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66110Re: [Electronics_101] Crimp terminals

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  • Randy
    Dec 1, 2010
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      On 12/1/2010 11:12 AM, Stefan Trethan wrote:
      >
      > Can't reasonably crimp solid wire in my opinion.
      >
      Agreed, somewhat. See below.
      >
      >
      > It's questionable if the connectors you linked to will make a
      > reasonable crimp even with stranded wire.
      >
      I don't really agree here. I DONT KNOW THIS TO BE TRUE, but, I've
      read that aircraft applications FORBID soldering lug-type
      connections. BUT,
      AFAIK, this is due to the fact that flexing *soldered* connections
      will *always* eventually fail; not very good in an aircraft. SO: if
      I had to crimp a connection, I'd solder it, too, at the end of the
      connector away from where the wire enters it, so it can't possibly
      flex at the soldered connection, or corrode or compress at the
      crimp to the detriment of the connection.

      I hope somebody with practical knowledge will chime in here...
      in the case of *copper* wires in homes, at the circuit breakers,
      where the *screw*-type connections can exert considerable force,
      AFAIK, the 12-14-16 ga solid wires generally are not known to loosen,
      but, AL wires *will*, and burn your house down. AL wires were
      used in the 70's, maybe early 80's, particularly on larger
      conductors to the electric range and water heater. Burned down
      a lot of houses.

      I admit that the torque provided by the screws is more, and with
      more surface area, than a crimp. Furthermore, a stranded wire
      can more readily comply with the shape formed by the crimp
      connector being squeezed down onto it.

      A lot depends on your application. If you're going to use the solid
      wire and crimp connector to operate a low-voltage doorbell, so what?
      You could probably made a lifetime connection by smacking the
      crimp connector with a hammer. But, if you're using solid wire,
      where it needs to flex, and it's mission-critical....bad idea. I'd tend
      to have faith in any number of other schemes, but, if you feel that
      you have to crimp, I'd crimp stranded, and solder the end away from
      where the wire enters the crimp lug. And I'd use a file to get down to
      the shiny brass before I used rosin-core solder (or solder also containing
      silver) to make the connection.

      Given corrosion protection, I might be more inclined to use wire-nuts
      with stranded wire, rather than crimp. LOTS of surface-area there.
      Somebody mentioned a particular splice here a while back, maybe
      the Western-Union splice... maybe elaborate on that? Here's a link
      on that: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_union_splice
      Apparently, the idea is to provide mechanical strength against the
      wires being tugged apart. That, and a wire-nut, and some liquid
      rubber or any of the various known-good combinations of Scotch-brand
      or 3-M brand tapes known for ruggedness, might beat any crimp.

      Other than the age-old rule of "it's what I have", is there another
      reason for using solid?

      Randy


      >
      > ST
      >
      > On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 4:43 PM, DaveC <davec2468@...
      > <mailto:davec2468%40aim.com>> wrote:
      > > The simple insulated crimp terminals available at all electronic and
      > > automotive stores:
      > >
      > > <http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42728>
      > >
      > > are these generally rated to be used with solid wire as well as
      > stranded?
      > >
      > > Thanks,
      > > Dave
      > >
      > >
      > > ------------------------------------
      > >
      > > Please trim excess when replyingYahoo! Groups Links
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
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