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Re: Patterning for a full figure

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  • ellen_rustad
    Thanks!
    Message 1 of 9 , Oct 6, 2012
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      Thanks!
      --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Jim or Chris Porter <jimchris_porter@...> wrote:
      >
      > Ellen-
      >
      > My go to book for adjustments like this is the Singer Sewing Reference Library's The Perfect Fit. Depending on how your pattern is seamed you need to add extra length to go out and over the bust as well as extra width to go around it.
      >
      > If you cannot find a copy of the book, this link http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/2008/05/full-bust-alterations-or-adjustments-fba/ seems to cover some of the alterations (no pun intended).
      >
      > Best of luck!
      >
      > -Chris
      >
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
    • ellen_rustad
      Thanks for the advice. I will have to try this1 ellen
      Message 2 of 9 , Oct 6, 2012
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        Thanks for the advice. I will have to try this1
        ellen
        --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@...> wrote:
        >
        > On 10/6/2012 8:43 AM, Ellen wrote:
        > > I thought I may get some solutions from the many minds on this forum.
        > > I am making the Party City Queen of Hearts costume for my future
        > > daughter-in-law. I can modify my Elizabethan pattern, but my problem
        > > is the bodice
        > Besides just trying the "alter the pattern" method... there's the old
        > t-shirt/sleep shirt and duct tape method. Used to do this like crazy
        > before a lot of ren bodice patterns for different sizes came out...
        >
        > She needs a t-shirt that is too large (ie not stretching across areas.
        > (That's why sometimes an old night shirt may work better.)
        >
        > Have her wear a regular t or tank and wearing a bra that gives her a
        > good shape. If you've got a boned bodice or corset, even if it doesn't
        > fit, put that on next. Apply a bit of tape to keep it in the right
        > spot. Then put on the sacrificial T. Tape... bust and shoulder area
        > first. Tape strips should be no more than the length of your arm. You
        > can be a bit taught in the bust area. Don't make it too tight in the
        > waist area, but you can average out to get clean lines. Tape only a bit
        > below the waist. You're using less tape than you would on making a
        > dummy. You just need to cover the t fabric.
        >
        > Once you've got the body covered w/ enough tape... mark shoulder lines,
        > under arm lines... front back and side seams. Label the pieces while
        > on her. Mark registry points. (Think those notches on regular
        > patterns.) Cut her out. Cut down the tape those seam lines. Notice in
        > front it's not laying straight... design if you want darts, or princess
        > shaping... draw and cut.
        >
        > Once you have basic pattern pieces, lay each pair together on top of an
        > old sheet or muslin. True them up to get an average so the pieces are
        > the same and not so wrinkly. Add seam allowances and test.
        >
        >
        > There are times when it takes 3 times as long to alter a pattern w/
        > math. One thing doing this... Get those muslin pieces done quickly.
        > W/ just minimal tape it's going to be less stable, and the way weather
        > is being so weird right now... hot/cold/hot and back again... it's
        > better to not worry about the shrinking/breathing you'll get from the
        > tape. You can actually test it another day, but I do recommend the true
        > up step the same day as the cut.
        >
        > -Cat-
        >
      • Ann Garner
        ... I second this thank you. This no doubt will come in handy at some time. Ann in Arkansas
        Message 3 of 9 , Oct 7, 2012
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          At 10:40 PM 10/6/2012, you wrote:
          >
          >
          >
          >Thanks for the advice. I will have to try this1
          >ellen

          I second this thank you. This no doubt will come in handy at some time.
          Ann in Arkansas
        • Sarah Strong
          Agree that this may be the easiest-fastest way to get a jump on a pattern that fits. And if you don t happen to have a tshirt to sacrifice that is big enough
          Message 4 of 9 , Oct 8, 2012
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            Agree that this may be the easiest-fastest way to get a jump on a
            pattern that fits. And if you don't happen to have a tshirt to sacrifice
            that is big enough to fit loosely, and don't have a chance to get one at
            the goodwill, you can also use a length of muslin or other woven fabric,
            just cut a keyhole neckline opening in the center, and tape the sides
            together. You can trim around the arms if you have to, so it lies flat
            against the body in the armscye area.
            S
          • Ellen
            Thanks, that may be easier on her! However, I am not going to get this all done before Halloween, and she and I are in agreement on that. This will make a
            Message 5 of 9 , Oct 11, 2012
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              Thanks, that may be easier on her!
              However, I am not going to get this all done before Halloween, and she and I are in agreement on that. This will make a great winter project, and I plan on doing it anyway.

              Thanks to all who responded to my request!

              Ellen
              --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Sarah Strong <sarahstrong13@...> wrote:
              >
              > Agree that this may be the easiest-fastest way to get a jump on a
              > pattern that fits. And if you don't happen to have a tshirt to sacrifice
              > that is big enough to fit loosely, and don't have a chance to get one at
              > the goodwill, you can also use a length of muslin or other woven fabric,
              > just cut a keyhole neckline opening in the center, and tape the sides
              > together. You can trim around the arms if you have to, so it lies flat
              > against the body in the armscye area.
              > S
              >
            • Ellen
              I did this today....made a duct tape pattern on the dear girl using an old sheet and lots of duct tape. Drew seam lines, cut it off-only nicked her twice, and
              Message 6 of 9 , Oct 17, 2012
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                I did this today....made a duct tape pattern on the dear girl using an old sheet and lots of duct tape. Drew seam lines, cut it off-only nicked her twice, and pulled tape off skin once- made a fabric mock up, sewed it and tried it on...IT WORKED! I was so pleased! thanks to all the awesome minds here!
                Now I want one for myself to get my patterns to fit better.

                Thanks one and all, I may get this done before Halloween!


                Ellen
                --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Ellen" <ellen_rustad@...> wrote:
                >
                >
                > Thanks, that may be easier on her!
                > However, I am not going to get this all done before Halloween, and she and I are in agreement on that. This will make a great winter project, and I plan on doing it anyway.
                >
                > Thanks to all who responded to my request!
                >
                > Ellen
                > --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Sarah Strong <sarahstrong13@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Agree that this may be the easiest-fastest way to get a jump on a
                > > pattern that fits. And if you don't happen to have a tshirt to sacrifice
                > > that is big enough to fit loosely, and don't have a chance to get one at
                > > the goodwill, you can also use a length of muslin or other woven fabric,
                > > just cut a keyhole neckline opening in the center, and tape the sides
                > > together. You can trim around the arms if you have to, so it lies flat
                > > against the body in the armscye area.
                > > S
                > >
                >
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