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Re: SRAM iMotion3 problem

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  • pj
    ... Venturing a guess: the counter poised pawls are a part of the back pedal brake. They provide drive when you pedal forwards, and when you back pedal the
    Message 1 of 12 , May 2 8:11 AM
      > I've just stripped and cleaned a SRAM i-Motion 3... but I have
      > a problem that is foxing me. I think it is something to do with
      > the pawls but can't track it down.
      >
      > When the shifter cable is pulled (3rd gear) the wheel will only
      > make maximum a half rotation and then locks up. Fortunately
      > I haven't tried to actually ride it yet or I would probably have
      > wrecked it. Anyone know what have I put back wrong?
      >
      > Is this something to do with the driver assembly? There is a sort
      > of sheath that moves with the clutch and covers two of the pawls.
      > What I don't really understand is why there are two sets of two pawls
      > on the driver unit that face in opposite directions. Can someone
      > explain this to me?


      Venturing a guess: the counter poised pawls are a part of the back pedal brake. They provide drive when you pedal forwards, and when you back pedal the sheath (control washer) uncovers the other set of pawls and allows braking.

      I note this cryptic message in the reassembly section of the tech manual: "The pawls must lie in the recesses of the control washer."

      pj
    • Zack B
      After I detonated the IM3 coaster brake on my Swobo Otis, the hub would completely lock up in 3rd gear. By stripping and rebuilding it a few times I was able
      Message 2 of 12 , May 4 3:23 PM
        After I detonated the IM3 coaster brake on my Swobo Otis, the hub would completely lock up in 3rd gear.

        By stripping and rebuilding it a few times I was able to get it to function in 3rd gear again.
        I am not exactly sure what the difference was, but getting the planetary gear carrier properly situated seems to a have been important.

        See page 45, step 17, #53 &54 here:

        http://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/sram-techmanual-my10-gearhubsystems-english-reva.pdf





        On Tue, Apr 30, 2013 at 11:54 AM, hubmanholland <hubstripping@...> wrote:
         

        HELP!

        I've just stripped and cleaned a SRAM i-Motion 3 (post 2007 version where the shifter cable goes into the hub innards) but I have a problem that is foxing me. I think it is something to do with the pawls but can't track it down.

        When the shifter cable is pulled (3rd gear) the wheel will only make maximum a half rotation and then locks up. Fortunately I haven't tried to actually ride it yet or I would probably have wrecked it. Anyone know what have I put back wrong?

        Is this something to do with the driver assembly? There is a sort of sheath that moves with the clutch and covers two of the pawls. What I don't really understand is why there are two sets of two pawls on the driver unit that face in opposite directions. Can someone explain this to me?

        Shame there isn't better information for this hub on the web. I can only find the SRAM PDFs which are a bit short on detail in comparison to the Shimano Tech Docs.

        Thanks for any pointers!

        Simon




        --
        -Zack
      • hubmanholland
        Dear all, Thanks for your advice. I also found that on the fourth or fifth rebuild it all seemed to just work. I am not aware that I changed anything or did
        Message 3 of 12 , May 8 2:14 PM
          Dear all,

          Thanks for your advice. I also found that on the fourth or fifth rebuild it all seemed to just work. I am not aware that I changed anything or did anything different. Odd business.

          Just a couple of final niggles. Firstly, to lock the brake side bearing you need at least one thin flat 22mm spanner, which I don't have, as there are two thin 22mm lock nuts.

          Secondly, despite thoroughly greasing it, the coaster brake is squeaking like train horn when applied! I've re-greased several simple gear-less coaster brakes in this way in the past and not had this issue. Will this improve with use?

          Simon

          --- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, Zack B <zoombomber@...> wrote:
          >
          > After I detonated the IM3 coaster brake on my Swobo Otis, the hub would
          > completely lock up in 3rd gear.
          >
          > By stripping and rebuilding it a few times I was able to get it to function
          > in 3rd gear again.
          > I am not exactly sure what the difference was, but getting the planetary
          > gear carrier properly situated seems to a have been important.
          >
          > See page 45, step 17, #53 &54 here:
          >
          > http://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/sram-techmanual-my10-gearhubsystems-english-reva.pdf
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > On Tue, Apr 30, 2013 at 11:54 AM, hubmanholland
          > <hubstripping@...>wrote:
          >
          > > **
          > >
          > >
          > > HELP!
          > >
          > > I've just stripped and cleaned a SRAM i-Motion 3 (post 2007 version where
          > > the shifter cable goes into the hub innards) but I have a problem that is
          > > foxing me. I think it is something to do with the pawls but can't track it
          > > down.
          > >
          > > When the shifter cable is pulled (3rd gear) the wheel will only make
          > > maximum a half rotation and then locks up. Fortunately I haven't tried to
          > > actually ride it yet or I would probably have wrecked it. Anyone know what
          > > have I put back wrong?
          > >
          > > Is this something to do with the driver assembly? There is a sort of
          > > sheath that moves with the clutch and covers two of the pawls. What I don't
          > > really understand is why there are two sets of two pawls on the driver unit
          > > that face in opposite directions. Can someone explain this to me?
          > >
          > > Shame there isn't better information for this hub on the web. I can only
          > > find the SRAM PDFs which are a bit short on detail in comparison to the
          > > Shimano Tech Docs.
          > >
          > > Thanks for any pointers!
          > >
          > > Simon
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >
          >
          >
          > --
          > -Zack
          >
        • Zack B
          Try spraying the coaster brake parts with wd-40 before greasing them. ... -- -Zack
          Message 4 of 12 , May 8 2:18 PM
            Try spraying the coaster brake parts with wd-40 before greasing them.


            On Wed, May 8, 2013 at 2:14 PM, hubmanholland <hubstripping@...> wrote:
             

            Dear all,

            Thanks for your advice. I also found that on the fourth or fifth rebuild it all seemed to just work. I am not aware that I changed anything or did anything different. Odd business.

            Just a couple of final niggles. Firstly, to lock the brake side bearing you need at least one thin flat 22mm spanner, which I don't have, as there are two thin 22mm lock nuts.

            Secondly, despite thoroughly greasing it, the coaster brake is squeaking like train horn when applied! I've re-greased several simple gear-less coaster brakes in this way in the past and not had this issue. Will this improve with use?



            Simon

            --- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, Zack B <zoombomber@...> wrote:
            >
            > After I detonated the IM3 coaster brake on my Swobo Otis, the hub would
            > completely lock up in 3rd gear.
            >
            > By stripping and rebuilding it a few times I was able to get it to function
            > in 3rd gear again.
            > I am not exactly sure what the difference was, but getting the planetary
            > gear carrier properly situated seems to a have been important.
            >
            > See page 45, step 17, #53 &54 here:
            >
            > http://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/sram-techmanual-my10-gearhubsystems-english-reva.pdf
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > On Tue, Apr 30, 2013 at 11:54 AM, hubmanholland
            > <hubstripping@...>wrote:
            >
            > > **

            > >
            > >
            > > HELP!
            > >
            > > I've just stripped and cleaned a SRAM i-Motion 3 (post 2007 version where
            > > the shifter cable goes into the hub innards) but I have a problem that is
            > > foxing me. I think it is something to do with the pawls but can't track it
            > > down.
            > >
            > > When the shifter cable is pulled (3rd gear) the wheel will only make
            > > maximum a half rotation and then locks up. Fortunately I haven't tried to
            > > actually ride it yet or I would probably have wrecked it. Anyone know what
            > > have I put back wrong?
            > >
            > > Is this something to do with the driver assembly? There is a sort of
            > > sheath that moves with the clutch and covers two of the pawls. What I don't
            > > really understand is why there are two sets of two pawls on the driver unit
            > > that face in opposite directions. Can someone explain this to me?
            > >
            > > Shame there isn't better information for this hub on the web. I can only
            > > find the SRAM PDFs which are a bit short on detail in comparison to the
            > > Shimano Tech Docs.
            > >
            > > Thanks for any pointers!
            > >
            > > Simon
            > >
            > >
            > >
            >
            >
            >
            > --
            > -Zack
            >




            --
            -Zack
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