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Re: Going E-ARC

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  • abbababbaccc
    For valve seals go PTFE or Viton. Both have been tested to work. LM-E-ARC is perfectly fine and can well be built on E/L head. To get the ABV you want requires
    Message 1 of 5 , Oct 25, 2011
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      For valve seals go PTFE or Viton. Both have been tested to work. LM-E-ARC is perfectly fine and can well be built on E/L head. To get the ABV you want requires some experimentation in order to get the correct temperature values for the thermostat. With whisky in mind you may also position the thermoprobe higher if you want to let a hint of tails through.

      Whether 0.1C accuracy thermostat is needed or not, I don't really know since I haven't use E-ARC for whisky before. Coincidentally I was planning to remove some tails from whisky made with a continuous still (failed experiment) by using E-ARC. Perhaps I should do that a bit earlier than planned and let you know how it went :)

      Slainte, Riku

      --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "morganfield1" <morganfield1@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hello Everyone,
      >
      > Just when you thought it was safe to browse the forum, I rear my ugly head once again! I would like to pose a question, primarily to Riku, but also to anyone else out there who may have experience with these products. I would like to install a thermostat and selonoid valve on my N/S head (I know, ancient equipment, but I've grown attached, owned it since it was pup), and I would like to get your oppinion on the items I have chosen.
      >
      > I primarily make whiskey these days. I like to take it off the still at 80%, and the idea of setting a thermostat at the head temp I want and letting it go it's merry way (while I watch, of course) is very appealing. I've thought about an ARC tube, of course, but I think that where ever I stop the tube, eventually the boiling point in the tube would reach the 96% range ( I haven't tried it). The idea is to set the thermostat to allow flow at 185 degrees and shut off at 187 F.
      >
      > Both these items are from Mc Master-Carr. The Thermostat is VAC line voltage STDP who's range goes upto 212F, MC# 1760K77.
      >
      > The Solenoid Valve is, again, VAC line voltage normally closed piston valve designed for use with etholyne glycol, MC# 4807T231.
      >
      > One obvious concern I have is the compatability of any rubber of plastic materials in the valve with the hooch I plan to drink that comes out of it. Also, I wonder if there is any solder on the thermostat probe, which in all likelyhood may be lead based.
      >
      > I've read Riku's book (highly reccomended reading for all, by the way) on the subject. I would appreciate any insights or suggestions on materials or operation that you have. Thanks.
      >
      > Tip one,
      > Morgan
      >
    • morganfield1
      Thanks for your reply, Riku, I appreciate your time. Real accuracy wouldn t be required as I m looking for a temperature range from 185f to 190f. Now, I adjust
      Message 2 of 5 , Oct 25, 2011
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        Thanks for your reply, Riku, I appreciate your time. Real accuracy wouldn't be required as I'm looking for a temperature range from 185f to 190f. Now, I adjust this by increasing and decreasing flow rate using the output needle valve. I know you place your thermometer about 3/4's of the way up the column, I have mine at the top of the column, but then again, I've stopped using packing (just an overgrown pot still).

        With the new thermometer I'll have to monitor the percentage and temperature with the parrot for a couple of runs, but I have high hopes (sorry, no pun intended) for a better product in the end. Once the end of the run comes near, you really have to watch the temperature or you'll ruin that portion of your product (while engrosed in the book I'm reading while I'm supposed to paying attention). Stillin' season is coming!

        Tip one,
        Morgan


        --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc" <abbababbaccc@...> wrote:
        >
        > For valve seals go PTFE or Viton. Both have been tested to work. LM-E-ARC is perfectly fine and can well be built on E/L head. To get the ABV you want requires some experimentation in order to get the correct temperature values for the thermostat. With whisky in mind you may also position the thermoprobe higher if you want to let a hint of tails through.
        >
        > Whether 0.1C accuracy thermostat is needed or not, I don't really know since I haven't use E-ARC for whisky before. Coincidentally I was planning to remove some tails from whisky made with a continuous still (failed experiment) by using E-ARC. Perhaps I should do that a bit earlier than planned and let you know how it went :)
        >
        > Slainte, Riku
        >
      • abbababbaccc
        I would suggest using some packing there. It will give you higher ABV and sharper cuts thus giving you more good whisky for your trouble. I actually went and
        Message 3 of 5 , Oct 25, 2011
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          I would suggest using some packing there. It will give you higher ABV and sharper cuts thus giving you more good whisky for your trouble.

          I actually went and tested this yesterday, it won't work with top controlled VM-E-ARC due to lack of pressure. You should be fine with LM-E-ARC though.

          Slainte, Riku

          --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "morganfield1" <morganfield1@...> wrote:
          >
          > Thanks for your reply, Riku, I appreciate your time. Real accuracy wouldn't be required as I'm looking for a temperature range from 185f to 190f. Now, I adjust this by increasing and decreasing flow rate using the output needle valve. I know you place your thermometer about 3/4's of the way up the column, I have mine at the top of the column, but then again, I've stopped using packing (just an overgrown pot still).
          >
          > With the new thermometer I'll have to monitor the percentage and temperature with the parrot for a couple of runs, but I have high hopes (sorry, no pun intended) for a better product in the end. Once the end of the run comes near, you really have to watch the temperature or you'll ruin that portion of your product (while engrosed in the book I'm reading while I'm supposed to paying attention). Stillin' season is coming!
          >
          > Tip one,
          > Morgan
          >
          >
          > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc" <abbababbaccc@> wrote:
          > >
          > > For valve seals go PTFE or Viton. Both have been tested to work. LM-E-ARC is perfectly fine and can well be built on E/L head. To get the ABV you want requires some experimentation in order to get the correct temperature values for the thermostat. With whisky in mind you may also position the thermoprobe higher if you want to let a hint of tails through.
          > >
          > > Whether 0.1C accuracy thermostat is needed or not, I don't really know since I haven't use E-ARC for whisky before. Coincidentally I was planning to remove some tails from whisky made with a continuous still (failed experiment) by using E-ARC. Perhaps I should do that a bit earlier than planned and let you know how it went :)
          > >
          > > Slainte, Riku
          > >
          >
        • morganfield1
          Yes, Packing would give me a sharper cut, the column would work smoother with the solendoid switching, and the ethenol that comes out would be purer, as
          Message 4 of 5 , Oct 26, 2011
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            Yes, Packing would give me a sharper cut, the column would work smoother with the solendoid switching, and the ethenol that comes out would be purer, as opposed to 80% of whatever is not water!

            I think if you were to try this with VM, you would have to place the probe near, but not at, the top of the packing, and you would have to use a 25mm solenoid valve at your takeoff, with another gate valve after it to control the vapor flow when the solenoid is open (there's no half way with these things), or the valve will be openning and shutting all the time. I plan to keep my needle valve after the solenoid for the same reason, to keep the flow controled, and to squeeze out the fore shots.
            Now that I get to thinkin' on it, you're still left with the pressure problem, because solenoids that big are diaphram valves, which require pressure on the input side to work (give me a couple of hours, I'll catch up with ya). Thanks again for your help.

            Tip one,
            Morgan


            --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "abbababbaccc" <abbababbaccc@...> wrote:
            >
            > I would suggest using some packing there. It will give you higher ABV and sharper cuts thus giving you more good whisky for your trouble.
            >
            > I actually went and tested this yesterday, it won't work with top controlled VM-E-ARC due to lack of pressure. You should be fine with LM-E-ARC though.
            >
            > Slainte, Riku
            >
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