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Need help with VIctorian Bodice for large bust

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  • Melody
    Hi, I need help with a large problem,actually 2 large problems,but I digress. My daughter is a 47 F cup, she is 5 1 and short waisted her waist is 38 ,hip
    Message 1 of 12 , Jan 15, 2013
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      Hi, I need help with a large problem,actually 2 large problems,but I digress. My daughter is a 47" F cup, she is 5'1" and short waisted her waist is 38 ,hip 46. She has very small width shoulders also to further complicate it.
      I have been very unsuccessfully trying to create a Victorian ball gown bodice. None of the patterns I have go up to her boobage diminsions.
      she is only 26 so she does not want to appear "frumpy old ladyish" but trying to construct a fashionable,stable top is eluding me. We do "Court of Steam" at the QueenMary SteamPunk Symposium once a yearand we need a Ball gown,I am trying to utalize the "skirt,day jacket,matching ball gown bodice" technique for reasons of fundage. I slapped together a quasi ball bodice from her renfaire middle class bodice.It was passsible,but not "pretty". We cannot get a "V'neck"to work,the "girls" keep wanting to escape ,also the mass creates some meeting of the waist and chest area. we tried yanking those bra straps up as high as we could go.afraid a full corset will only make the girls oveflow the top. She cannot tolerate anything high or tight around her body or neck area (Aspergers)
      HELP!!!
      much thanks for any ideas,leads, back pats......
      melody
    • Sheree
      Hi Melody! A properly fitted corset is the key. If its made for her and cinched right the girls shouldn t overflow the top. There is a Truly Victorian pattern
      Message 2 of 12 , Jan 15, 2013
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        Hi Melody! A properly fitted corset is the key. If its made for her and cinched right the girls shouldn't overflow the top. There is a Truly Victorian pattern for a well endowed lady corset.

        I've had some success building a fitted (not tight) bodice using a pattern I made off a store bought collared shirt that fit me well. You could search Good Will for a shirt that fits perfect then pull it apart to make the pattern.

        But in the end the best fit always comes from well fitting under garments.

        Sheree

        On Jan 15, 2013, at 3:01 PM, "Melody" <hobbitmomof4@...> wrote:

        > Hi, I need help with a large problem,actually 2 large problems,but I digress. My daughter is a 47" F cup, she is 5'1" and short waisted her waist is 38 ,hip 46. She has very small width shoulders also to further complicate it.
        > I have been very unsuccessfully trying to create a Victorian ball gown bodice. None of the patterns I have go up to her boobage diminsions.
        > she is only 26 so she does not want to appear "frumpy old ladyish" but trying to construct a fashionable,stable top is eluding me. We do "Court of Steam" at the QueenMary SteamPunk Symposium once a yearand we need a Ball gown,I am trying to utalize the "skirt,day jacket,matching ball gown bodice" technique for reasons of fundage. I slapped together a quasi ball bodice from her renfaire middle class bodice.It was passsible,but not "pretty". We cannot get a "V'neck"to work,the "girls" keep wanting to escape ,also the mass creates some meeting of the waist and chest area. we tried yanking those bra straps up as high as we could go.afraid a full corset will only make the girls oveflow the top. She cannot tolerate anything high or tight around her body or neck area (Aspergers)
        > HELP!!!
        > much thanks for any ideas,leads, back pats......
        > melody
        >
        >


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Elizabeth Phillips
        Princess line bodices can be adjusted for a very large bust more easily than most other lines.  I m trying to find something online for you, but this is
        Message 3 of 12 , Jan 15, 2013
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          Princess line bodices can be adjusted for a very large bust more easily than most other lines.  I'm trying to find something online for you, but this is about the best I could find.  http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/24348/full-bust-fix%c2%a0 Lots of books have much better fitting instructions.  Here are a couple:
           
          http://www.amazon.com/Fit-Real-People-Clothes-Pattern/dp/0935278656/ref=sr_1_8?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1358282462&sr=1-8&keywords=sewing+alterations
           
          http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Photo-Guide-Perfect-Fitting/dp/1589236084/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1358282462&sr=1-1&keywords=sewing+alterations


          ________________________________
          From: Melody <hobbitmomof4@...>
          To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2013 3:01 PM
          Subject: [F-Costume] Need help with VIctorian Bodice for large bust

          Hi, I need help with a large problem,actually 2 large problems,but I digress. My daughter is a 47" F cup, she is 5'1" and short waisted her waist is 38 ,hip 46. She has very small width shoulders also to further complicate it.
          I have been very unsuccessfully trying to create a Victorian ball gown bodice. None of the patterns I have go up to her boobage diminsions.
          she is only 26 so she does not want to appear "frumpy old ladyish" but trying to construct a fashionable,stable top is eluding me. We do "Court of Steam" at the QueenMary SteamPunk Symposium once a yearand we need a Ball gown,I am trying to utalize the "skirt,day jacket,matching ball gown bodice" technique for reasons of fundage. I slapped together a quasi ball bodice  from her renfaire middle class bodice.It was passsible,but not "pretty". We cannot get a "V'neck"to work,the "girls" keep wanting to escape ,also the mass creates some meeting of the waist and chest area. we tried yanking those bra straps up as high as we could go.afraid a full corset will only make the girls oveflow the top. She cannot tolerate anything high or tight around her body or neck area (Aspergers)
          HELP!!!
          much thanks for any ideas,leads, back pats......
          melody



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          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Cat Devereaux
          ... Given that she s VERY different from the patterns... maybe you should start with a duct tape pattern so you ve got her shape, and then merge it into a
          Message 4 of 12 , Jan 15, 2013
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            On 1/15/2013 12:01 PM, Melody wrote:
            > Hi, I need help with a large problem,actually 2 large problems,but I
            > digress. My daughter is a 47" F cup, she is 5'1" and short waisted her
            > waist is 38 ,hip 46. She has very small width shoulders also to
            > further complicate it.
            Given that she's VERY different from the patterns... maybe you should
            start with a duct tape pattern so you've got her shape, and then merge
            it into a corset pattern.

            You really do want to start w/ the corset. Get it right, and she's got
            the "foundations" for a number of outfits. I'll second the Truly
            Victorian patterns. http://trulyvictorian.com/LM100.html . Though it
            sounds like you have some tweaking ahead anyway.

            A corset pattern is not always just long bones up the front... you'll
            make a good cup and the breasts will rest in the cup. The outfits you
            see w/ that weird shelf, or breasts up to their neck is ill-fitting
            corsets or tight lacing. You don't have to tight lace to wear a
            corset. You just pull it enough to get a rounder waist, and give the
            breasts proper support.

            OK... back to the t-shirt and duct tape.... It's wrapped a bit
            different than the ren-fair patterning you may be used to. Have her
            wear a bra that puts the breasts where you want them, and a t-shirt that
            is looser (or at least doesn't pull)... for the larger folks, that may
            mean sacrificing a night shirt. ... or cutting the sides in advance and
            then just taping the seams closed.

            (If you search this list, you'll find more details on taping a pattern,
            so here I'm just touching the mods from doing the famous ren-fair bodice
            pattern.)

            Tape the breast area first. Use strips about 1 1/2 feet long max. Do
            the cross-you-heart x taping first... then keep laying pieces down. Pay
            special attention to the cup shape under and over. For taping the
            stomach and back... go for smooth over the bulk, not exact shape. You
            can lay vertical pieces of tape down first to help.

            When you're done, use a perminate market to mark center front, back and
            sides. Draw the waist line, your top of corset line, and under the bust
            cup line. Couldn't hurt to also draw in the neck for the bodice.

            Carefully cut her out.

            Things get a bit more complicated now because you want to do both corset
            and bodice from this. Look at ;your corset pattern for all the extra
            seaming so you know where you're going to cut. On the breast cups, you
            may end up separating the cup into more triangles to to get shaping.
            That's all OK.

            Draw in your corset cut lines. BEFORE YOU CUT... label EVERY PIECE,
            including the cut away bits. Label carefully unless you like jig-saw
            patterns since you'll lightly tape this back together to work on the
            bodice as well.

            With your pieces cut like the corset, you can see how you're going to
            reshape the corset pieces. You will be making them a bit narrower, but
            remember the goal is stability, not tightness. Breast cups won't change
            in size. And a think I discovered when working on someone largely
            endowed... those w/ a lot in the front, have more muscle in the upper
            back too. So you'll be taking less off the top of the seams than the
            bottom too.

            When it's time to make the bodice... remember, it's just a guide. By
            this point... the underpinnings will be chemise, corset, corset cover
            (and petticoats)... so your duct tape will be smaller than what you
            need... but still it's a guide to shaping your pattern pieces. Guess,
            and then drape the muslin so you can make a real pattern.

            Don't forget to label all your pattern pieces. Also include a sheet w/
            the date and her current measurements so that when you go back to this
            pattern you know what you might need to be adjusting from.

            -Cat-
          • Nightwing Whitehead
            Milady *needs* a corset!  Not a pseudo-corset that sort of maybe kind of almost does it, a real corset that will confine what should be confined and support
            Message 5 of 12 , Jan 15, 2013
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              Milady *needs* a corset!  Not a pseudo-corset that sort of maybe kind of almost does it, a real corset that will confine what should be confined and support what should be supported.  They come in many styles from under the bust to demi to full cover to sweetheart.  Where do you live?  I may be able to direct your path to a corset-fitter near you.


              --- On Tue, 1/15/13, Melody <hobbitmomof4@...> wrote:

              From: Melody <hobbitmomof4@...>
              Subject: [F-Costume] Need help with VIctorian Bodice for large bust
              To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
              Date: Tuesday, January 15, 2013, 3:01 PM
















               









              Hi, I need help with a large problem,actually 2 large problems,but I digress. My daughter is a 47" F cup, she is 5'1" and short waisted her waist is 38 ,hip 46. She has very small width shoulders also to further complicate it.

              I have been very unsuccessfully trying to create a Victorian ball gown bodice. None of the patterns I have go up to her boobage diminsions.

              she is only 26 so she does not want to appear "frumpy old ladyish" but trying to construct a fashionable,stable top is eluding me. We do "Court of Steam" at the QueenMary SteamPunk Symposium once a yearand we need a Ball gown,I am trying to utalize the "skirt,day jacket,matching ball gown bodice" technique for reasons of fundage. I slapped together a quasi ball bodice from her renfaire middle class bodice.It was passsible,but not "pretty". We cannot get a "V'neck"to work,the "girls" keep wanting to escape ,also the mass creates some meeting of the waist and chest area. we tried yanking those bra straps up as high as we could go.afraid a full corset will only make the girls oveflow the top. She cannot tolerate anything high or tight around her body or neck area (Aspergers)

              HELP!!!

              much thanks for any ideas,leads, back pats......

              melody



























              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Daniel Sanders
              Hi Melody. If I read the end of your post correctly, you re saying a corset is out of the question, right? Is there a way to make it more quasi Victorian and
              Message 6 of 12 , Jan 15, 2013
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                Hi Melody. If I read the end of your post correctly, you're saying a corset is out of the question, right? Is there a way to make it more quasi Victorian and add in more of the steam punk idea into the evening top?

                On Jan 15, 2013, at 3:01 PM, "Melody" <hobbitmomof4@...> wrote:

                > Hi, I need help with a large problem,actually 2 large problems,but I digress. My daughter is a 47" F cup, she is 5'1" and short waisted her waist is 38 ,hip 46. She has very small width shoulders also to further complicate it.
                > I have been very unsuccessfully trying to create a Victorian ball gown bodice. None of the patterns I have go up to her boobage diminsions.
                > she is only 26 so she does not want to appear "frumpy old ladyish" but trying to construct a fashionable,stable top is eluding me. We do "Court of Steam" at the QueenMary SteamPunk Symposium once a yearand we need a Ball gown,I am trying to utalize the "skirt,day jacket,matching ball gown bodice" technique for reasons of fundage. I slapped together a quasi ball bodice from her renfaire middle class bodice.It was passsible,but not "pretty". We cannot get a "V'neck"to work,the "girls" keep wanting to escape ,also the mass creates some meeting of the waist and chest area. we tried yanking those bra straps up as high as we could go.afraid a full corset will only make the girls oveflow the top. She cannot tolerate anything high or tight around her body or neck area (Aspergers)
                > HELP!!!
                > much thanks for any ideas,leads, back pats......
                > melody
                >
                >


                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Carol Kocian
                As others are saying, you need to create the shape with undergarments first. If she can t wear a corset, then you have to make it work with what you have. The
                Message 7 of 12 , Jan 15, 2013
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                  As others are saying, you need to create the shape with undergarments
                  first. If she can't wear a corset, then you have to make it work with
                  what you have.

                  The Victorian era is a pretty big span of time. Is there a specific
                  era you're aiming for?

                  I think the 1830s are more youthful looking, less structured than,
                  say, the 80s. Lightweight, light colored fabrics and flounces will
                  look young and pretty. While you don't need a high neckline, it can
                  be to the collarbone or filled in with gauze — which will not be tight.

                  -Carol


                  > On Jan 15, 2013, at 3:01 PM, "Melody" <hobbitmomof4@...> wrote:
                  >
                  >> Hi, I need help with a large problem,actually 2 large problems,but
                  >> I digress. My daughter is a 47" F cup, she is 5'1" and short
                  >> waisted her waist is 38 ,hip 46. She has very small width
                  >> shoulders also to further complicate it.
                  >> I have been very unsuccessfully trying to create a Victorian ball
                  >> gown bodice. None of the patterns I have go up to her boobage
                  >> diminsions.
                  >> she is only 26 so she does not want to appear "frumpy old ladyish"
                  >> but trying to construct a fashionable, stable top is eluding me.
                  >> We do "Court of Steam" at the QueenMary SteamPunk Symposium once a
                  >> year and we need a Ball gown, I am trying to utalize the "skirt,
                  >> day jacket, matching ball gown bodice" technique for reasons of
                  >> fundage. I slapped together a quasi ball bodice from her renfaire
                  >> middle class bodice. It was passsible,but not "pretty". We cannot
                  >> get a "V'neck"to work, the "girls" keep wanting to escape, also
                  >> the mass creates some meeting of the waist and chest area. we
                  >> tried yanking those bra straps up as high as we could go. afraid a
                  >> full corset will only make the girls oveflow the top. She cannot
                  >> tolerate anything high or tight around her body or neck area
                  >> (Aspergers)
                  >> HELP!!!
                  >> much thanks for any ideas,leads, back pats......
                  >> melody
                • Melody Watts
                  Hi Carol, thanks for the reply. Our Bio says it s 1845, but our group with the exception of me, haven t a clue what Victorian fashions cover...so we run the
                  Message 8 of 12 , Jan 17, 2013
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                    Hi Carol, thanks for the reply. Our "Bio" says it's 1845, but our group with the exception of me, haven't a clue what Victorian fashions cover...so we run the gambit of quasi civil war hoop to 1890 Bustle gowns..sometimes (horrors!) mixing the together(I always just blame the "SteamPunk" aspect for that.or my sostumers brain would explode ; > )
                    I try to make seperates to deal withthe uneven sizes of top & bottom,SO I have made a simple dropped shoulder jacket /carriage bodice for day wear with simple store bought vintage look  blouses underneath
                    , I also scour the 2nd hand stores for items to"remake" to look appropriate.". Found a little black jacket that worked. But the ballgown top eluded me. I added black lace ruffles to the ren bodice base at the neckline ,armholes and drop waistline May try the gauze fichu to fill the "gaposis" I have happen with her necklines. thanks for thei deas
                     
                    But, WHY, is the Rum all gone?"

                    --- On Tue, 1/15/13, Carol Kocian <aquazoo@...> wrote:


                    From: Carol Kocian <aquazoo@...>
                    Subject: Re: [F-Costume] Need help with VIctorian Bodice for large bust
                    To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
                    Date: Tuesday, January 15, 2013, 5:44 PM



                    As others are saying, you need to create the shape with undergarments 
                    first. If she can't wear a corset, then you have to make it work with 
                    what you have.

                    The Victorian era is a pretty big span of time. Is there a specific 
                    era you're aiming for?

                    I think the 1830s are more youthful looking, less structured than, 
                    say, the 80s. Lightweight, light colored fabrics and flounces will 
                    look young and pretty. While you don't need a high neckline, it can 
                    be to the collarbone or filled in with gauze — which will not be tight.

                    -Carol


                    > On Jan 15, 2013, at 3:01 PM, "Melody" <hobbitmomof4@...> wrote:
                    >
                    >> Hi, I need help with a large problem,actually 2 large problems,but 
                    >> I digress. My daughter is a 47" F cup, she is 5'1" and short 
                    >> waisted her waist is 38 ,hip 46. She has very small width 
                    >> shoulders also to further complicate it.
                    >> >> melody


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                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Melody Watts
                    I now have a yr to work on this now as it  is only in Jan. of each yr.will be collecting ideas and prototyping ideas. If U think of any ,pls feel free to
                    Message 9 of 12 , Jan 17, 2013
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                      I now have a yr to work on this now as it  is only in Jan. of each yr.will be collecting ideas and prototyping ideas. If U think of any ,pls feel free to forward them on


                      " But, WHY, is the Rum all gone?"

                      --- On Tue, 1/15/13, Daniel Sanders <daniel.marcus.sanders@...> wrote:


                      From: Daniel Sanders <daniel.marcus.sanders@...>
                      Subject: Re: [F-Costume] Need help with VIctorian Bodice for large bust
                      To: "F-Costume@yahoogroups.com" <F-Costume@yahoogroups.com>
                      Date: Tuesday, January 15, 2013, 3:17 PM


                      Hi Melody. If I read the end of your post correctly, you're saying a corset is out of the question, right? Is there a way to make it more quasi Victorian and add in more of the steam punk idea into the evening top?

                      On Jan 15, 2013, at 3:01 PM, "Melody" <hobbitmomof4@...> wrote:

                      > Hi, I need help with a large problem,actually 2 large problems,but I digress. My daughter is a 47" F cup, she is 5'1" and short waisted her waist is 38 ,hip 46. She has very small width shoulders also to further complicate it.
                      > I have been very unsuccessfully trying to create a Victorian ball gown bodice.  > melody
                      >
                      >


                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                      ------------------------------------

                      Yahoo! Groups Links





                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • Melody Watts
                      Please see high lighted  *** notation. thanks But, WHY, is the Rum all gone? ... From: Nightwing Whitehead Subject: Re:
                      Message 10 of 12 , Jan 17, 2013
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                        Please see high lighted  *** notation. thanks


                        " But, WHY, is the Rum all gone?"

                        --- On Tue, 1/15/13, Nightwing Whitehead <nightwingwhitehead@...> wrote:


                        From: Nightwing Whitehead <nightwingwhitehead@...>
                        Subject: Re: [F-Costume] Need help with VIctorian Bodice for large bust
                        To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
                        Date: Tuesday, January 15, 2013, 2:30 PM



                         



                        Milady *needs* a corset!  Not a pseudo-corset that sort of maybe kind of almost does it, a real corset that will confine what should be confined and support what should be supported.  They come in many styles from under the bust to demi to full cover to sweetheart.  Where do you live?  I may be able to direct your path to a corset-fitter near you.

                        --- On Tue, 1/15/13, Melody hobbitmomof4@...> wrote:

                        From: Melody hobbitmomof4@...>
                        Subject: [F-Costume] Need help with VIctorian Bodice for large bust
                        To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
                        Date: Tuesday, January 15, 2013, 3:01 PM

                         
                        ***She cannot tolerate anything high or tight around her body or neck area (Aspergers)


                        need help with a large problem,,My daughter is a 47" F cup, she is 5'1" and short waisted her waist is 38 ,hip 46. She has very small width shoulders also to further complicate it.

                        I have been very unsuccessfully trying to create a Victorian ball gown bodice. None of the patterns I have go up to her boobage diminsions.

                         
                        much thanks for any ideas,leads, back pats......

                        melody









                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • Nightwing Whitehead
                        Sorry, I saw that after I sent my response (what I get for reading emails in he dead of the night).  I didn t correct it then as I wanted to be able to offer
                        Message 11 of 12 , Jan 18, 2013
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                          Sorry, I saw that after I sent my response (what I get for reading emails in he dead of the night).  I didn't correct it then as I wanted to be able to offer a better solution when I did, but I have no clear ideas as to how to best solve this.  I keep seeing layers of lace but nothing concrete enough to pass along yet.


                          --- On Fri, 1/18/13, Melody Watts <hobbitmomof4@...> wrote:

                          From: Melody Watts <hobbitmomof4@...>
                          Subject: Re: [F-Costume] Need help with VIctorian Bodice for large bust
                          To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
                          Date: Friday, January 18, 2013, 12:13 AM
















                           









                          Please see high lighted  *** notation. thanks



                          " But, WHY, is the Rum all gone?"



                          --- On Tue, 1/15/13, Nightwing Whitehead nightwingwhitehead@...> wrote:



                          From: Nightwing Whitehead nightwingwhitehead@...>

                          Subject: Re: [F-Costume] Need help with VIctorian Bodice for large bust

                          To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com

                          Date: Tuesday, January 15, 2013, 2:30 PM



                           



                          Milady *needs* a corset!  Not a pseudo-corset that sort of maybe kind of almost does it, a real corset that will confine what should be confined and support what should be supported.  They come in many styles from under the bust to demi to full cover to sweetheart.  Where do you live?  I may be able to direct your path to a corset-fitter near you.



                          --- On Tue, 1/15/13, Melody hobbitmomof4@...> wrote:



                          From: Melody hobbitmomof4@...>

                          Subject: [F-Costume] Need help with VIctorian Bodice for large bust

                          To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com

                          Date: Tuesday, January 15, 2013, 3:01 PM



                           

                          ***She cannot tolerate anything high or tight around her body or neck area (Aspergers)



                          need help with a large problem,,My daughter is a 47" F cup, she is 5'1" and short waisted her waist is 38 ,hip 46. She has very small width shoulders also to further complicate it.



                          I have been very unsuccessfully trying to create a Victorian ball gown bodice. None of the patterns I have go up to her boobage diminsions.



                           

                          much thanks for any ideas,leads, back pats......



                          melody



                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



























                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        • Daniel Sanders
                          Well, did I read correctly in another post that the event is showcasing the year 1845? ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          Message 12 of 12 , Jan 18, 2013
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                            Well, did I read correctly in another post that the event is showcasing the year 1845?

                            <<<I now have a yr to work on this now as it is only in Jan. of each yr.will be collecting ideas and prototyping ideas. If U think of any ,pls feel free to forward them on>>>
                            >


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