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5889Re: [F-Costume] Pattern Mod help

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  • Sarah Strong
    Nov 18, 2012
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      You definitely want a foundation inside the bodice, just as if this was
      a strapless gown, to keep it from falling down. I don't think I'd trust
      cable ties to give it enough support either, I'd invest in real 1/4"
      steel bones. Not a big deal really, you can order them to the correct
      length. OK to use cable ties in your muslin test, so you figure out what
      the correct lengths will be.

      What the foundation does is it supports the weight of the dress on the
      wearer's waist with a ribbon belt. It can extend below the waist also,
      if you want to smooth that line, and also have the bones not just end at
      the waist, but the waist belt is key. Then the bones go up to the top
      edge, or near enough to provide the needed support to the dress.
      Especially with the cleft in the front neckline! You can enhance
      cleavage by angling the side-front bones like this \/ a bit.

      I don't know if you have a back view, but I imagine the back neckline is
      straight across at the highest line it can be, in order to help support
      those sleeves. And I bet there's still some wig tape here and there!

      I think the pattern you've chosen as a starting point is a good one. If
      I recall correctly, it has a high-waist seam which you probably want to
      eliminate (and that should be easy to do, just overlap and glue the
      pattern pieces together) And it does go up onto the shoulders a bit so
      it will help carry the weight. You might raise the back neck line a bit
      to help support the sleeves.

      Gorgeous dress, what a fun project!

      On 11/18/2012 5:33 PM, Hazel Daniel wrote:
      > Hello again!
      >
      > I've been tasked with making a gown from the BBC show Merlin,
      > specifically this one ----->
      > http://media.sfx.co.uk/files/2012/10/merlin-arthurs-bane-part-1-overnights.jpg
      >
      > I've chosen this pattern for it--->
      > http://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/vogue/2788/2788.jpg
      >
      > Basically I need help with the sleeves. I know adding the undersleeve
      > and the oversleeve will add a heap of weight onto the shoulder strap,
      > and my previous experience has told me that such things pull the dress down.
      >
      > I did look at a different pattern with a closer neckline, but it
      > required boning which is something I've never tried before. If I tried
      > it I would most likely just use the seam allowance to hold it in place.
      >
      > Guessing that it'll need reinforcing somehow, but how I don't know. I've
      > always ignored the need for interfacings in patterns (I know, slap me
      > right now)
      >
      > Also, if anyone has tips on how to stop stretch velvet fabric from
      > curling where it's been cut I would be most grateful.
      >
      >
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