Re: Substitute shells for Sturmey FM
- I posted a picture of my FM/FC ball cup remover in the photo album. I cut the handle off 10 years ago because I needed to use the pipe for some other household project.
Another "big bolt" remover:
I had only limited success with the big bolt method and never bought an official tool, but I borrowed one of the official tools and it worked pretty well on the one fixed cup I tried.
--- In Geared_hub_bikes@yahoogroups.com, Mark Stonich <mark@...> wrote:
> Older AW and FW left cups with flats are threaded into their shells.
> Newer AW and FW left cups without flats are pressed into their shells.
> ASC left cups have to be pressed in or they would unscrew from the shell
> when stopping. If your ASC left cup was pressed into a threaded FW
> shell I doubt the threads are still good.
> FMs don't have flats but are threaded into their shells. Any old time
> bike shop should have a Kingsbridge fixed cup tool
> These removed/installed stuck fixed BB cups with friction, Much like
> Sheldon's Big Bolt Theory
> <http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html> But with finer threads
> for more clamping force and the tool is longer so you don't need a
> socket to get inside the shell. I've swapped FM cups using mine on 3
> occasions. All successful so far but none came easily. Remember, LH
> threads on the left side.
> To work on an SA hub that's not built into a wheel you just need a vice
> and some wooden clamping blocks. Making them gets sawdust all over your
> metal lathe.
> When ball cups are badly stuck this is better than having them in a wheel.
> 36h rims and 40 hole hubs are a PITA but several people have done 32h
> rims on 40h hubs using only two spoke lengths. I've been meaning to
> create a spoke calculator for this. But until I actually need to build
> such a wheel, I'll never find the time.
- I think discussing wheel sizes applies to this forum because it affects your gearing.
For example most 700C bikes can accept smaller wheels which will give slightly lower gears and fatter tires.
Also like Alex W. said, 590 is a very common 3 speed size and almost everyone has or has seen or will get a Raleigh 3 speed!
There is some confusion about the 700D size. Sheldon Brown lists it as 587mm, http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html as does my Black edition of Sutherland's Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics BEFORE the correction. A sticker sheet was sent out with corrections that you cut out and stuck over the errors. I have that correction in my copy of the book. It says 583mm is the correct size for 700D. BSDs within 2 or 3mm should be interchangeable!
I used to have a spare set of the GT knobbies for their 700D bike.
I finally sold them some years ago. They were NOS. I fit them on a 584mm rim and they fit just fine. They did NOT fit on a 590. When I had them and I was counseling Grant and Jan to push for more tires for 590 instead of 584 I created this page: http://www.rideyourbike.com/650b.shtml there is a link to a picture of the 700D on a 584mm rim.
This leads me to believe that Sutherland's is correct and 700D is 583 and Sheldon is wrong and 700D is NOT 587. Does anyone have a tire with the Bead Seat Diameter printed?
I think 587mm tire size "standard" might have problems since bead seat diameter varies from rim to rim and tire to tire. I mean, I think it would work most of the time, but no manufacturer is going to make them because of liablility, unless they also make 587mm rims. So we are stuck with 2 good tire sizes. Maybe the industry will adopt one over the other like they did with 622 over 630.
At this point, I would vote for 584 only because it is a smaller size and will fit more bikes. BUT, and this is a big BUTT, 584 tires would need to come in narrower sizes! Just like 700C now comes in every size from 18mm to 65mm+. Most 622 bikes cannot be retrofit to 584 unless a narrow tire like the Col de la Vie is used.