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Fw: [Distillers] Giles help

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  • darryn
    ... From: darryn To: Giles Date: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 8:25 PM Subject: Re: [Distillers] Giles help ...
    Message 1 of 1 , Mar 7, 2000
      -----Original Message-----
      From: darryn <darryn@...>
      To: Giles <giles@...>
      Date: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 8:25 PM
      Subject: Re: [Distillers] Giles help

      >Thanks for your help Giles
      >I posted this letter earlier but I think that it may not have reached
      >you.How many mls per minute do you draw off of your still ?
      >I noticed in one of your earlier postings that you were interested in
      >scotch using malt extract and a pot still.Have you tried it
      >yet ? If yes,how did you go.If you haven't already read it you should have
      >look back at message number 37,Brian gives a quick
      >run down on how to do it.
      >Hope to talk again soon.
      >-----Original Message-----
      >From: Giles <giles@...>
      >To: darryn <darryn@...>
      >Date: Friday, May 05, 2000 4:48 AM
      >Subject: Re: [Distillers] Giles help
      >On 7 Mar 00, at 8:54, darryn wrote:
      >> Could you please let me know what changes you made
      >> to your STILLMAKER and your experiences with Mike and Johns still
      >> design.Once again,it's great to see Aussies talking on this newsgroup.
      >> Thanks in advance. Darryn.
      >Hi Darryn,
      >I was dreading doing the conversion but it didnt turn out too bad in
      >the end.
      >First i removed the condenser completely and desoldered the
      >coolng pipes which go through the column.
      >How to block up the holes i took so much trouble to make and
      >align accurately?
      >I cut two strips of sheet copper culled from an old copper tank
      >about 20 mm wider than the holes, cleaned and fluxed them and
      >the column then wrapped them round the column covering the
      >holes and trimmed them so that they butted together where they
      >Then, and this is important, i secured the copper 'bandages with
      >steel wire twisted together to clamp the copper to the column. I
      >wired both edges. Then i soldered them on and removed the wire
      >which being steel didn't stick to the solder. The having dionet this
      >with both sets of holes i tested for soundness with water.
      >Dont worry if it looks ugly because you need to insulate the column
      >which firther cuts down the tubulence in the column and saves fuel.
      >I am now convinced Its a mistake not to do this.
      >For the condenser, i dont see whhy you cant turn your old
      >condenser through 90 degrees so instead of the outlet pointing
      >down it points up.
      >I made a new condenser with a piece of 28 mm pipe which
      >enclosed a coil of about 3 m of copper brake pipe. Its a fibble but
      >can be done. It is more efficient than the sleeve type and certainly
      >uses less water.
      >All that remains is to put a teepiece between the condenser and
      >the column with a valve on it to remove the distillate. I couldnt find a
      >needle valve as suggested by Mike Nixon so i just used a 15 mm
      >If you follow all this, you should have the same layout as in the
      >book. Looks a bit like a cowboy film cactus.
      >The beauty of this design is that wen the valve is closed you have
      >total reflux something i never acheived with the other design.
      >I know the still is open to the atmosphere atr the top but you wont
      >lose any vapour out of it as long as your cooling keeps ahead of
      >the heat input. If you use the brake pipe condenser Just put your
      >hand on the outside of the condenser and see. Mine is stone cold
      >after about 2/3 of the way up.
      >Now. How long to leave the rig in total reflux. Like you i am
      >unwilling to let it go for 4 hours before i get anything. I
      >compromised and left the still cook for 1-11/2 hours before taking
      >the distillate off very slowly.
      >Teh temperature at the head should tell you when the heads are
      >ready to come off.
      >I used to have probs telling when the heads were finished before
      >but not so now. That stabilising period is excellent for separating
      >the methanol. I got about 100ml of pure stinking meths, about 20
      >ml of mixed then i was into the good stuff.
      >I think that if you keep the heat down and dont tale too much
      >ethanol off you can safely leave the still for at least 4 or 5 hours
      >before theres any danger of tails.
      >I reckon a batch of 10l of pre stripped wash at about 40-50% takes
      >me about 8 hours to process from start to finish. The stuff is good
      >and i dont really need to filter it though it does go through a
      >waterfilter once its diluted.
      >i think if you followed Nixon and Stone's advice to the letter, you
      >wouldn't need to filter at all. May be ill learn to be more patient one
      >day but i doubt it.
      >Hopre this helps. Ask more questions if you wish
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