Re: [FJGRailroad] Fall Get Together
- Hello Aaron,I didn't forget about you, I just remembered you late.The most important requirement of concrete patching is the correct and complete preparation of the substrate. Like painting, it requires most of the time and effort spent to complete the project. I am assuming that you have not had a lot of experience, so I am starting with the fundamentals.Preparations: Remove all loose and fractured concrete to a sound surface. Leave the surface as rough as you are able for a structural bond between the substrate and the patch; you will obtain a secure chemical induced bond from the products that you will use. There are detailed prep requirements in the product literature (see below).You will need a 2 or 3 lb. hammer (like a small sledge hammer), and some concrete hand chisels (1/2 " to 2") and points, small dust brushes a little more flexible that a whisk broom, an assortment of flat and pointed (triangular) trowels, and a wood float if you need to have a rough finished surface. Also, mixing containers (wheel barrel), hoe, square and round "D" handle (short) shovels, clean containers for potable water, and a water spray bottle to clean the patches after dusting and prior to patching, and for adding the last few drops of water to the mix.And don't forget goggles and/or safety glasses and work gloves. I don't think that the volume of dust that you will raise will require a respirator.I am assuming that you will not be located near a source of power. If you are, there are electric hammers available with chisels and points that will make the job a lot easier and quicker.There is a variety of mixes available, but I found a fairly new one that seems to be adequate/ideal for all patching conditions. Below are the web addresses of the specific product system and the manufacturer's home page. What I like about it is that it is quick setting but still has workable time. Say that you have a 4 or 5 inch long corner missing, 2 inches deep. With most cementious products a patch that size will sag and you will be unable to fill it and finish it at one pass. With this product you are able to layer the patch thin enough to prevent sagging, and come back in 30 minutes to apply another layer. Just use the point of the trowel to roughen the surface of each layer (except for the finish layer of course). It is ideal for larger surface imperfections also. If you come across a mile post that contains many cracks that would affect its structural integrity, you may not be able to salvage it. The only solution would be to recast it in a mold(form). Now that is a BIG deal, but not impossible. Of course, you could reuse the form and make as many as you want. But that would be another teaching moment.My wife Sandra and I are coming up on 8/6 for the Railfest and some other sight seeing. It is about a four hour drive for us. We will be staying at the Holiday Inn in Johnstown.Let me know what your plans are and if I can be of any more assistance.DickOn Jul 16, 2009, at 8:12 PM, Aaron Keller wrote:I could use advice such as this. What products would you recommend, Dick?
My general thought is that --- if this group wants to chip in to do the repairs --- I could probably get together with a couple people and do the patching work this summer, and then we could do the painting as time allows. Obviously several steps are involved, and as discussed, this could be a smaller work detail involving some of us who live a little closer to Gloversville. Photos of course would be available to all, as well as the ability to visit.