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Re: Help attaching still column to boiler

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  • larry_the_doc
    Thanks for the UK supplier link, I emailed them this morning. Without getting into too much economics, my point was that surely both US and UK retailers will
    Message 1 of 23 , Sep 17, 2010
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      Thanks for the UK supplier link, I emailed them this morning.

      Without getting into too much economics, my point was that surely both US and UK retailers will have similar costs, so why so much difference?
      I don't think I want anything so much that I would pay 4 times the real price for it!

      The mile hi solution is ok, your column soldered onto a fitting that screws into a flanged fitting which is joined using a clamp to the keg.

      How much more elegent would be a column soldered onto a fitting that screws into the keg.
    • PhilipWilson
      ... I made such a fitting using the threaded piece you remove from the keg when you open it, together with a copper spacer and slip joint. It worked fine
      Message 2 of 23 , Sep 17, 2010
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        --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "larry_the_doc" <doctorlawrencebrown@...> wrote:
        >
        ...
        >
        > How much more elegent would be a column soldered onto a fitting that screws into the keg.
        >

        I made such a fitting using the threaded piece you remove from the keg when you "open" it, together with a copper spacer and slip joint. It worked fine and I used it for years, but I found screwing and unscrewing the column somewhat unwieldy, so I moved on to a tri-clamp setup.
      • rosnekcaj
        I cut a hole in top of a stainless steel beer keg to match a 2 NPT female copper fitting and silver soldered the the joint. Be sure the fitting is positioned
        Message 3 of 23 , Sep 18, 2010
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          I cut a hole in top of a stainless steel beer keg to match a 2" NPT female copper fitting and silver soldered the the joint. Be sure the fitting is positioned square and plumb with the keg. I use teflon tape on the threads when screwing the 2" copper column to the keg.

          I also added a 1" NPT female stainless fitting at the bottom to which I screwed on a gate valve to allow for draining.
          I insulated the keg and my heat is furnished via a home made hot plate constructed using a 220 volt heating element from an electric range.
          I also designed and built a circuit (operating at 1 Hz) to control the duty factor of the power going to the element to provide continuous control for the desired heat without the surge one would get using the conventional thermostatic heat control assembly used on the electric range.

          Shortcomings in my setup:
          1. The surface of the keg on the bottom is somewhat curved (spherical) and one would get better heat transfer if the bottom were flat.

          2. I only can wash and rinse with hose pressure bec because I can't get my hand through the 2" inch fitting to better clean the unit, although the unit does look clean.

          However,I am very satisfied with the setup.

          rosnekcaj


          --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, joe giffen <joegiffen@...> wrote:
          >
          > Hi,
          > This firm sells tri clamps at us prices:-
          > http://www.millstainless.co.uk/
          >
          > Regards
          > Joe
          >
          > --- On Thu, 16/9/10, larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          > From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@...>
          > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler
          > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
          > Date: Thursday, 16 September, 2010, 15:26
          >
          >
          >  
          >
          >
          >
          > Yes, I have seen that, I meant a fitting that soldered onto your column and screwed straight into the keg. It wouldn't need a clamp, just a gasket.
          > I considered a tri clamp and a ferrule for my column, but they are expensive locally, and P&P is a lot from USA to UK.
          > Just a thought, does anyone know why a $7 clamp sells for $31 in the UK?
          >
          > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Dave <bbmdave@> wrote:
          > >
          > > Have a look
          > > here http://www.milehidistilling.com/Moonshine_still_accessories_s/5.htm
          > >
          > > Or Tiny URL http://tinyurl.com/2c6pvd5 Yahoo screws up links regularly
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > ________________________________
          > > From: larry_the_doc <doctorlawrencebrown@>
          > > To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
          > > Sent: Thu, September 16, 2010 6:37:55 AM
          > > Subject: [Distillers] Re: Help attaching still column to boiler
          > >
          > >
          > > I realise this is an old thread, but I was looking at a similar situation.
          > > I am surprised that you cannot buy a fitting that connects your column to the
          > > internal thread of a keg (whatever that is!)or can you?
          > >
          >
        • thursty2
          rosnekaj, Are you able to provide details - in layman s terms - of the circuit you designed? I m interested in building such a controller. I am hoping to
          Message 4 of 23 , Sep 18, 2010
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            rosnekaj,

            Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.

            I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.

            Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.

            This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.

            Thanks.

            -----------------------------

            --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@...> wrote:
            >
            > I cut a hole in top of a stainless steel beer keg to match a 2" NPT female copper fitting and silver soldered the the joint. Be sure the fitting is positioned square and plumb with the keg. I use teflon tape on the threads when screwing the 2" copper column to the keg.
            >
            > I also added a 1" NPT female stainless fitting at the bottom to which I screwed on a gate valve to allow for draining.
            > I insulated the keg and my heat is furnished via a home made hot plate constructed using a 220 volt heating element from an electric range.
            > I also designed and built a circuit (operating at 1 Hz) to control the duty factor of the power going to the element to provide continuous control for the desired heat without the surge one would get using the conventional thermostatic heat control assembly used on the electric range.
            >
            > Shortcomings in my setup:
            > 1. The surface of the keg on the bottom is somewhat curved (spherical) and one would get better heat transfer if the bottom were flat.
            >
            > 2. I only can wash and rinse with hose pressure bec because I can't get my hand through the 2" inch fitting to better clean the unit, although the unit does look clean.
            >
            > However,I am very satisfied with the setup.
            >
            > rosnekcaj
          • rosnekcaj
            Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely. I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the
            Message 5 of 23 , Sep 20, 2010
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              Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
              I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.

              rosnekcaj

              --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@...> wrote:
              >
              > rosnekaj,
              >
              > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
              >
              > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
              >
              > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
              >
              > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
              >
              > Thanks.
              >
              > -----------------------------
              >
            • Harry
              ... There are some useful schematics in the Files section, left of screen on our group site (read the messages online in a browser & you ll see this)...
              Message 6 of 23 , Sep 20, 2010
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                > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                > >
                > > rosnekaj,
                > >
                > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                > >


                There are some useful schematics in the Files section, left of screen on our group site (read the messages online in a browser & you'll see this)...
                http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/files/Triac-circuits

                http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/files/Still%20Controller/

                Slainte!
                regards Harry
              • thursty2
                rosnekcaj, Harry has provided links to scheme s which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I m sure I could accomplish what would
                Message 7 of 23 , Sep 20, 2010
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                  rosnekcaj,

                  Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.

                  The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.

                  http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02

                  Thanks
                  -------------------------------------------

                  --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                  > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
                  >
                  > rosnekcaj
                  >
                  > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > rosnekaj,
                  > >
                  > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                  > >
                  > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                  > >
                  > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                  > >
                  > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                  > >
                  > > Thanks.
                  > >
                  > > -----------------------------
                  > >
                  >
                • rosnekcaj
                  thurst2 I haven t forgotten you. Bear with me and I ll get the schematics for you. Probly sometime next week. rosnekcaj
                  Message 8 of 23 , Sep 24, 2010
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                    thurst2
                    I haven't forgotten you. Bear with me and I'll get the schematics for you. Probly sometime next week.
                    rosnekcaj

                    --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > rosnekcaj,
                    >
                    > Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.
                    >
                    > The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.
                    >
                    > http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02
                    >
                    > Thanks
                    > -------------------------------------------
                    >
                    > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                    > > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
                    > >
                    > > rosnekcaj
                    > >
                    > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                    > > >
                    > > > rosnekaj,
                    > > >
                    > > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                    > > >
                    > > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                    > > >
                    > > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                    > > >
                    > > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                    > > >
                    > > > Thanks.
                    > > >
                    > > > -----------------------------
                    > > >
                    > >
                    >
                  • rosnekcaj
                    thursty2: I have the schematic of the heater control that you requested. Unfortunately I don t know how to attach it to a posting or post it in the files
                    Message 9 of 23 , Sep 27, 2010
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                      thursty2:

                      I have the schematic of the heater control that you requested. Unfortunately I don't know how to attach it to a posting or post it in the files section as I don't see any options on the page that allow me to do that.
                      If you can email me at jensor4@..., I can attach it to an email to you.

                      rosnekcaj


                      >
                      > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                      > >
                      > > rosnekcaj,
                      > >
                      > > Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.
                      > >
                      > > The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.
                      > >
                      > > http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02
                      > >
                      > > Thanks
                      > > -------------------------------------------
                      > >
                      > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@> wrote:
                      > > >
                      > > > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                      > > > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
                      > > >
                      > > > rosnekcaj
                      > > >
                      > > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                      > > > >
                      > > > > rosnekaj,
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Thanks.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > -----------------------------
                      > > > >
                      > > >
                      > >
                      >
                    • rosnekcaj
                      I see that my email address didn t come through completely, so I ll do it this way. Contact me at: jensor4$verizon.net only replace the $ with an @. rosnekcaj
                      Message 10 of 23 , Sep 28, 2010
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                        I see that my email address didn't come through completely, so I'll do it this way. Contact me at: jensor4$verizon.net only replace the $ with an @.

                        rosnekcaj

                        --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@...> wrote:
                        >
                        >
                        > thursty2:
                        >
                        > I have the schematic of the heater control that you requested. Unfortunately I don't know how to attach it to a posting or post it in the files section as I don't see any options on the page that allow me to do that.
                        > If you can email me at jensor4@..., I can attach it to an email to you.
                        >
                        > rosnekcaj
                        >
                        >
                        > >
                        > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                        > > >
                        > > > rosnekcaj,
                        > > >
                        > > > Harry has provided links to scheme's which make it a little easier, but if you could provide your schematic, I'm sure I could accomplish what would otherwise be impossible for me.
                        > > >
                        > > > The following appears to be an extremely valuable link, and I wonder if you might view the astable circuits and recommend one.
                        > > >
                        > > > http://www.doctronics.co.uk/555.htm#pb_02
                        > > >
                        > > > Thanks
                        > > > -------------------------------------------
                        > > >
                        > > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "rosnekcaj" <jensor4@> wrote:
                        > > > >
                        > > > > Yes, using a controller such as I described will enable you to use a 2.4 Kw heating element and control it precisely.
                        > > > > I used a 555 timer (Google it) in the astable mode with a potentiometer in place of the timing resistors enabling adjustment from almost 0% to 100% duty factor running at 1 HZ. Its output drives a solid state relay (Crydom H12D4850) to switch the 230V power to the element on and off. A 12 volt DC wall wart (power supply) connected across 115 volt supplies operating power to the circuit.
                        > > > >
                        > > > > rosnekcaj
                        > > > >
                        > > > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@> wrote:
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > rosnekaj,
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > Are you able to provide details - in layman's terms - of the circuit you designed? I'm interested in building such a controller.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > I am hoping to convert a 50ltr ss keg into a boiler. My approach will be to cut a 150mm round hole in the top. The disk with the original keg fitting will have a clampable lip added to it for sealing, and the column will be made so it clamps to the original keg fitting. The removable lid will allow me to fit an electrical element, and also make cleaning the keg easier.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > Having a controller such as yours will enable me to fit just one element of say 2.4kw, which will rapidly bring the wash to boiling point. At that time it can then be controlled to continue the boil at say .6 to .9kw.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > This immediately overcomes many problems for a novice like me, whose washes consistently are not fully fermented out and still retain some sugars. Boiling these washed off at 2.4kw inevitably leads to "burnt" product with the associated smells and tastes.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > Thanks.
                        > > > > >
                        > > > > > -----------------------------
                        > > > > >
                        > > > >
                        > > >
                        > >
                        >
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