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[F-Costume] Constructing a Cut Out

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  • Amanda_C
    Hello, I was hoping to get some advice on how to go about constructing the cut-out in this skirt: http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html My concern is the
    Message 1 of 23 , Oct 2, 2007
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      Hello,

      I was hoping to get some advice on how to go about
      constructing the cut-out in this skirt:

      http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html

      My concern is the flaps coming from the bottom of the
      circle cut-out are just going to hang awry rather than
      laying nice and flat and defining the circle.

      I planned to use light interfacing to maintain the
      shape of the cut-out, but I don't know how to make the
      flaps work. I thought I could tack it to the
      underskirt, but then nothing would move correctly...

      Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've been
      pondering this for a few months without epiphany :)

      Thank you again,
      Amanda




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    • Sarah
      I think if you use a fairly crisp fabric and sufficient interfacing, maybe also a lining? it should work ok. test first, to make sure your interfacing is crisp
      Message 2 of 23 , Oct 2, 2007
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        I think if you use a fairly crisp fabric and sufficient interfacing,
        maybe also a lining? it should work ok. test first, to make sure your
        interfacing is crisp enough.
        If you need something with bounce but less cardboardy, try a layer of
        nylon tulle, maybe in with a light interfacing.

        --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Amanda_C <cuprysa@...> wrote:
        >
        > Hello,
        >
        > I was hoping to get some advice on how to go about
        > constructing the cut-out in this skirt:
        >
        > http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html
        >
      • Cat Devereaux
        ... Ah comic book style drawing! Looks pretty on the page, issues in 3D ... circle cut-out are just going
        Message 3 of 23 , Oct 2, 2007
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          >>http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html
          <http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html>

          Ah comic book style drawing! <G> Looks pretty on the page, issues in 3D

          >>My concern is the flaps coming from the bottom of the
          circle cut-out are just going to hang awry rather than
          laying nice and flat and defining the circle.

          My vote is for a fabric with a stiff hand, interline, and then bag
          line. To keep the circle really crisp, interface the lining with medium
          weight. I recommend the interlining (maybe canvas or a stiff ish muslin
          because it will give body to everything and help hide where the
          interfacing stops. (The only way I'd think it's OK to skip the
          interlining would be if you were using something like a heavy stiff taffeta.

          OK... and now the thousand dollar question... what are you planning to
          do in the back. You need to be able to walk in this... and since it's
          important to the costume to keep the key hole/circle stable... you want
          the front to stay smooth when you walk... and not have the fabric pull.
          If you have no pic for the back... 3 options... 1, slit the back to the
          knees; 2, give it some kind of a petal wrap treatment so the back opens
          up as you walk; 3, gather/gore in the back (I almost see a tad bit of
          train) since we're dealing with a very stiff fabric.

          -Cat-
        • Amanda_C
          Thank you for the fast replies! I added arrows to my reference pic so I can try to explain more: http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html Cat, you asked
          Message 4 of 23 , Oct 2, 2007
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            Thank you for the fast replies!

            I added arrows to my reference pic so I can try to
            explain more:

            http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html

            Cat, you asked about the back of the skirt. Same
            treatment, keyhole/circle in the back, so it will open
            as the wearer walks. *phew*

            I feel pretty confident about reinforcing the circle
            so it keeps its shape. The part I am stuck on is how
            to keep the "flaps" (shaded in blue in reference) from
            falling apart/forward/open.

            Would interfacing stop that from happening? I just
            picture them opening like barn doors away from the
            model. Part of me want to use clear thread loosely
            strung across the opening (at the arrow point) to keep
            the "doors closed". That's too messy for my tastes,
            but I hope it illustrates the problem I'm fussing
            over.

            Thank you so much for all your help, as always. :)

            - Amanda

            --- Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@...>
            wrote:

            > OK... and now the thousand dollar question... what
            > are you planning to
            > do in the back. You need to be able to walk in
            > this... and since it's
            > important to the costume to keep the key hole/circle
            > stable... you want
            > the front to stay smooth when you walk... and not
            > have the fabric pull.
            > If you have no pic for the back... 3 options... 1,
            > slit the back to the
            > knees; 2, give it some kind of a petal wrap
            > treatment so the back opens
            > up as you walk; 3, gather/gore in the back (I almost
            > see a tad bit of
            > train) since we're dealing with a very stiff fabric.
            >
            > -Cat-






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          • Andrew Trembley
            ... It s possible to do if you want to keep the two skirt layers separate. That edge detail looks thick enough it should be piping. That in itself would add
            Message 5 of 23 , Oct 2, 2007
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              Cat Devereaux wrote:
              >> My concern is the flaps coming from the bottom of the
              >> circle cut-out are just going to hang awry rather than
              >> laying nice and flat and defining the circle.
              >
              > My vote is for a fabric with a stiff hand, interline, and then bag
              > line. To keep the circle really crisp, interface the lining with medium
              > weight. I recommend the interlining (maybe canvas or a stiff ish muslin
              > because it will give body to everything and help hide where the
              > interfacing stops. (The only way I'd think it's OK to skip the
              > interlining would be if you were using something like a heavy stiff taffeta.
              >

              It's possible to do if you want to keep the two skirt layers separate.

              That edge detail looks thick enough it should be piping. That in itself
              would add some structure. How about using something rigid instead of
              normal filler cord around the circle to "bone" it into place? I'd
              consider the plastic ring from a spring-style embroidery hoop of the
              right size, and just cut it to match the circle. If it's supposed to be
              flat piping, perhaps heat-set a shaped strip of wonderflex to make the ring.

              It's easy to do if you don't care about keeping the two skirt layers
              separate. Here are a few dirt-simple cheats:
              1. Tack (or use a buttoneer to "staple") the points of the circle to the
              underskirt to keep them flat to the underskirt (but it sounds like
              that's not what you want).
              2. Run a length of transparent monofilament thread (or fishing line)
              between the two edges of the circle to keep them together. It's a bit
              more fragile, but it would allow the layers to move separately.
              3. Don't do it as a separate underskirt. Use a narrow permanent-pleated
              fabric (or gather ordinary fabric) to the hem of the overskirt to make a
              faux underskirt.

              andy
            • faye
              ... Maybe some fabric weights in the hem to keep the skirts down. faye
              Message 6 of 23 , Oct 2, 2007
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                --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Sarah" <sarahstrong13@...> wrote:
                >
                > I think if you use a fairly crisp fabric and sufficient interfacing,
                > maybe also a lining? it should work ok. test first, to make sure your
                > interfacing is crisp enough.
                > If you need something with bounce but less cardboardy, try a layer of
                > nylon tulle, maybe in with a light interfacing.
                >
                > --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Amanda_C <cuprysa@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Hello,
                > >
                > > I was hoping to get some advice on how to go about
                > > constructing the cut-out in this skirt:
                > >
                > > http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html
                > >
                >


                Maybe some fabric weights in the hem to keep the skirts down.

                faye
              • Pierre & Sandy Pettinger
                What Cat said about the lining, but make it a tiny bit smaller than the outside fabric. If there are side seams, make the lining seam allowance about 1/8
                Message 7 of 23 , Oct 2, 2007
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                  What Cat said about the lining, but make it a tiny bit smaller than
                  the outside fabric. If there are side seams, make the lining seam
                  allowance about 1/8" bigger than the outside, maybe only about
                  1/16". You want it just enough smaller to put some tension on the
                  edges so they don't pooch out.

                  Sandy

                  At 11:58 AM 10/2/2007, you wrote:

                  >I added arrows to my reference pic so I can try to explain more:
                  ><http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html>http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html
                  >
                  >Cat, you asked about the back of the skirt. Same treatment,
                  >keyhole/circle in the back, so it will open as the wearer walks. *phew*
                  >
                  >I feel pretty confident about reinforcing the circle so it keeps its
                  >shape. The part I am stuck on is how to keep the "flaps" (shaded in
                  >blue in reference) from falling apart/forward/open.
                  >
                  >Would interfacing stop that from happening? I just picture them
                  >opening like barn doors away from the model.
                  >
                  >Thank you so much for all your help, as always. :)
                  >
                  >- Amanda

                  "Those Who Fail To Learn History
                  Are Doomed to Repeat It;
                  Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
                  Why They Are Simply Doomed.

                  Achemdro'hm
                  "The Illusion of Historical Fact"
                  -- C.Y. 4971

                  Andromeda
                • Cat Devereaux
                  ... ... treatment, keyhole/circle in the back, so it will open as the wearer walks. *phew* Ack, but you re going
                  Message 8 of 23 , Oct 2, 2007
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                    >>http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html
                    <http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html>
                    >> you asked about the back of the skirt. Same
                    treatment, keyhole/circle in the back, so it will open
                    as the wearer walks. *phew*

                    Ack, but you're going to have an even worse problem in the back. with
                    those leaves under the circle. I don't think wonderful flex or piping
                    would be very comfortable to sit on.

                    Densely woven skirt fabric (heavy but not too thick), heavy interlining
                    and fairly solid lining that doesn't catch up on the shear underskirt.
                    Big strip (link about 4" wider than the circle all the way down) of
                    heavy interfacing. Prewash everything and make sure you cut perfectly
                    on the grain. Fit the waist perfectly with little darts. Confirm you
                    can sit in the skirt.... release on the sides. On your first muslin,
                    the front and back of the skirt should be solid. Confirm the basic.
                    Sitting, walking carefully. If the hips fit too tightly now, it's going
                    to pull on your circle... so fix it before. Assume that the slit/circle
                    is only going to give you knee walking room. (You'll get more, but
                    figure it that way.) You're going to move like a lady in this thing, I
                    hope vs. being a superhero character.

                    Oh... if you do need the super hero version and light material...fill
                    the circle and down with clear strong plastic. For ability to walk, in
                    the back tack down the plastic in the circle and two one side. Let the
                    "Slit" be to one side of the key hole. I guess you could leave it open
                    in the front to... but again, just chose one side to have open.


                    On the tack down to the shear underskirt... Have a 3rd skirt of slightly
                    stronger material under it. Let the underskirt have the slit in front
                    and back. Make sure there's enough of that gathers material pushed into
                    the center so it won't tear. Then you can tack though all 3 layers and
                    "freeze" the positioning. (or hidden snaps, for washing, or velcro). 3
                    layers because you'll tear your shear shirt if you oversteop.

                    See... many options depending on choices. Me, I like the stiff shirt on
                    top method... and much heavy interfacing and interlining.... but then
                    again, I have two bolts of heavy duty interfacing sitting in my bedroom
                    staring at me right now. <G>

                    -Cat-
                  • Cat Devereaux
                    ... the outside fabric. If there are side seams, make the lining seam allowance about 1/8 bigger than the outside, maybe only about 1/16 . You want it just
                    Message 9 of 23 , Oct 2, 2007
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                      >>What Cat said about the lining, but make it a tiny bit smaller than
                      the outside fabric. If there are side seams, make the lining seam
                      allowance about 1/8" bigger than the outside, maybe only about
                      1/16". You want it just enough smaller to put some tension on the
                      edges so they don't pooch out.

                      Oh, yea. I forgot about that. But on stuff like that, I also treat all
                      the layers just like a collar. Grade all the layers, then clip.
                      Understich on the lining side.
                      http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/el_6stepcollar.html . The smidge
                      tighter on the side seams lining.

                      -Cat-
                    • Amanda_C
                      This is fantastic, thank you SO much, I love all the advice ^_^ To clarify, there will be no super-heroing in this costume. :) Ref again:
                      Message 10 of 23 , Oct 2, 2007
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                        This is fantastic, thank you SO much, I love all the
                        advice ^_^

                        To clarify, there will be no super-heroing in this
                        costume. :)

                        Ref again: http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html

                        Also, the "underskirt" is a pair of hakama. We made
                        the hakama, (and intend to make the rest of the
                        costume) out of interior dec fabric - Roclon's
                        Renaissance white, if anyone is familiar. It's a
                        heavier fabric, and we've had a lot of success with it
                        in the past.

                        The edges are getting trimmed in double wide binding,
                        nothing too stiff.

                        We have these fabric and trim "restrictions" because
                        this costume (for a friend) needs to match mine (I'm
                        just doing the patterning). To give you an idea, my
                        costume is the white one:

                        http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Ulquiorra1.jpg

                        Cat, all of that made sense to me except this:

                        --- Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@...>
                        wrote:
                        *snip!*
                        > Oh... if you do need the super hero version and
                        > light material...fill
                        > the circle and down with clear strong plastic. For
                        > ability to walk, in
                        > the back tack down the plastic in the circle and two
                        > one side. Let the
                        > "Slit" be to one side of the key hole. I guess you
                        > could leave it open
                        > in the front to... but again, just chose one side to
                        > have open.

                        I don't understand what you mean about the slit and
                        putting it to one side. Can you please explain that
                        again?

                        And do you recommend the grading to eliminate seam
                        bulk or is there another reason I'm missing?

                        Thank you all so so much!
                        Amanda






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                      • Perseus85@aol.com
                        ... it keeps its shape. The part I am stuck on is how to keep the flaps (shaded in blue in reference) from falling apart/forward/ open.:: It looks like in
                        Message 11 of 23 , Oct 3, 2007
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                          ::I feel pretty confident about reinforcing the circle so
                          it keeps its shape. The part I am stuck on is how to
                          keep the "flaps" (shaded in blue in reference)
                          from falling apart/forward/ open.::

                          It looks like in the drawing, there is a gathered/ pleated section or panel in the center front of the underskirt. Could you not tack the "flaps" down to the underskirt? I think that would keep them from opening up while walking, but due to the fact the underskirt has the excess fabric in the center front, it wouldn't hinder your walking. Also, since you'd be lining the over skirt to hide the interfacing, you could tack through the lining only which would make the tacks "invisible" My two cents.

                          Pers




                          .

















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                        • Cat Devereaux
                          ... you could tack through the lining only which would make the tacks invisible And the problem with it pulling out when you walk with the skirt... is moot
                          Message 12 of 23 , Oct 3, 2007
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                            >>Also, since you'd be lining the over skirt to hide the interfacing,
                            you could tack through the lining only which would make the tacks
                            "invisible"

                            And the problem with it pulling out when you walk with the skirt... is
                            moot since it's trousers. Experiment will the outer fabric being tough
                            enough to handle it w/o tuck because it will move different. However,
                            if you do add the "tacking"... it needs to be snaps or Velcro... or
                            you're never get the pants tied.

                            -Cat-
                          • Jim
                            Hello, I have the ultimate solution with no bulk or problem.... Since you are making the hakama seperate...(what fun those are). I would suggest using
                            Message 13 of 23 , Oct 3, 2007
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                              Hello,

                              I have the ultimate solution with no bulk or problem.... Since you
                              are making the hakama seperate...(what fun those are). I would
                              suggest using "Magnets"
                              http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D41%2DN50
                              These little bitty ones sewn into the bottem of the circle and just
                              placed inside the hakama will do the trick they are very strong and I
                              would seroiusly dought that they would come loose.

                              Coztumer

                              --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Amanda_C <cuprysa@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > This is fantastic, thank you SO much, I love all the
                              > advice ^_^
                              >
                              > To clarify, there will be no super-heroing in this
                              > costume. :)
                              >
                              > Ref again: http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html
                              >
                              > Also, the "underskirt" is a pair of hakama. We made
                              > the hakama, (and intend to make the rest of the
                              > costume) out of interior dec fabric - Roclon's
                              > Renaissance white, if anyone is familiar. It's a
                              > heavier fabric, and we've had a lot of success with it
                              > in the past.
                              >
                              > The edges are getting trimmed in double wide binding,
                              > nothing too stiff.
                              >
                              > We have these fabric and trim "restrictions" because
                              > this costume (for a friend) needs to match mine (I'm
                              > just doing the patterning). To give you an idea, my
                              > costume is the white one:
                              >
                              > http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Ulquiorra1.jpg
                              >
                              > Cat, all of that made sense to me except this:
                              >
                              > --- Cat Devereaux <CatDevereaux@...>
                              > wrote:
                              > *snip!*
                              > > Oh... if you do need the super hero version and
                              > > light material...fill
                              > > the circle and down with clear strong plastic. For
                              > > ability to walk, in
                              > > the back tack down the plastic in the circle and two
                              > > one side. Let the
                              > > "Slit" be to one side of the key hole. I guess you
                              > > could leave it open
                              > > in the front to... but again, just chose one side to
                              > > have open.
                              >
                              > I don't understand what you mean about the slit and
                              > putting it to one side. Can you please explain that
                              > again?
                              >
                              > And do you recommend the grading to eliminate seam
                              > bulk or is there another reason I'm missing?
                              >
                              > Thank you all so so much!
                              > Amanda
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              ______________________________________________________________________
                              ______________
                              > Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with
                              Yahoo! FareChase.
                              > http://farechase.yahoo.com/
                              >
                            • Amanda
                              Hello everyone! For those of you that recall the question I posted about two months back regarding a reinforced keyhole cut out on a skirt, I wanted to share
                              Message 14 of 23 , Nov 29, 2007
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                                Hello everyone!

                                For those of you that recall the question I posted about two months
                                back regarding a reinforced keyhole cut out on a skirt, I wanted to
                                share our results:

                                http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html

                                I did the patterning (I'm the tall one in the middle - yes, I'm a
                                girl) and my red-headed friend Traeonna did all the actual sewing. We
                                used a heavy weight interior dec fabric and heavy weight interfacing.
                                We micro-tac'd the skirt flaps to the hakama underneath, which worked
                                great. It allowed slight movement between the layers because the tack
                                isn't as tight as a snap or stitch. I think the bias tape also helped
                                to stabilize the cut out.

                                Thank you to everyone that provided advice, especially Cat. We loved
                                the results!

                                - Amanda

                                ps. For those of you that were wondering, we're characters from the
                                anime Bleach.



                                --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, Amanda_C <cuprysa@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > Hello,
                                >
                                > I was hoping to get some advice on how to go about
                                > constructing the cut-out in this skirt:
                                >
                                > http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html
                                >
                                > My concern is the flaps coming from the bottom of the
                                > circle cut-out are just going to hang awry rather than
                                > laying nice and flat and defining the circle.
                                >
                                > I planned to use light interfacing to maintain the
                                > shape of the cut-out, but I don't know how to make the
                                > flaps work. I thought I could tack it to the
                                > underskirt, but then nothing would move correctly...
                                >
                                > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've been
                                > pondering this for a few months without epiphany :)
                                >
                                > Thank you again,
                                > Amanda
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                ____________________________________________________________________________________
                                > Check out the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo! Autos.
                                > http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
                                >
                              • prism91455
                                ... I was thinking about your costume not long ago. Thank you for posting a picture. It looks great! They all do. Pam
                                Message 15 of 23 , Nov 30, 2007
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                                  --- In F-Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Amanda" <cuprysa@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > Hello everyone!
                                  >
                                  > For those of you that recall the question I posted about two months
                                  > back regarding a reinforced keyhole cut out on a skirt, I wanted to
                                  > share our results:
                                  >
                                  > http://www.geocities.com/cuprysa/Inoue.html
                                  >

                                  I was thinking about your costume not long ago. Thank you for posting
                                  a picture. It looks great! They all do.
                                  Pam
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