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Re: [F-Costume] regarding the large bust/Victorian bodice problem

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  • Carol Kocian
    I like the idea of a soft corset. The bones in a corset are what holds it up, so something softer would need shoulder straps to do that. I ve seen women get
    Message 1 of 6 , Jan 18, 2013
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      I like the idea of a soft "corset." The bones in a corset are what
      holds it up, so something softer would need shoulder straps to do
      that. I've seen women get some shaping just with canvas and no boning
      at all. It would act like a longline bra: with the support coming
      from the midriff, it would not have to be as tight as the band of a bra.

      The problem with building the support into the bodice, expecting the
      bodice to do the work, is that you can end up with stress wrinkles.
      You really would need a firm inner layer, and in that case might as
      well make it a separate piece.

      There are visual tricks you can do to give the illusion of a
      different shape. A light colored dress with a darker sash will give
      her more of a waistline. If you make a sash that actually ties, you
      can adjust it depending on how she's doing that day. The sash could
      even be pointed, a chevron or V shape in the center, for a more
      interesting look.

      Someone mentioned princess seams. A lighter center panel will create
      a longer, leaner illusion. The center panel could also have ruching
      or some other trimming to draw the eye. There are lots of great
      designers on this list, so maybe there will be more design and
      trimming ideas.

      -Carol


      On Jan 18, 2013, at 2:39 AM, Cat Devereaux wrote:

      > On 1/17/2013 9:23 PM, Melody wrote:
      >> thanks to all who answered my query re:the Vic.Bodice problem. I got
      >> some great ideas and suggestions. Some suggested a corset, would be
      >> fine for normal people, Aspergers people sometimes are not able to
      >> tolerate confining garments wrapped tightly about them ,so to the
      >> "proper foundation" folks,sorry that idea won't fly,in her case. All
      >> the support must be built into the bodice, sometimes her personal bra
      >> cannot be fastened tightly or a meltdown occurs.
      > IF a bra won't work, agree a corset won't work. BUT, corsets don't
      > have
      > to be done tightly. My sister has scoliosis, so I just built around
      > that and WOULD NOT lace tight at all.
      >
      > Also, if you use cable ties, you get a much softer, more bendy corset.
      > The only really stiff part has to be the bust in front.
      >
      > You might make one up w/ a fun fashion color and see if she can
      > wear it
      > as "practice".
      >
      > While I don't recommend popping off a corset, if she really had to,
      > the
      > bust could be loosened a notch at a time. Talk to her about it and
      > maybe she could gradually move forward on it.
      >
      > If you do choose to try corset training... BIG RULE... it goes on
      > before any food or water. Lace it in two steps at least 15 minutes
      > apart... even if you're doing light lacing.
      > ******************************************
      > OK, after all that said... other option...
      >
      > 1) take and build one of her old bras into the bodice. If you line it
      > you can hide the bra strap in the middle and let the bra ends just
      > come
      > out the back about an inch from the center back. So, you put on
      > the top
      > together. Fasten the bra, and then fasten the back of the dress.
      > (Just
      > did that on a recent bridal gown for a lady w/ a larger bust who
      > wanted
      > to be able to do any style of dance, or dipping and still be secure.)
      >
      > 2) Soft bone the bodice w/ cable ties -- the only problem w/ this is
      > there isn't a good way to remove the bones if they bother her....
      > which
      > is why I think a gentle corset is better for shaping.
      >
      > And as folk mentioned before have a chemise under the corset.... or at
      > least a cotton tank top. (Natural fabrics absorb sweat and if the
      > bodice, or corset get to be too much... you can quickly help peal off
      > the layers and still beat modern standards.)
      > ***************************************************
      >
      > Basically, one step at a time, and practice in advance.... and be
      > prepared for anything.
      >
      > -Cat-
    • Melody Watts
      Cat: Thank you the built in bra idea ! It may just be the solution I couldn t find I m going to do a mock up with her present strapless bra in the bodice I
      Message 2 of 6 , Jan 20, 2013
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        Cat: Thank you the built in bra idea ! It may just be the solution I couldn't find
        I'm going to do a "mock up" with her present strapless bra in the bodice I made and see if it meshes and works for her.
        Thanks again to your wonderful ,pickable brain!
        melody
         Ps I make regular "V" shaped darts at the bust point and modified banana shaped darts at the waist front. Do you think a princess dart/cut might be a better choice in the future?
        melody

        " But, WHY, is the Rum all gone?:


        From: Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@...>
        Subject: Re: [F-Costume] regarding the large bust/Victorian bodice problem



         



        On 1/17/2013 9:23 PM, Melody wrote:
        > thanks to all who answered my query re:the Vic.Bodice problem. I got
        > some great ideas and suggestions. Some suggested a corset, would be
        > fine for normal people, Aspergers people sometimes are not able to
        > tolerate confining garments wrapped tightly about them ,
         Cat:   If OK, after all that said... other option...

        1) take and build one of her old bras into the bodice. If you line it
        you can hide the bra strap in the middle and let the bra ends just come
        out the back about an inch from the center back. So, you put on the top
        together. Fasten the bra, and then fasten the back of the dress. (Just
        did that on a recent bridal gown for a lady w/ a larger bust who wanted
        to be able to do any style of dance, or dipping and still be secure.)

        ***************************************************

        -Cat-







        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Ann Garner
        ... . When I make darts, I never make V darts. The body is not straight lines. Even if the dart on the pattern is V, I still curve it, to fit the body. I
        Message 3 of 6 , Jan 21, 2013
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          At 09:12 PM 1/20/2013, you wrote:

          >Â Ps I make regular "V" shaped darts at the bust
          >point and modified banana shaped darts at the
          >waist front. Do you think a princess dart/cut
          >might be a better choice in the future?
          >melody
          .
          When I make darts, I never make "V" darts. The
          body is not straight lines. Even if the dart on
          the pattern is V, I still curve it, to fit the
          body. I apply this to any sewing of garments
          with darts. I took a pattern modifying class,
          and this one thing was worth the class.
          Ann in Arkansas
        • Cat Devereaux
          ... That double dart is the easiest to slide into if you ve never made pattern adjustments before. But if you re comfortable w/ it, it s easy to move on from
          Message 4 of 6 , Jan 21, 2013
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            On 1/21/2013 5:02 PM, Ann Garner wrote:
            > >Â Ps I make regular "V" shaped darts at the bust
            > >point and modified banana shaped darts at the
            > >waist front. Do you think a princess dart/cut
            > >might be a better choice in the future?
            >
            That double dart is the easiest to slide into if you've never made
            pattern adjustments before. But if you're comfortable w/ it, it's easy
            to move on from there.

            Turn that fitting inside out... and take the darts to a join point at
            the apex of the bust -- the center sticky-out point. It won't exactly
            be two straight lines and the small curve, but close.

            > When I make darts, I never make "V" darts. The
            > body is not straight lines. Even if the dart on
            > the pattern is V, I still curve it, to fit the
            > body. I apply this to any sewing of garments
            > with darts. I took a pattern modifying class,
            > and this one thing was worth the class.
            And on to step two, Make those prince pieces a bit more curved...

            -Cat-
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