Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Sturmey Archer SRF5 5 speed hub

Expand Messages
  • Bobbie Martin
    I m looking at building up a bike for my (adult) daughter. It s an older Moulton with 16ö wheels. It uses an 111mm OLN rear hub with rim brakes. I don t want
    Message 1 of 8 , Jan 16, 2014
    • 0 Attachment
      I'm looking at building up a bike for my (adult) daughter.
      It's an older Moulton with 16” wheels. It uses an 111mm OLN rear hub
      with rim brakes.
      I don't want to change the hub spacing. She is a casual rider and will
      not put a lot of miles on it, maybe 1000 a year at most.
      Given that, I'm looking at a Sturmey Archer SRF5 5 speed hub.
      I can get it in 111 spacing and the gearing looks work well with the 16”
      (349) wheel, with a wide (enough) range.

      Looking for suggestions or comments.
      Thanks, Bobbie Martin
    • Jeff Meredith
      I don t have long term experience with these, but in testing them for our SA shifters I noticed that they are very touchy to adjust because the spacing between
      Message 2 of 8 , Jan 16, 2014
      • 0 Attachment
        I don't have long term experience with these, but in testing them for our SA shifters I noticed that they are very touchy to adjust because the spacing between 2,3,&4 gears is very close. Their thumb shifter is probably easier to dial in because it is more precise. I can make you a very good deal on one with a disc brake mount if you're interested (only used it for a few miles under moderate loads). 

        Jeff Meredith
        BOXKARS  


        On Thu, Jan 16, 2014 at 11:33 AM, Bobbie Martin <mini1275@...> wrote:
        I'm looking at building up a bike for my (adult) daughter.
        It's an older Moulton with 16” wheels. It uses an 111mm OLN rear hub
        with rim brakes.
        I don't want to change the hub spacing. She is a casual rider and will
        not put a lot of miles on it, maybe 1000 a year at most.
        Given that, I'm looking at a Sturmey Archer SRF5 5 speed hub.
        I can get it in 111 spacing and the gearing looks work well with the 16”
        (349) wheel, with a wide (enough) range.

        Looking for suggestions or comments.
        Thanks, Bobbie Martin


        ------------------------------------

        Yahoo Groups Links

        <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
            http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Geared_hub_bikes/

        <*> Your email settings:
            Individual Email | Traditional

        <*> To change settings online go to:
            http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Geared_hub_bikes/join
            (Yahoo! ID required)

        <*> To change settings via email:
            Geared_hub_bikes-digest@yahoogroups.com
            Geared_hub_bikes-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

        <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
            Geared_hub_bikes-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

        <*> Your use of Yahoo Groups is subject to:
            http://info.yahoo.com/legal/us/yahoo/utos/terms/


      • alcandd
        I have 2 or 3 thousand miles on an SRF5(W) with a trigger shifter that I put onto my Brompton a couple years ago. I have experienced no issues and been very
        Message 3 of 8 , Jan 17, 2014
        • 0 Attachment
          I have 2 or 3 thousand miles on an SRF5(W) with a trigger shifter that I put onto my Brompton a couple years ago.  I have experienced no issues and been very satisfied. 

          As stated by Jeff, you have to get the indicator pin set correctly.  From my experience, this can be an issue with new cables (they seem to stretch a bit when new)  or after changing the rear wheel after a flat tire. I see occasional "loss of adjustment" issues with my Brompton, but I think that the act of repeated folding has an effect.  I would expect it to be more stable on a Moulton (unless it is a separable frame.) 

          Adjusting the indicator pin is easy and if your daughter is in the least bit handy, then it is no problem to make the minor adjustments should shifting issues occur.  Duncan in Clemson SC
        • Mark Stonich
          If you want reliability and lack of fussiness about adjustment I recommend an old 2 cable SA 5 speed. S5 or S5/2. The slightly narrower range is more than made
          Message 4 of 8 , Jan 17, 2014
          • 0 Attachment
            If you want reliability and lack of fussiness about adjustment I recommend an old 2 cable SA 5 speed. S5 or S5/2.

            The slightly narrower range is more than made up by better gear spacing,  And the guts would drop right into the FW hub shell on her F Frame Moulton.

            Come to think of it, if you have the original FW it's simple to convert it into a much more reliable S5. 

            On Jan 16, 2014, at 1:33 PM, Bobbie Martin wrote:

            I'm looking at building up a bike for my (adult) daughter.
            It's an older Moulton with 16” wheels. It uses an 111mm OLN rear hub 
            with rim brakes.

             Mark Stonich;    BikeSmith Design & Fabrication
               5349 Elliot Ave S. Minneapolis, MN 55417 USA
                  Ph. (612) 824-2372   http://bikesmithdesign.com



          • John S. Allen
            ... If you have the parts. The original S5 is reliable if used with the right shifters, the most recent S5/2 II also, intermediate versions, not. Details at
            Message 5 of 8 , Jan 18, 2014
            • 0 Attachment
              At 02:01 PM 1/17/2014, Mark Stonich wrote:
              >
              >
              >If you want reliability and lack of fussiness about adjustment I
              >recommend an old 2 cable SA 5 speed. S5 or S5/2.
              >
              >The slightly narrower range is more than made up by better gear
              >spacing, And the guts would drop right into the FW hub shell on her
              >F Frame Moulton.
              >
              >Come to think of it, if you have the original FW it's simple to
              >convert it into a much more reliable S5.

              If you have the parts.

              The original S5 is reliable if used with the right shifters, the most
              recent S5/2 II also, intermediate versions, not. Details at
              http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer_5-spd.html

              John S. Allen

              Technical Writer/Editor, http://sheldonbrown.com

              League Cycling Instructor #77-C

              jsallen *at* bikexprt.com
              http://bikexprt.com
              http://john-s-allen.com/blog
              http://bostonbiker.org/streetsmarts
            • Bobbie Martin
              This bike is being built from odd parts, so I don t have an FW hub. I do have a SA S3B from a MK3 Mouton, but was looking for something better. Are there any
              Message 6 of 8 , Jan 18, 2014
              • 0 Attachment
                This bike is being built from odd parts, so I don't have an FW hub. 
                I do have a SA S3B from a MK3 Mouton, but was looking for something better.
                Are there any 111 OLN 7-8 speed hubs?
                I have a MK3 Moulton with a Nexus 8 speed, but this required respacing the rear dropouts.
                On this bike I want to keep the original spacing.
                Thanks, Bobbie

                On 1/18/2014 10:25 AM, John S. Allen wrote:
                 

                At 02:01 PM 1/17/2014, Mark Stonich wrote:
                >
                >
                >If you want reliability and lack of fussiness about adjustment I
                >recommend an old 2 cable SA 5 speed. S5 or S5/2.
                >
                >The slightly narrower range is more than made up by better gear
                >spacing, And the guts would drop right into the FW hub shell on her
                >F Frame Moulton.
                >
                >Come to think of it, if you have the original FW it's simple to
                >convert it into a much more reliable S5.

                If you have the parts.

                The original S5 is reliable if used with the right shifters, the most
                recent S5/2 II also, intermediate versions, not. Details at
                http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer_5-spd.html


              • John S. Allen
                The Sturmey-Archer brakeless 8-speeds can get down around 115 mm. I don t think 111. The Nexus 8-speed can only get down around 124, see
                Message 7 of 8 , Jan 18, 2014
                • 0 Attachment
                  The Sturmey-Archer brakeless 8-speeds can get down around 115 mm. I don't think 111.  The Nexus 8-speed can only get down around 124, see http://sheldonbrown.com/rollerbrakes.html.

                  At 05:39 PM 1/18/2014, Bobbie Martin wrote:
                   

                  This bike is being built from odd parts, so I don't have an FW hub. 
                  I do have a SA S3B from a MK3 Mouton, but was looking for something better.
                  Are there any 111 OLN 7-8 speed hubs?
                  I have a MK3 Moulton with a Nexus 8 speed, but this required respacing the rear dropouts.
                  On this bike I want to keep the original spacing.
                  Thanks, Bobbie

                  On 1/18/2014 10:25 AM, John S. Allen wrote:
                   

                  At 02:01 PM 1/17/2014, Mark Stonich wrote:
                  >
                  >
                  >If you want reliability and lack of fussiness about adjustment I
                  >recommend an old 2 cable SA 5 speed. S5 or S5/2.
                  >
                  >The slightly narrower range is more than made up by better gear
                  >spacing, And the guts would drop right into the FW hub shell on her
                  >F Frame Moulton.
                  >
                  >Come to think of it, if you have the original FW it's simple to
                  >convert it into a much more reliable S5.

                  If you have the parts.

                  The original S5 is reliable if used with the right shifters, the most
                  recent S5/2 II also, intermediate versions, not. Details at
                  http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer_5-spd.html

                  John S. Allen

                  Technical Writer/Editor,  http://sheldonbrown.com

                  League Cycling Instructor #77-C

                  jsallen *at* bikexprt.com
                  http://bikexprt.com
                  http://john-s-allen.com/blog
                  http://bostonbiker.org/streetsmarts

                • Mark Stonich
                  ... The only uncommon parts needed for the conversion are the Sun gear, bellcrank and if needed, the dog ring locking washer. I have the S5 sun gears, dog ring
                  Message 8 of 8 , Jan 19, 2014
                  • 0 Attachment

                    At 02:01 PM 1/17/2014, Mark Stonich wrote:

                    >Come to think of it, if you have the original FW it's simple to
                    >convert it into a much more reliable S5.

                    On Jan 18, 2014, at 9:25 AM, John S. Allen wrote:


                    If you have the parts.

                    The only uncommon parts needed for the conversion are the Sun gear, bellcrank and if needed, the dog ring locking washer. I have the S5 sun gears, dog ring locking washers and Shimano bellcranks bored and tapped to 13/32" x 26 tpi. 

                    Converting an FW 4 speed to an S5 Five Speed

                    Why?

                    It’s fairly easy to find an FW without it’s delicate 2 piece indicator rods. Indicator rods, when they are on Ebay bring steep prices. The high cable tensions in bottom gear are tough on 4 speed triggers and the triggers themselves are not cheap or all that common. S5 is IMHO a simpler, more robust unit, And the added high gear allows you to run a larger rear cog and still have a gear suitable for those rare tailwinds.

                    What Do You Need?

                    AW or FW trigger, AW axle key and indicator. Left side shifter, cable, and cable stops or guides as needed. To be authentic, you would use a 2nd pulley and a fulcrum clip. It's best to use a friction shifter for the left, whether thumb, stem, downtube or bar-end.

                    Bellcrank; If you are using a friction shifter for the left side you can use a common Shimano bellcrank that has been bored out and retapped to 13/32” x 26 TPI. I am equipped to do this. If you will be using Sturmey Archer shifters on both sides, you will need a Genuine Sturmey Bellcrank to get the correct leverage ratios. I have a few, both NOS and used. (I'm out of the Sturmey bellcranks but I have a good supply of the modified Shimanos for $15)

                    You will get more reliable shifting into the wide range if you put a spring on the bellcrank. Like so; http://bikesmithdesign.com/SA/bellcrank-spring.jpg

                    Pushrod: Sturmey made many versions of the S5 pushrod but I always prefer a modified nail because you can fine tune the length. I recently scored a complete NOS S5 kit, from the last year of production, on Ebay. The pushrod is just a very nicely made nail.

                    Now the rare bits; (Of which I have a few)

                    HSA 269 - S5 Primary Sun Pinion $12.00  (I got these from Michael Wilson. He has more, probably cheaper.)

                    http://bikesmithdesign.com/SA/S5andFWsuns.jpg

                    The FW sun is on the axle. As one side of the dogs are ramped, it will only transmit power in one direction.

                    And you may need HMW 149 - Lockwasher for Dog-Ring. This washer is keyed to the axle and you fold it over the dog ring locknut HSN 133. You can usually reuse the original lockwasher once. $2.00

                    Don't mix up the dog ring locknut HSN 133 and the similar looking cone locknut HSN 132







                     Mark Stonich;    BikeSmith Design & Fabrication
                       5349 Elliot Ave S. Minneapolis, MN 55417 USA
                          Ph. (612) 824-2372   http://bikesmithdesign.com



                  Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.