Re: Q2. Effect of Pressure?
- --- In Distillers@y..., George Wessel <georgelola@n...> wrote:
> >about 20
> Just a though off the top of my head.
> We're entering fall here now so our outside temp is cooler than our
> inside. So if my boiler was inside, at room temp, it would be
> to 30 degrees Cent. If my condenser was outside it would be 10degrees
> today and even colder later on.alcohol
> I do not know at what temp alcohol would boil in any mixture of
> and water. So I'll have to just pull a number out of the air, let'ssay
> alcohol will vaporize at 20 inches of vacuum at 20 degrees Cent.My very basic experiment showed me that at 20 inches of vacuum, the
alcohol will make a fog in the container at 85F (30C). That concluded
my test at that time, because the old compressor I used wouldn't pull
more vacuum than that, and I wanted to keep the temp down to a
survivable level for Yeast in order to keep the ferment going. I
wasn't after a vacuum distillation, per se. I wanted to ferment under
vacum to try to make a continous process.
> using a storage tank, apply a vacuum to the boiler, lead thesuction
> line outside to a condenser.I envisioned using the vacuum storage tank as the condensor. The
alcohol vapors should condense to liquid, and if further vacuum was
needed, you would only be pumping CO2 through your compressor. The
alcohol vapors should not have to pass through the compressor.
The outside temp is below the vapor temp
> of alcohol so the vapor would condense. The liquid alcohol willremain
> outside at a cooler temp until it is time to collect it. Thecompressor,
> storage tank and boiler are all inside where it is warm. Only thelevel
> condenser is outside. As long as the vacuum is maintaned at a
> above the vapor point of alcohol (At room temp) but below that ofwater.
> Would it not separate the two. After a few hours or days wouldyou
> not have water in your boiler and alcohol in your condenser. Maybethe
> two vapor points would be to close to stay between, I have no idea.I
> wouldn't think that some sort of vacuum control would be to hard tocome
> up with.down?
> Would the vacuum have to be increase as the alcohol level comes
I think it would, or else increase the temp slightly. I was going to
let the Yeast keep my alcohol concentration up, with the vacuum
keeping the alcohol concentration from getting too high for east
> Just a thoughtKeep those thoughts coming!
- Hello Motie
What your are trying to do is a little different than my original idea.
I wish you the best of luck. To spell out my idea, I know where I can
purchase two popane tanks, a 500 and a 1000 gallon tanks that were
damaged in a grass fire. Plus I have 2 very good 1000 gallon popane
tanks that could be used as vacuum storage that I don't use. The plan
calls for cutting off one end on each of the damaged tanks. Welding
them together to make a single 1500 gallon tanks. Cut out a access hole
on top and make a clamp on lip to cover. Grain could be augured in
through this hole as well a maled barley. Water would be pumped in to
fill the tanks and then inject steam to cook the mash. After cooking
circulate the wort through a heat exchanger to cool it down to yeast
temp and then pitch the yeast. As I said it is getting colder here
everyday so any radiator with a fan on it would work quite well. When
fermented, apply vacuum, suck off any alcohol that happens to be in
there. Drain the fermenter and then apply vacuum again this time to dry
the spent grains so they will store longer. A removeable lid on the
bottom ( same as the top) to dump out the dry spent grains. All DDG&S's
would still be in the dry spent grains. Probably give the cooker a good
cleaning and augur in more grain. Simple and easy, no fancy machinery,
low initial cost. Boilers are simple to make as well and a condenser
would also be very easy to build. Only real expense would be a vacuum
pump capable of pulling the vacuum needed. Use a good yeast and add lots
of it and I could turn this thing over once a week.
A 1500 gallon fermenter with a 14% wort would produce 210 gallon of fuel
alcohol. Us a higher alcohol yeast and get it up to 18% and I would
have 270 gallon of 100 proof fuel with no drying needed. Find some
gasoline with no water in it and I'm ready to make some gasohol.
On the question of whether or not I would need to up the vacuum or heat
as the percent alcohol in the wort comes down, consider this. A reflux
still will heat up slowly until you start removing the fore shots. As
they disminish the still will heat up until you start removing the
ethanol. Their it will stall out until the ethanol has been removed
(the more heat you apply the faster the evaporating ethanol will carry
it off) When it runs out of ethanol it will start heating up as it
starts to remove the higher alcohols. It will do this heat and stall
thing until you start getting water. Would this not be the same for the
vacuum still. If the vacuum and temp where held at the same levels would
it not just stop producing ethanol. I would think that for fuel alcohol
the foreshots and the tailings would burn just as good as the ethanol.
If anyone knows any different I would appreciate hearing what you know.
So, tell me what you think, am I completely off my rocker here
Hi George, an idea that sprang to mind, why not give it a try on a small scale, either find a small vacuum pump and reservoir etc and give it a whirl. I know that you can even purchase hand vacuum pumps for checking automotive gauges. It seems like the theory is mostly correct and there isn’t anyone on the list or the others mentioned that has tried it before. We would all be interested in the results. I know it may cost $50 ~ $100 to try it out and of course the time to do it all, but it sure beats the hell out of spending up big on those tanks.
Yours in Spirit!
From: George Wessel [mailto:georgelola@...]
Sent: Thursday, 3 October 2002 6:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Distillers] Re: Q2. Effect of Pressure?
> Increased pressure will make it harder to seperate the ethanol from theTo unsubscribe from this group send an email to firstname.lastname@example.org
> water - the azeotrope will move down to a lower % Thats why vacuum
> distillation is an advantage - it moves the azeotrope (the max % you can
> get when distilling) up from 96% to 100%
Just a though off the top of my head.
We're entering fall here now so our outside temp is cooler than our
inside. So if my boiler was inside, at room temp, it would be about 20
to 30 degrees Cent. If my condenser was outside it would be 10 degrees
today and even colder later on.
I do not know at what temp alcohol would boil in any mixture of alcohol
and water. So I'll have to just pull a number out of the air, let's say
alcohol will vaporize at 20 inches of vacuum at 20 degrees Cent. By
using a storage tank, apply a vacuum to the boiler, lead the suction
line outside to a condenser. The outside temp is below the vapor temp
of alcohol so the vapor would condense. The liquid alcohol will remain
outside at a cooler temp until it is time to collect it. The compressor,
storage tank and boiler are all inside where it is warm. Only the
condenser is outside. As long as the vacuum is maintaned at a level
above the vapor point of alcohol (At room temp) but below that of water.
Would it not separate the two. After a few hours or days would you
not have water in your boiler and alcohol in your condenser. Maybe the
two vapor points would be to close to stay between, I have no idea. I
wouldn't think that some sort of vacuum control would be to hard to come
Would the vacuum have to be increase as the alcohol level comes down?
Just a thought
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