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Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: stripped drawbar

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  • Mark Wendt (Contractor)
    Hey Rick, Long time no hear! Just wanted to let you know those tapered gibs on my lathe from your design work great! Mark
    Message 1 of 11 , Jun 1, 2009
      Hey Rick,

      Long time no hear! Just wanted to let you know those
      tapered gibs on my lathe from your design work great!

      Mark

      At 08:12 PM 5/31/2009, you wrote:
      >Here is the promised URL:
      >
      ><http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty/7x10/vault/Mills/G8689-MiniMill/Projects-Mods/Drawbar/>
      >
      >Rick
      >
      >--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Kruger" <krugerr@...> wrote:
      > >
      > > Zach,
      > >
      > > I learned the removal technique you describe on Bridgeports in the 1960s
      > > and still use it today. Used it on BPs, minimills, milldrills
      > and small knee mills in
      > > mine and other's shops. I don't think the removal technique is the
      > > problem.
      > >
      > > I agree with the others that the drawbar that ships with the mill is
      > > garbage. I switched out the stock metric drawbar, chuck and chuck arbor
      > > for good quality inch dimension tools. The stock stuff had runout and
      > > other quality issues that could not abide.
      > >
      > > There was of course, no inch drawbar available at that time (Sept. 2001)
      > > for 3/8"-16, so I made my own. Used drill rod as the stock and turned,
      > > threaded and milled the hex. Good learning project.
      > >
      > > Here is a URL to the photos I posted on this. Not sure why the dates
      > > are Feb. 03, as the project was done in Sept. 01.
      > >
      > > Rick
      > >
      > > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Zachary Kuhn <zakuhn@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Being an amateur and relatively new to milling, I think I've been
      > > going
      > > > about changing between the chuck and end-mill holders in the wrong
      > > way.
      > > > I seem to have stripped the threads off the end of the draw bar. Is
      > > this
      > > > pretty common?
      > > >
      > > > I usually put the end mill holder in the taper, then thread the
      > > drawbar
      > > > into it by hand. Then I'll give about an extra 1/4 turn on the drawbar
      > > > hex head once it is seated. To remove, I back the drawbar thread off
      > > > about 1-2 full turns, then tap the top of it with a lead shot mallet
      > > > until the tool in the taper releases, then finish unthreading by hand.
      > > >
      > > > Two questions..
      > > > 1) Is this the wrong way to do it?
      > > >
      > > > 2) Now that my drawbar is stripped, is it ok to chuck it up in the
      > > lathe
      > > > and cut down part of the tall hex nut so that the bolt part will have
      > > a
      > > > deeper reach into the threaded part of my end mill holder?
      > > >
      > >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >------------------------------------
      >
      >Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
    • rick_kruger
      Mark, Good to hear the tapered gibs worked well for you. Fortunately, I ve not heard a single bad report. Hopefully that means there aren t any. Sorry to
      Message 2 of 11 , Oct 1, 2010
        Mark,

        Good to hear the tapered gibs worked well for you. Fortunately, I've not heard a single bad report. Hopefully that means there aren't any. Sorry to have not responded earlier. Obviously, I don't check in that often. But, now and then...

        Rick

        --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Wendt (Contractor)" <mark.wendt@...> wrote:
        >
        > Hey Rick,
        >
        > Long time no hear! Just wanted to let you know those
        > tapered gibs on my lathe from your design work great!
        >
        > Mark
        >
        > At 08:12 PM 5/31/2009, you wrote:
        > >Here is the promised URL:
        > >
        > ><http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty/7x10/vault/Mills/G8689-MiniMill/Projects-Mods/Drawbar/>
        > >
        > >Rick
        > >
        > >--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Kruger" <krugerr@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > Zach,
        > > >
        > > > I learned the removal technique you describe on Bridgeports in the 1960s
        > > > and still use it today. Used it on BPs, minimills, milldrills
        > > and small knee mills in
        > > > mine and other's shops. I don't think the removal technique is the
        > > > problem.
        > > >
        > > > I agree with the others that the drawbar that ships with the mill is
        > > > garbage. I switched out the stock metric drawbar, chuck and chuck arbor
        > > > for good quality inch dimension tools. The stock stuff had runout and
        > > > other quality issues that could not abide.
        > > >
        > > > There was of course, no inch drawbar available at that time (Sept. 2001)
        > > > for 3/8"-16, so I made my own. Used drill rod as the stock and turned,
        > > > threaded and milled the hex. Good learning project.
        > > >
        > > > Here is a URL to the photos I posted on this. Not sure why the dates
        > > > are Feb. 03, as the project was done in Sept. 01.
        > > >
        > > > Rick
        > > >
        > > > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Zachary Kuhn <zakuhn@> wrote:
        > > > >
        > > > > Being an amateur and relatively new to milling, I think I've been
        > > > going
        > > > > about changing between the chuck and end-mill holders in the wrong
        > > > way.
        > > > > I seem to have stripped the threads off the end of the draw bar. Is
        > > > this
        > > > > pretty common?
        > > > >
        > > > > I usually put the end mill holder in the taper, then thread the
        > > > drawbar
        > > > > into it by hand. Then I'll give about an extra 1/4 turn on the drawbar
        > > > > hex head once it is seated. To remove, I back the drawbar thread off
        > > > > about 1-2 full turns, then tap the top of it with a lead shot mallet
        > > > > until the tool in the taper releases, then finish unthreading by hand.
        > > > >
        > > > > Two questions..
        > > > > 1) Is this the wrong way to do it?
        > > > >
        > > > > 2) Now that my drawbar is stripped, is it ok to chuck it up in the
        > > > lathe
        > > > > and cut down part of the tall hex nut so that the bolt part will have
        > > > a
        > > > > deeper reach into the threaded part of my end mill holder?
        > > > >
        > > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >------------------------------------
        > >
        > >Yahoo! Groups Links
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >
      • Mark Wendt (Contractor)
        Rick, Just glad to see you re still around. ;-) Mark
        Message 3 of 11 , Oct 2, 2010
          Rick,

          Just glad to see you're still around. ;-)

          Mark

          At 12:45 AM 10/2/2010, you wrote:
          >Mark,
          >
          >Good to hear the tapered gibs worked well for you. Fortunately,
          >I've not heard a single bad report. Hopefully that means there
          >aren't any. Sorry to have not responded earlier. Obviously, I
          >don't check in that often. But, now and then...
          >
          >Rick
          >
          >--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Wendt (Contractor)"
          ><mark.wendt@...> wrote:
          > >
          > > Hey Rick,
          > >
          > > Long time no hear! Just wanted to let you know those
          > > tapered gibs on my lathe from your design work great!
          > >
          > > Mark
          > >
          > > At 08:12 PM 5/31/2009, you wrote:
          > > >Here is the promised URL:
          > > >
          > > ><http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty/7x10/vault/Mills/G8689-Mini
          > Mill/Projects-Mods/Drawbar/>
          > > >
          > > >Rick
          > > >
          > > >--- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "Rick Kruger" <krugerr@> wrote:
          > > > >
          > > > > Zach,
          > > > >
          > > > > I learned the removal technique you describe on Bridgeports
          > in the 1960s
          > > > > and still use it today. Used it on BPs, minimills, milldrills
          > > > and small knee mills in
          > > > > mine and other's shops. I don't think the removal technique is the
          > > > > problem.
          > > > >
          > > > > I agree with the others that the drawbar that ships with the mill is
          > > > > garbage. I switched out the stock metric drawbar, chuck and
          > chuck arbor
          > > > > for good quality inch dimension tools. The stock stuff had runout and
          > > > > other quality issues that could not abide.
          > > > >
          > > > > There was of course, no inch drawbar available at that time
          > (Sept. 2001)
          > > > > for 3/8"-16, so I made my own. Used drill rod as the stock and turned,
          > > > > threaded and milled the hex. Good learning project.
          > > > >
          > > > > Here is a URL to the photos I posted on this. Not sure why the dates
          > > > > are Feb. 03, as the project was done in Sept. 01.
          > > > >
          > > > > Rick
          > > > >
          > > > > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Zachary Kuhn <zakuhn@> wrote:
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Being an amateur and relatively new to milling, I think I've been
          > > > > going
          > > > > > about changing between the chuck and end-mill holders in the wrong
          > > > > way.
          > > > > > I seem to have stripped the threads off the end of the draw bar. Is
          > > > > this
          > > > > > pretty common?
          > > > > >
          > > > > > I usually put the end mill holder in the taper, then thread the
          > > > > drawbar
          > > > > > into it by hand. Then I'll give about an extra 1/4 turn on
          > the drawbar
          > > > > > hex head once it is seated. To remove, I back the drawbar thread off
          > > > > > about 1-2 full turns, then tap the top of it with a lead shot mallet
          > > > > > until the tool in the taper releases, then finish
          > unthreading by hand.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > Two questions..
          > > > > > 1) Is this the wrong way to do it?
          > > > > >
          > > > > > 2) Now that my drawbar is stripped, is it ok to chuck it up in the
          > > > > lathe
          > > > > > and cut down part of the tall hex nut so that the bolt part will have
          > > > > a
          > > > > > deeper reach into the threaded part of my end mill holder?
          > > > > >
          > > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >------------------------------------
          > > >
          > > >Yahoo! Groups Links
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >------------------------------------
          >
          >Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
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