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Beading on stretch fabric

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  • sdfsdalfk
    I was looking at this costume: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GIchwvJ-aNk/SzuqG7vUHII/AAAAAAAANv4/TrNNcR6GDIM/s800/Folies+bergere+Nine+film+costume.jpg from the new
    Message 1 of 6 , Dec 31, 2009
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      I was looking at this costume: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GIchwvJ-aNk/SzuqG7vUHII/AAAAAAAANv4/TrNNcR6GDIM/s800/Folies+bergere+Nine+film+costume.jpg from the new movie "Nine" and I was wondering if anyone could tell me how the jeweled/beaded pieces on the bust were added? Are they attached directly to the stretch fabric? Or are they shaped appliques that are attached to the sheer stretch base? If so, what kind of material would these appliques be made of?
    • slc_fire
      Beading is very heavy and chiffon isn t strong enough to hold the shape. The beading looks to be on a seperate wing/flame shaped fabric. I would suspect that
      Message 2 of 6 , Dec 31, 2009
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        Beading is very heavy and chiffon isn't strong enough to hold the shape. The beading looks to be on a seperate wing/flame shaped fabric. I would suspect that it is then attached through the chiffon to the cups underneath. That's what we do in belly dance for beaded/heavy coin bras.




        ________________________________
        From: sdfsdalfk <sdfsdalfk@...>
        To: f-costume@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Thu, December 31, 2009 3:35:53 AM
        Subject: [F-Costume] Beading on stretch fabric

         
        I was looking at this costume: http://1.bp blogspot. com/_GIchwvJ- aNk/SzuqG7vUHII/ AAAAAAAANv4/ TrNNcR6GDIM/ s800/Folies+ bergere+Nine+ film+costume. jpg from the new movie "Nine" and I was wondering if anyone could tell me how the jeweled/beaded pieces on the bust were added? Are they attached directly to the stretch fabric? Or are they shaped appliques that are attached to the sheer stretch base? If so, what kind of material would these appliques be made of?







        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • maethoriel_jasmine
        If you go to this link there is a video of Colleen Atwood discussing these costumes. There are great closeups. Hope this helps. She says she used Swarovzki
        Message 3 of 6 , Dec 31, 2009
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          If you go to this link there is a video of Colleen Atwood discussing these costumes. There are great closeups. Hope this helps.

          She says she used Swarovzki (sp?) crystals. My guess, they are hand done, not appliques unless the company made the appliques for her. Most of the drapings look hand strung to me, some look to be glued on. Just my .02. They are gorgeous though. You get a good look at the fabric, stretchy mesh.

          <http://www.nine-movie.com/#/the-production>

          Maethoriel
          AKA Kelli
        • Sarah Strong
          any chance there could be a layer of power net or something behind the chiffon? total speculation... But it would help support the heavy beads, and not show a
          Message 4 of 6 , Dec 31, 2009
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            any chance there could be a layer of power net or something behind the
            chiffon? total speculation... But it would help support the heavy beads,
            and not show a whole lot...

            slc_fire wrote:
            >
            >
            >
            > Beading is very heavy and chiffon isn't strong enough to hold the shape.
            > The beading looks to be on a seperate wing/flame shaped fabric. I would
            > suspect that it is then attached through the chiffon to the cups
            > underneath. That's what we do in belly dance for beaded/heavy coin bras.
            >
            > ________________________________
            > From: sdfsdalfk <sdfsdalfk@... <mailto:sdfsdalfk%40yahoo.com>>
            > To: f-costume@yahoogroups.com <mailto:f-costume%40yahoogroups.com>
            > Sent: Thu, December 31, 2009 3:35:53 AM
            > Subject: [F-Costume] Beading on stretch fabric
            >
            >
            > I was looking at this costume: http://1.bp blogspot. com/_GIchwvJ-
            > aNk/SzuqG7vUHII/ AAAAAAAANv4/ TrNNcR6GDIM/ s800/Folies+ bergere+Nine+
            > film+costume. jpg from the new movie "Nine" and I was wondering if
            > anyone could tell me how the jeweled/beaded pieces on the bust were
            > added? Are they attached directly to the stretch fabric? Or are they
            > shaped appliques that are attached to the sheer stretch base? If so,
            > what kind of material would these appliques be made of?
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
            >
          • Cat Devereaux
            ... http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GIchwvJ-aNk/SzuqG7vUHII/AAAAAAAANv4/TrNNcR6GDIM/s800/Folies+bergere+Nine+film+costume.jpg
            Message 5 of 6 , Dec 31, 2009
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              >>
              http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GIchwvJ-aNk/SzuqG7vUHII/AAAAAAAANv4/TrNNcR6GDIM/s800/Folies+bergere+Nine+film+costume.jpg
              <http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_GIchwvJ-aNk/SzuqG7vUHII/AAAAAAAANv4/TrNNcR6GDIM/s800/Folies+bergere+Nine+film+costume.jpg>
              from the new movie "Nine" and I was wondering if anyone could tell me
              how the jeweled/beaded pieces on the bust were added? Are they attached
              directly to the stretch fabric? Or are they shaped appliqués that are
              attached to the sheer stretch base? If so, what kind of material would
              these appliqués be made of?

              Look close and you can see the multiple layers.

              Innerlayer is padded cups wrapped in a soft, probably stretch, opague
              fabric. Could be just easily pre bought cups, else if more support was
              required, those would be wired, connected and probably glued. (Again,
              you can buy the sticky cups, but need to engineer the rest.)

              Next layer is the shear, probably stretch. Note, the edges that are
              turned under from neck down the arm are probably reinforced to help hold
              during dancing giggle. (Prevents wardrobe malfunction -- if you remember
              us discussing Queen of the Damn, some of the same things apply... weight
              spread to neck, reinforce where you can.)

              Top layer... appliqué secured heavily though all layers, and the edges
              lightly tacked on the shear materials, w/ some iron on crystals
              scattered about. If some of those singles are sequin cup and bead,
              they're probably individually knotted and sewn.

              Now to the Appliqué. There's a reason a lot of those appliqués are long
              and thin in the body and spiky where they cup the breast area. The thin
              spikies allow the appliqué to form around the breast. The long fringe
              covers the bottom, which may be just a bottom curve, or a curve with a
              dart shaped wedge that can be tightened under the breast... but not
              needed. A soft narow curve will probably work best to let the beads
              hang free.

              Things needed
              - Fashion fabric that matches the area, or can be more glittery. Woven
              preferred over stretch. (Stretch can run and you want to use a sharp
              needle, not a round tip.)
              - Embroidery hoop. (Yea, you can do it w/o it... I didn't at first, but
              like making-a-muslin, you're much better off. Size, big enough to fit
              the whole appliqué.
              - Heavy duty interfacing, non-woven, non-iron on. Two layers per
              appliqué. (or one of craft weight, though you can still use two.)
              - Paper, brown paper bag preferred, but you can fake it otherwise.

              To do
              - Figure out your pattern on your cups using the brown paper. (You're
              doing a muslin, so if you need to tape and shape. do. I like the brown
              paper because it shapes better.) You can probably manage to make it
              laid flat just making the main appliqué thinner, or making the cuts
              deeper. This is where you decided if you need to cut a dart in the
              underpart to shape. REMINDER: you're doing this on the cups you are
              using, not a basic bra... shape will change.
              - Transfer appliqué silhouette to underlayer. (Remember, one of these
              is going to be in reverse.)
              - Pencil in the lines where you're stitching the beads. I can see some
              zigzag patterns. (You may want to use different color pencils to
              differentiate the lines.) Yes, some of the area will just be fill
              beads, you don't have to mark each of those. They're the last step.
              - On the Bead fringe -- I can't tell if it's just fringe w/ crystal
              chunks added or part of the fringe. (More on beaded fringe at the end)
              Measure how much beaded fringe you're going to need, you make that
              separate and tack it on . DO NOT do it on the appliqué if you want to
              keep your sanity.
              - Take your two layers of interfacing and trim to smaller than the hoop,
              but NOT the shape of the appliqué yet.
              - Fashion fabric should be at least 3" bigger than the hoop.
              - Put your fashion fabric (the layer that's going to show.) in the hoop,
              tight and even but not stretching it. Tack the interfacing to it,
              inside the pattern lines. (Remember, pattern shows on the UNDERSIDE.)
              - On your thread, leave long tail on the knots
              - Bead. Remember to knot every so often.
              - Add string of fringe.
              - When you're all done, glue down the knots. .
              - Take out of the frame. Let it sit over night. (It's drying and the
              fabric is releasing back to it's size... in case you stretched it too
              tight.)
              - Lay your original pattern down on top of the applique's underside.
              (If you skipped the hoop, this is even more important than if you used
              the hoop, but do it either way.) Your appliqué may have shrunk with
              your beading. (It's common.) Redraw the outer line.... but everything
              else should be OK. (If the pattern size isn't really important you could
              have skipped this and trimmed in advance... but... this is the full way.)
              - Trim away the extra interfacing so you have the shape of the
              appliqué. DO NOT CUT the fashion fabric or the beading threads. If
              you've got those scissors w/ one flat safety side...use. You can trim
              the broader shape and then clean up the edges.
              - if you've cut though either... fix it now.
              - fold the fashion fabric around the appliqué to the underside.
              Clip/trim where needed. Tack the fashion fabric so it's got nice clean
              edges. Doesn't matter the underside is ugly. (Says the workmanship
              judge.) Since it will be attached to the cup, the messy part is hidden.
              - Baste the appliqué onto the stretch fabric with the top on a model or
              a dress form.. Use a ball point needle so you don't snag the stretch
              fabric. (Yea, it will be a pill pushing it though the appliqué. You
              don't have to stitch on the very edge, can hide the threads under beads.

              All in all... if you can buy them, do. If you can cut medallions from
              fabric and just back, do. These take lots and lots and lots of time.
              But... do make a good hand project to take places.

              Beaded fringe in the next post.

              -Cat-
            • Judy Mitchell
              ... Note: (please keep in mind that I haven t seen either the movie or pics) if you choose to work with spandex/lycra, and I ve never had a problem with runs
              Message 6 of 6 , Dec 31, 2009
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                Cat Devereaux wrote:
                > Things needed
                > - Fashion fabric that matches the area, or can be more glittery. Woven
                > preferred over stretch. (Stretch can run and you want to use a sharp
                > needle, not a round tip.)

                Note: (please keep in mind that I haven't seen either the movie or
                pics) if you choose to work with spandex/lycra, and I've never had a
                problem with runs unless it's pantyhose weight, spend the extra $ and
                use Schmetz stretch needles! They work much better than the Dritz ball
                points which often skip stitches. The stretch needles are better. Ok,
                they still don't much like working on the stretch foils, but not much
                does to work with those you have to put the shiny side down (which is odd).

                -Judy
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