RE: [Geared_hub_bikes] Sturmey FM axles
- Best bet on the Italian racing frame, which I assume is steel, is to have a frame builder re-space the rear triangle to fit a standard SA OLD. I've done quite a few Schwinn and boxmart frames so I can fit coaster brake hubs. But I hired a frame builder to re-space a nice Columbus steel tubing frame to take modern 9 speed wheels.
From: Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com [Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of beandk50 [beandk@...]
Sent: Friday, June 07, 2013 1:51 PM
Subject: [Geared_hub_bikes] Sturmey FM axles
I have a SA FM installed in an Italian racing frame, which is a really fun setup. The axle is a bit short; it seems like not more than 4 or 5 turns of the axle nuts is possible before they're tight. I'd like to have the axle a bit farther in, of course.
Tony Hadland's exploded drawings of the FM list only one axle (the same part # is used for most of the sportier hubs) and that's 5 3/4 inches. Was a longer axle ever made? (Or should I forget about finding one...)
Second, I have a damaged 5 3/4" hollow axle that I thought was for the FM as it was among some parts that came with the hub when I bought it. It has a [now stripped] sun gear integral with the axle itself. None of the exploded drawings seem to show such an axle - their sun gears are all separate and pinned to the axle. What could it be?
Arlington, MA USA
- It probably is for an AM. Hadland's exploded drawing looks right (I guess I didn't check that one) and the doubled planet gears look the same too. Interesting that the AM's construction looks so different from the other 3-speeds.
Arlington, MA USA
(Yeah, I'm in Arlington center.)
--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, "bikealfa" <mtwils@...> wrote:
> AM axle? The AM sun is teeth cut into the axle. And my memory is weak on the KS/KSW axles.
> I do not believe the FM/FC/ASC axle ever came in anything longer than 5 3/4
> As a complete side note - maybe we could have a "just west of Boston" gathering sometime.
> Michael Wilson
- On 2013-06-08, at 4:05 AM, "Paulos, Richard G" <rick-paulos@...> wrote:
> Best bet on the Italian racing frame, which I assume is steel, is to have a frame builder re-space the rear triangle to fit a standard SA OLD. I've done quite a few Schwinn and boxmart frames so I can fit coaster brake hubs. But I hired a frame builder to re-space a nice Columbus steel tubing frame to take modern 9 speed wheels.And if you do get a bee in your bonnet to respace the frame yourself (say, following the Sheldon Brown instructions) be warned that it is scary easy. My "test" bend (Austrian Capo frame, Reynolds 531 doube-butted) turned out to be a millimeter more than I needed. I said "whew, close enough", and declared it done.
- I have respaced a lot of steel frames. It is a lot easier with a stand that holds the frame firmly. I have a Park frame repair stand.
It is also nice to readjust the dropouts so they are parallel after respacing.
And for Sturmey Archer hubs on Campy style dropouts, I like a little steel plate on the bottom of the dropout to adjust the slot width. On one frame I brazed it; I believe I have also used adhesive. This makes brake centering more precise.
Bolton MA (OK more than just west of Boston, but certainly ridable)