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5901Re: [F-Costume] Re: Pattern Mod help

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  • Elizabeth Phillips
    Nov 19, 2012
      Absolutely get the measurements with the foundation garments the person is going to wear!
      I made a wedding dress a couple of years ago that ended up being tight at the top of the sleeve because the bust was a little higher in the bra she bought the day before the wedding.  Still looked nice, but was uncomfortable for her.
      I also helped her daughter make a strapless mermaid dress.  I fit it very snugly over her regular bra, but it was too loose over a strapless bra.  We had to take tucks on the day and she still had to keep hoisting it up.
      I will never again make a dress for someone without the proper underpinnings.

      From: Sarah Strong <sarahstrong13@...>
      To: F-Costume@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 12:27 PM
      Subject: Re: [F-Costume] Re: Pattern Mod help

      Yeah, like that. The foundation is like an almost-corset (it's not
      designed to squeeze you, just to fit really closely so your waist can
      support the dress) that is stiff enough to basically hang the dress off
      the top of it. So the bones go at least from the waist up to the top, to
      hold it up. The foundation will have its own pattern pieces, because it
      will have less ease than the dress bodice that you see, and if the dress
      has any style details like pleats or ruching, those obviously won't be
      in the foundation either.
      If the dress is really heavy like the one you are looking at making, you
      might want the foundation to extend down to the hip level, so the hips
      also help to support the dress. But the ribbon belt at the waist is also
      key, it may be as much as an inch tighter even than the foundation,
      firmly tacked to it at all the seams and here and there between, and
      closed with a big hook and eye or two.

      on looking at pattern instructions:
      I often sit down at the table by the pattern cabinets in the store,
      where the catalogs are, and take just the instruction sheets out, if I
      want to check what the pattern shapes are or something. Some things you
      can't tell from the line drawings. obviously I don't unfold the tissue,
      and I put everything back exactly as it was, so the next person won't be
      inconvenienced. I guess I'm also a regular enough customer so they know
      I'm not going to cause trouble! :D

      Not having accurate measurements is a big red light... You need those to
      start with, and they need to be taken over the bra or shaper she plans
      to wear under the finished costume. She needs to wear those for all the
      fittings too, from the first muslin to the final hem-check.
      I suggest not buying any materials before you get a sufficient deposit
      to cover them and your first few hours. Installments are good for
      everyone's cash flow...

      On 11/19/2012 9:50 AM, Hazel Daniel wrote:
      > Oh! You mean kinda like having a separate boned bodice sewn into the
      > dress, kinda like a sandwich?
      > Really? I thought you weren't allowed to remove the instructions in the
      > shop. The nearest place that sells any sort of patterns in the capital,
      > which is half hour train ride away.
      > I don't even have accurate measurements for my client, she says she'll
      > give them to me when she pays for the commission itself after christmas,
      > end of december, the new year.


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