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Quick duct tape bodice pattern ( was Re: [F-Costume] Patterning for a full figure

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  • Cat Devereaux
    ... Besides just trying the alter the pattern method... there s the old t-shirt/sleep shirt and duct tape method. Used to do this like crazy before a lot
    Message 1 of 9 , Oct 6, 2012
      On 10/6/2012 8:43 AM, Ellen wrote:
      > I thought I may get some solutions from the many minds on this forum.
      > I am making the Party City Queen of Hearts costume for my future
      > daughter-in-law. I can modify my Elizabethan pattern, but my problem
      > is the bodice
      Besides just trying the "alter the pattern" method... there's the old
      t-shirt/sleep shirt and duct tape method. Used to do this like crazy
      before a lot of ren bodice patterns for different sizes came out...

      She needs a t-shirt that is too large (ie not stretching across areas.
      (That's why sometimes an old night shirt may work better.)

      Have her wear a regular t or tank and wearing a bra that gives her a
      good shape. If you've got a boned bodice or corset, even if it doesn't
      fit, put that on next. Apply a bit of tape to keep it in the right
      spot. Then put on the sacrificial T. Tape... bust and shoulder area
      first. Tape strips should be no more than the length of your arm. You
      can be a bit taught in the bust area. Don't make it too tight in the
      waist area, but you can average out to get clean lines. Tape only a bit
      below the waist. You're using less tape than you would on making a
      dummy. You just need to cover the t fabric.

      Once you've got the body covered w/ enough tape... mark shoulder lines,
      under arm lines... front back and side seams. Label the pieces while
      on her. Mark registry points. (Think those notches on regular
      patterns.) Cut her out. Cut down the tape those seam lines. Notice in
      front it's not laying straight... design if you want darts, or princess
      shaping... draw and cut.

      Once you have basic pattern pieces, lay each pair together on top of an
      old sheet or muslin. True them up to get an average so the pieces are
      the same and not so wrinkly. Add seam allowances and test.


      There are times when it takes 3 times as long to alter a pattern w/
      math. One thing doing this... Get those muslin pieces done quickly.
      W/ just minimal tape it's going to be less stable, and the way weather
      is being so weird right now... hot/cold/hot and back again... it's
      better to not worry about the shrinking/breathing you'll get from the
      tape. You can actually test it another day, but I do recommend the true
      up step the same day as the cut.

      -Cat-
    • ellen_rustad
      Thanks!
      Message 2 of 9 , Oct 6, 2012
        Thanks!
        --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Jim or Chris Porter <jimchris_porter@...> wrote:
        >
        > Ellen-
        >
        > My go to book for adjustments like this is the Singer Sewing Reference Library's The Perfect Fit. Depending on how your pattern is seamed you need to add extra length to go out and over the bust as well as extra width to go around it.
        >
        > If you cannot find a copy of the book, this link http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/2008/05/full-bust-alterations-or-adjustments-fba/ seems to cover some of the alterations (no pun intended).
        >
        > Best of luck!
        >
        > -Chris
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
      • ellen_rustad
        Thanks for the advice. I will have to try this1 ellen
        Message 3 of 9 , Oct 6, 2012
          Thanks for the advice. I will have to try this1
          ellen
          --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@...> wrote:
          >
          > On 10/6/2012 8:43 AM, Ellen wrote:
          > > I thought I may get some solutions from the many minds on this forum.
          > > I am making the Party City Queen of Hearts costume for my future
          > > daughter-in-law. I can modify my Elizabethan pattern, but my problem
          > > is the bodice
          > Besides just trying the "alter the pattern" method... there's the old
          > t-shirt/sleep shirt and duct tape method. Used to do this like crazy
          > before a lot of ren bodice patterns for different sizes came out...
          >
          > She needs a t-shirt that is too large (ie not stretching across areas.
          > (That's why sometimes an old night shirt may work better.)
          >
          > Have her wear a regular t or tank and wearing a bra that gives her a
          > good shape. If you've got a boned bodice or corset, even if it doesn't
          > fit, put that on next. Apply a bit of tape to keep it in the right
          > spot. Then put on the sacrificial T. Tape... bust and shoulder area
          > first. Tape strips should be no more than the length of your arm. You
          > can be a bit taught in the bust area. Don't make it too tight in the
          > waist area, but you can average out to get clean lines. Tape only a bit
          > below the waist. You're using less tape than you would on making a
          > dummy. You just need to cover the t fabric.
          >
          > Once you've got the body covered w/ enough tape... mark shoulder lines,
          > under arm lines... front back and side seams. Label the pieces while
          > on her. Mark registry points. (Think those notches on regular
          > patterns.) Cut her out. Cut down the tape those seam lines. Notice in
          > front it's not laying straight... design if you want darts, or princess
          > shaping... draw and cut.
          >
          > Once you have basic pattern pieces, lay each pair together on top of an
          > old sheet or muslin. True them up to get an average so the pieces are
          > the same and not so wrinkly. Add seam allowances and test.
          >
          >
          > There are times when it takes 3 times as long to alter a pattern w/
          > math. One thing doing this... Get those muslin pieces done quickly.
          > W/ just minimal tape it's going to be less stable, and the way weather
          > is being so weird right now... hot/cold/hot and back again... it's
          > better to not worry about the shrinking/breathing you'll get from the
          > tape. You can actually test it another day, but I do recommend the true
          > up step the same day as the cut.
          >
          > -Cat-
          >
        • Ann Garner
          ... I second this thank you. This no doubt will come in handy at some time. Ann in Arkansas
          Message 4 of 9 , Oct 7, 2012
            At 10:40 PM 10/6/2012, you wrote:
            >
            >
            >
            >Thanks for the advice. I will have to try this1
            >ellen

            I second this thank you. This no doubt will come in handy at some time.
            Ann in Arkansas
          • Sarah Strong
            Agree that this may be the easiest-fastest way to get a jump on a pattern that fits. And if you don t happen to have a tshirt to sacrifice that is big enough
            Message 5 of 9 , Oct 8, 2012
              Agree that this may be the easiest-fastest way to get a jump on a
              pattern that fits. And if you don't happen to have a tshirt to sacrifice
              that is big enough to fit loosely, and don't have a chance to get one at
              the goodwill, you can also use a length of muslin or other woven fabric,
              just cut a keyhole neckline opening in the center, and tape the sides
              together. You can trim around the arms if you have to, so it lies flat
              against the body in the armscye area.
              S
            • Ellen
              Thanks, that may be easier on her! However, I am not going to get this all done before Halloween, and she and I are in agreement on that. This will make a
              Message 6 of 9 , Oct 11, 2012
                Thanks, that may be easier on her!
                However, I am not going to get this all done before Halloween, and she and I are in agreement on that. This will make a great winter project, and I plan on doing it anyway.

                Thanks to all who responded to my request!

                Ellen
                --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Sarah Strong <sarahstrong13@...> wrote:
                >
                > Agree that this may be the easiest-fastest way to get a jump on a
                > pattern that fits. And if you don't happen to have a tshirt to sacrifice
                > that is big enough to fit loosely, and don't have a chance to get one at
                > the goodwill, you can also use a length of muslin or other woven fabric,
                > just cut a keyhole neckline opening in the center, and tape the sides
                > together. You can trim around the arms if you have to, so it lies flat
                > against the body in the armscye area.
                > S
                >
              • Ellen
                I did this today....made a duct tape pattern on the dear girl using an old sheet and lots of duct tape. Drew seam lines, cut it off-only nicked her twice, and
                Message 7 of 9 , Oct 17, 2012
                  I did this today....made a duct tape pattern on the dear girl using an old sheet and lots of duct tape. Drew seam lines, cut it off-only nicked her twice, and pulled tape off skin once- made a fabric mock up, sewed it and tried it on...IT WORKED! I was so pleased! thanks to all the awesome minds here!
                  Now I want one for myself to get my patterns to fit better.

                  Thanks one and all, I may get this done before Halloween!


                  Ellen
                  --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Ellen" <ellen_rustad@...> wrote:
                  >
                  >
                  > Thanks, that may be easier on her!
                  > However, I am not going to get this all done before Halloween, and she and I are in agreement on that. This will make a great winter project, and I plan on doing it anyway.
                  >
                  > Thanks to all who responded to my request!
                  >
                  > Ellen
                  > --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Sarah Strong <sarahstrong13@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > Agree that this may be the easiest-fastest way to get a jump on a
                  > > pattern that fits. And if you don't happen to have a tshirt to sacrifice
                  > > that is big enough to fit loosely, and don't have a chance to get one at
                  > > the goodwill, you can also use a length of muslin or other woven fabric,
                  > > just cut a keyhole neckline opening in the center, and tape the sides
                  > > together. You can trim around the arms if you have to, so it lies flat
                  > > against the body in the armscye area.
                  > > S
                  > >
                  >
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