Finding patterns (and tweaks) was Re: [F-Costume] Re: I've been bit by the Kate bug! Link enclosed!
- Ah.... spring has final sprung... and a gal's thoughts turn towards
dresses... or, that or everyone else talking about Costume Con... those
of us not making it have to scratch the costume bug....
(ie, go check out the LOTR board as well... I'm just going to continue
After semi-ignoring this royal brouha since November, I've been bit by
the Kate bug! Does anyone here know of a commercially available (i.e.,
Simplicity, Buttericks, McCalls, Vogue) pattern for the Issa
'engagement' dress Kate Middleton wore in November? You'd think these
companies would put those patterns up on their home pages, but it's like
slogging through mud...
For anyone who's been completely under a rock... here's the primmer on
Ok... yup.. if something is "hot" pattern companies try to get something
up ASAP... but there's a lag in printed patters. They will make
something close, and or redo the cover art on something... and get it
there even faster.
That said... I looked at the complex seams and though... Vogue might...
so went and looked on the front page for "new" or "featured"
Looking for something "copied" from designers... use the 10 foot rule.
That said... the new stuff from Vogue "screamed" the influence for
summer dresses, ie they'd chopped off the sleeves, but "V" necks
wrapped, or gathered, thick waist treatments, asymmetric and draped bits
to a fitted dress.... That said... look at the main links, then look at
1st row: 1, 2, 3 , 2nd row, 2 & 3 have the influence. (But all w/o
sleeves, and not as complex) To someone reading this another week,
1244, 1242, 1241, 1250, 1235 (the only slightly older one)
Simplicity. Their website, sigh... cutting corners to average their
load... they don't know how many folks they loose when it can't server
their big pages.... and they're a bit afraid to put any thing but the
easy patterns as "featured". (And the new "easy" is the old "make it
tonight", and their super easy is practicably "make it in an hour".)
For fitted patterns, check out their newer "amazing fit".
http://www.simplicity.com/c-378-amazing-fit.aspx . More complex
patterns -- (wouldn't even call them intermediate), but they've got a
nice focus on fit.
Anyway... so either figuring to select that tab... or just looking at
Simplicity dresses, and figuring that that dress has been "hot" for a
bit yet, I flipped to page 2 (it's 2nd dress on Amazing Fit). You get:
Note... not exact either, but this has the sleeves, has more traditional
seaming, and doesn't even need stretch material. So... simplified from
the Vogue options.
(I'm going to come back to getting closer to the pattern later.)
>> I'm guessing the dress is made with knits, judging from the twistedsashing in front;
Yup, per the defintion of the dress - "silk jersey"
Fiber is silk; jersey is a type of knit fabric, very soft and slinky
hand. Tough to work with unless you carefully pin lots... and/or even
hand baste--depending on how tough your curves are.
If you're making something in this, try to find another silky stench to
do a final test run before embarking on an swearing/adventures time
working with this fabric. Personally, I think it's worth it... but you
need the time and budget to do it... and it works a lot better if you
start simpler w/ the fabric.
Substitutes to simplify a bit, a mid-weight knit, or one of those woven
silk fabrics w/ almost as good a hand (though I'd turn it and use the
less shinny side). More simply... a woven that has a bit of hand... you
can still scrunge the wait fabric... you just need to tack in the
wrinkles... or you're doing little casual pleats... which is what some
of the patterns above are doing.
>> do folks here think it would look good (or rather, *okay*) on ashort 'n' fat body type?
Go for it... I'd sugest full lengh sleeves. Those 3/4 really chop the
body... and maybe lengthen the skirt to below knee.... but bodies do
vary. Wearing a shaper to stop the jiggle and smooth the lines will go
a LONG way. Think of it as something the elves would wear modern
day... you want the dress to have the lines, not you. (And the same
goes for thinner gals.)
>> Is it practical to build-in a shaper, or should I buy separates thatI can take from dress to dress?
Nope, maximize your bang for your buck. What you get may depend on
what you can access and what works right for you. Me, I like a long
line bra/top comboed with a long-line pant shaper. Some like the one
piece combo... others like those little mini-dress shapers, but I don't
think you get as much bang for your buck along w/ you get a line.
BUT... your millage will soooooooo vary. Personally, I like the fit for
shapeware from Catherines. But I like better being able to try the
>> Can a dress like that be made with an underarm zip, since I loathelong back zippers?
No reason why not. If you're fitting it tight... just confirm on your
muslin you can shimmy out of it.
>> I love knit dresses because they're so forgiving of my inordinatepudge ("Older than I want to be, fatter than I ought to be, that's
me!"), and I have scads of princess-line 'cocktail' dresses from one or
two patterns from the 80s that are my go-to 'dress-up' dresses.
See, you've got the basic shapes... you just fancy up from there.
Basic pattern piece, then slash and spread. (Do you have a book that
shows that fitting technique???)
>Don't cha love new technology?
> I found it on the Issa site! And the view moves!! (I kid you not!)
> I don't need it *that* complexThen see all the notes above
> I may nap all Friday and pull a sewing all-nighter just to stay up toThat's what the DVR was born for... fast forward though the inane
> 3 a.m. local and watch the wedding (and if it starts out boring, I'll
> DVR it and go to bed!)
commercials and the long parade footage.
I've got the DVR, but I think I'm waiting for the Sunday wrap up... but
they might not show the hats as much. (As I type this... my political
news show is taken over with a gal explaining why da guy needs to fake
liking the wedding.. and now the guy's taking about the other brother
being "cuter". Seriously! I need to go wash my mind. Maybe I'll
watch this w/ the volume off.)
OK... rant over... Back to the dress
Just search for "kate engagement dress", you'll get a lot of discussion,
stuff for sale on etsy, $25 knock offs... etc...
When you're looking at links... yes, there are a few pages out there
that try and pretend you're infected and need to download their
software. (Hey, Kate's a hit.) Confirm the window is not from your
virus protector, and just back out, close and cancel.)
Looking down in some blogs... found a very simple version, another
This may give you what you want. And, it's no zipper. She shows the
dress unbound at the waist... and she's not a waif. She looks great.
OK.... now to go the totally opposite direction... IF you're wanting to
make Kate's Engagement dress with a fairly exact pattern, I'd suggest
you go to flat pattern techniques. (Yup, I'm saying go flat, even
though I'm a draping person.) You slash and spread to add the drape in.
Basic idea here:
... and the half dozen following pages.
Back of skirt... with that weird scoop here:
It's an old fashion technique to remove back darts.
(Also note the bottom of the page)
If you've got a fitting book, might detail how to do the top at least.
Fav book for learning how to make those insane geometrics...
(if you're trying to buy this use, make sure it's the 2010 version, in
ENGLISH). Note, this doesn't have the exact shapes, but it's enough.
If you've got a copy of "The Art of Manipulating Fabric"
Turn to the
OR... Google Books just happens to have that part on line:
Lots of detail in their gathers section
Exta note later: 15 minutes on CNN of Anderson Cooper talking about the
wedding dress that's not even out yet.... ackkkkkkkkkkkkkk run
screaming. Too much
All that... including the running away bit... that's a reaction to the
coverage, not the dresses themselves....
This wedding definitely counts as Fairy Tale and Fantasy.. so the
clothing, it's on topic here, just not the squeels.
But remember to include links... for those not following it as closely.
Do share other links on the how to's or picture galleries as you come