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Re: Press fit question

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  • kn592
    Thanks all, I was thinking to bore it out but just incasr if I go over I think is a good idea to use loctit. I have J-B weld does that work the samw way? The
    Message 1 of 6 , Sep 1, 2007
      Thanks all,
      I was thinking to bore it out but just incasr if I go over I think
      is a good idea to use loctit. I have J-B weld does that work the
      samw way?

      The rod is in the small 2 cycle engine so it does get hot, but I
      read J B weld can handle up 600 F. So I don't think the engine will
      get that hot.

      How about the speed that the engine roate and the force? Can
      locktit handle that?

      Kam
      --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "PK Lumber Co"
      <paulsenknudsen@...> wrote:
      >
      > When replacing a bearing that was a press fit, but has loosened
      up, in
      > addition to the mentioned lok-tite, I've peaned (sp) the metal
      around
      > the bearing with a center punch. It's always worked for me. Me? I
      > would drill the hole .005" under (expecting the result to be 2 or 3
      > thou under), chamfer it by whatever means, put a drop of
      appropriate
      > lok-tite and swirl it about (not the thread locker, the green stuff
      > for cylindrical part assembly), press it, peen it. If you can't
      afford
      > lok-tite, try crazy glue. But I would probably screw it up.
      >
      > jon
      >
      > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "spylabfu" <spylabfu@>
      wrote:
      > >
      > > On method from the books is to use a reamer after you use drill
      bit
      > > that is just smaller than the desired hole. What hole will
      result in a
      > > press fit is subject to calculation or expermentation as found
      in
      > > various handbooks. But, It could be that to make a connecting
      rod
      > > other methods are used in practice, like grinding or something,
      I
      > > dunno.
      > >
      > > Meanwhile to avoid all this, locktite type adhesives can be used
      to
      > > glue things in and that saves a lot of trouble unless it is a
      hot
      > > connecting rod.
      > >
      > > good luck
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "kn592" <kn592@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > I need to light press fit a 14 mm OD needle bearing in a
      connecting
      > > > rod. What should be ID of the rod for the bearing to fit
      snuggly?
      > > I'm
      > > > assuming I need to drill a 13 mm hole and then use a boring
      bar to
      > > > enlarge the hole?
      > > >
      > > > Thanks
      > > > Kam
      > > >
      > >
      >
    • PK Lumber Co
      Loctite is quite different from J-B Weld. The Loctite you need is a very thin liquid that wicks.
      Message 2 of 6 , Sep 1, 2007
        Loctite is quite different from J-B Weld. The Loctite you need is a
        very thin liquid that wicks.

        http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=147&layout=1.

        638 is probably best for most press fit applications. All of the high
        strength (635, 638, 680) hold really well. If you clean the surfaces
        religiously with acetone, and use 638 in a press fit, it will be a
        very strong bond.

        You might have to look at the high temperature or oil resistant (under
        general purpose) adhesives, depending on the environment. Just look at
        the specs for what you are exposing it too.



        jon







        --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "kn592" <kn592@...> wrote:
        >
        > Thanks all,
        > I was thinking to bore it out but just incasr if I go over I think
        > is a good idea to use loctit. I have J-B weld does that work the
        > samw way?
        >
        > The rod is in the small 2 cycle engine so it does get hot, but I
        > read J B weld can handle up 600 F. So I don't think the engine will
        > get that hot.
        >
        > How about the speed that the engine roate and the force? Can
        > locktit handle that?
        >
        > Kam
        > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "PK Lumber Co"
        > <paulsenknudsen@> wrote:
        > >
        > > When replacing a bearing that was a press fit, but has loosened
        > up, in
        > > addition to the mentioned lok-tite, I've peaned (sp) the metal
        > around
        > > the bearing with a center punch. It's always worked for me. Me? I
        > > would drill the hole .005" under (expecting the result to be 2 or 3
        > > thou under), chamfer it by whatever means, put a drop of
        > appropriate
        > > lok-tite and swirl it about (not the thread locker, the green stuff
        > > for cylindrical part assembly), press it, peen it. If you can't
        > afford
        > > lok-tite, try crazy glue. But I would probably screw it up.
        > >
        > > jon
        > >
        > > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "spylabfu" <spylabfu@>
        > wrote:
        > > >
        > > > On method from the books is to use a reamer after you use drill
        > bit
        > > > that is just smaller than the desired hole. What hole will
        > result in a
        > > > press fit is subject to calculation or expermentation as found
        > in
        > > > various handbooks. But, It could be that to make a connecting
        > rod
        > > > other methods are used in practice, like grinding or something,
        > I
        > > > dunno.
        > > >
        > > > Meanwhile to avoid all this, locktite type adhesives can be used
        > to
        > > > glue things in and that saves a lot of trouble unless it is a
        > hot
        > > > connecting rod.
        > > >
        > > > good luck
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > --- In GrizHFMinimill@yahoogroups.com, "kn592" <kn592@> wrote:
        > > > >
        > > > > I need to light press fit a 14 mm OD needle bearing in a
        > connecting
        > > > > rod. What should be ID of the rod for the bearing to fit
        > snuggly?
        > > > I'm
        > > > > assuming I need to drill a 13 mm hole and then use a boring
        > bar to
        > > > > enlarge the hole?
        > > > >
        > > > > Thanks
        > > > > Kam
        > > > >
        > > >
        > >
        >
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