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Re: ZB's proposed pot still picture

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  • tgfoitwoods
    Clearweather. First, I need to be sure we are on the same page about wash boiling temperature. If we assume I supply enough heat to boil the wash, and I m
    Message 1 of 6 , Jan 27, 2011
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      Clearweather.

      First, I need to be sure we are on the same page about wash boiling temperature. If we assume I supply enough heat to boil the wash, and I'm pretty safe in saying that all of us do, I have zero control over the temperature at which the wash boils and therefore the vapor temperature. That's determined by only 2 things, the compounds in the wash and their relative concentrations, and the ambient pressure in the still room.

      Having said that, the only thing the potstiller can control is how fast the wash boils off vapor. Although I use propane for heat, and for that reason can't really insulate the boiler, I'm going to have to make some educated guesses about how much power you'll want in an insulated electric-powered still with a 2" head, as the one I sketched for my proposed "flavor still".

      For a beer-stripping first run, I'm guessing you'd want from *about* 800-1000W continuous, and probably more for bringing the wash to a boil. For a spirit run, *about* 400-500W continuous should work fine.

      Just to let you know, the purpose of that sketch was to inform Fester on the Artisan Distiller's list, who is having some gorgeous and exotic still copper made in China, how I wanted to use his 12", 2"copper pipe to 7/8" copper pipe tapered cone in my proposed still. The design, hopefully, will give me richer spirit flavor than my ~16"x2" riser potstill does.

      Oh, and for real temperatures? I generally strip to 98 or 99C, and the same for spirit runs. That usually gives me ~50% ABV strippate, which I also spirit run distill to 98-99C, making the cuts strictly by flavor, saving the tails for junkahol or more of whatever I just distilled.

      Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller
      --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "clearweather714" <doug@...> wrote:
      >
      > Looking at you proposed pot still picture I am wondering what temperature you would suggest running with a 15 gallon pot, electric elements, on the 1st run. What would get the most flavor? What about 2nd run...
      >
      > Thanks
      >
    • clearweather714
      Thanks Bob. That is the info I needed. I have been playing with different configurations trying to maximize flavors. I will put that together and let you know.
      Message 2 of 6 , Jan 27, 2011
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        Thanks Bob. That is the info I needed. I have been playing with different configurations trying to maximize flavors. I will put that together and let you know. The only difference will be that I will cone down to 3/8" from the 2".

        --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "tgfoitwoods" <zymurgybob@...> wrote:
        >
        > Clearweather.
        >
        > First, I need to be sure we are on the same page about wash boiling
        > temperature. If we assume I supply enough heat to boil the wash, and I'm
        > pretty safe in saying that all of us do, I have zero control over the
        > temperature at which the wash boils and therefore the vapor temperature.
        > That's determined by only 2 things, the compounds in the wash and their
        > relative concentrations, and the ambient pressure in the still room.
        >
        > Having said that, the only thing the potstiller can control is how fast
        > the wash boils off vapor. Although I use propane for heat, and for that
        > reason can't really insulate the boiler, I'm going to have to make some
        > educated guesses about how much power you'll want in an insulated
        > electric-powered still with a 2" head, as the one I sketched for my
        > proposed "flavor still".
        >
        > For a beer-stripping first run, I'm guessing you'd want from *about*
        > 800-1000W continuous, and probably more for bringing the wash to a boil.
        > For a spirit run, *about* 400-500W continuous should work fine.
        >
        > Just to let you know, the purpose of that sketch was to inform Fester on
        > the Artisan Distiller's list, who is having some gorgeous and exotic
        > still copper made in China, how I wanted to use his 12", 2"copper pipe
        > to 7/8" copper pipe tapered cone in my proposed still. The design,
        > hopefully, will give me richer spirit flavor than my ~16"x2" riser
        > potstill does.
        >
        > Oh, and for real temperatures? I generally strip to 98 or 99C, and the
        > same for spirit runs. That usually gives me ~50% ABV strippate, which I
        > also spirit run distill to 98-99C, making the cuts strictly by flavor,
        > saving the tails for junkahol or more of whatever I just distilled.
        >
        > Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller
        > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "clearweather714" <doug@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Looking at you proposed pot still picture I am wondering what
        > temperature you would suggest running with a 15 gallon pot, electric
        > elements, on the 1st run. What would get the most flavor? What about 2nd
        > run...
        > >
        > > Thanks
        > >
        >
      • geoff burrows
        I have a 10 gal insulated boiler with an 850watt x 240 volt element for the run and when wash gets up to ethanol temp my 850 just distills it at a steady temp.
        Message 3 of 6 , Jan 27, 2011
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          I have a 10 gal insulated boiler with an 850watt x 240 volt element for the run and when wash gets up to ethanol temp my 850 just distills it at a steady temp.  It could be a 25 or 50gal boiler but when it reaches ethanol temp that 850 will just keep steady and keep sending the ethanol out
          HTH
          Geoff 
        • CRSound
          Yes Sir I have a 1500 watt Hot Plate and I run up to 12 on the dial To 86C and then back it off to about 10 I like to hold that temp until the water starts to
          Message 4 of 6 , Jan 28, 2011
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            Yes Sir I have a 1500 watt Hot Plate and I run up to 12 on the dial To 86C and then back it off to about 10 I like to hold that temp until the water starts to come though, every set up & mash is different.
            In fact My all Grain's don't start producing until 91 C but then they run all the way to 96 C or better, I keep every thing over 96C for RE-DO
            I am a Pot stiler Using 25 foot of 3/8 in My Bukett
            Over The Rail And Down The Hatch


            --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "geoff burrows" <jeffrey.burrows@...> wrote:
            >
            > I have a 10 gal insulated boiler with an 850watt x 240 volt element for the run and when wash gets up to ethanol temp my 850 just distills it at a steady temp.
          • Pete H
            ... Appears that Pot rs require less power punch than flux rs. With both 1.38kw and .9kw elements on until boiling (78c), a 25ltr approx., 18%abv sugar wash
            Message 5 of 6 , Jan 28, 2011
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              --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "geoff burrows" <jeffrey.burrows@...> wrote:
              >
              > I have a 10 gal insulated boiler with an 850watt x 240 volt element for the run and when wash gets up to ethanol temp my 850 just distills it at a steady temp. It could be a 25 or 50gal boiler but when it reaches ethanol temp that 850 will just keep steady and keep sending the ethanol out
              > HTH
              > Geoff
              >
              Appears that Pot'rs require less power punch than 'flux'rs.

              With both 1.38kw and .9kw elements on until boiling (78c), a 25ltr approx., 18%abv sugar wash takes 40 odd minutes to boil to that temp (78C).

              It happily retains that temp - with appropriate cooling flow - until about 4ltrs in total of fores, heads, mids, and tails have been extracted. At around 84c the temp climbs within a minute or two to where the produce is foul.

              So I now religiously shut down at around 84 and don't bother mucking around.
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