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Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: no power!!

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  • Harvey White
    ... Good, I d remove as much as possible, but not get fanatic about it. Harvey
    Message 1 of 59 , Apr 3, 2009
      On Fri, 3 Apr 2009 15:54:00 -0400, you wrote:

      >I just had a friend lend a hand and i got all 3 out.now,do i have to remove
      >ALL old solder,or just enough to insert the new board??
      >

      Good, I'd remove as much as possible, but not get fanatic about it.

      Harvey


      >On Fri, Apr 3, 2009 at 3:35 PM, Shawn Greacen <balibalistic@...>wrote:
      >
      >> Thanks for the help guys,but im hopeless with this.i managed to chip away
      >> the broken board to get
      >> to the little prongs but i cant get the prongs out for the life of me.i
      >> tried the wire thing and the solder sticks to the wire but when i remove it
      >> the solder stays in place.i may have to order a whole new board,bummer!!
      >>
      >> plus,i only have the use of one arm,so this stuff is'nt fun.
      >>
      >> On Fri, Apr 3, 2009 at 2:20 PM, Mrs Leon Robinson <
      >> leon-robinson@...> wrote:
      >>
      >>> Shawn,
      >>>
      >>> Get some Dri-Wik, this is copper braid with flux impregnated and pressed
      >>> flat, or some fine stranded wire, and lay it on the soldered connection and
      >>> apply the soldering iron to each connection, one at a time.
      >>> The braid or fine wire will soak up most or all the solder on the
      >>> connection.
      >>> Do this on any connections that need the solder removed.
      >>>
      >>> Then CAREFULLY wiggle the pin and apply heat if necessary to loosen the
      >>> connection.
      >>> It may be necessary to repeat the dri-wik process 2 or 3 times, be VERY
      >>> CAREFUL not to overheat the PCB, if this happens the copper pad will lift
      >>> off the PCB.
      >>> Should this happen, replace the part and solder all the other connections,
      >>> then take a small piece of bare copper wire and lay on the trace and pad on
      >>> the PCB and solder down to reinforce the connection, NOTE it may be
      >>> necessary to carefully scrape a coating off the trace to get the solder to
      >>> stick.
      >>>
      >>> For some insurance, if the PCB is going to be subject to vibration, fasten
      >>> the part down with some silicone rubber. The silicone rubber can be easily
      >>> cut away in the future if any further repairs are needed.
      >>>
      >>> Leon K5JLR
      >>>
      >>> Political Correctness is a Political Disease
      >>>
      >>> --- On *Fri, 4/3/09, Shawn Greacen <balibalistic@...>* wrote:
      >>>
      >>> From: Shawn Greacen <balibalistic@...>
      >>> Subject: Re: [GrizHFMinimill] Re: no power!!
      >>> To: GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com
      >>> Date: Friday, April 3, 2009, 11:31 AM
      >>>
      >>> Ok guys,
      >>>
      >>> i have removed my board and am attempting to remove the old broken part of
      >>> the transponder.
      >>> how the heck do i get these out??i tried heating up prongs to push them
      >>> out but theres 3,so
      >>> i cant move them. someone help me with my stupidity :-)
      >>>
      >>> On Fri, Mar 27, 2009 at 9:55 AM, balibalistic <balibalistic@ gmail.com<balibalistic@...>
      >>> > wrote:
      >>>
      >>>> Well,i spoke with the seller again!
      >>>>
      >>>> he assured me that the mill worked fine just before shipping.high/ low
      >>>> gears worked,spindle spun and it was "new". so i'm fairly certain that is is
      >>>> just the transponder. i've got one on the way!!
      >>>>
      >>>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>
      >>
    • Shawn Greacen
      No,its not the drill s!! i only use chicago-latrobe and guhring drill s!! which all run fine on my big machine. when it comes to cheap drills i see your point.
      Message 59 of 59 , Apr 10, 2009
        No,its not the drill's!! i only use chicago-latrobe and guhring drill's!! which all run fine on
        my big machine. when it comes to cheap drills i see your point. but the offset is way to
        far off to be runout.

        On Fri, Apr 10, 2009 at 1:22 AM, rawadkins <rawadkins@...> wrote:


        It may be the type of drill you are using.

        All drills will wander somewhat depending on the point geometry.

        You can split the point to help reduce this problem or use a centerdrill to help guide the drill at the start.

        http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit#Center_drill_and_spotting_drill

        Also using a smaller pilot drill can help also.

        Aaron W.



        --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, Shawn Greacen <balibalistic@...> wrote:
        >
        > Could you elaborate on this?? i'm not sure how to go about doing it.
        >
        > The table is trammed to spindle with in .002", i also made a small fixture
        > and surfaced it,
        > but am still having this issue.
        >
        > On Tue, Apr 7, 2009 at 5:51 AM, Willis, Chris (UK) <
        > chris.willis@...> wrote:
        >
        > > Shawn,
        > >
        > > Shawn Greacen writes:
        > > Another thing: i trammed the mill pretty well.but when i drill into
        > > things (aluminum right now) the drill
        > > starts straight,but tends to lean with the more pressure i use. wiould i
        > > need to shim the z dovetail or something?? has anyone else noticed this??
        > >
        > > It sounds as though you may need to separately tram the head to the column.
        > > If the two are not in alignment you'd tend to see this type of problem.
        > >
        > > Chris
        > >
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