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Help with Tonks costume

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  • paddyandnick
    Hi, all. I m hoping you can help me with a Nymphadora Tonks costume. I was going to get a local alterations shop to make the jacket for me, but I m becoming
    Message 1 of 7 , Dec 1, 2008
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      Hi, all. I'm hoping you can help me with a Nymphadora Tonks costume.
      I was going to get a local alterations shop to make the jacket for
      me, but I'm becoming concerned about their level of expertise. They
      gave me a sample of fabric they thought would work, but they didn't
      know what the fabric is called. They also couldn't tell me how much
      fabric I should buy. So I either need to find someone else to make it
      (there aren't any other places locally that make custom clothing, so
      I'd have to find someone online), or try to tackle it myself.

      Can anyone recommend someone who can make something like this for a
      reasonable price? Alternatively, do you think someone who's a
      relative beginner at sewing could make this, and if so, can someone
      recommend a pattern? Thanks much.

      Here are a couple of reference pictures:
      http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/costumersguide/Harry%20Potter/Order%20of%20the%20Pheonix/tonks/?action=view¤t=odf4oclumenciacombrbg7.jpg

      http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/costumersguide/Harry%20Potter/Order%20of%20the%20Pheonix/tonks/?action=view¤t=photoshootodf3oclumencikb2.jpg

      Cynthia
    • Cat Devereaux
      ... reasonable price? Hi Cynthia... List mod here. Not meaning to be a grouch... but this list is a no-buy/no-sell list.... so the above question is a no-no.
      Message 2 of 7 , Dec 1, 2008
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        >> Can anyone recommend someone who can make something like this for a
        reasonable price?

        Hi Cynthia... List mod here. Not meaning to be a grouch... but this
        list is a no-buy/no-sell list.... so the above question is a no-no.
        We're here to help folks learn to make there own things...( AND,
        recommendations or not or seamstress are a maddening mine field on a
        list of this size.)

        On to the rest of your questions/comments....

        >> help me with a Nymphadora Tonks costume.
        I was going to get a local alterations shop to make the jacket for
        me, but I'm becoming concerned about their level of expertise. They
        gave me a sample of fabric they thought would work, but they didn't
        know what the fabric is called.

        Now a days, that's not really an issue.... especially with the "fancy"
        fashion fabrics. They're not labeled well in the stores... and even
        when labeled they can be different from manufacture to manufacture.
        Yes, someone should know basic fiber contents and a few basic wool or
        silk weaves... but everything else... not unless you're a fashion student.

        Looking at that fabric... I'd say it's got some kind of an recrudescent
        iron on on top of a slightly fuzzy polly woven.. I'm sure there's a
        name for it... but as long as the fabric is close... is good.

        >> They also couldn't tell me how much fabric I should buy.

        Well, are they providing the pattern??? Or are you???

        It's easy though... go to a fabric store, or look on line for a pattern
        that has the same lines... and look at how much fabric they require for
        each of the widths. (If the fabric was ultra expensive or you only had
        a little bit there would be other ways to get more exact, but that's
        another post.) It's better to over estimate. Without going to the
        pattern books, I'd say look at stuff like the matrix coat pattern.
        However, there may be extra fullness. (I'm not familiar w/ this costume
        so I don't know how wide the back skirts of the coat are.) I'm guessing
        you might have to add two extra gores into a standard pattern to make it
        wide enough.... estimate that by just measuring waist to floor. Two
        gores will fit on one fabric width, with room to spare.

        So I either need to find someone else ... or try to tackle it myself.

        Hey, we're here to help... and it's really not that complex once you
        break down the shape and remove the ribbon decoration.

        The basic shape isn't that complex. Just start with a pattern that's
        close, add the extra changes, mock up a muslin... and get the problems
        worked out in cheap fabric.

        >>can someone recommend a pattern?

        If you need help picking a pattern after you've looked a bit, yelp.
        Start with Simplicity. Look at the line drawing on the pattern backs.
        Look at both the costume entries (like I said, see if the Matrix stuff
        is still around.) But also look at regular coats/outerwear... and just
        figure you'll add those side gores.

        Come back with some links to patterns, after you've done some leg work
        on the net. (You'll learn a lot just by looking at the pattern line
        drawings.) Share the links of those that you think are close and we'll
        help you with the next stage of the breakdown. (Also, keep repeating
        the pic links so folks that join in the conversation late can see what
        we're talking about.)

        On more bit of pattern help.... it's just a basic full length coat with
        long set in sleeves with a flared skirt. What we do need is a pic of
        the back. Are there princess seams... or just one seam on center back.
        Also, w/o a back pic, we don't know how/wear the skirt fullness is
        added. A cap with the coat in motion would also help.

        Do not look at patterns w/ the military shoulder tab. Those are easy to
        make on your own. Ignore any decoration or closures. You will just be
        adding the ribbon trimming on your own for fake closures. (That's why
        you want to look at the line drawings.)

        Good luck w/ research... and keep coming back and we'll help step you
        though it.

        -Cat-

        >> Here are a couple of reference pictures:

        http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/costumersguide/Harry%20Potter/Order%20of%20the%20Pheonix/tonks/?action=view¤t=odf4oclumenciacombrbg7.jpg
        <http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/costumersguide/Harry%20Potter/Order%20of%20the%20Pheonix/tonks/?action=view¤t=odf4oclumenciacombrbg7.jpg>

        http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/costumersguide/Harry%20Potter/Order%20of%20the%20Pheonix/tonks/?action=view¤t=photoshootodf3oclumencikb2.jpg
        <http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/costumersguide/Harry%20Potter/Order%20of%20the%20Pheonix/tonks/?action=view¤t=photoshootodf3oclumencikb2.jpg>
      • Sarah
        what a cool coat!! The fabric looks like that sort of lizard skin stuff, probably in with the suede-like and moleskin fabrics, or maybe over by the
        Message 3 of 7 , Dec 1, 2008
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          what a cool coat!!
          The fabric looks like that sort of "lizard skin" stuff, probably in
          with the suede-like and 'moleskin' fabrics, or maybe over by the
          confetti dot. If so, it's really easy to work with since it's likely a
          very stable knit (ie, it doesn't stretch a great deal) which won't
          fray a lot. You don't have to worry about finishing all your raw
          edges, if it's a knit like that.
          The trim is miles and miles of grosgrain ribbon, with luck you can buy
          it by the spool (that's how JoAnn sells most of their ribbon these
          days) and return any unopened spools, once you've finished.

          Like Cat says, find a pattern that has about the right silhouette, get
          the right size (go by your actual measurements, not by what size you
          get in ready to wear) and look on the clearance aisle for some really
          inexpensive fabric to test in. Ideally your test fabric has about the
          same weight and drapiness as your real fabric, but plain old cotton
          muslin is still a good place to start. You can write on it,
          masking-tape onto it, etc.
          Simplicity, Butterick and McCalls all have their pattern catalogs on
          line. Keep in mind, only one view is shown in the thumbnails, so click
          away on all the coats to see alternate views if you find one that
          seems close. Adding length is easy (but remember it adds yardage too),
          changing a neckline isn't too hard, putting that pocket on the side
          and the epaulettes are a piece of cake; look for the overall lines and
          fit, how the sleeve fits, that sort of thing.
          Then come back here and we'll help you along the way!
          And be sure to post pix in progress and finished!
          S

          --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, "paddyandnick" <cbowker@...> wrote:
          >
          > Hi, all. I'm hoping you can help me with a Nymphadora Tonks costume.
          [snip]
          > Here are a couple of reference pictures:
          >
          http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/costumersguide/Harry%20Potter/Order%20of%20the%20Pheonix/tonks/?action=view¤t=odf4oclumenciacombrbg7.jpg
          >
          >
          http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/costumersguide/Harry%20Potter/Order%20of%20the%20Pheonix/tonks/?action=view¤t=photoshootodf3oclumencikb2.jpg
          >
          > Cynthia
          >
        • Cat Devereaux
          Was just reviewing the costume again and noticed the name of the pictures. This is from Harry Potter! (Said I didn t know the costume.) While not throwing
          Message 4 of 7 , Dec 1, 2008
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            Was just reviewing the costume again and noticed the name of the
            pictures. This is from Harry Potter! (Said I didn't know the
            costume.) While not throwing you off the list... and we're glad to
            help.... have you checked out the Harry Potter costuming list and
            web???? http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MadameMalkins/ and
            http://www.costumebeginner.com/malkins/ (this link isn't working right
            now, but expect it to come back up)

            ** Reminder to everyone.... go to Movie Costumes on our web and click on
            Resources to find out where to look up movie costume research sites...
            and never be afraid to send us more.
            http://alleycatscratch.com/movie/Costume_Links.htm


            >> The fabric looks like that sort of "lizard skin" stuff, probably in
            with the suede-like and 'moleskin' fabrics, ... it's really easy to
            work with since it's likely a
            very stable knit

            I change what I said before and agree with Sara.

            Only thing you need to know about this fabric is that the mix of plastic
            dots/shapes and fuzzied knit, it's a bit hard on sewing needles. You
            should always put in a new needle for a new project... but this one
            could eat more than a few. When you're just sewing the coat, a medium
            universal (or ball) needle is fine. When you switch over to sewing on
            the trim, switch to a heavy universal needle... and if you're machine
            starts acting up, change needles again.

            Patten???
            Maybe: http://www.butterick.com/item/B6844.htm??tab=list/costumes&page=all

            Really depends on what the back look like. I think there's a waist seam
            in front... so a pirate or frock coat might work better. There are
            multiple options in simplicity... Adrea does a simple coat here that you
            could just lengthen:
            http://www.simplicity.com/designFrame.cfm?dvPage=designFrontBack.cfm&design=3677

            There are other options.

            -Cat-
          • Sarah
            ... http://www.butterick.com/item/B6844.htm??tab=list/costumes&page=all huh, that wouldn t have jumped out at me. What about Butterick 5295
            Message 5 of 7 , Dec 1, 2008
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              --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@...> wrote:
              > [snip]
              > Pattern???
              > Maybe:
              http://www.butterick.com/item/B6844.htm??tab=list/costumes&page=all

              huh, that wouldn't have jumped out at me. What about Butterick 5295
              http://www.butterick.com/item/B5295.htm??tab=coats_jackets_vests&page=1
              or 4929 if you need the princess seams
              http://www.butterick.com/item/B4929.htm??tab=list/coats_jackets_vests&page=all
              or better maybe 5145
              http://www.butterick.com/item/B5145.htm??tab=list/coats_jackets_vests&page=all
              which has a waist seam, very simple shaping, and the collar won't need
              a lot of alteration either. I'm betting Tonks' coat does have a waist
              seam, and that trim across the top of the pocket flap is covering it.

              [snip]
              > multiple options in simplicity... Adrea does a simple coat here that
              you
              > could just lengthen:
              >
              http://www.simplicity.com/designFrame.cfm?dvPage=designFrontBack.cfm&design=3677
              >
              > There are other options.
              like 2812, 3628 (maybe, need to lengthen)
              Or McCall's
              http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5717.htm??tab=list/jackets_coats&page=all
              http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5525.htm??tab=list/jackets_coats&page=all
              http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5526.htm??tab=list/jackets_coats&page=all
              I like the last one best because it has the waist seam, the simple
              collar, and the easiest princess seams, in case you need those for
              shaping. It does need to be lengthened.
              This is the sort of costume that once you get the right general fit,
              it's the fabric and the trim that is going to make it really
              recognizable. It's the sort of thing that if you could find an unlined
              trenchcoat in this fabric (ha!), you could nip it in a bit with banana
              darts, add the miles of ribbon, and people will know who it is.
              S
            • S. M. Wand
              I think I can find a coat that looks better, faster, (or maybe not, URLs have been flying like snowflakes here). Try this Simplicity pattern, #5386,
              Message 6 of 7 , Dec 2, 2008
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                I think I can find a coat that looks better, faster, (or maybe not,
                URLs have been flying like snowflakes here). Try this Simplicity
                pattern, #5386, faux-Matrix long cassock-style coat (standing collar,
                which I think the photos of Tonks shows) (I think it's still in stock):

                http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=5386

                This is a men's pattern, so you'll need to resize like crazy. Remember
                Cat & Judy's Costume Rules: Test, Test, Test! And then test again!
                Find an inexpensive fabric with the same drape and make a test garment.

                Also, remember my personal rule: It takes three times as long as you
                think it will, and it's five times as difficult as you guess it is.
                (I am the most inept amateur costumer you will ever meet...)

                If I'm not mistaken, weren't coats like this in style for clubbing a
                few years back (like, 5 to 10 years ago?)? Don't know where (in the
                world) you are, but if you're really, really crunched for time, you
                may want to try resale and vintage shops and find something 'similar'
                that you can throw tons of trims on.

                Sorry, I went to the photo links and recognized the line of the coat
                when I saw it; sorry if I stepped on anyone else's pattern-recognition
                toes, not my intent... I've been lurking here more than anything for
                the past few months.

                ...but I've lost weight at Curves! and happy holidays,
                Miranduviel, the Elf-Hobbit slowly turning into an illogical Vulcan...



                In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Sarah" <sarahstrong13@...> wrote:
                > What about Butterick 5295
                >http://www.butterick.com/item/B5295.htm??tab=coats_jackets_vests&page=1
                >or 4929 if you need the princess seams
                >http://www.butterick.com/item/B4929.htm??tab=list/coats_jackets_vests&page=all
                >or better maybe 5145
                >http://www.butterick.com/item/B5145.htm??tab=list/coats_jackets_vests&page=all
                >which has a waist seam, very simple shaping, and the collar won't
                >need a lot of alteration either. I'm betting Tonks' coat does have
                >a waist seam, and that trim across the top of the pocket flap is
                >covering it.
                >
                >http://www.simplicity.com/designFrame.cfm?dvPage=designFrontBack.cfm&design=3677

                >like 2812, 3628 (maybe, need to lengthen)
                >Or McCall's
                >http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5717.htm??tab=list/jackets_coats&page=all
                >http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5525.htm??tab=list/jackets_coats&page=all
                >http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5526.htm??tab=list/jackets_coats&page=all
              • Jules
                I bought a matrix style coat for my daughter on ebay, just put in matrix coat on search if you don t want to make it yourself, it is black denim unlined, I was
                Message 7 of 7 , Dec 2, 2008
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                  I bought a matrix style coat for my daughter on ebay, just put in matrix
                  coat on search if you don't want to make it yourself, it is black denim
                  unlined, I was able to shorten sleeves and length easily
                  --
                  Jules
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