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Re: yeast ranching question

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  • jamesonbeam1
    Sidenote: Some simple answers, to your other questions are in-line below. JB. ... was thinking ... something ... Your main problem is going to be that you
    Message 1 of 5 , Oct 9, 2009

      Sidenote:

      Some simple answers, to your other questions are in-line below.

      JB.


      --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "*" <goodneighbor69@...> wrote:
      >
      > i posted this in New Distillers but thought maybe the old pros might
      > be better suited to answer.
      >
      > i need to stretch a envelope of whiskey yeast. i'll tell you what i was thinking
      > , and maybe you can let me know some quantities or if im going to do something
      > wrong.

      Your main problem is going to be that you cannot "ranch" the amylase enzymes in your whiskey yeast....  You will probably have to buy some more BA and GA enzymes at Mile High distillers.  They will become diluted the more you "ranch" your yeast.
      >
      > was thinking a small sugar wash (sg ?)about 1 gal,1-2 tbls of the yeast, with
      > some nutrients ? vitamins? epsom salt? or just go to LHBS for yeast nutrients ,

      Yeast nutrients from your LHBS will work fine.


      > and an
      > air stone. let the air stone run the entire time. few days ? or untill
      > i had enough to pitch in a 6 gal mash .

      Make a starter per MB Raines, (try about a gallon per her instructions) you need to run the air stone to keep oxygen flowing till fermentation stops so no ethanol (as Harry stated in New Distillers)  is produced...  You can then keep that as your "master starter" in the refrige for a year or so.

       not sure how much that would have to be

      See above.

      > . is fresh the same as dry?

      Dried yeast is fresh yeast that has been dehydrated (again read MB Raines on how to dehydrate yeast) and can last a year or more if kept in the refridg or freezer.
      >
      > will this work and or will i change the caricature of the yeast?

      Yes it will work, and will not change the "caricature" of the yeast.  Yeast trub or "barm" (lees in wine making)may be re-fermented over 10 to 12 times (I have done it over 20 times with no problems or changing the yeast "caricature").  This is the basis for making sour mashes for corn whiskey (Bourbon)  and using "Dunder" for making rums....
      >
      > thank you in advance
      >

      YVW.

      Vino es Veritas,

      Jim aka Waldo.

    • *
      (I have done it over 20 times with no problems or changing the yeast caricature ). Jim, could you elaborate please. do you ferment on the grain? do you
      Message 2 of 5 , Oct 10, 2009
        (I have done it over 20 times with no problems or changing the yeast "caricature").
        Jim,
        could you elaborate please. do you ferment on the grain? do you ferment full term or stop short. if you stop early how do you stop fermentation and let yeast settle out? and if you ferment on the grain do you sparge to harvest yeast.


        thanx again
      • jamesonbeam1
        Well Good, When doing sour mashing for corn whiskey, I usually use corn meal - not cracked corn, but its the same principle. After the fermentation clears and
        Message 3 of 5 , Oct 10, 2009
          Well Good,

          When doing sour mashing for corn whiskey, I usually use corn meal - not
          cracked corn, but its the same principle. After the fermentation clears
          and the yeast settles (I use EC-1118 which flocculates very well to the
          bottom), you can strain off (sparge) the liquid off from this barm/trub
          at the bottom and re-use that.

          Personally, I usually just take 1/2 out after each fermentation and use
          the rest to restart the fermentation. I also take some of this and boil
          it up for the nutrients and yeast hulls in it.

          People have suggested you only do this 10 to 12 times before changing to
          new yeast and barm, but have done it over 20 times with no difference in
          flavors.

          Making rum and using the backset (dunder) and barm, is also the same
          concept. Again, i will take out about 1/2 of it and use the rest to
          restart the fermentation.

          Vino es Veritas,

          Jim aka Waldo.


          --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "*" <goodneighbor69@...> wrote:
          >
          > (I have done it over 20 times with no problems or changing the yeast
          "caricature").
          > Jim,
          > could you elaborate please. do you ferment on the grain? do you
          ferment full term or stop short. if you stop early how do you stop
          fermentation and let yeast settle out? and if you ferment on the grain
          do you sparge to harvest yeast.
          >
          >
          > thanx again
          >
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