Re: [F-Costume] Re: Question about bodice/corset
- --- silvaragreenleaf@... wrote:
> Skirt hooks?The flat sort of hooks & eyes, like this set from
Greenberg & Hammer:
I've seen them used as trousers closing, instead of a
snap fastener or button, above the zipper.
Ann in CT
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- --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, ~Priestess <priestess@...> wrote:
> Skirt hooks??? Oooo.....You may be used to using hooks and eyes to fasten a bodice closed, or
> Where would I find and how do they work?
a waistband closed.
Skirt hooks, unlike waistband hooks and bodice hooks, hold the bodice
to the skirt so that there is no gap when you raise your arms in
dancing or reaching for things or waving to subjects. ;-) Skirt hooks
are applied vertically, with the hook generally on the bottom inside
edge of the front or back bodice, and the eye (either thread or
metal) on the waistband. How many you need and their exact placement
depend on your garment's cut, your fabric, your anticipated gestures,
and your audience's viewpoint: for instance, if you'll only be seen
from the front, you're less likly to need them at the back waist--
unless your gestures will unseat the back of your jacket, and expose
a bubble of blouse, say, or roll your collar forward over your
I've seen very small skirt hooks on (historic) Late Victorian
blouses/jackets. They can get caught on lace and trimmings if you're
not careful...I like the idea of using the flatter ones to minimize
I usually set the hook so that it catches its corresponding eye at
approximately the bottom edge of the skirt waistband, if I can,
because that's where the fabric is likely to be layered thickest, and
best supports tugging on the eye. I also try to keep any part of the
hook from showing by setting it a quarter to half an inch "inside"
the lower edge of the bodice...again, you want the layers of fabric
near the seam to support the hook, and you don't want a metal gleam
Does that make sense?
> Re: Question about bodice/corsetUhmmm... Yay for Andrea? Yes, cool and easy to use patterns. I
> Posted by: "Sarah"
> yay for Andrea's easy-make period costumes!
generally adore people who make patterns.
Yay for easy-make? Yes; good for beginners.
Yay for costumes? Yes without exceptions ;-)
Yay for *period* costumes concerning *this* pattern?
Forgive me the following lecturing on historicalness, but I can't
resist. It always pains me so if people call patterns like
this 'historical' or 'period', because they're not. As in: Not at all.
The costume name on the pattern envelope ("Misses
Renaissance Costumes") alone already makes me cringe.
Renaissance: Pre-Tudor. High waist. No hoopskirt.
All of which, of course, has been totally ignored when naming that
Then again, the majority of people (=those who have never really
studied historic costumes...) consider 'Renaissance' to be almost
everything between Medieval and Rococo, or even 'younger' periods:
I've recently read that someone wearing a historically correct
Natural Form bustle gown (~1880's - Victorian!) was called 'Medieval
princess' when wearing that costume in public, so there.
But back to that pattern...
The envelope picture generally reminds me of a pseudo-early-
Elizabethan style (skirt shaping, general shape), of a woman who's
only half dressed in not-so-fitting clothes of which some are not
*hers*, but someone else's underwear (hence the gaping front with the
visible lacing of the staye; in this pattern supposed to be
her 'bodice'...) and who obviously either stole the sleeves of her
grand-grandmother (in case of the sleeves on the red gown, which have
some resemblance with actual Renaissance sleeves...), who has to wear
a way too large chemise (white sleeves) or who's still practicing
sewing Tudor sleeves - even if out of fashion - but not quite
successfully either because of the lack of material for the actual
fullness of Tudor bell sleeves or because of lack of practice (black
sleeves in the pattern envelope picture).
Don't get me wrong, it's a nice costume pattern and for someone who
isn't too interested in historic costumes it might even look
somewhat 'historical', but it's definitely not. No woman would have
left the bed- respectively dressing room in late Tudor / Elizabethan
times with a gaping bodice like that. No, not even bar wenches.
BTW, no matter how boned a bodice is, I would always wear a proper
corset - or, in this case of 'pseudo-Elizabethan' style, stays -
Protects the gown, looks better, feels better; especially if
your 'Microvelvet' (Just out of curiosity - what's that? Never
happened upon that expression before...) and the 'satn' aren't made
of natural fibers (which stays or any corsets in general should be -
linen is probably the best fabric to use for that purpose).
In case you don't plan to wear such stays with the gown, do yourself
a favour and use linen for the parts that are closest to your skin.
If you're using polyester, acetate or something like that you'll soon
have the feeling of having been stuffed into a big plastic bag. The
linen lining creates some sort of membrane between the artificial
outside fashion fabric and the skin.
You'll feel the difference.