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Finding patterns (and tweaks) was Re: [F-Costume] Re: I've been bit by the Kate bug! Link enclosed!

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  • Cat Devereaux
    Ah.... spring has final sprung... and a gal s thoughts turn towards dresses... or, that or everyone else talking about Costume Con... those of us not making
    Message 1 of 4 , Apr 25, 2011
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      Ah.... spring has final sprung... and a gal's thoughts turn towards
      dresses... or, that or everyone else talking about Costume Con... those
      of us not making it have to scratch the costume bug....

      (ie, go check out the LOTR board as well... I'm just going to continue
      from her...)

      After semi-ignoring this royal brouha since November, I've been bit by
      the Kate bug! Does anyone here know of a commercially available (i.e.,
      Simplicity, Buttericks, McCalls, Vogue) pattern for the Issa
      'engagement' dress Kate Middleton wore in November? You'd think these
      companies would put those patterns up on their home pages, but it's like
      slogging through mud...

      Dress links:

      For anyone who's been completely under a rock... here's the primmer on
      the craze:

      Ok... yup.. if something is "hot" pattern companies try to get something
      up ASAP... but there's a lag in printed patters. They will make
      something close, and or redo the cover art on something... and get it
      there even faster.

      That said... I looked at the complex seams and though... Vogue might...
      so went and looked on the front page for "new" or "featured"

      Looking for something "copied" from designers... use the 10 foot rule.
      That said... the new stuff from Vogue "screamed" the influence for
      summer dresses, ie they'd chopped off the sleeves, but "V" necks
      wrapped, or gathered, thick waist treatments, asymmetric and draped bits
      to a fitted dress.... That said... look at the main links, then look at
      this page

      1st row: 1, 2, 3 , 2nd row, 2 & 3 have the influence. (But all w/o
      sleeves, and not as complex) To someone reading this another week,
      1244, 1242, 1241, 1250, 1235 (the only slightly older one)

      Simplicity. Their website, sigh... cutting corners to average their
      load... they don't know how many folks they loose when it can't server
      their big pages.... and they're a bit afraid to put any thing but the
      easy patterns as "featured". (And the new "easy" is the old "make it
      tonight", and their super easy is practicably "make it in an hour".)
      For fitted patterns, check out their newer "amazing fit".
      http://www.simplicity.com/c-378-amazing-fit.aspx . More complex
      patterns -- (wouldn't even call them intermediate), but they've got a
      nice focus on fit.

      Anyway... so either figuring to select that tab... or just looking at
      Simplicity dresses, and figuring that that dress has been "hot" for a
      bit yet, I flipped to page 2 (it's 2nd dress on Amazing Fit). You get:
      Note... not exact either, but this has the sleeves, has more traditional
      seaming, and doesn't even need stretch material. So... simplified from
      the Vogue options.

      (I'm going to come back to getting closer to the pattern later.)

      >> I'm guessing the dress is made with knits, judging from the twisted
      sashing in front;

      Yup, per the defintion of the dress - "silk jersey"

      Fiber is silk; jersey is a type of knit fabric, very soft and slinky
      hand. Tough to work with unless you carefully pin lots... and/or even
      hand baste--depending on how tough your curves are.

      If you're making something in this, try to find another silky stench to
      do a final test run before embarking on an swearing/adventures time
      working with this fabric. Personally, I think it's worth it... but you
      need the time and budget to do it... and it works a lot better if you
      start simpler w/ the fabric.

      Substitutes to simplify a bit, a mid-weight knit, or one of those woven
      silk fabrics w/ almost as good a hand (though I'd turn it and use the
      less shinny side). More simply... a woven that has a bit of hand... you
      can still scrunge the wait fabric... you just need to tack in the
      wrinkles... or you're doing little casual pleats... which is what some
      of the patterns above are doing.

      >> do folks here think it would look good (or rather, *okay*) on a
      short 'n' fat body type?

      Go for it... I'd sugest full lengh sleeves. Those 3/4 really chop the
      body... and maybe lengthen the skirt to below knee.... but bodies do
      vary. Wearing a shaper to stop the jiggle and smooth the lines will go
      a LONG way. Think of it as something the elves would wear modern
      day... you want the dress to have the lines, not you. (And the same
      goes for thinner gals.)

      >> Is it practical to build-in a shaper, or should I buy separates that
      I can take from dress to dress?

      Nope, maximize your bang for your buck. What you get may depend on
      what you can access and what works right for you. Me, I like a long
      line bra/top comboed with a long-line pant shaper. Some like the one
      piece combo... others like those little mini-dress shapers, but I don't
      think you get as much bang for your buck along w/ you get a line.
      BUT... your millage will soooooooo vary. Personally, I like the fit for
      shapeware from Catherines. But I like better being able to try the
      stuff on.

      >> Can a dress like that be made with an underarm zip, since I loathe
      long back zippers?

      No reason why not. If you're fitting it tight... just confirm on your
      muslin you can shimmy out of it.

      >> I love knit dresses because they're so forgiving of my inordinate
      pudge ("Older than I want to be, fatter than I ought to be, that's
      me!"), and I have scads of princess-line 'cocktail' dresses from one or
      two patterns from the 80s that are my go-to 'dress-up' dresses.

      See, you've got the basic shapes... you just fancy up from there.
      Basic pattern piece, then slash and spread. (Do you have a book that
      shows that fitting technique???)

      > I found it on the Issa site! And the view moves!! (I kid you not!)
      Don't cha love new technology?

      > I don't need it *that* complex
      Then see all the notes above

      > I may nap all Friday and pull a sewing all-nighter just to stay up to
      > 3 a.m. local and watch the wedding (and if it starts out boring, I'll
      > DVR it and go to bed!)
      That's what the DVR was born for... fast forward though the inane
      commercials and the long parade footage.

      I've got the DVR, but I think I'm waiting for the Sunday wrap up... but
      they might not show the hats as much. (As I type this... my political
      news show is taken over with a gal explaining why da guy needs to fake
      liking the wedding.. and now the guy's taking about the other brother
      being "cuter". Seriously! I need to go wash my mind. Maybe I'll
      watch this w/ the volume off.)

      OK... rant over... Back to the dress

      Just search for "kate engagement dress", you'll get a lot of discussion,
      stuff for sale on etsy, $25 knock offs... etc...

      When you're looking at links... yes, there are a few pages out there
      that try and pretend you're infected and need to download their
      software. (Hey, Kate's a hit.) Confirm the window is not from your
      virus protector, and just back out, close and cancel.)

      Looking down in some blogs... found a very simple version, another
      simplicity pattern,
      This may give you what you want. And, it's no zipper. She shows the
      dress unbound at the waist... and she's not a waif. She looks great.

      OK.... now to go the totally opposite direction... IF you're wanting to
      make Kate's Engagement dress with a fairly exact pattern, I'd suggest
      you go to flat pattern techniques. (Yup, I'm saying go flat, even
      though I'm a draping person.) You slash and spread to add the drape in.

      Basic idea here:
      ... and the half dozen following pages.
      Back of skirt... with that weird scoop here:
      It's an old fashion technique to remove back darts.
      (Also note the bottom of the page)

      If you've got a fitting book, might detail how to do the top at least.

      Fav book for learning how to make those insane geometrics...
      (if you're trying to buy this use, make sure it's the 2010 version, in
      ENGLISH). Note, this doesn't have the exact shapes, but it's enough.

      If you've got a copy of "The Art of Manipulating Fabric"
      Turn to the

      OR... Google Books just happens to have that part on line:
      Lots of detail in their gathers section

      Exta note later: 15 minutes on CNN of Anderson Cooper talking about the
      wedding dress that's not even out yet.... ackkkkkkkkkkkkkk run
      screaming. Too much

      All that... including the running away bit... that's a reaction to the
      coverage, not the dresses themselves....

      This wedding definitely counts as Fairy Tale and Fantasy.. so the
      clothing, it's on topic here, just not the squeels.

      But remember to include links... for those not following it as closely.
      Do share other links on the how to's or picture galleries as you come
      across them.

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