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Re: [F-Costume] Advice on Petticoat/CanCan Skirt Constructions

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  • Cat Devereaux
    ... That s not regular spandex... that s power net, or the modern equivalent. And look at the waist area. That may be a regular elastic (very wide kind,
    Message 1 of 10 , Feb 14, 2013
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      On 2/14/2013 3:19 AM, darth_eagle wrote:
      > I saw this Petticoat Skirt on someone FB Page and I wonder if anyone
      > can offer any advice on making it?
      > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631_o.jpg
      >
      > - Based on the above image, should I make the Spandex portion of it as
      > a "Tube", loosely based on the total circumference of my Hips so it'll
      > be snuggle around my Hips? (Am a Plus Size person FYI)
      That's not regular spandex... that's power net, or the modern
      equivalent. And look at the waist area. That may be a regular elastic
      (very wide kind, trimmed and zigged at the bottom edge (which isn't a
      good thing).

      Basically, you're looking for the material that they make the modern
      "Spanks", or "sharpers", or "enhancers" out of. Given I know you don't
      have access to great a fabric center... you might want to get a high
      waisted shaper if you don't have one already. Actually the long legged
      kind. (And in the two much information deparment, they are a bit split
      so you don't have to peel the whole thing off to use the basic
      physilities.) The open shape has a tendency to ride up... and you're
      not likely to find one pre-made as long as you need.

      This fabric is very stretchy BOTH ways, else you couldn't sit. You're
      seeing the wrinkles in the front of the stomach because it's too tight
      for that manikin at the stomach.

      If you start w/ a shaper, then you could just use spandex, not fitted
      quite as tight for the upper skirt area.

      > - What shape should I cut for the "Bottom Half" of the skirt (Circle
      > OR Long Rectangular Strip?) and how wide it should for the "top
      > portion", compared to the length of the bottom hem of the Spandex?
      >
      Strip. It's not an exact rectangle because it's longer in back than
      front. Where you connect the two, make sure to use a very stretchy
      stitch. You may need to put bias tape or binding around that seam so it
      doesn't scratch.

      > - Which Type of Netting is best to be used for the bottom half of the
      > skirt?
      >
      Illusion. It's the the stiff bridal vale stuff.

      > - How many layers should I make the bottom most netting layer to get a
      > "puffiness" as seen in the photo
      I think it's just folded in half... the gather stitch is in the
      center.... and it's folder over. Thing to note... There's a thick row
      of tape under at the seam. It doesn't look like there's cording there,
      but it's a fairly solid bias tape.

      It looks like both edges (top and under) hare finished with lace. Can't
      tell if it's flat, or has a slight basic gater.
      > - and how "gathered" should it be (cut 3 times the length of the Top
      > Netting Bottom Hem)?
      I think it's a 3:1, which is the standard tight gather. Though the top
      might be a 4:1
      ANYONE ELSE??? I know it's not Max gathered like a Tutu... but am
      guessing a tad.

      Good luck.

      -Cat-
    • Sarah Strong
      Cat, everything you said sounds about right. If she starts with a shaper undergarment, and doesn t want to attach the tulle skirt assembly to it, then the
      Message 2 of 10 , Feb 14, 2013
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        Cat, everything you said sounds about right.
        If she starts with a shaper undergarment, and doesn't want to attach the
        tulle skirt assembly to it, then the narrow tube top part of it could
        also be swimsuit type fabric, which is stretchy in both directions, but
        doesn't have the "hold-you-in" factor of powernet.

        The outfit she's making it to go under, reminds me of a technique I saw
        in a friend's wedding dress years ago. She had these lovely crisply
        flared sleeves, which were made by marrying a layer of robust tulle
        (could have even been crin, it's been a while) to the back of the
        fashion fabric. If I was trying to get a skirt to make those big springy
        loopy flares, I'd start by underlining it with tulle, at least one
        layer, maybe a second in the lower portion, and then adding horsehair
        braid to the hem.
        The dress pattern would need to be princess seams, possibly with added
        gores but preferably just really flared lower skirts.

        On 2/14/2013 6:19 AM, darth_eagle wrote:
        > I saw this Petticoat Skirt on someone FB Page and I wonder if anyone can
        > offer any advice on making it?
        >
        > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631_o.jpg
        >
        > - Based on the above image, should I make the Spandex portion of it as a
        > "Tube", loosely based on the total circumference of my Hips so it'll be
        > snuggle around my Hips? (Am a Plus Size person FYI)
        >
        > - What shape should I cut for the "Bottom Half" of the skirt (Circle OR
        > Long Rectangular Strip?) and how wide it should for the "top portion",
        > compared to the length of the bottom hem of the Spandex?
        >
        > - Which Type of Netting is best to be used for the bottom half of the
        > skirt?
        >
        > - How many layers should I make the bottom most netting layer to get a
        > "puffiness" as seen in the photo and how "gathered" should it be (cut 3
        > times the length of the Top Netting Bottom Hem)?
        >
        > The skirt will be for this Outfit =>
        > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena/LC84-02cut.jpg
        > and Crazy me want to make the Skirt Top Portion almost-hip-hugging while
        > the Bottom portion flares out. And the dress suppose to have a Train too
        > at the back (
        > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/lc13_1472_edit1sharp.jpg
        > |
        > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/sslc_c70_02-03_cut.jpg)
        >
        > Thanks ^_^
        >
        > Fatimah
        >
        >
      • Silvara
        It s a God Save the Queen Fashions petticoat, you could jus ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        Message 3 of 10 , Feb 14, 2013
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          It's a God Save the Queen Fashions petticoat, you could jus

          On Feb 14, 2013, at 3:19 AM, "darth_eagle" <darth_eagle@...> wrote:

          > I saw this Petticoat Skirt on someone FB Page and I wonder if anyone can offer any advice on making it?
          >
          > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631_o.jpg
          >
          > - Based on the above image, should I make the Spandex portion of it as a "Tube", loosely based on the total circumference of my Hips so it'll be snuggle around my Hips? (Am a Plus Size person FYI)
          >
          > - What shape should I cut for the "Bottom Half" of the skirt (Circle OR Long Rectangular Strip?) and how wide it should for the "top portion", compared to the length of the bottom hem of the Spandex?
          >
          > - Which Type of Netting is best to be used for the bottom half of the skirt?
          >
          > - How many layers should I make the bottom most netting layer to get a "puffiness" as seen in the photo and how "gathered" should it be (cut 3 times the length of the Top Netting Bottom Hem)?
          >
          > The skirt will be for this Outfit => http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena/LC84-02cut.jpg
          > and Crazy me want to make the Skirt Top Portion almost-hip-hugging while the Bottom portion flares out. And the dress suppose to have a Train too at the back ( http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/lc13_1472_edit1sharp.jpg | http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/sslc_c70_02-03_cut.jpg)
          >
          > Thanks ^_^
          >
          > Fatimah
          >
          >


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Silvara
          So sorry my phone got hit by a cat and was sent early, if you could ask on the fabric type she usually shares that info since the how to seems to he tackled
          Message 4 of 10 , Feb 14, 2013
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            So sorry my phone got hit by a cat and was sent early, if you could ask on the fabric type she usually shares that info since the how to seems to he tackled already.

            Silvara

            On Feb 14, 2013, at 3:19 AM, "darth_eagle" <darth_eagle@...> wrote:

            > I saw this Petticoat Skirt on someone FB Page and I wonder if anyone can offer any advice on making it?
            >
            > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631_o.jpg
            >
            > - Based on the above image, should I make the Spandex portion of it as a "Tube", loosely based on the total circumference of my Hips so it'll be snuggle around my Hips? (Am a Plus Size person FYI)
            >
            > - What shape should I cut for the "Bottom Half" of the skirt (Circle OR Long Rectangular Strip?) and how wide it should for the "top portion", compared to the length of the bottom hem of the Spandex?
            >
            > - Which Type of Netting is best to be used for the bottom half of the skirt?
            >
            > - How many layers should I make the bottom most netting layer to get a "puffiness" as seen in the photo and how "gathered" should it be (cut 3 times the length of the Top Netting Bottom Hem)?
            >
            > The skirt will be for this Outfit => http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena/LC84-02cut.jpg
            > and Crazy me want to make the Skirt Top Portion almost-hip-hugging while the Bottom portion flares out. And the dress suppose to have a Train too at the back ( http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/lc13_1472_edit1sharp.jpg | http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/sslc_c70_02-03_cut.jpg)
            >
            > Thanks ^_^
            >
            > Fatimah
            >
            >


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Pierre & Sandy Pettinger
            Also, when you stitch the gathered netting to the tube, first, work from the bottom up. Second, lay the netting so the bottom edge points toward the waist.
            Message 5 of 10 , Feb 14, 2013
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              Also, when you stitch the gathered netting to the tube, first, work
              from the bottom up. Second, lay the netting so the bottom edge
              points toward the waist. Stitch it to the tube, then let the netting
              fall over the stitching to lay the correct way. This both hides the
              stitching and the raw edges (less snags), and gives more fullness and
              springiness because you have essentially doubled the depth of the
              gathering at the attachment point.

              Hope this helps!

              Sandy

              At 06:26 AM 2/14/2013, you wrote:
              >
              >On 2/14/2013 3:19 AM, darth_eagle wrote:
              > > I saw this Petticoat Skirt on someone FB Page and I wonder if anyone
              > > can offer any advice on making it?
              > >
              > <http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631_o.jpg>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Costuming/Petticoat/812631_o.jpg
              > >
              > > - Based on the above image, should I make the Spandex portion of it as
              > > a "Tube", loosely based on the total circumference of my Hips so it'll
              > > be snuggle around my Hips? (Am a Plus Size person FYI)
              >That's not regular spandex... that's power net, or the modern
              >equivalent. And look at the waist area. That may be a regular elastic
              >(very wide kind, trimmed and zigged at the bottom edge (which isn't a
              >good thing).

              ---snip---

              > > - What shape should I cut for the "Bottom Half" of the skirt (Circle
              > > OR Long Rectangular Strip?) and how wide it should for the "top
              > > portion", compared to the length of the bottom hem of the Spandex?
              > >
              >Strip. It's not an exact rectangle because it's longer in back than
              >front. Where you connect the two, make sure to use a very stretchy
              >stitch. You may need to put bias tape or binding around that seam so it
              >doesn't scratch.
              >
              > > - Which Type of Netting is best to be used for the bottom half of the
              > > skirt?
              > >
              >Illusion. It's the the stiff bridal vale stuff.
              >
              > > - How many layers should I make the bottom most netting layer to get a
              > > "puffiness" as seen in the photo
              >I think it's just folded in half... the gather stitch is in the
              >center.... and it's folder over. Thing to note... There's a thick row
              >of tape under at the seam. It doesn't look like there's cording there,
              >but it's a fairly solid bias tape.
              >
              >---snip---
              >Good luck.
              >
              >-Cat-

              International Costumers' Guild Archivist

              http://www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php

              "Those Who Fail to Learn History
              Are Doomed to Repeat It;
              Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -
              Why They Are Simply Doomed."

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              "The Illusion of Historical Fact"
              -- C. Y. 4971

              Andromeda

              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • darth_eagle
              ... Ya, I will be wearing the usual Waist Cincher and maybe Shaper Trousers (haven t get round to get one yet as last time I bought it, it got torn the first
              Message 6 of 10 , Feb 16, 2013
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                Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@...> wrote:
                > If you start w/ a shaper, then you could just use spandex, not
                > fitted quite as tight for the upper skirt area.


                Ya, I will be wearing the usual Waist Cincher and maybe Shaper Trousers (haven't get round to get one yet as last time I bought it, it got torn the first time I wore it thanks to a clip in my nail! @_@ Then again, it was one of those "slightly thicker" than Pantyhose kind) underneath the Petticoat Skirt so dun need addition "support" from the Petticoat Skirt. -_^
                And there will still be a slight allowance around the Tummy & Thigh portions of the actual dress apart from it's Lined, so any "patterning" dun show through too much.

                So guess normal Spandex/Lycra will do for the top portion? I might indulge a bit and get better quality Polyester Lycra from Spotlight for it, rather than the cheaper "overly stretchy" Spandex from regular cloth shops.


                > Strip. It's not an exact rectangle because it's longer in back than
                > front. Where you connect the two, make sure to use a very stretchy
                > stitch. You may need to put bias tape or binding around that seam
                > so it doesn't scratch.

                Okay, I'm very "naive" over sewing elastic cloths :
                Just regular Zigzag Stitches with normal polyester thread will do right?

                Do I need to try to stretch the Lycra a bit and align it with the slightly gathered netting too to retain better the elasticity of the Lycra?


                > Illusion. It's the the stiff bridal vale stuff.

                Illusion as Netting or more towards the Organza kind?


                > I think it's a 3:1, which is the standard tight gather. Though the
                > top might be a 4:1

                Top is the wider portion right that is sew to the Lycra/Spandex?


                Thanks for the advice :)

                Fatimah
              • darth_eagle
                ... Yub yub. ;) I m planning to put Princess Seams into the design (well, actually since I m busty, all my dress have Princess Seams) after seeing others who
                Message 7 of 10 , Feb 16, 2013
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                  Sarah Strong <sarahstrong13@...> wrote:
                  > The dress pattern would need to be princess seams, possibly with
                  > added gores but preferably just really flared lower skirts.


                  Yub yub. ;)
                  I'm planning to put Princess Seams into the design (well, actually since I'm busty, all my dress have Princess Seams) after seeing others who had done it "correctly" had it too.
                  Also will have additional panels added in between the Seams to increase the bottom flare so it'll be close to Full Circle. :P

                  Something like this tho' the part where it flares out isn't suppose to be that "tight" (ya, I need to do Sketch Version 3.0 to correct the error I made in V2 Sketch)
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/Sith_Haldir/Cosplay/Stseiya/Sasha_Athena3/WIP/sasha_s2_design2.jpg
                  (Ps : The Tight Sleeves seen sew to the Armhole isn't suppose to be in the original dress design. I have it, made from regular Illusion Cloth, cause I dun like to expose my Upper Arm skin as it's too pockmarked @_@ )


                  Fatimah
                • darth_eagle
                  ... Am still waiting for a reply to my enquires but guess she might be busy right now with a project to unable to reply in details and it onlu been like 2 days
                  Message 8 of 10 , Feb 16, 2013
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                    Silvara <silvaragreenleaf@...> wrote:
                    > if you could ask on the fabric type she usually shares that info since the how to seems to he tackled already.


                    Am still waiting for a reply to my enquires but guess she might be busy right now with a project to unable to reply in details and it onlu been like 2 days since I last asked. :/

                    Fatimah
                  • darth_eagle
                    ... Thanks for the advice :) Will do that when I sew it to the Tube top ;) Fatimah
                    Message 9 of 10 , Feb 16, 2013
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                      Pierre & Sandy Pettinger <costumrs@...> wrote:
                      > Also, when you stitch the gathered netting to the tube, first, work
                      > from the bottom up. Second, lay the netting so the bottom edge
                      > points toward the waist. Stitch it to the tube, then let the netting
                      > fall over the stitching to lay the correct way. This both hides the
                      > stitching and the raw edges (less snags), and gives more fullness and
                      > springiness because you have essentially doubled the depth of the
                      > gathering at the attachment point.

                      Thanks for the advice :)
                      Will do that when I sew it to the Tube top ;)

                      Fatimah
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