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Re: Help attaching still column to boiler

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  • rosnekcaj
    I see that my email address didn t come through completely, so I ll do it this way. Contact me at: jensor4$verizon.net only replace the $ with an @. rosnekcaj
    Message 1 of 23 , Sep 28, 2010
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      I see that my email address didn't come through completely, so I'll do it this way. Contact me at: jensor4$verizon.net only replace the $ with an @.

      rosnekcaj

      --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@...> wrote:
      >
      >
      > thursty2:
      >
      > I have the schematic of the heater control that you requested. Unfortunately I don't know how to attach it to a posting or post it in the files section as I don't see any options on the page that allow me to do that.
      > If you can email me at jensor4@..., I can attach it to an email to you.
      >
      > rosnekcaj
      >
      >
      > >
      > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > rosnekcaj,
      > > >
      > > > Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.
      > > >
      > > > The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.
      > > >
      > > > http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02
      > > >
      > > > Thanks
      > > > -------------------------------------------
      > > >
      > > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@> wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
      > > > > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
      > > > >
      > > > > rosnekcaj
      > > > >
      > > > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > rosnekaj,
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Thanks.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > -----------------------------
      > > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > >
      >
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