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Re: [Electronics_101] Soldering iron suggestions

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  • Gustavo Villada
    Buy an Atten 858D, 40 with s&h included ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    Message 1 of 15 , Jun 28, 2013
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      Buy an Atten 858D, 40 with s&h included


      On Fri, Jun 28, 2013 at 12:56 PM, Yan Seiner <yan@...> wrote:

      > **
      >
      >
      > I got one of these boards for some prototype work I am doing. They
      > recommend a soldering iron with a tip smaller than .65mm, with a tip
      > temp of 725 degrees.
      >
      > http://www.schmartboard.com/index.asp?page=products_smttodip&id=448
      >
      > I've been using a cheap ($10) Weller which works great on .1" boards,
      > but the tip is way too big for this kind of work.
      >
      > I can't find a small tip for the Weller that I have. The local Radio
      > Shack collection of soldering irons is useless.
      >
      > What's a decent soldering iron that meets those requirements and won't
      > break the bank?
      >
      > --
      > Project Management Consulting and Training
      > http://www.ridgelineconsultingllc.com
      >
      >
      >


      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • David Bobb
      We had Wellers at work that were junk, don t remember the model number. The majority of what we had were Hakko 936. Also had two Hakko rework stations, and a
      Message 2 of 15 , Jun 28, 2013
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        We had Wellers at work that were junk, don't remember the model number. The
        majority of what we had were Hakko 936. Also had two Hakko rework stations,
        and a few Pace rework stations. The pace vacuum tubes for the suckers were
        always braking. The pace were being worked on more than used. I got two
        936s from eBay for $30 a piece and had to fix them, but now they are great,
        6 years later. I have two so I don't have to change tips in the middle of a
        project.
        On Jun 28, 2013 11:18 AM, "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

        > **
        >
        >
        > It will definitely break the bank, but if you want to really treat
        > yourself get a JBC station.
        > I'm told Metcal are also just as nice but I can't personally vouch for
        > them.
        >
        > The second tier are Ersa and Weller stations. Those will work
        > perfectly for what you need.
        > Both manufacturers sell a few different series with different tips
        > available for each, so check first if you can get the tips you want.
        > Others also count Hakko and Pace in this class.
        >
        > After that come the cheaper stations from Asia, some of them offer a
        > decent range of tips and some of them are clones of other
        > maunfacturers such as Hakko etc. and partially compatible. You can get
        > the job done with some of them, but a pleasure it ain't. They are
        > cheap.
        >
        > If you break it down to a cost per joint basis the cheaper stations
        > are most reasonable if you don't do all that much.
        > But if it isn't all about the money, if you do the soldering for fun,
        > I can guarantee you that you will have much more fun with better
        > tools.
        >
        > ST
        >
        > On Fri, Jun 28, 2013 at 5:56 PM, Yan Seiner <yan@...> wrote:
        > > I got one of these boards for some prototype work I am doing. They
        > > recommend a soldering iron with a tip smaller than .65mm, with a tip
        > > temp of 725 degrees.
        > >
        > > http://www.schmartboard.com/index.asp?page=products_smttodip&id=448
        > >
        > > I've been using a cheap ($10) Weller which works great on .1" boards,
        > > but the tip is way too big for this kind of work.
        > >
        > > I can't find a small tip for the Weller that I have. The local Radio
        > > Shack collection of soldering irons is useless.
        > >
        > > What's a decent soldering iron that meets those requirements and won't
        > > break the bank?
        > >
        > > --
        > > Project Management Consulting and Training
        > > http://www.ridgelineconsultingllc.com
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >
        >


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • KPL
        I remember there were tips with a slit (just like cut with a thin saw) in them, which were working same way. Anyway, is there any known easy method to
        Message 3 of 15 , Jul 1, 2013
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          I remember there were tips with a slit (just like cut with a thin saw) in
          them, which were working same way.
          Anyway, is there any known easy method to create/restore that (iron?)
          coating on tips, that way anyone could modify tips to try different designs.

          In terms of tips I can highly recommend a concave tip for SMD work.
          > They go under different names such as "mini hoof", "solder well",
          > "mini spoon" and the like.
          > <http://www.jbctools.com/productes/C245938/img/tam_1/imagen_01.gif>
          > Basically you are looking at a tip cut at an angle with a concave area
          > that sucks up solder.
          > You can do all sorts of interesting things with this, from drag
          > soldering SMD parts to taking excess solder off component leads. It is
          > hard to describe but this concave section drastically extends the
          > "workable" range between too much solder on the tip and too little
          > solder on the tip. The joints will turn out with the right size fillet
          > more often with less effort.
          >
          > Another great feature about the concave tip is that you can relatively
          > easily heat both sides of chip components, such as resistors or
          > capacitors. This works better than skipping from one side to the other
          > with a pencil or chisel tip.
          >
          > Generally the tips cut at an angle like this (concave section or not)
          > give you a much wider range of applications than a similar size chisel
          > tip. You can get a big contact area if you lay them on sideways, or
          > use just the point. I don't use my chisel tips at all any more.
          >
          > ST
          >
          >
          --
          KPL


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Stefan Trethan
          I ve played with the thought, but the manufacturers claim a multi-layer plating process. ST
          Message 4 of 15 , Jul 1, 2013
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            I've played with the thought, but the manufacturers claim a
            multi-layer plating process.

            ST

            On Mon, Jul 1, 2013 at 11:11 PM, KPL <kpl.listes@...> wrote:
            > I remember there were tips with a slit (just like cut with a thin saw) in
            > them, which were working same way.
            > Anyway, is there any known easy method to create/restore that (iron?)
            > coating on tips, that way anyone could modify tips to try different designs.
            >
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