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Re: Drawbar keeps loosening

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  • gunboatbay
    I use 3MT collets quite frequently in my mini-mill because they afford me the maximum Z clearance when I use a rotab & chuck. I ve never had the drawbar
    Message 1 of 30 , Aug 4, 2009
      I use 3MT collets quite frequently in my mini-mill because they afford me the maximum Z clearance when I use a rotab & chuck. I've never had the drawbar loosen, even though I don't overly tighten it. I suspect you have a problem with either the collet or the MT in your spindle. Is this a problem with all sizes of collets, or just one size? If it's all sizes, then I'd suspect a problem with your spindle taper (Dirt, swarf, scoring, etc). If it's just one size collet, you may have a defective collet. LMS is great about returning defective products. FWIW, I never did like the idea of 'whanging' on the top of my spindle to loosen any device I have in it. I fabricated a "pusher" out of cheap pipe fittings to push(pop) the device loose. If there's any interest in this, I'll be glad to post some pictures of the device.
    • upand_at_them
      Thanks for the help on this... Here s some more info: * The spindle MT is clean. Has a score inside, but it s really difficult to feel, even with my
      Message 2 of 30 , Aug 4, 2009
        Thanks for the help on this...

        Here's some more info:

        * The spindle MT is clean. Has a score inside, but it's really difficult to feel, even with my fingernail.
        * The collets and clean and no scores.
        * The 5/8" end mill (the one I'm having trouble with) slides easily into the collet, but a light snug fit.
        * I tried a 3/4" end mill last night and it was a really tight fit in the collet. In fact, I had to use a tiny screwdriver to separate the fingers a bit to get the end mill out. I machined with it last night and this evening and it stayed put, even though the drawbar did loosen.

        I know these are from LMS, but they're still made in China. Also, the original purchaser gave up machining after a year and sold them to me, so I wouldn't expect LMS to honor any warranty.

        Mike
      • firstbumper
        Message 3 of 30 , Aug 4, 2009
          --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "gunboatbay" <gunboatbay@...> wrote:
          >
          > "I'll be glad to post some pictures of the device."

          >Yes please, most interested. thanks, lennard
        • Bill Williams
          ... While this is not likely to be the problem if you had a friend with the MT#3 finishing reamer you could take a VERY light cut that would remove the score
          Message 4 of 30 , Aug 4, 2009
            upand_at_them wrote:
            > Thanks for the help on this...
            >
            > Here's some more info:
            >
            > * The spindle MT is clean. Has a score inside, but it's really
            > difficult to feel, even with my fingernail.

            While this is not likely to be the problem if you had a friend with the
            MT#3 finishing reamer you could take a VERY light cut that would remove
            the score and ensure that the taper is to standard eliminating several
            possible issues.

            > * The collets are clean and no scores. * The 5/8" end mill (the one I'm
            > having trouble with) slides easily into the collet, but a light snug
            > fit. * I tried a 3/4" end mill last night and it was a really tight
            > fit in the collet. In fact, I had to use a tiny screwdriver to
            > separate the fingers a bit to get the end mill out. I machined with
            > it last night and this evening and it stayed put, even though the
            > drawbar did loosen.
            > I know these are from LMS, but they're still made in China. Also,
            > the original purchaser gave up machining after a year and sold them
            > to me, so I wouldn't expect LMS to honor any warranty. Mike

            You might check with Chris. The worst he might do is politely tell you
            no. He might even have seen this before and have a simple answer for you.

            Bill in Boulder CO with a MT#3 reamer!
          • upand_at_them
            Yeah, but even if I knew someone with the MT#3 finishing reamer, how would I ream it...in my mini-lathe? Seems like this would be a lot of setup and my
            Message 5 of 30 , Aug 4, 2009
              Yeah, but even if I knew someone with the MT#3 finishing reamer, how would I ream it...in my mini-lathe? Seems like this would be a lot of setup and my mini-lathe is currently apart, waiting for me to fix the saddle gib strips and align the headstock.

              Mike

              --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR@...> wrote:
              > While this is not likely to be the problem if you had a friend with the
              > MT#3 finishing reamer you could take a VERY light cut that would remove
              > the score and ensure that the taper is to standard eliminating several
              > possible issues.
            • Bill Williams
              ... Dead easy on an assembled lathe! Put the reamer, thoroughly oiled with thread cutting black oil, into the headstock taper and support the back end with the
              Message 6 of 30 , Aug 4, 2009
                upand_at_them wrote:
                > Yeah, but even if I knew someone with the MT#3 finishing reamer, how
                > would I ream it...in my mini-lathe? Seems like this would be a lot
                > of setup and my mini-lathe is currently apart, waiting for me to fix
                > the saddle gib strips and align the headstock.

                Dead easy on an assembled lathe! Put the reamer, thoroughly oiled with
                thread cutting black oil, into the headstock taper and support the back
                end with the tailstock center in the center hole in the end of the
                reamer. Apply a SLIGHT pressure on the reamer while holding the reamer
                shank with a wrench and slowly rotate the headstock. Lightly and gently
                does it. The shavings in the oil should feel like heavy grease with only
                a slightly gritty feel. I have done my 12" Atlas about every 8 to 10
                years since 1967 and have probably taken of .001 to .003 overall. Easy
                and greatly increases the holding power. Bill in Boulder
              • upand_at_them
                With the mill spindle in the chuck?
                Message 7 of 30 , Aug 4, 2009
                  With the mill spindle in the chuck?

                  --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > upand_at_them wrote:
                  > > Yeah, but even if I knew someone with the MT#3 finishing reamer, how
                  > > would I ream it...in my mini-lathe? Seems like this would be a lot
                  > > of setup and my mini-lathe is currently apart, waiting for me to fix
                  > > the saddle gib strips and align the headstock.
                  >
                  > Dead easy on an assembled lathe! Put the reamer, thoroughly oiled with
                  > thread cutting black oil, into the headstock taper and support the back
                  > end with the tailstock center in the center hole in the end of the
                  > reamer. Apply a SLIGHT pressure on the reamer while holding the reamer
                  > shank with a wrench and slowly rotate the headstock. Lightly and gently
                  > does it. The shavings in the oil should feel like heavy grease with only
                  > a slightly gritty feel. I have done my 12" Atlas about every 8 to 10
                  > years since 1967 and have probably taken of .001 to .003 overall. Easy
                  > and greatly increases the holding power. Bill in Boulder
                  >
                • Bill Williams
                  ... RESET! You can hold the mill spindle in the chuck and in a steady rest or you can hold the reamer on a center in the mill table and do the turn, feed, and
                  Message 8 of 30 , Aug 4, 2009
                    upand_at_them wrote:
                    > With the mill spindle in the chuck?

                    RESET! You can hold the mill spindle in the chuck and in a steady rest
                    or you can hold the reamer on a center in the mill table and do the
                    turn, feed, and ream that way. Only issue is getting the center directly
                    on the mill axis.
                    Bill, forgetting that some mills have Morse tapers!
                  • Pete
                    Maybe these 3MT collets (http://www.littlemachineshop.com/1948) are junk? Id call Roger at Little Machine Shop. He s very fair and will let you know if
                    Message 9 of 30 , Aug 4, 2009
                      "Maybe these 3MT collets (http://www.littlemachineshop.com/1948) are
                      junk?

                      Id call Roger at Little Machine Shop. He's very fair and will let you
                      know if there's been a problem with your collets.





                      --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "upand_at_them"
                      <upand_at_them@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > I haven't tried going tighter, but right now it takes a several really
                      hard whacks with a plastic tipped hammer to get the collet out. Maybe
                      these 3MT collets (http://www.littlemachineshop.com/1948) are junk?
                      >
                      > Mike
                      >
                      > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Bill Williams BWMSBLDR@ wrote:
                      > >
                      > > upand_at_them wrote:
                      > > > My drawbar keeps loosening, which then allows the end mill to push
                      up
                      > > > when I advance the depth of cut. I might get a pass or two, but
                      it's
                      > > > really maddening to have to check this every cut and not have any
                      > > > means to judge how much I'm taking off. Is there any remedy to
                      this? Mike
                      > >
                      > > Tighter tightening? Be glad you haven't had it gradually feed down
                      into
                      > > the table! Bill in Boulder
                      > >
                      >
                    • gunboatbay
                      Mike, Sounds like you have a bad collet. For the amount they cost, I d just buy a new 5/8 collet. I bought my set from CDCOtools.com. They advertise a TIR of
                      Message 10 of 30 , Aug 5, 2009
                        Mike,
                        Sounds like you have a bad collet. For the amount they cost, I'd just buy a new 5/8 collet. I bought my set from CDCOtools.com. They advertise a TIR of 0.0006, and I've found that to be quite true. I think indvidually they're $8.00; wheras LMS sells them for 13.95.
                      • Jim E.
                        You actually have 2 potential sources for the problem: a. the collet is bad b. the 5/8 endmill isn t really 5/8 Graciously, Jim E. Lakewood, CA All Hail
                        Message 11 of 30 , Aug 5, 2009
                          You actually have 2 potential sources for the problem:
                          a. the collet is bad
                          b. the 5/8" endmill isn't really 5/8"

                          Graciously,
                          Jim E.
                          Lakewood, CA
                          All Hail Rube Goldberg!


                          upand_at_them wrote:
                          > Thanks for the help on this...
                          >
                          > Here's some more info:
                          >
                          > * The spindle MT is clean. Has a score inside, but it's really difficult to feel, even with my fingernail.
                          > * The collets and clean and no scores.
                          > * The 5/8" end mill (the one I'm having trouble with) slides easily into the collet, but a light snug fit.
                          > * I tried a 3/4" end mill last night and it was a really tight fit in the collet. In fact, I had to use a tiny screwdriver to separate the fingers a bit to get the end mill out. I machined with it last night and this evening and it stayed put, even though the drawbar did loosen.
                          >
                          > I know these are from LMS, but they're still made in China. Also, the original purchaser gave up machining after a year and sold them to me, so I wouldn't expect LMS to honor any warranty.
                          >
                          > Mike
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > ------------------------------------
                          >
                          > Yahoo! Groups Links
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                        • upand_at_them
                          I didn t realize I could buy just one collet. I ll spend the $8. I measured the end mill and it s dead on .625 . If the new collet doesn t fix it I ll make
                          Message 12 of 30 , Aug 5, 2009
                            I didn't realize I could buy just one collet. I'll spend the $8. I measured the end mill and it's dead on .625". If the new collet doesn't fix it I'll make do with the other sizes.

                            Too bad there's no collet with a set screw like an end mill holder.

                            Thanks guys,
                            Mike
                          • Scott Lindroth
                            I have the _same_ problem with my 5/8 LMS collet. I got this with the mini-mill tooling kit. My other collets are snug. Scott
                            Message 13 of 30 , Aug 22, 2009
                              I have the _same_ problem with my 5/8" LMS collet. I got this with the mini-mill tooling kit. My other collets are snug.

                              Scott


                              --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "upand_at_them" <upand_at_them@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > Thanks for the help on this...
                              >
                              > Here's some more info:
                              >
                              > * The spindle MT is clean. Has a score inside, but it's really difficult to feel, even with my fingernail.
                              > * The collets and clean and no scores.
                              > * The 5/8" end mill (the one I'm having trouble with) slides easily into the collet, but a light snug fit.
                              > * I tried a 3/4" end mill last night and it was a really tight fit in the collet. In fact, I had to use a tiny screwdriver to separate the fingers a bit to get the end mill out. I machined with it last night and this evening and it stayed put, even though the drawbar did loosen.
                              >
                              > I know these are from LMS, but they're still made in China. Also, the original purchaser gave up machining after a year and sold them to me, so I wouldn't expect LMS to honor any warranty.
                              >
                              > Mike
                              >
                            • upand_at_them
                              Hi Bill, I was thinking about this again, as the score inside the spindle taper is actually more noticeable than I first thought. If I were to get a finishing
                              Message 14 of 30 , Sep 26, 2009
                                Hi Bill,

                                I was thinking about this again, as the score inside the spindle taper is actually more noticeable than I first thought.

                                If I were to get a finishing reamer, though, how would I set it up to ream the spindle? Seems like this would have to be removed and done on a large lathe.

                                Mike

                                --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > upand_at_them wrote:
                                > > Thanks for the help on this...
                                > >
                                > > Here's some more info:
                                > >
                                > > * The spindle MT is clean. Has a score inside, but it's really
                                > > difficult to feel, even with my fingernail.
                                >
                                > While this is not likely to be the problem if you had a friend with the
                                > MT#3 finishing reamer you could take a VERY light cut that would remove
                                > the score and ensure that the taper is to standard eliminating several
                                > possible issues.
                                >
                                > > * The collets are clean and no scores. * The 5/8" end mill (the one I'm
                                > > having trouble with) slides easily into the collet, but a light snug
                                > > fit. * I tried a 3/4" end mill last night and it was a really tight
                                > > fit in the collet. In fact, I had to use a tiny screwdriver to
                                > > separate the fingers a bit to get the end mill out. I machined with
                                > > it last night and this evening and it stayed put, even though the
                                > > drawbar did loosen.
                                > > I know these are from LMS, but they're still made in China. Also,
                                > > the original purchaser gave up machining after a year and sold them
                                > > to me, so I wouldn't expect LMS to honor any warranty. Mike
                                >
                                > You might check with Chris. The worst he might do is politely tell you
                                > no. He might even have seen this before and have a simple answer for you.
                                >
                                > Bill in Boulder CO with a MT#3 reamer!
                                >
                              • Bill Williams
                                ... I do mine about every 5 to 10 years or as required by putting a center in the tailstock (properly aligned of course) and using that in the center in the
                                Message 15 of 30 , Sep 27, 2009
                                  upand_at_them wrote:
                                  > Hi Bill,
                                  >
                                  > I was thinking about this again, as the score inside the spindle
                                  > taper is actually more noticeable than I first thought.
                                  >
                                  > If I were to get a finishing reamer, though, how would I set it up to
                                  > ream the spindle? Seems like this would have to be removed and done
                                  > on a large lathe.
                                  >
                                  > Mike

                                  I do mine about every 5 to 10 years or as required by putting a center
                                  in the tailstock (properly aligned of course) and using that in the
                                  center in the end of the reamer. Lots of heavy oil on the reamer flutes
                                  and some means of rotating the spindle at an even rate. This is a good
                                  time to make a crank handle! A light feed with a slow rotation rate and
                                  the shavings in the oil should feel like heavy grease! Try to take as
                                  light a cut as possible! Examine the reamer when it is out and see which
                                  flutes are cutting an which are not. Sometime a quick rub on the front
                                  face of the non cutting teeth with a hard oilstone will encourage them
                                  to bite! Any teeth taking too much bite can be brought into line with a
                                  quick rub on the relief surface. It will take a few cuts to bring a new
                                  reamer into perfect operation. The rule for cutting is check often and
                                  quit early! Bill in Boulder
                                • upand_at_them
                                  Yeah, I don t think I could do this on the 7x14; wouldn t be enough room for the reamer plus the mill s spindle. Would be nice if there was a way to do the
                                  Message 16 of 30 , Sep 27, 2009
                                    Yeah, I don't think I could do this on the 7x14; wouldn't be enough room for the reamer plus the mill's spindle. Would be nice if there was a way to do the mill spindle in situ.

                                    Thanks, Bill (with a finishing reamer :)).

                                    Mike

                                    --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > I do mine about every 5 to 10 years or as required by putting a center
                                    > in the tailstock (properly aligned of course) and using that in the
                                    > center in the end of the reamer. Lots of heavy oil on the reamer flutes
                                    > and some means of rotating the spindle at an even rate. This is a good
                                    > time to make a crank handle! A light feed with a slow rotation rate and
                                    > the shavings in the oil should feel like heavy grease! Try to take as
                                    > light a cut as possible! Examine the reamer when it is out and see which
                                    > flutes are cutting an which are not. Sometime a quick rub on the front
                                    > face of the non cutting teeth with a hard oilstone will encourage them
                                    > to bite! Any teeth taking too much bite can be brought into line with a
                                    > quick rub on the relief surface. It will take a few cuts to bring a new
                                    > reamer into perfect operation. The rule for cutting is check often and
                                    > quit early! Bill in Boulder
                                    >
                                  • Bill Williams
                                    ... Sorry, I keep forgetting that I am on the MiniMill list! At one extreme, put it in a big box and post it to me and I will put it in a big lathe collet and
                                    Message 17 of 30 , Sep 27, 2009
                                      upand_at_them wrote:
                                      > Yeah, I don't think I could do this on the 7x14; wouldn't be enough
                                      > room for the reamer plus the mill's spindle. Would be nice if there
                                      > was a way to do the mill spindle in situ.
                                      >
                                      > Thanks, Bill (with a finishing reamer :)).
                                      >
                                      > Mike

                                      Sorry, I keep forgetting that I am on the MiniMill list! At one
                                      extreme, put it in a big box and post it to me and I will put it in a
                                      big lathe collet and steady rest and I will give it the treatment with a
                                      broken in reamer! Otherwise see if you can come up with a short center
                                      that can be bolted down on to the table! It doesn't need to be hard but
                                      perhaps turned with a short boss that will allow you to locate it X-Y
                                      directly under the spindle. (this might have other applications as well)
                                      Then you might have enough daylight to get the reamer in and out. At
                                      least let me know if you need the MT#3 and I can measure the LOA! Bill
                                    • docbahr1
                                      Bill Do you think this could be done with a properly aligned rotary table with a 4 jaw chuck. Hubert
                                      Message 18 of 30 , Sep 28, 2009
                                        Bill
                                        Do you think this could be done with a properly aligned rotary table with a 4 jaw chuck.

                                        Hubert

                                        --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        > upand_at_them wrote:
                                        > > Yeah, I don't think I could do this on the 7x14; wouldn't be enough
                                        > > room for the reamer plus the mill's spindle. Would be nice if there
                                        > > was a way to do the mill spindle in situ.
                                        > >
                                        > > Thanks, Bill (with a finishing reamer :)).
                                        > >
                                        > > Mike
                                        >
                                        > Sorry, I keep forgetting that I am on the MiniMill list! At one
                                        > extreme, put it in a big box and post it to me and I will put it in a
                                        > big lathe collet and steady rest and I will give it the treatment with a
                                        > broken in reamer! Otherwise see if you can come up with a short center
                                        > that can be bolted down on to the table! It doesn't need to be hard but
                                        > perhaps turned with a short boss that will allow you to locate it X-Y
                                        > directly under the spindle. (this might have other applications as well)
                                        > Then you might have enough daylight to get the reamer in and out. At
                                        > least let me know if you need the MT#3 and I can measure the LOA! Bill
                                        >
                                      • onebike2ride
                                        Since speaking in theoretical terms does no harm as long as someone points out why something simply wouldn t work, I ll throw in my two cents.... Why not: Take
                                        Message 19 of 30 , Sep 28, 2009
                                          Since speaking in theoretical terms does no harm as long as someone points out why something simply wouldn't work, I'll throw in my two cents....

                                          Why not: Take a block of hardwood and fasten it in some appropriate manner to the mill's table. Lock the table down so it cannot move, and drill a hole in that hardwod the same size as the shaft on the reamer. A really close snug fit. This also ensures the hole is exactly aligned with the spindle, btw.

                                          Empty the mill's spindle, place the reamer's shaft into that close fitting hole in the hardwood (so the reamer is pointing straight up), and grip it with vice-grips just above the wood so it cannot spin. Since you are only supposed to take cautious little LIGHT cuts to remove no more than than the smallest possible amount of metal that you can get away with, you could very lightly ream and check, repeat until done.

                                          Cleaning up the spindle and such afterwards would likely take more time and effort than everything else.

                                          This is just an untested idea from an ameteur so treat it like a red headed step-child until you really think it though. :-)

                                          Cheers,
                                          John Z.
                                          PS: If the reammer is too long - shorten it...!

                                          --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "docbahr1" <hab@...> wrote:
                                          >
                                          > Bill
                                          > Do you think this could be done with a properly aligned rotary table with a 4 jaw chuck.
                                          >
                                          > Hubert
                                          >
                                          > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR@> wrote:
                                          > >
                                          > > upand_at_them wrote:
                                          > > > Yeah, I don't think I could do this on the 7x14; wouldn't be enough
                                          > > > room for the reamer plus the mill's spindle. Would be nice if there
                                          > > > was a way to do the mill spindle in situ.
                                          > > >
                                          > > > Thanks, Bill (with a finishing reamer :)).
                                          > > >
                                          > > > Mike
                                          > >
                                          > > Sorry, I keep forgetting that I am on the MiniMill list! At one
                                          > > extreme, put it in a big box and post it to me and I will put it in a
                                          > > big lathe collet and steady rest and I will give it the treatment with a
                                          > > broken in reamer! Otherwise see if you can come up with a short center
                                          > > that can be bolted down on to the table! It doesn't need to be hard but
                                          > > perhaps turned with a short boss that will allow you to locate it X-Y
                                          > > directly under the spindle. (this might have other applications as well)
                                          > > Then you might have enough daylight to get the reamer in and out. At
                                          > > least let me know if you need the MT#3 and I can measure the LOA! Bill
                                          > >
                                          >
                                        • Bill Williams
                                          ... A MT#3 is 7 1/8 LOA while the #2 is 6 3/8 ! Got Daylight? Bill
                                          Message 20 of 30 , Sep 28, 2009
                                            Bill Williams wrote:
                                            > upand_at_them wrote:
                                            >> Yeah, I don't think I could do this on the 7x14; wouldn't be enough
                                            >> room for the reamer plus the mill's spindle. Would be nice if there
                                            >> was a way to do the mill spindle in situ.
                                            >>
                                            >> Thanks, Bill (with a finishing reamer :)).
                                            >>
                                            >> Mike
                                            >
                                            > Sorry, I keep forgetting that I am on the MiniMill list! At one
                                            > extreme, put it in a big box and post it to me and I will put it in a
                                            > big lathe collet and steady rest and I will give it the treatment with a
                                            > broken in reamer! Otherwise see if you can come up with a short center
                                            > that can be bolted down on to the table! It doesn't need to be hard but
                                            > perhaps turned with a short boss that will allow you to locate it X-Y
                                            > directly under the spindle. (this might have other applications as well)
                                            > Then you might have enough daylight to get the reamer in and out. At
                                            > least let me know if you need the MT#3 and I can measure the LOA! Bill

                                            A MT#3 is 7 1/8" LOA while the #2 is 6 3/8"! Got Daylight? Bill
                                          • Bill Williams
                                            ... That close fitting hole is the tall pole in the tent! Tell me how you intend to make that hole fit with a light press fit. The advantage of using the
                                            Message 21 of 30 , Sep 28, 2009
                                              onebike2ride wrote:
                                              > Since speaking in theoretical terms does no harm as long as someone
                                              > points out why something simply wouldn't work, I'll throw in my two
                                              > cents....
                                              >
                                              > Why not: Take a block of hardwood and fasten it in some appropriate
                                              > manner to the mill's table. Lock the table down so it cannot move,
                                              > and drill a hole in that hardwod the same size as the shaft on the
                                              > reamer. A really close snug fit. This also ensures the hole is
                                              > exactly aligned with the spindle, btw.

                                              That close fitting hole is the tall pole in the tent! Tell me how you
                                              intend to make that hole fit with a light press fit. The advantage of
                                              using the center is it was used to generate the reamer teeth in the
                                              first place. And a short, table mounted center has other uses,
                                              especially if it has a built in alignment ring!

                                              > Empty the mill's spindle, place the reamer's shaft into that close
                                              > fitting hole in the hardwood (so the reamer is pointing straight up),
                                              > and grip it with vice-grips just above the wood so it cannot spin.
                                              > Since you are only supposed to take cautious little LIGHT cuts to
                                              > remove no more than than the smallest possible amount of metal that
                                              > you can get away with, you could very lightly ream and check, repeat
                                              > until done.
                                              >
                                              > Cleaning up the spindle and such afterwards would likely take more
                                              > time and effort than everything else.
                                              >
                                              > This is just an untested idea from an ameteur so treat it like a red
                                              > headed step-child until you really think it though. :-)
                                              >
                                              > Cheers, John Z. PS: If the reammer is too long - shorten it...!
                                            • Bill Williams
                                              ... It hadn t entered my mind but, Yes! Turn the spindle, turning the table would take forever! Bill
                                              Message 22 of 30 , Sep 28, 2009
                                                docbahr1 wrote:
                                                > Bill
                                                > Do you think this could be done with a properly aligned rotary table with a 4 jaw chuck.
                                                >
                                                > Hubert

                                                It hadn't entered my mind but, Yes! Turn the spindle, turning the table
                                                would take forever! Bill
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