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Re: [Geared_hub_bikes] Sachs Torpedo 3spd

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  • Alan Lloyd
    I possibly fell foul of something similar last week on a coaster-brake hub, which is something I haven t worked on much ... I d disassembled it completely and
    Message 1 of 3 , Apr 1, 2009
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      I possibly fell foul of something similar last week on a coaster-brake hub, which is something I haven't worked on much ...

      I'd disassembled it completely and then failed to 'lock' the coaster-brake side (IE: by tightening the outer nut against the arm, effectively 'locking' this nut and the arm against the cone), so when the wheel turned it all over-tightened!

      Me-thinks the inner braking mechanism dragged the cone around, effectively overtightening the axle?

      Not  a Sachs Torpedo 3-speed, but something similar may apply?

      Alan Lloyd
      Schaumburg, Illinois, USA

      --- On Wed, 4/1/09, Simon Boddy <joe.ninety90@...> wrote:
      From: Simon Boddy <joe.ninety90@...>
      Subject: [Geared_hub_bikes] Sachs Torpedo 3spd
      To: Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Wednesday, April 1, 2009, 5:18 AM

      Ok list here's your chance to shine! We have a totally deadly bike workshop here in Lyon, run by an association, 25€ annual membership. Last night at the workshop I got drawn into the unhappy tale of a girl with a lovely dutch bike, with a 3speed sachs torpedo hub with coaster brake. She's had the bike for 4 months, and in that time hasn't been able to get the hub turning freely. The symptoms defy logic...

      • Everything works normally until the wheel nut is done up on the left hand side. (the outmost nut that holds the wheel in the dropouts)
      • When the LH wheel nut is done up, it becomes nearly impossible to turn the pedals.
      • In this state, the wheel still freewheels normally.
      • The cog on the hub turns freely through about 1/8th of a turn, presumably thanks to the freewheel. It gets stiff as soon as the internals of the hub are engaged.
      • I corrected some spread in the dropouts to return them to +- parallel, without any effect.
      • There are no washers between the cone nuts and the wheel nut. One of the workshop mechanics thinks this might be an issue.
      The hub has already been disassembled and put back together, and the problem apparently is the same after as before. I'm not keen to repeat this myself unless someone can give me a good tip as to what I'm looking for. Any suggestions or resources are appreciated. If I send the hub somewhere for repair, will I just send the internals, or could the hub's installation in the shell be the source of the problem?
      Thanks in advance.
      Simon Boddy
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