes over the years with both brass/gunmetal and cast nuts.
                  >
                  > Cast iron is a fairly good material for this application as it is
                  > softer than steel and has a degree of self lubrication through the
                  > carbon content.
                  >
                  > Gerry Leeds UK

                  Well then cast iron lead nuts should be pretty self explanatory! For
                  openers it will be hard to get the solder to stick! Bill in Boulder
                • kylejoiner
                  If you either can t find a tap or they turn out to be expensive (some acme thread taps are quite expensive) buy another lead screw from LMS and make it into a
                  Message 8 of 12 , Sep 9, 2010
                    If you either can't find a tap or they turn out to be expensive (some acme thread taps are quite expensive) buy another lead screw from LMS and make it into a tap by notching out the teeth. This would work pretty well on a material like delrin and probably as well on brass. You could also case harden the screw with some Kasenit if it needs to be harder.

                    Kyle

                    --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "blah" <moodyj2000@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut. Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result in a cut.
                    >
                    > I would like to replace the nut with brass or delrin. I see the 1/20 kits at LMS are out of stock. Does anyone have any information about cutting the internal threads of a new nut to match the stock lead screws?
                    >
                  • gerry waclawiak
                    The feed screw on the majority of the mini-mills are nothing special like Acme just ordinary left hand metric threads and taps should be readily available at
                    Message 9 of 12 , Sep 9, 2010
                      The feed screw on the majority of the mini-mills are nothing special like Acme just ordinary left hand metric threads and taps should be readily available at reasonable cost from a metric stockist although they are probably harder to find in the US compared to here in the UK.
                       
                      Your nut is likely cast iton rather than steel and any roughness should disappear. as the softer nut beds in to the steel feed screw.
                       
                      Trying to harden the screw would run the risk of distortion and I dont see what the benefit would be worth the time and effort involved.
                       
                      The stock partsd are readily available and relatively cheap
                       
                      Gerry
                      Leeds UK
                       

                       

                      To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
                      From: kylejoiner@...
                      Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:13:09 +0000
                      Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Steel Lead Screw Nut

                       
                      If you either can't find a tap or they turn out to be expensive (some acme thread taps are quite expensive) buy another lead screw from LMS and make it into a tap by notching out the teeth. This would work pretty well on a material like delrin and probably as well on brass. You could also case harden the screw with some Kasenit if it needs to be harder.

                      Kyle

                      --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "blah" <moodyj2000@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut. Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result in a cut.
                      >
                      > I would like to replace the nut with brass or delrin. I see the 1/20 kits at LMS are out of stock. Does anyone have any information about cutting the internal threads of a new nut to match the stock lead screws?
                      >


                    • Bill Williams
                      ... Kyle, I have remade a cross feed screw nut for a small shaper by the method of cutting flutes in an unworn section of the old screw and hardening it with
                      Message 10 of 12 , Sep 9, 2010
                        kylejoiner wrote:
                        > If you either can't find a tap or they turn out to be expensive (some
                        > acme thread taps are quite expensive) buy another lead screw from LMS
                        > and make it into a tap by notching out the teeth. This would work
                        > pretty well on a material like delrin and probably as well on brass.
                        > You could also case harden the screw with some Kasenit if it needs to
                        > be harder.
                        >
                        > Kyle

                        Kyle, I have remade a cross feed screw nut for a small shaper
                        by the method of cutting flutes in an unworn section of the old screw
                        and hardening it with Casenite. Worked well. Bill in Boulder
                      • David
                        Victor Supply out of Brooklyn N.Y. probably stocks every metric tap that is available in the UK
                        Message 11 of 12 , Sep 9, 2010
                          Victor Supply out of Brooklyn N.Y. probably stocks every metric tap that is available in the UK

                          --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, gerry waclawiak <gerrywac@...> wrote:
                          >
                          >
                          > The feed screw on the majority of the mini-mills are nothing special like Acme just ordinary left hand metric threads and taps should be readily available at reasonable cost from a metric stockist although they are probably harder to find in the US compared to here in the UK.
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > Your nut is likely cast iton rather than steel and any roughness should disappear. as the softer nut beds in to the steel feed screw.
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > Trying to harden the screw would run the risk of distortion and I dont see what the benefit would be worth the time and effort involved.
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > The stock partsd are readily available and relatively cheap
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > Gerry
                          >
                          > Leeds UK
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
                          > From: kylejoiner@...
                          > Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:13:09 +0000
                          > Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Steel Lead Screw Nut
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > If you either can't find a tap or they turn out to be expensive (some acme thread taps are quite expensive) buy another lead screw from LMS and make it into a tap by notching out the teeth. This would work pretty well on a material like delrin and probably as well on brass. You could also case harden the screw with some Kasenit if it needs to be harder.
                          >
                          > Kyle
                          >
                          > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "blah" <moodyj2000@> wrote:
                          > >
                          > > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut. Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result in a cut.
                          > >
                          > > I would like to replace the nut with brass or delrin. I see the 1/20 kits at LMS are out of stock. Does anyone have any information about cutting the internal threads of a new nut to match the stock lead screws?
                          > >
                          >
                        • blah
                          Thanks everyone for the feedback. For now I am going to live with them until I either CNC this mill or simply buy a second set from LMS. As much as I like
                          Message 12 of 12 , Sep 9, 2010
                            Thanks everyone for the feedback. For now I am going to live with them until I either CNC this mill or simply buy a second set from LMS. As much as I like the Delrin and new feedscrew option I cannot justify this cost at this time. So cast iron it is for now.

                            Jason

                            --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "David" <superdave257@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > Victor Supply out of Brooklyn N.Y. probably stocks every metric tap that is available in the UK
                            >
                            > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, gerry waclawiak <gerrywac@> wrote:
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > The feed screw on the majority of the mini-mills are nothing special like Acme just ordinary left hand metric threads and taps should be readily available at reasonable cost from a metric stockist although they are probably harder to find in the US compared to here in the UK.
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > Your nut is likely cast iton rather than steel and any roughness should disappear. as the softer nut beds in to the steel feed screw.
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > Trying to harden the screw would run the risk of distortion and I dont see what the benefit would be worth the time and effort involved.
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > The stock partsd are readily available and relatively cheap
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > Gerry
                            > >
                            > > Leeds UK
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
                            > > From: kylejoiner@
                            > > Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 12:13:09 +0000
                            > > Subject: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: Steel Lead Screw Nut
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > If you either can't find a tap or they turn out to be expensive (some acme thread taps are quite expensive) buy another lead screw from LMS and make it into a tap by notching out the teeth. This would work pretty well on a material like delrin and probably as well on brass. You could also case harden the screw with some Kasenit if it needs to be harder.
                            > >
                            > > Kyle
                            > >
                            > > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "blah" <moodyj2000@> wrote:
                            > > >
                            > > > My HiTorque Mini Mill from LMS came with a steel lead screw nut on both the x and y axis. First, I don't like it because basic machinery rules dictates that one of the two surfaces should be softer than the other. Second, the threads were very crudely cut. Placing a finger inside the nut and turning it will probably result in a cut.
                            > > >
                            > > > I would like to replace the nut with brass or delrin. I see the 1/20 kits at LMS are out of stock. Does anyone have any information about cutting the internal threads of a new nut to match the stock lead screws?
                            > > >
                            > >
                            >
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