Re: [Geared_hub_bikes] Re: Tenacious oil makes pawls stick?
- On 2012-10-19, at 9:14 AM, nznmantas <main32@...> wrote:
> Only problem is the leakage. BTW, I'm planing to make a oiling port for this hub, that way this problem would be solved and I won't need to pull out an internals for just renewing an oil lubrication.Be aware, the leakage (I had this with an Alfine 8) can be pretty annoying.
It's not at all compatible with disk brakes, for example, and it might be a problem with rim brakes.
You could do what I did with mine, before I sold it for small dollars to a friend,
which is to fill it, work the hub for a while, and then leave the port open for several hours to allow the oil to drain out.
This is certainly easier than disassembly, though perhaps slower.
I recall, also, that there is a hardened steel track inside of an Alfine hub shell, and you will want to be sure not to put your oil port in that :-).
- I suspect that you can make your own version of this so-called Tenacious Oil by mixing STP Oil Treatment with engine oil; this. I did this in the '70's when STP was touted as a panacea for worn engines. I applied this mixture to chains and SA-AW's and now look back at the "experiment" as a disaster. It seems that the thickening agent (long polymer chains?) seemed to provide no lubricity to the chain and affected the pawl operation of the hub so badly that I had to flush it with kerosene/paraffin oil.
Al in Philadelphia .
- I have not had Phil Wood Tenacious Oil cause pawls to stick. I don't think it is possible! I have used it in regular freehubs and freewheels and internal gear hubs for almost 30 professional years as a mechanic. It is a fine oil and available at any bike shop in the USA.
We even use it on chains when there is a full chain case.
If you live in a high humidity location and want to prevent rust even more we recommend spraying or dipping all the internal parts in Boeshield T9 before re-assembly. Let the Boeshield dry before using your regular oil.
We use marine grease on all ball bearings (rollers need oil) and on the gear teeth. The grease on the gear teeth seems to make the hub run more quiet and smooth. Everything else gets Tenacious oil. The grease around the bearings helps slow the oil leakage. Most IGH are not sealed well.
I find it odd that so many people think that the Alfine 11 is defective if it leaks. A sister shop in Portland said (Joe Bike), that 80 to 90% of the Alfine 11 hubs leak oil. If that is true then I think it must be "normal"! Shimano may say they are not supposed to leak, but if most do, well then that is the way they are! At least until Shimano comes out with better seals. Most bicycle seals are just too weak to hold oil in. Even Rohloff hubs sometimes leak, but usually when the main seals are worn. Bicycles need light seals because we humans have limited energy to spare. Compare a modern hub seal to an automotive axle seal! They are very stiff.
Sturmey Archer uses labyrinth seals which are quite superior to rubber seals when filled with grease. Most Shimano hubs also use a combination labyrinth-rubber seal which is quite effective. Old Specialized hubs from the 70s and 80s use a labyrinth over a rubber cartridge seal. I have hardly ever seen one of those hubs rust. Phil Wood uses what they call "Phil Spec" seals. The reddish/orange ones (sometimes brown). Shimano could learn from these other companies!